thibaultron
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thibaultron reacted to NMBROOK in The Bitumen Experiment
That looks great Chris Alex has a post on there describing the technique he uses but the translator makes it almost comical to read As well as 'ageing' it does seem to bring detail out,similarly to a wash in plastic model building.I assume you are referring to Mr Shevelev,the ageing on his 74 looks the business.Incidentally his 74 took a silver at Haydock Park IMBS in the UK this summer(second only to another Russian entry)
Kind Regards
Nigel
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thibaultron reacted to ChrisLBren in The Bitumen Experiment
Hi Group,
I've been playing around with my typical finish -3 Coats Pure Tung Oil (first one cut 50 percent by mineral spirits) and I've added Bitumen to the top coat and here are the results - thanks to Dimitry on the Russian forums for giving me this tip to age wood. No simulated caulking added here - just wood sanded to 600 and then finish applied
This is the finish I will apply to my next build - La Jacinthe in 1/36th. Ive added some photos to compare this new technique to my usual on Confederacy.
Your thoughts as always are appreciated,
Chris
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thibaultron got a reaction from Canute in Shapeways 3D printed parts-What type paint do I need to use?
According to research on the internet. First set the parts out in the sun for a day. The parts are UV cured, and Shapeways does not always cure them long enough. Wash in hot soapy water, then rinse. Prime with the paint of your choice. Enamels or acrylic, I'm not sure if lacquer would damage it.
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thibaultron got a reaction from mtaylor in Shapeways 3D printed parts-What type paint do I need to use?
According to research on the internet. First set the parts out in the sun for a day. The parts are UV cured, and Shapeways does not always cure them long enough. Wash in hot soapy water, then rinse. Prime with the paint of your choice. Enamels or acrylic, I'm not sure if lacquer would damage it.
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thibaultron reacted to bear in Shapeways 3D printed parts-What type paint do I need to use?
Ahoy Mates
Just received some 3D printed parts for a scratch build I will be making of my Dads ship he served on in 1942-43 in Greenland. The Albatross Class Minesweeper AM72 USS Bluebird in 1/96 scale.
I purchased USN navy figures,Lewis air cooled macine guns and a 3"50cal Dual Purpose single Gun mounT. I have read some ways of cleaning and painting 3D printed parts but want to know if any body here has experience with these type of parts. And whats the best way to paint them,and which paint to use.
Here's what they look like. It's hard to see the fine details of the figures since they are in frosted white color.
Keith
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thibaultron got a reaction from Canute in Gun Port "rigging" question
I don't know if the book is correct, but the AOTS "USS Essex by Portia Takakjian, shows gun port with lids with rigging that would hold them at a similar angle to that used in the MS cannon diorama. These ports are below the weather deck, but with not much more height between the top of the port lid and the point that the lanyard enters the hull.
As I already have the lid mounted, I'll just go with that setup, but use thread instead of the chain. It may not be 100% historically accurate, but it looks OK.
Unlike the MS kit, though, I made hooks for the ends of the gun tackle to carriage rigging. The MS kit has the blocks served directly to the carriage eyebolts, but all the diagrams I found show the hooks. They also show the blocks as iron stroped, but the diagrams all show rope stroped, so I'll use thread for this too. Luckily there were just enough spare eyebolts and cut offs from the tails to make the hooks. Bough three different jeweler's beading and ring makers pliers for this and future jobs.
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thibaultron reacted to allanyed in Gun Port "rigging" question
Ron,
I am in agreement with Jud, Gun ports on the QD, forecastle or even in the waist, had no lids. The bulkhead and cap rail indicates that this is probably one of those areas. Lids in these areas would serve no purpose, so the money would not be spent to put them (or anything else that is not needed) on most ships.
Allan
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thibaultron got a reaction from Canute in Gun Port "rigging" question
The lid is already attached. Most observers would expect one to be there anyway, even if I know that it should not be there. I'll use rope instead of the chain. Forty years ago my hands shuck a lot less than they do now, and thread is easier than working with really small chain, besides I have another model whick that chain would be perfect for.
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thibaultron got a reaction from mtaylor in Gun Port "rigging" question
The lid is already attached. Most observers would expect one to be there anyway, even if I know that it should not be there. I'll use rope instead of the chain. Forty years ago my hands shuck a lot less than they do now, and thread is easier than working with really small chain, besides I have another model whick that chain would be perfect for.
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thibaultron reacted to jud in Gun Port "rigging" question
I took a look at that model, came to the conclusion that I would leave those covers in a box of parts. They would quickly be destroyed by muzzle blast as they are shown. If they were pulled clear up against the bulwarks and secured or removed from the port they might survive, but no rigging would be needed, because they can be easily reached and handled. I question that they would be used as shown, higher and more substantial bulwarks might have covers with the needed rigging, but not that model. If you choose to use them, just use a short line up over the rail and tie them off so they lie up against the bulwarks when open, throw the block and tackle into a parts box along with the chains. If you choose to rig those port covers as shown, few if any, will question it.
jud
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thibaultron got a reaction from Canute in Gun Port "rigging" question
P.S. I'm trying to model an American flavor look.
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thibaultron got a reaction from Osmosis in Gun Port "rigging" question
I'm building a MS Smoothbore cannon model, and I have a question about the "rigging" used to raise the gun port cover/lid.
The kit supplies chain for the external and through the bulworks portion of the rigging. This goes to the first block, and then line is used for the rest of the assembly.
I looked at several AOT ship books and they show Lanyards (I assume rope) used for this. I'd think chains would wear away the paint and chew into the wood.
So, finally, were chains ever used, or were rope leads more common?
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thibaultron reacted to SomethingIsFishy in Wood masts for a plastic model... Tips?
Thanks again to all of you for your input!!! My plan as of now is to go ahead and assemble the plastic masts to see how they feel, if they're solid enough to work for me I will use them. If not, then I will try wood...
I will be starting the build, and the build log, on my birthday, October 9th. Is it October 9th yet??
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thibaultron reacted to reklein in Wood masts for a plastic model... Tips?
I'm a fan of making masts from straight grained square stock. Its the only way you can get a predictable taper. Mark the center of you spar on the end with a dot. Then taper the spar equally on four sides keeping your center dot in the middle. Then carve your tapered square stock into an octagon, again keeping your dot centered. Once you have an Octagon its easy to sand it round,and did I say keep the dot centered. Its pretty toough to taper bamboo although its true that its strong. Id recommend basswood just be sure of the straight grain. As you care the wood ,you can use a knife or a small spoke shave. There will be some grain direction so if the blade wants to dive into the wood revserse the direction of carving. Good luck anyway, and replacing weak plastic aint a bad idea but proper rigging can strenghthen it just as on a real ship. Bill
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thibaultron got a reaction from Canute in Wood masts for a plastic model... Tips?
I have found wood dowels almost unuseable. For my Pyro skipjack build, I went through my entire collection of kits (good and bad name manuf.), and found maybe 3 straight dowels in the lot!
I'm planning to make masts from square stock. I already made the bowsprit. Not your typical job, as the bowsprit on a skipjack curve downward toward the fore end. I made the sprit from a larger dowel that I squared (rectangulared?) up then cut in the curve, and shaped it. This is actually how the real bowsprits were made, the curve was cut into the spar, it was not bent into shape. I used the dowel as it was all I had at the time.
For the mast, I have both basswood, and boxwood. I'll practice on the basswood, then make the final one out of boxwood. Unless the basswood mast looks really good, then I'll save the boxwood for another project.
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thibaultron reacted to SomethingIsFishy in Wood masts for a plastic model... Tips?
Thank you so much for the tips! I might try the supplied masts, I could build them and dry fit them into the hull to get a feel for how rigid or flexible they are. My only experience is with Lindberg's Jolly Roger, which has very flimsy masts... Made rigging interesting...
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thibaultron reacted to Jaager in Wood masts for a plastic model... Tips?
If you split out the mast and yard stock from a board of a straight grained species and shape that, it will not want to bend over time.
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thibaultron reacted to Thunder in Wood masts for a plastic model... Tips?
When I built that particular model I had no trouble with the plastic masts as, unlike Heller's war ships, the masts are reasonably solid. It is still on show after 20 years so will check it for you when I get home to see how it has faired.
The top tip I would give you, for building that model, is to get the Noel C L Hackney book for the Airfix Mayflower. This is a step by step guide to building the model at three different levels of expertise and is brilliant. That Revell kit is very good but this will help you achieve museum standard.
If the masts are hollow you can use metal rod glued inside. For the yards you can replace studding sail booms with metal rod to strengthen the yard ( obviously not on your ship).
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thibaultron reacted to overdale in Wood masts for a plastic model... Tips?
Get yourself a pack of bamboo kebab skewers from the supermarket and a draw plate from Model Expo or Ebay. You can make some very passable small scale wooden masts with those.
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thibaultron got a reaction from mtaylor in Wood masts for a plastic model... Tips?
I have found wood dowels almost unuseable. For my Pyro skipjack build, I went through my entire collection of kits (good and bad name manuf.), and found maybe 3 straight dowels in the lot!
I'm planning to make masts from square stock. I already made the bowsprit. Not your typical job, as the bowsprit on a skipjack curve downward toward the fore end. I made the sprit from a larger dowel that I squared (rectangulared?) up then cut in the curve, and shaped it. This is actually how the real bowsprits were made, the curve was cut into the spar, it was not bent into shape. I used the dowel as it was all I had at the time.
For the mast, I have both basswood, and boxwood. I'll practice on the basswood, then make the final one out of boxwood. Unless the basswood mast looks really good, then I'll save the boxwood for another project.
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thibaultron reacted to Thunder in Wood masts for a plastic model... Tips?
You can buy various dowel rods from craft stores on line beech being good but you can find other wooden rod from other sources, wooden cotton buds, tooth picks or if you go to a ladies beauty salon they have a device called orange sticks for pushing back nail cuticles which is good quality wood. I Have some vary large cotton buds that are sold for cleaning equipment but cannot remember what for now, mine were from a lumonics laser printer. Keep your eye open when out and about, sometimes stirring sticks from well know fast food outlets come in handy!
When doing my plastic kits I would rig in the same order as a real ship but add temporary forward stays to prevent rigging the back stays pulling the masts out of true. Just make sure you do not use thread with a tendency to shrink.
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thibaultron reacted to jdbondy in Flexament cement
Has anyone tried using a fly tying adhesive called Flexament? I am trying it on seizings that are done with synthetic fly tying thread. Since I am trying to swear off of the CA for fixing seizings, I have tried dilute white glue (doesn't bond well to synthetic thread) and flat topcoat/varnish (requires setting overnight). Flexament appears to be a possible solution. It appears to be thinned rubber cement, or at least it certainly smells that way! So far, testing a seizing made with 6/0 Unithread appears to be giving a pretty fast and durable bond.
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thibaultron reacted to _SalD_ in 3-D Armenia by SalD – Hudson River Sidewheeler, 1847
Next I decided to work on the paddlewheels. I started with the crank arm with dimensions taken from the drawing. I also learnt that the length of the arm will be half of the stroke length. So with a stroke of 14’ the arm is 7 feet long.
The flanges for the paddlewheel arms were next. Followed by the shaft.
The buckets (paddles) on the paddlewheel are 8’-3” long by 2’-4” wide. There are 13 main buckets and 13 intermediate buckets per wheel. The wheel was 29’-4” in diameter and rotated at a speed of 17rpm.
One question I had about the buckets is; are they made of one piece of wood 28” wide or of three planks 9 1/4” wide?
After making one set of the main and intermediate buckets it was very simple to array (copy) them 13 times around the center hub. Iron bands were added as shown on the drawings.
After one paddlewheel was completed it was just a matter of copying it to the other side for the complete paddlewheel assemble
I like this view.
wheels set in the hull
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thibaultron reacted to _SalD_ in 3-D Armenia by SalD – Hudson River Sidewheeler, 1847
Elijah, It does go pretty quickly especially when there's a lot of symmetry. Draw one side of the ship and then just mirror that side to make the other. To make the parts you basically copy what's on the drawing in 2D and then give it some depth.
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thibaultron reacted to Elijah in 3-D Armenia by SalD – Hudson River Sidewheeler, 1847
At this rate, you will be finished within two weeks! What do you do to make all the different parts fit the right shape?
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