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About jpalmer1970
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Penrith, NSW
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jpalmer1970 reacted to a post in a topic: HM Cutter Alert by Thukydides - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - first build
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jpalmer1970 reacted to a post in a topic: Endeavour by Bill97 - OcCre - 1/54
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jpalmer1970 reacted to a post in a topic: Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF
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jpalmer1970 reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Indefatigable 1794 by Blue Ensign - Vanguard Models - 1:64 scale.
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Great work for your first wooden kit Richie. It seems AL have revamped this kit which is good - and hopefully the instructions have been greatly enhanced from the old version. A single layer planked open boat is a challenge for any new builder as you can't hide any planking mistakes under a second layer! Well done with you work so far.
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Glen McGuire reacted to a post in a topic: HM Cutter Alert by Thukydides - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - first build
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AON reacted to a post in a topic: HM Cutter Alert by Thukydides - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - first build
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Excellent work. You have made lots of great additions to bring this build to a very high level.
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Canute reacted to a post in a topic: Artesania Latina 1/72 HMS Victory Cross section Trafalgar 1805.
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jpalmer1970 started following Pen Duick - Artesania Latina 1:28 , HMS Endeavour's Longboat -Artesania Latina 1/50 , HM Armed Cutter Alert - Vanguard Models and 1 other
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I plan to have a build log for it, where I will hopefully reap the benefit of advice and guidance from more experienced scratch builders. It may be a couple of months before I am up and running with it but please do look in 👍
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Next on the list is a very quick build of a Napoleonic French field gun. After that I will be returning to ship building and I'm going to try my hand at a scratch build of the Hayling Hoy. I must admit to feeling somewhat out of my depth with this as it will be a completely new level or woodwork for me. I have bought the required tools I need such as a thicknesser and scroll saw but have no idea how to use them properly 😀 I foresee that there will be a lot of sawdust and do overs. The Hayling Hoy will be a very long term project for me which works well because I don't really have a lot of space to display more models!
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Thank you for all the kind words. I realised this morning that I had actually omitted to glue on the little round ball that sits on top of the ensign staff - so the case will have to come off again tonight so that I can put that in place! 🙄 At least it gives me another opportunity to get wipe the case down again afterwards to remove the fingerprints! 😃
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Yesterday I was able to undertake the routing required to shape the base board. My father-in-law kindly assisted with this (it's his router!) and we carefully marked out the external dimensions of the display case on the base board. As the acrylic is 6mm thick I used a 7mm router bit to make a 6mm deep channel in the base board into which the case could slot. The initial attempt was close but not quite right and so I had to widen the channel by 1mm towards the outside of the board on all sides in order for the case to slot into place nicely. To be honest we were both rather surprised we had managed it without too many problems! The corners of the slot were cleaned up with some small chisels and then the top of the board was given a good sanding. To make the base board a little more pleasing to look at I also chamfered a 45 degree angle around the top edge. I also attached the six oak feet that I had previously made, and added some self adhesive felt to the bottom of these to stop the base scratching the table on which it is placed. The next job was to drill the holes into which the brass rods could slot to hold the model in place in the board. It seems I hadn't quite installed the brass rods exactly parallel to the waterline when I put them in the hull off the model many months ago and so the holes in the baseboard needed to be slightly offset from vertical. I wondered about adding a coat of wop to the board and so tried a sample area underneath. The wop made quite a difference to the colour of the oak giving it a rather yellow hue which i didn't actually like, so I decided to leave the natural wood as is. I also cut down the wooden pedestals I had made so that there was around a 15mm gap between the keel and the base board once the model was mounted on the pedestals. The pedestals simply slipped over the brass rods and some double sided tape held them fast on the base board. The brass rods extend about 18mm into the base board and hold the model in place very securely. I also put some double sided tape on the back of the name plaque and placed that on the base board and took a few pictures of the model before adding the display case. It was then a question of taking off all of the protective film from the case and doing my best to get rid of any finger marks and dust. I'm not sure how the protective film is attached to the acrylic but it once it has been removed it gives the case a lot of electrostatic attraction to dust, hairs and all other sorts of little bits of debris which makes getting it clean and mark free quite a task! I felt like I was just moving the dust around but eventually it came out looking good. I carefully lowered the case over the model and into the slot on the baseboard and wiped off all of the fingerprints from the case. I then started to take pictures of the completed model for the gallery and it was at that point I realised that I had omitted to place the sprit and the yard on the deck, and so I had to carefully remove the case, put the two spars on the deck and then recover the model. Another round of fingerprint removal was needed before I could recommence taking pictures again. 😀 So I am now calling this one completed. I would like to thank everyone who has looked in on my build log, thanks also for the likes and comments, suggestions and ideas, and encouragement. Some final thoughts on the model, the Artesania Pen Duick is a great model of a historic yacht. If you have made any AL models before you will know that the kits provide a good basis for a model but the fixtures and fittings are a little sub par. Certainly with these older AL models the instructions are also pretty minimal. The biggest hurdle to overcome was the practically non existent rigging information, and a lack of detail in the sparse information that was provided. The rigging of the model turned out to be fairly simple to do in practice, but it was quite hard to work out what was required and how everything connected. It is also a fairly good sized kit with a length of 543mm, so it doesn't take up too much space but at 1:28 scale the fixtures aren't too tiny to work with. If you have built any model ships previously you won't have any problems with the Pen Duick, and it does make a nice change from the 18th century warships! If you are happy to buy some replacement parts to help make the build easier and at the same time better, then you can end up with a great model. Thanks once again for your interest in this build. Jeremy
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- Artesania Latina
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Thanks for the kind words and encouragement Bryan and Thukydides. I finished working on the base today and so hopefully tomorrow I will get everything together and finally have the model on display!
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I have been focussing on the display case over the last couple of weeks. I had previously purchased a nice piece of American oak for the base board of the case and I am fortunate enough to have a neighbour with a well equipped woodworking shed who was able to turn the somewhat rough looking length of wood into a very presentable piece of oak. He ran it through his thicknessers, cut it down to size and squared it all off etc. So far I haven't decided whether to add any coats of wop or other finish to it as I quite like the current look. I also used an offcut of some Tasmanian oak I had to make 6 little feet for the base board so that it stands 10mm off the table on which it will eventually be placed. The feet will be glued and screwed to the base once I have finished the rest of the work on the base itself. I also arranged for the manufacture of an acrylic cover made from 6mm thick acrylic. It is a five sided case that can just be lifted on and off the base board. The dimensions for the case are 180mm wide by 690mm long by 720mm tall. This took a couple of weeks to be made at a local factory and I was able to collect it earlier this week. I haven't unwrapped it just yet as I'm trying to keep it as clean and scratch free as possible! The plan is to rout a 4mm or 5mm deep slot in the baseboard matching the dimensions of the case so that the base of the case can sit in the recess nicely where it will be held safely in place and can't be knocked askew. I also hope to add a nice chamfer to the edges of the base board just to make it a little more pleasing on the eye. Mounting holes for the brass rods will also need to be drilled in the base board to hold the model securely in place. Hopefully they are all things that can be done this coming weekend. I have also received a nice brass plaque (3 inch x 5 inch) I ordered online with the name of the ship and the build details. This will be placed on the base board inside the case. There has been very little work on the model itself, apart from a little touching up of the paint here or there and a check to make sure that the rigging is still correct and everything is in place. I am trying to avoid moving it in fear of knocking something about now I am so close to the end!
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Hello and welcome !
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The first step in making the ensign was preparing the modelspan. I cut a section of the material and stretched it over a frame made from an old box and then applied a solution of watered down PVA glue across the material to strengthen and stiffen the paper slightly. Once that had dried I then applied three coats of Vallejo white paint over a large area of the paper. Once that had dried the paper was then turned over and three coast of white were applied to the second side of the modelspan. I have found to my cost before that making just one flag isn't a good idea if re-dos are required, and so my plan this time was to apply the paint in such a way that I would be left with multiple versions of the ensign. I had thought that the French ensign was simply three equal sized sections of red, white and blue but it turns out that isn't the case - in fact the proportions are blue 30%, white 33% and red 37%. Apparently this helps make each section look equal in size when the ensign is fluttering in the wind - you learn something new all the time! So having painted a large part of the background white I then marked off two white sections with some 10mm tamiya tape - these would be the white central portion of the ensign. I then applied three coats of Vallejo red and blue paint to the modelspan going well past the ends of where the ensign would finish so that it could then easily be cut to size. This was then repeated on the second side of the modelspan. I had thought French Blue may have been the correct shade but it looked very bright to my eye so in the end I opted for Imperial Blue. I ended up with enough painted modelspan to make about ten ensigns in all! I cut the modelspan in half through the central blue section and trimmed one part down to the size I wanted my ensign to be - 30mm x 20mm. The staff for the ensign was made from a length of 4mm oak. This was firstly reduced to 3mm diameter on the lathe before being tapered at one end to 2mm diameter. Three brass split rings were cut to size and glued around the staff as shown in the kit instructions. A loop was made in a piece of Syren tan 0.2mm line to fit around the top of the ensign staff and this length of line was then glued in a fold of the blue portion of the ensign. All that was then required was to slip the loop over the top of the ensign staff and tie it off towards the bottom before trimming away the excess line. I then spent a little time rolling and coaxing the ensign into a shape that looked a little like it was just hanging in the still air - I didn't think it would look right to have it flying proudly in the wind on a yacht without sails! The ensign staff was then glued into place on the stern of the model. This pretty much wraps up all of the construction of the model but there is still a little more work to do in touching up paintwork and checking the rigging etc before I can call it finished. I also have to work on the base for the display case and prepare that for mounting the model.
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