Cap'n Rat Fink

Thanks Denis and enjoy your snow...!
 
 
 






Well I'm trying to get back to my model, But here in California it is just a plain pain in the butt dealing with disability insurance. But back to my build.

I bought this kit a few years back. But I failed to purchase cherry for the rest of the build at that time. So I do have some cherry from another build left over, but the color between the two is just off. Which just bugs me. So since I am trying to do what i can internally before I pull the model from the jig, I decided to use basswood for the forward deck clamps. To save what I can of the cherry I got left. This won't be a problem because my plan is the plank the hull almost completely and the same for the deck. So this deck clamp won't be seen. I just like the look of these schooners. IMO they just look real good fully planked. So that is where I'm headed.









Now this next pic you will see a redline. I am going to cut this portion of the jig out exposing the last can't frame and the stern. I have to add all the support and the other transoms to the stern, but I can't get to it unless I cut this portion of the jig out. Leaving the rest will protect the bow and the full frames while I am dealing with the stern. So thanks for stopping by

And a few more pics...

Ok I am in the process of adding the other 4 transoms. I took all measurements from Hahns plans. All pieces are 1/8" in thickness including the basswood spacers. You will see pictures of the plans. To bar any issues from showing this online with all this copy rights thing going on, the pictures of the plans were taken at an angle to distort them a bit.
If anybody sees that I have an issue with my transoms please tell me because I am learning. I am following Bob's practicum. Which has been very helpful. Learning a lot here!

Thanks Denis and enjoy your snow...!
 
 
 






Well I'm trying to get back to my model, But here in California it is just a plain pain in the butt dealing with disability insurance. But back to my build.

I bought this kit a few years back. But I failed to purchase cherry for the rest of the build at that time. So I do have some cherry from another build left over, but the color between the two is just off. Which just bugs me. So since I am trying to do what i can internally before I pull the model from the jig, I decided to use basswood for the forward deck clamps. To save what I can of the cherry I got left. This won't be a problem because my plan is the plank the hull almost completely and the same for the deck. So this deck clamp won't be seen. I just like the look of these schooners. IMO they just look real good fully planked. So that is where I'm headed.









Now this next pic you will see a redline. I am going to cut this portion of the jig out exposing the last can't frame and the stern. I have to add all the support and the other transoms to the stern, but I can't get to it unless I cut this portion of the jig out. Leaving the rest will protect the bow and the full frames while I am dealing with the stern. So thanks for stopping by

And a few more pics...

Ok I am in the process of adding the other 4 transoms. I took all measurements from Hahns plans. All pieces are 1/8" in thickness including the basswood spacers. You will see pictures of the plans. To bar any issues from showing this online with all this copy rights thing going on, the pictures of the plans were taken at an angle to distort them a bit.
If anybody sees that I have an issue with my transoms please tell me because I am learning. I am following Bob's practicum. Which has been very helpful. Learning a lot here!

And a few more pics...

Ok I am in the process of adding the other 4 transoms. I took all measurements from Hahns plans. All pieces are 1/8" in thickness including the basswood spacers. You will see pictures of the plans. To bar any issues from showing this online with all this copy rights thing going on, the pictures of the plans were taken at an angle to distort them a bit.
If anybody sees that I have an issue with my transoms please tell me because I am learning. I am following Bob's practicum. Which has been very helpful. Learning a lot here!

Thanks Denis and enjoy your snow...!
 
 
 






Well I'm trying to get back to my model, But here in California it is just a plain pain in the butt dealing with disability insurance. But back to my build.

I bought this kit a few years back. But I failed to purchase cherry for the rest of the build at that time. So I do have some cherry from another build left over, but the color between the two is just off. Which just bugs me. So since I am trying to do what i can internally before I pull the model from the jig, I decided to use basswood for the forward deck clamps. To save what I can of the cherry I got left. This won't be a problem because my plan is the plank the hull almost completely and the same for the deck. So this deck clamp won't be seen. I just like the look of these schooners. IMO they just look real good fully planked. So that is where I'm headed.









Now this next pic you will see a redline. I am going to cut this portion of the jig out exposing the last can't frame and the stern. I have to add all the support and the other transoms to the stern, but I can't get to it unless I cut this portion of the jig out. Leaving the rest will protect the bow and the full frames while I am dealing with the stern. So thanks for stopping by

And a few more pics...

Thanks Denis and enjoy your snow...!
 
 
 






Well I'm trying to get back to my model, But here in California it is just a plain pain in the butt dealing with disability insurance. But back to my build.

I bought this kit a few years back. But I failed to purchase cherry for the rest of the build at that time. So I do have some cherry from another build left over, but the color between the two is just off. Which just bugs me. So since I am trying to do what i can internally before I pull the model from the jig, I decided to use basswood for the forward deck clamps. To save what I can of the cherry I got left. This won't be a problem because my plan is the plank the hull almost completely and the same for the deck. So this deck clamp won't be seen. I just like the look of these schooners. IMO they just look real good fully planked. So that is where I'm headed.









Now this next pic you will see a redline. I am going to cut this portion of the jig out exposing the last can't frame and the stern. I have to add all the support and the other transoms to the stern, but I can't get to it unless I cut this portion of the jig out. Leaving the rest will protect the bow and the full frames while I am dealing with the stern. So thanks for stopping by

Thanks Denis and enjoy your snow...!
 
 
 






Well I'm trying to get back to my model, But here in California it is just a plain pain in the butt dealing with disability insurance. But back to my build.

I bought this kit a few years back. But I failed to purchase cherry for the rest of the build at that time. So I do have some cherry from another build left over, but the color between the two is just off. Which just bugs me. So since I am trying to do what i can internally before I pull the model from the jig, I decided to use basswood for the forward deck clamps. To save what I can of the cherry I got left. This won't be a problem because my plan is the plank the hull almost completely and the same for the deck. So this deck clamp won't be seen. I just like the look of these schooners. IMO they just look real good fully planked. So that is where I'm headed.









Now this next pic you will see a redline. I am going to cut this portion of the jig out exposing the last can't frame and the stern. I have to add all the support and the other transoms to the stern, but I can't get to it unless I cut this portion of the jig out. Leaving the rest will protect the bow and the full frames while I am dealing with the stern. So thanks for stopping by

I have decided to add whatever I could before removing model from building jig. Plus transfer whatever lines I could from the plans. I added the keelson, plus doing the hawse timber, down the road are the deck clamps, and maybe the deck beams and ledges. But I need to notch out the frames and the jig is in the way. So trying to figure that one out. As for the stern same thing jig is in the way to add the other transoms.

Thanks Mark.
 
 
 
Ok just about done with the fairing I can do with the jig in place. Unlike Hahns jig which leaves a lot of spare material at the top of the frames. I can't get to the tops of the frames without removing the jig. Since after chapter 5 all instruction is with Hahns upside down jig which gives you an advantage of working the interior and exterior. So I am going to do as much of the interior as I can before I remove the model from the jig.

WELL THATS MY PLAN ANYWAY AND IT MAY CHANGE AS I GO ALONG!!!

I'm now fairing the majority of the hull at this time....

I have decided to add whatever I could before removing model from building jig. Plus transfer whatever lines I could from the plans. I added the keelson, plus doing the hawse timber, down the road are the deck clamps, and maybe the deck beams and ledges. But I need to notch out the frames and the jig is in the way. So trying to figure that one out. As for the stern same thing jig is in the way to add the other transoms.

Thanks Mark.
 
 
 
Ok just about done with the fairing I can do with the jig in place. Unlike Hahns jig which leaves a lot of spare material at the top of the frames. I can't get to the tops of the frames without removing the jig. Since after chapter 5 all instruction is with Hahns upside down jig which gives you an advantage of working the interior and exterior. So I am going to do as much of the interior as I can before I remove the model from the jig.

WELL THATS MY PLAN ANYWAY AND IT MAY CHANGE AS I GO ALONG!!!

I'm now fairing the majority of the hull at this time....

Thanks mark, John, Denis,
     Trying to catch up here. Just starting to read your new build log John.
 
 
Hi Ben,
From stern to bow. 14 1/2 inches. Bot sure with the bowsprit haven't gone that far as of yet. She's a little one.


Hi Arthur!


Ok I am thru chapter 5 which works with the building jig that comes with the kit. So I had to work up a plan for me to go on thru the completion of the model. Bob included all the other chapters with this kit to complete the model, but his course w/w Hahn's upside down building jig.
The other clinch it Hahn's method leaves a bit of material on each and every frame. Pulling measurements from the plans the kits frames leave a whole lot less material on the frames. So I have to proceed with caution when I start fairing the hull and cutting the notches out on the frames.
So i am going to alter the jig so I can do the major fairing with the hull still in the jig. But I will have to remove it to complete the fairing higher up on the frames.
One other decision I have to make is there anything I can add to the interior of the hull before I remove it from the jig. I am not experience at all with Hahn's style of building models so I have think things out. Any advice would be nice.

Well I have dealt with some of the going on's with the stern of the Hannah. Never have really done a POF of this nature before. So it's a learn as I go.

Please if you see that I have done something incorrectly. Let me know. I am trying to learn these more complicated models.







I had to bevel both ends and re-locate the outer slots to the wing transom for the outside frames. The bevel was for the WT to sit up against the deadwood

Thanks for the kind remarks....
 
 
The fairing process is on the way




I am using small scrapers for a lot of the fairing process...
 
 


The bow is coming out nicely, more faring to do...
 


The stern cant frames during fairing process...
 
 


An issue has cropped up...
 


A closer look...
 
 


What I am looking at to verify the issue...
 
 




Even though I have this issue, to me it's not a real big problem. After I am done with the fairing of the inside of the hull I will be taking measurements.

My plan is to first measure the spacing of the stern framing slots on the jig. As long has I have the spacing from first port stern frame to the second frame, and the spacing matches the rest of the stern frames I should be good. If it works out like I think it should, I'll just modify the jig a bit so when I do the glue up the stern frames it will be good. All I ask from you more experience POF builders is that my deduction is correct.

The issues I run into are not frustrating, I find it as challenge and a learning experience and of course fun. Getting ready to start my first ever acoustic guitar build for my musician son. Tolerances on that will be a lot tougher.

Please any advice and remarks will be very helpful.

I have decided to add whatever I could before removing model from building jig. Plus transfer whatever lines I could from the plans. I added the keelson, plus doing the hawse timber, down the road are the deck clamps, and maybe the deck beams and ledges. But I need to notch out the frames and the jig is in the way. So trying to figure that one out. As for the stern same thing jig is in the way to add the other transoms.

Well, I am about to start fairing my first POF ship and realized I had no proper sanding blocks.
 
So off to the local Home Depot for a look around. I quickly realized that they had for off the shelf sanding blocks was not going to work. As my wife and friends have told me over the years "my brain has no off switch" so I started looking around for materials to make my own.
 
I did not want to spend a lot of money or time so I went looking for lumber that was the right size to begin with. I was in the paint department looking for adhesive backed sandpaper when I thought of those stir sticks they give you. Perfect. Only now you have to buy them $.98 for a pack of 10 and right with them were packs of 30 over sized tongue depressors for the same price. Plus one 12"x18" sheet of adhesive backed sandpaper came to about $8.00.
 

By the time I got home I had a rough plan anyway. I was only going to need a couple of each so I had plenty for several attempts. The only tools I would need would be my Exacto razor saw and miter box, needle files, a square, a ruler and a few clamps.

One of the tongue depressors after soaking in hot water for about 15 minutes and then getting wrapped around a piece of 1/2" PVC pipe.

While that was drying I laminated the other 2 together and set them aside to dry.

While I cut up the 2 stir sticks.

The first pieces clamped up and set aside to dry.

Back to the tongue depressors. The ends were cut off approximately the same length as the width of the TD and the ends of the remaining piece mitered.

I think you can see where this is going.

 

Glued up and set aside to dry back to the other one. I cut the 2 squares in half and glued them in on both ends.

And here they are after a little trimming and sanding.



 
Not bad for less than $8.00 and a couple hours work. I think the flat one will be fine but I am not so sure about the rounded one. I think I should have laminated 2 together for the rounded part as well. We will find out how they work after a couple of coats of oil based poly to toughen them up a little.
 
Best Regards

I have decided to add whatever I could before removing model from building jig. Plus transfer whatever lines I could from the plans. I added the keelson, plus doing the hawse timber, down the road are the deck clamps, and maybe the deck beams and ledges. But I need to notch out the frames and the jig is in the way. So trying to figure that one out. As for the stern same thing jig is in the way to add the other transoms.

I have decided to add whatever I could before removing model from building jig. Plus transfer whatever lines I could from the plans. I added the keelson, plus doing the hawse timber, down the road are the deck clamps, and maybe the deck beams and ledges. But I need to notch out the frames and the jig is in the way. So trying to figure that one out. As for the stern same thing jig is in the way to add the other transoms.