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James H

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Everything posted by James H

  1. STAGE 80: COMPONENTS FOR THE FOREARM AND LEFT HAND Work on the left forearm begins by CA'ing the tendon springs into position on the forearm plate... ...which is then screwed to the forearm shaft and the joint added to the top. Connectors are supplied to fit the previous finger onto the hand. Until pack 9, that's it!
  2. STAGE 79: PARTS LEFT SECOND (MIDDLE) FINGER AND ARM Another finger to build and fit to the hand! One tip...I find it's easier to slide the neoprene tube into the joint from behind, and THEN push the main metal pin through it to expand the neoprene whilst in situ. CA is used to glue a plastic cap to the opposite side. The elbow joint is now completed and fitted to the left upper arm, completing that assembly.
  3. STAGE 78: COMPONENTS FOR LEFT HAND AND ARM JOINT Our finger is now attached to the left hand section. CA is used to glue the ratchet discs into the shoulder joint. This is then CA'd to the left upper arm. A piston is now fitted to the elbow joint.
  4. STAGE 77: BUILD THE FIRST FINGER OF THE LEFT HAND Not too much to do here. The left arm joint is saved over for a subsequent stage, but another finger is assembled as per the ones for the right hand side hand. These joints pivot nicely and are tight as they may need to hold a plasma rifle when the model is complete.
  5. STAGE 76: FURTHER COMPONENTS FOR THE LEFT UPPER ARM Again, another liner is pushed into the socket on this left arm part, and then the shoulder joint is added. Biceps and triceps now laid in place over the assembly. Both left upper arm parts re now sandwiched together, and screws used to secure the muscles. I found I needed to use a rubber tip hammer to tap the main arm parts together at the shoulder joint, but they did fit nicely after that.
  6. STAGE 75: FURTHER PARTS FOR THE LEFT UPPER ARM This is probably the easiest and shortest stage of this pack, taking a whole 10 seconds to build! The socket liner is simply pushed into the left upper arm!
  7. STAGE 74: TRICEP MUSCLE OF THE LEFT ARM ...and now the tricep, built exactly the same as the previous bicep.
  8. STAGE 73: FIT COMPONENTS FOR THE LEFT SHOULDER AND ARM First, the shoulder joint is assembled. The the piston shafts are built. These shouldn't be tightened too much as they'll not fit into the piston bodies, otherwise.
  9. STAGE 72: THE FIRST PARTS FOR THE LEFT ARM We are onto the bicep for the left upper arm. This is simply a piston body which connects to the shoulder joint and will eventually terminate at the elbow.
  10. PACK 8 STAGE 71: ASSEMBLING FOOT PARTS AND ATTACHING THEM TO THE RIGHT LEG This pack is a continuation of the right foot, and also sees it complete. It really is very important that the photos are studied and the orientation and numbers of the parts. There are 2 rods per toe and some of these have a slight kink in them to accommodate the lie of the toes as they sit on the foot. These are assembled as before, and also using some thread lock on the grub screws. Care is also needed in orientation in fixing these to the feet too.
  11. Nope, none whatsoever! Just add some to a small brush and brush the area you want to add PE to. Properly wet the area, then add the PE. Use a dry brush to wick away any excess and leave to dry. Seal with another brushing of Klear/future.
  12. I used Johnsons Klear (Future) floor polish. Just brush some in there and plop the PE into position. Wick away any excess and leave to dry for 30 mins. I then brushed some extra over the top. No glue and it's settled solidly into place with no glue marks. As for using Tamiya tape....don't waste your money. Buy Tesa Tape. Same stuff and a fraction of the price for the quantity. https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/masking-tapes/9139532/ Same grade. Same tack. Exactly the same, I promise.
  13. Wishing you all the best for 2021 too, and for everyone here. Let's hope that in the real world, it's a darn sight better than 2020! 😆
  14. That really does look very pretty. Looking forward to seeing the finished product.
  15. No worries! Your build deserves to have its own log so it can be referenced. If you've any more photos, please feel free to add to your log.
  16. Split from another build log to create one for @BigDan
  17. Lady Nelson is a perfect model to build when starting out. Only one mast and limited ratlines to tie.
  18. Wait until you’ve done 9 or 10 in a row. They’re like falling off a log by then 😆
  19. That looks so exacting. Loving the photos too. Very clear to follow.
  20. You're always best glossing before decals, and if there's lots of moulded details on the deck, consider using a decal setting solution too. Once your decals are down, gloss over them before any weathering and a flat coat.
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