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    Penrith, NSW

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  1. Hi Bob, Drilling pilot holes of a slightly smaller diameter than the pin just makes it easier to insert the pins and minimises the risk of me pushing too hard and breaking things 🙂
  2. I just use some map pins with an offcut of the first planking skewered on it to provide a bit protection against the second layer. I drill a run of holes in the first planking so that the pins then hold down the second layer. I just wouldn't trust myself to get the plank in the correct place with CA and not make a mess. It sounds like you are doing well now though.
  3. I'm using pva for the second planking. It's a slower process but provides me with more control.
  4. Thukydides and Phill, I'm also working on the 2nd planking and had planned to thin down part 76 to match the thickness of the wale.
  5. I guess that is one of the benefits of working with wood - it easy easy to adapt things 😀
  6. When you get down to the keel area I would suggest you leave your run of planking short of the deadwood area. I planked all the way to the stern and even though I had thinned the false keel originally I basically had to sand the ends of the planks away to get them to be thin enough once the second layer is added. It doesn't say it in the manual but if you look carefully at the top left picture on p20 you can see where the run of planks in the first layer ends short of the stern.
  7. Well done. Good fairing is key for making the planking go as easily as possible. I spent a lot more time fairing this model than I did on my first build and it made a big difference with the planking process.
  8. No sorry. I'm not sure I'm competent enough at either the building of the model or the writing about it to tackle a build log yet!
  9. Good luck with the build. I'm in the middle of making mine and have found the instruction manual to be very very helpful!
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