James H

I think here is fine. Many people will have seen it here and can continue following. 

No, we have nothing that can do that, or access via third-party plugins. Browsers are generally equipped to export as either a web page or PDF, and also to print whole pages you are on. It make take time over a large build log, but there's nothing we can do about that. We keep several backups of MSW at all times, and backups are made 4 times per week, into several different locations. If you feel you need to back up your build log, for whatever reason, you'll have to do this manually.

The forum software won't cater to that, but it's easy enough through your browser.
 
Ok, I'm using Safari on Mac here, but this should be available on most, if not all browsers. Just export each page as a PDF and save to your computer.
 

good morning every one
 
build log day 70-2 (arrived 10 weeks ago and had two days off)
well with the minimum of work being required  i went to plan B and and primed the hull, with a hairy stick and Vallejo grey primer 
using the 2nd planking i was able to line the top wale plank in place, with the 3 following underneath it, this has also been sanded and primed, progress continues on the stbd side
 

 
 

Ok, I have added a tool which will take you straight back to the top of the page which will help if you had to scroll a long way.
 
When you start to roll down a page, you will now see a black 'Up Arrow' in the bottom right of the screen. Press that and you'll be taken to the top again.
 

The first thing that needs to be done in preparation for planking is to paint the port openings.  It is much easier to do so now and those familiar with all of my Syren projects will recognize this step.   I am using the same Crimson Acrylic red for this model that I use for all of them.   
 
One note however,  rather than just start painting,   this model has many laser cut sweep ports.   The insides of the sweep ports have laser char on them.   You really cant successfully just paint over that.   The red wont cover it and will appear too dark.  You dont want to sand it off.  That would be bad.  It would change the precision shape of those port openings.  
 
Instead of sanding,  I painted the insides of the sweep ports with a very light tan first.   This will cover the char without compromising the shape of the sweep ports.   I mixed Titanium White with some brown and yellow Ochre.  Once that paint dried I switched to the Crimson.
 
One additional note....The quarter badge opening and window area was painted tan and will NOT be painted red.   This will be left tan as the great cabin will remain unpainted.
 
Once the painting was complete I taped the two templates into position on both sides of the model.
 

This is a VERY important step.   Just like when using a batten,  you must view the hull at all angles.  Ensure that the template is even on both sides of the hull.   The bottom edge of the templates represent the top edge of the wales.   You will be carefully tracing along the bottom edge of each template to mark the location for the first planking strake to be placed on the hull.
 
Make sure the run is good and at equal height at the bow and stern both port and starboard.
 

I forgot to mention that you should cut out all of the sweep ports and gunports from the template before taping it on the hull.  In addition,  cut out the fixed blocks on the templates too.   You will be tracing and marking the exact locations for the fixed blocks and the sweep port covers as well as the bottom edge of the templates.
 
We will be adding the sweep port covers to the hull soon so we can plank around them.  The same is true for the fixed block shells.  
 
Use a hard lead pencil so it keeps a sharp point longer.  Yes the lead will leave a lighter line but it will be more precise. Use a 4H or even a 6H pencil for marking the hull.
 
When you are done tracing these elements and the bottom edge of the templates, remove the them carefully.  We will be using them again many times.  Cut away any tape that hangs over the edges of the template.  Dont try and remove it...the template will tear.   Then store the templates safely for later use.
 
Here is what the hull looks like after removing the templates.
 

You can hopefully see my reference line that shows the top edge of the wales.  But its hard to see the sweep port lines in the photo.  Thats OK.  Just know that they are there.  You can see the locations of the fixed blocks.
 
We will be adding the first strake which represents the first layer for the top of the wales.   This is probably the most crucial of planking steps.  So take you time with it.  If the run and fit for this first plank is wrong then all of your planking will be wrong.   It will be hard to recover from that.
 
The strips are 7/32" x 3/64" Yellow cedar.   I have a whole bunch of them ready to go.  All have been matched for color.  All three strakes for the wales are 7/32" wide.  Try really hard to align the top of the strip with your reference line on the hull.   Make sure you match the placement port and starboard.
 
I wont rehash how to plank and how to bend the strips.   I have done that so many times.   Just refer to the tutorials and many logs on this site.  Or download the respective chapters for the Cheerful or the Winchelsea.   I am using a travel iron and bending and twisting as usual.  The first strake or the upper wales have been completed.  At least the first layer.  I prefer to use two layers.  You could however just use a thicker strip and complete the upper and lower strakes in one layer instead.  Its up to you.   But I personally prefer two layers because I think I can do a much better and cleaner job with the painting and placement.
 
With this upper wale in place...now its time to add two more strakes of the same width and thickness below this one.   It sounds easy enough,  but remember to get a good tight fit against the strakes already on the hull.  I am also using a #2 pencil to shade one edge of each strake to simulate the caulking.   Although on the upper and lower wales its not important.  Its only the first layer.  I would however simulate the caulking on the middle layer of the wales because it is only one layer thick.  I a referring to the butt joints only.
 
One last very important note:   When gluing these three strakes for the wales onto the hull, make sure you glue the strips to each and every frame.   Its the planking that will hold the hull together when we remove the top jigs.   So the frames need to be really secure to the planking.   Place a drop of glue  (your choice of PVA or CA) to each and every frame as you proceed.  When we complete two or three strakes above the wales later,  thats when we will remove the top jigs and establish the sheer properly.  So thats coming up soon.   If the planks arent secured to the frames it might be a disaster in the making.  But maybe not.  I am just a nervous Nelly.

 
 

I did promise a small update, so I can. now show the hull completed.
 
There are a few things on the deck that need a little rope. The main one is the rudder tiller which is wired up to the ship's wheel via a simple block system. Also needing rope are the ladder hatch opening and the ship's boat. 


 
 
 
The chainplates/strops on Grecian are single piece PE parts. These are prised apart to pop the deadeye into place before being closed up again with tweezers.

 
 
 
There are only 14 deadeyes/shrouds on Grecian, making it a perfectly simple intro to ratlines. This will be a breeze to rig.


 
 
 
Rudder chain installed...

 
 
 
And now the completed hull photos. Next stage is masting.

And finally, for today.
 
Stanchions on ready for cord, which I'll add when I do the next update.
 

 
 
 
Grecian comes with a LOT of choices for armament. Carronades feature heavily and paint is scraped away from where these are to be fitted. There is a small shelf on the exterior for the carronades, hence the paint removed.


 
 
 
Next two 6 pdrs and two 4 pdrs are added.

 
 
 
Here is the supplied 3D boat, with timber parts, nicely painted by my friend Mark who does my figureheads and cabin furniture.
 
 
 




 
 
 
And here is what Grecian now looks like!



 
 
 
It's chainplates etc. for next update, and maybe the bowsprit too.
 
Soon..
 

I'll do this update in 3 or 4 parts due to the number of photos showing the deck and bulwark fittings being added.
 
Here we go!
 
Most of these are self-explanatory, but let's take a look. First, as I've processed the pics, I've realised I didn't resize the coppering pics. I'll add those at the end (out of sequence).
 
In this photo, the rudder tiller has been added and the small deck section, plus the bread hatch.
 

 
 
 
The ironwork is now fitted. This is one of the most time-consuming parts of fitting out. A nicer smattering of these around both the bulwarks and deck.

 
 
 
And now the shot garlands.


 
 
 
Followed by cleats.

 
 
 
Al those belaying racks need pins. These are PE, painted black and slotted into the racks. A little brushed varnish secures them.

 
 
 
The garlands are now furnished with 1.5mm balls, again, glued into place with a brush of varnish.

 
 
 
The catheads are a multipart assembly that allows for engravings on all faces. Very simple to build and these just slot though the bulwark holes with minimum effort.

 
 
The pre-made fittings can now be added, starting with the skylight.

 
 
 
The the grates/coamings, ladder etc.



 
 
 
Capstan now present....



 
 
More in a moment....

...Continued.
 
All gun ports are now cleaned up and the tops of the bulwarks sanded. The hole for the bowsprit entry is also cleaned up with the bulkheads being cut back to the same position. Also note the single-piece Wales have been installed.
 

 
 
Before the stern can be fitted, the tail end is tickled with a rough stick.



 
 
 
And the MDF structures at the stern can now be sheathed in pear, making them look far prettier.


 
 
The rudder tiller exit fascia is now built and fitted.

 
 
 
...and Grecian now looks like this. Gorgeous lines.

Weekend update time.
 
I've done a bit of jumping around on Grecian over the last week as the engraved deck was modified and I've been waiting on some areas of the hull to dry. The bowsprit is now built, but I'll leave that to the next update. Some mast work has also been done. For the moment though, I'll show you where I am with the hull.
 
On my last update, the hull was at this stage. I now had to add the bulwarks. These will form the inner 1mm core of the final bulwark. As with the other kits, these are engraved on the inner face so that you can align the lower engraved line to the deck level. No soaking is needed with these whatsoever. I did score and pin towards the rear where the bulkheads have a tighter curve, but the stuff is all very easy and I'll show what I did in detail for kit.
 

 

 
 
These parts are pinned and clamped until dry, but with no glue between the bulwark and the bulkhead ear above deck level.

 
 
Here is that same bulwark from the rear, with the scored and pinned area evident on the lower bulwark.

 
 
Unusually for a kit like this, we don't yet do the planking. This is because we need to bolster those gunport arches. The outer bulwark is first dry fitted to the core bulwark and a pencil used to draw along the underside and the position where the channels will eventually slot in. This is simply so I know where to glue, and importantly, NOT to glue. I want to keep those channel slots free from glue clogging them up.


 
 
 
Each outer bulwark is now glued in place. It's important to make sure they are adhered from top to bottom, but also vital that the tops of the gunport arches are properly glued. You can never have too many clamps! To ensure no error creeps in with the port positions between layers, the midship ports were first aligned and I words towards the stern and clamped, and then towards the bow and also clamped. If you get the midship ports properly aligned, you should find no error along the positioning of the others. My tip is simply a precaution for those who may tend to misplace a part slightly.


 
 
Again, we are so used to removing the bulkhead ears after planking, but we are doing this early, to further strength those gunport arches. First of all, the ears are twisted off with some pliers...

 
 
 
...and then sanded flush with the deck.

 
 
 
The laser-engraved lime deck is now ready to be fitted. The easiest way to do this is to mostly NOT glue it! On the prototype, the deck was simply glued down the centre and then the engraved inner bulwarks clamped into place on either side to hold it all down until the glue line set. Once dry, the inner bulwarks can be removed, allowing the deck to spring back up along the edges...but that's just fine.



 
 
 
Those same inner bulwarks are now carefully glued into place, one at a time, making sure the port all line up properly and the tops of the bulwarks are at the same height. The deck edges will now be held firmly down.

 
 
 
You'll note that the outer bulwark doesn't extend anywhere as deep as the mid core. This is to allow you to add first planking without damaging the outer engraved bulwark.

 
 
 
That's all for now. Next update will show this all planked.
 

....more. As I've done quite a lot, I've very much abridged the number of photos for each stage.
 
Binnacle. This is smaller than those I've built for British vessels but identical in construction. The chimney is turned brass as per Indy, Sphinx etc. 



 
 
A single ladder is now built for the deck hatch opening. 

 
 
Grecian will come with more armament than you'll actually need. This means that you will be able to choose the gun combination that you prefer, and we will supply options for you. These photos show the carronades and two sizes of cannon. All this before I actually plank the hull!









 
 
Until next time.

I doubt that the masts would be perpendicular to the deck. Sure there should be an astern rake, even if only a few degrees.

What a wonderful resource. Thanks very much, Rob. 

Thanks for that. I'll keep this link here, but please can this topic be limited to the software that Rob has posted here.
 
That will keep this topic straightforward. 

Pinned!
 
(...and thanks for all your work, Rob)

That about nails it.
 
In this instance though, we use Sucuri as a proxy, so all connections to MSW are going through that proxy, and it was Sucuri, not our own software, which flagged up the threat. Thankfully, these are very, very few, so it's never a problem for us to whitelist each IP. 

Ok, fixed.

Fixed
 
If anyone gets this, just PM me with the 'Your IP' number.
Thanks

Ok, fixed.

Hi all,
 
If you get that message when you try to make a post, please simply PM me with the number that follows where it says 'Your IP'.
 
That will be a block of four numbers with a '.' between them.
 
Thanks
 

The gallery is only for completed models anyway, so a model 'underway', wouldn't be a suitable addition. 

The deck looks real nice. I do like that material. Nice clean job too.

The deck looks real nice. I do like that material. Nice clean job too.

Yes, those beams will just be discarded later. They do a nice job of keeping the bulwarks at the correct width during planking.