igorcap

Finally finished the transom.
Last set of notches (aka "macro is brutal")

 
Horizontal piece also got some of them, on a weird angles:

 
Glued in, treenailed and masked for fairing:

 
Fairing was easy, because the smooth curve of the transom allowed to use the plane:

 
Faired. I made one mistake, one joint is too shallow, so can't fair this junction properly - the wood is too thin and will fall off
Too late and painful to fix, decided to leave it as is. Eventually this will become a part of the quarter gallery, so it will be less visible:

 
Put the oil on it (that was fun, so many surfaces to carefully oil and so many are crossing each other). Can't wait for it to dry, sorry for reflexes due to wet oil!
Note that due to a different grain orientation, oil resulted in different colours for different groups of timbers. Light "along the grain", medium dark "diagonal grain" and very dark "cross grain". It is all made literally made of the same piece of wood, I promise! Wood is magic
Not everything aligned as it should, but I started with a not very symmetrical transom, at least haven't made it worse. Will pay much more attention to the proper alignment in the next build!

 

 

 
Now I am taking a short break - will shift attention to the jewellery box I promised to admiral, and then will come back to this log with a display case for the model. The model is far from being complete, but it does not stop from displaying it properly, and will definitely help to keep the dust off.

I started to manufacture and assemble parts. Probably, this work takes a lot of time (several months)

Hello everybody,
 
I was was starting to feel a little burnt out trying to catch up with model two so I had to take a little break for the Holidays.  I was able to get the tarred roof on and the chimneys completed but, never got a chance to post.  Sorry for leaving many steps out trying to catch up.
 
For the tarred roof I used silk.  I experimented with several adhesives but finally settled on shellac.  One very thin application to penetrate the wood.  Then a second heavier coat to provide a layer to bond to.  I was a little concerned that I would never be able to get the wrinkles out but, after laying the silk on the roof and brushing with shellac, the silk pulled itself to the prepared surface like a magnet.  I was able to apply the entire roof in about 30 minutes.  The shellac dries to an almost glass hard surface and bonds quite well.
 
 
Test piece wood with silk applied.  The silk was originally blue but, somehow changed to dark black the moment the shellac made contact.  I have no idea about the physics of it but it saved me from having to paint the entire surface.

 
Completed tarred roof on the model.

 
Ground glazing installed on the skylights.

 
To make the chimneys as rigid as possible, I used an oak dowel as a core.

 
wooden rings were used as spacers between the top ends of the chimney segments and the dowels.  The lower edge of the segment fit tightly over the segment just below it.

 

 

 

 

 

 
The chimneys required three guy wires each for support.  We had plenty of illustrations but only a couple showed the location of all three.  Information was combined from several illustrations. 
 
The Ouachita

 
Delphine

 
Homer

 
Napoleon

 
Yellow Stone

 
Selma

 
Bands for the guy wires.
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Blackened bands

 
Guy wires in place.

Machined pieces of the pawl rims.

 
Completed pawl rims waiting for their pawls.

Hello wefalck Of course, you're absolutely right in terms of the historical reality in terms of engineering performance copies of this ship. However, at such a small scale to try to do so as the present, the real ship is not possible. In addition, it should not be done. I do not make a real ship. I'm trying to create a model of the ship and it is above all the image of a real ship. The model is first and foremost a work of applied art. My task is to convey accurately the artistic image, the spirit of a real ship. Therefore (after the experiment), I chose the most successful variant (close to reality), which would correspond to the artistic concept model. Special thanks for the excellent photos. I already took this photo in my archive. Very useful for creating a model in 1:24 scale (at least !!!)

beginning underwater casing

Another photo and Merry Christmas
 

 

 

Finally got a few hours to work on the model
 
Tried a better method of cutting the inner lines of the slightly curved pieces, using a mill. It is described in TFFM, and with a very slight improvements it works really well!
 
The blanks are cut on the bandsaw, and outer curve is shaped on a disk sander:

 
After milling - smooth inner curve, super consistent width, and no nicks!

 
One of the timbers has a bevel, dividers are really handy to properly mark it up:

 
Result:

 
That timbers are curved in two dimensions, and another curve I made by dry-bending with heat.
Finally used my granddad hand vice that I have no opportunity to use previously

 
Seems like my hair dryer is too gentle and is not hot enough So two timbers cracked when I was gently bending them around a large cooking pot. Will try some cheap chinese hair dryer that does not care about your hair and can produce really hot air Or just go back to the steam/boiling method, it worked pretty well.

 
Careful alignment and markup:


 
Now need to cut the notches and make everything flush!

The log is not abandoned, just a very slow building due to an upcoming Christmas and everything related to it.
 
Notches lined up:

 
Whoopsie, forgot that wings are at an angle. Argh, redoing this piece again from scratch.

 
Two curved things are in place, one to go and then I can fair it nice and flush:

Wanted a featherboard for the table saw. Magswitch looked really good: https://www.amazon.com/Magswitch-Table-Feather-Universal-Model/dp/B001DSZ7EC
But I forgot that my table top is aluminum, not iron. So magnets are not working on it
So I bought this attachment, because I really liked the material (and it also includes all the hardware, bolts and knobs)
https://www.amazon.com/Magswitch-Vertical-Featherboard-Attachment/dp/B006SJH0SW
 
It was, obviously, too large for my saw, so I shortened it a bit, cutting off a long middle section and gluing the remaining parts with epoxy, reinforced with a wooden block inside the featherboard:

 
After squaring and shortening the bolts, it was a perfect fit and it works like a charm:

Hello everyone,
 
Sorry for not being in touch for a while.  I've had a string of very busy weekends for the Holidays and haven't had the chance to post anything.  The last couple of weeks I've completed the last details that I needed to finish the Hurricane deck.  Hopefully, I'll be able to apply the canvas to the deck this next week.
 
Originally, I was going to try to frame up the skylights with individual timbers but then I wondered if it could be milled from four solid panels.  They turned out ok and it saved me a lot of time.  The skylights on some of the early steamers were glazed with ground glass for privacy.  I will be using sanded mica.
 
Front panel of the skylight in the mill.

 

 
Finished panels

 

 
Sorry, once again I should have dusted the parts before taking the photo.

 
There was probably a large galley stove on the main deck.  Kevin chose this Wilson's patent stove to represent Heroine's.

 
Kevin's drawing of Heroine's galley stove.

 
Freshly milled parts.  I used a block of walnut as a core for the stove.

 
Ceaned parts ready for soldering.

 
 
Finished galley stove.

 
Stove installed on main deck with firebrick lining and stovepipe.

 
One crushed stovepipe cap was recovered from the wreck.

 
Scale patterns for the stovepipe cap.  The top piece was cut from .01 inch brass sheet.

 

 

 
To shape the cap I turned a piece of aluminum with the proper angle.  Before shaping I heated the part to anneal it then I was able to easily shape it to the form without creases.  

 

 
The uprights were filed from an appropriately sized brass tube.

 

 
Finished cap.

 
Cabin stove stovepipes blackened and capped.  The larger galley stove pipe still needs to be blackened and capped.

Secret technology is very interesting  I like !

another photos
 

 

 

 

Secret technology is very interesting  I like !

Technology is no longer a secret. I did not strain your brain. Our dear great friend Dr. Michael long ago came up with the technology. Dr. Michael kindly told me all the details of the technology. However, it was always just the improvement in my repertoire. I added a digital technology and better materials. So my merit is not great.

Hello Nils. I use a sheet of brass rolled thickness of 0.3 mm.Dlya smaller models is convenient to use a sheet thickness of 0.2 - 0.25 mm.

Hi Greg. Yes indeed. I'm using CNC machine for die manufacturing.

No. Lead use is not desirable. I tried to get bad. For the "mom" is better to use a solid metal. I tried the aluminum but it quickly wears out. So I began to use steel 45.

Slow progress. I continue to work with fine poverhnostyami.Izgotavlivayu stamp and press sheets for the underwater part.

I began to stamp sheets underwater casing ...

I don't think that dye is an issue if applied off-model. The problem would be even a tiny droplet landing where you don't want it on your model! I dye my wales as the first planks hung on the model, taking extra care with masking at the stem. However, it's all a matter of personal preference.

Finally got an hour to work on a model - light up some candles, prepare tea, nice music, relax..

 
Still fine-tuning that pesky notches.  Sorry for receptiveness of the photos, but want to share because this turned out to be a tricky task. I should have made the transom assembly in advance, probably...

 
Broke the scalpel handle to make it easier to bend it - that is the only way I found to make this cut:

I made stamps from solid high carbon steel with heat treatment. It was the most difficult process of work.

Hi Gleen your work is very very fantastic.

Great to have you and this little beauty back Glenn.  I hope the novovirus didn't take too much out of you as it can be very debilitating.
 
I would love to see this model, and your other work, in real life as the detailing is simply superb.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Good to see you back, Glenn. Hope you are feeling A1 again. Nice to see your update as well. Too bad that lovely decking will all be covered.