JPett

Hi Mates,
 
Well she is done. Last pics for this log, a big thanks, especially to those of you who have followed along – for such a long time!! adding your kind and encouraging words, and all of your important advice. So many of your compliments have also helped me become a better builder – again thanks. Big thanks for so many of your Like clicks and visits as well.
 
Captain Steve: Up next, after much hand wringing –it was between the Billing Oseberg (1/25th) 
As much as I became obsesses with Vikings after watching all seasons of The Vikings this kit is just too big (my fault for not paying attention to its size during the purchase) Yes there are smaller size kits – could be…..
 
So having learned so much with Vasa, I will go with the OcCre Santisima Trinidad cross section. I intend to bash the heck out of it, including leaving some of the lower and upper gun deck planking bare, as well as poss. at the weather deck as well – showing the, to be added,  under framings. And trying my first at coppering the hull. 
 
Jörgen regarding the woods – those that came with the kit, along with wood from Corel’s Mirage. Then from Midwest products; some walnut, mahogany, Cherry, and beech. I did not use any finish on this build, nor do I intend to.
 
Again Mates THANKS SO MUCH for your kind words.
 
Regards,
 
 
 

I have been on the journey for over 8 years, it has taken me down a road filled with Ups, downs, joys, frustration, learning, satisfaction and know pride of accomplishment.  I have said she’s not best looking one at the ball, but she’s mine, built my way, for me , at the end of the day I believe that’s why we all love this crazy world of ship building. My thanks to the many members who provided much needed advice and ideas along the way.  Special thanks to JS Gerson and Martin W.   I would also like to thank the staff of MSW for providing an excellent site, for keeping the art of ship building alive.  The build may be complete but know its time to build the case, to keep her save for many years to come.

Again thanks for all the support  MOG  

An update - not new build stuff, rather this is about when I may resume.  I am close to setting a retirement date at the end of 2021/beginning of 2022.  Since I originally took up model ship building as something I would be able to do after the working days were done, it seems fitting that resumption be tied to that event. 
 
Bluenose is still sitting quietly on the workbench (in her Lands End cradle), patiently awaiting my attention.  The time is coming!
 
Bob

The Final phase , rigged all the bow blocks, stepped the bowsprit  8 years of getting there, starting to get that feeling of accomplishment, however not just yet

Hello Everyone..
Well it has finally happened; the display case arrived and after breaking the "pointy thing" *   3 more times, Victory is safely sitting in its final resting place, the display case.  When the case was delivered, I anxiously watched as the delivery people placed the cover on the table.  To say I was nervous is definitely an understatement.  And sure enough as I "carefully" carried Victory toward the rear opening in the case, I hit the edge of the cover and cracked the last segment of the bowsprit.  So, I said goodbye to the delivery people, and carried the model back to my shop/office to make repairs of the bowsprit.  About an hour later everything seemed back to normal and once again I picked up the ship and as I was leaving my office, I hit a door jamb and BAM!, off went the same piece of bowsprit.  So back to the office to assess and repair the damage once more.  This time the repair was much more involved.  I had to remove 6 stays from the bowsprit, sever it completely, clean off previous glue and other gunk, repaint, replace and retie the stays.  This took about three hours.  It was now time, once more, to carry the model back to the room where the case is.  With both mine and my Admiral's fingers crossed, I managed to successfully reach the case and as I started to place  Victory into the case I hit the edge of the case and...you guessed it...knocked the "pointy thing" askew.  The repair was very easy this time, just a matter of a little CV cement and a few seconds of holding the tip in place.  All was well again and the model made it into the case without any more trouble
 
I truly believe that I was more nervous at this time than at any other time during the building stage but all is well and good and here some photos of the case and the ship inside.  Living in Florida, the land of sunshine, it was impossible to get a picture of the display case without the relections seen.  I'm sorry about that.
 
I have started  a new build, Corel's Half Moon, and its progress can be seen on my new log,
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/9065-half-moon-by-jerry-corel-scale-150/?hl=%2Bhalf+%2Bmoon+%2Bcorel+%2Bjerry
 
*   @Copyright by Shipyard Sid
     2014

Decided to mount the jackstaff version 2.0 since the Admiral made it a special request. Trying to mount it on the ship was not nearly as difficult as it would have been to tie on the flag if I’d mounted it first...so good decision on my part. Next time, I’ll mount it but with holes for ball trucks. Trickiest part of mounting it was making sure it was true vertical. 

Here are the flags...followed Chuck’s recommendation and left out the pennant. 





Also mounted the cannon stocks and test fit the cannon. I’ll retouch them before glueing them in. I know the plan call for 4 cannon mounted on the bow, and I made them...but I like the look of the ship without them...so I left them off. My ship...my rules. 

Lastly, I got the rope coils mounted on the mast cleats. Also got the coils made and planted on the deck. 



Leaving me with the shroud cleats rope coils, and the nameplate for the transom. 
 
Moving on...that light is shining pretty darned bright at the end of the tunnel!!!
 

Current update, had started on my rigging, talk about testing some patience. I had run out of 1.2mm rope from my Corel kit, however the good folks in Milan supplied me what I needed....free of charge! Kudos to Corel !
 
 

After a few more hours and some patience, the main mast with its' yard, topsail yard, and topgallant yard....again the main mast just seated in its' position, not fully secured yet.
 

Attached the 'Spritsail yard' on the bowsprit...not too bad of a task.

 
And the Spritsail Topsail Yard....
 

While the three masts basically completed (just sitting dry in their respective locations), I also completed the bowsprit along with it's flying jib boom. Here's a pic.
 

Just a couple of pics of my masts I began a few weeks ago. Started on the fore mast, then the main. I'm now onto the third mast (aft I suppose you'd call it).
In one of the pics, both masts are respectively in their spot, not at all glued yet. Once I finish the third, then I'll start placing those cross pieces that would hold up the sails (which I'm not going to put sails on, would take away from the intricacies of the rigging and showing that off).
 
My vision (from all the pics you've come across from my log) is to simply model it and look like the picture from the Corel box, I just love that color of wood. I know she did not look like that, however I couldn't bring myself to paint over this natural looking walnut, etc...
 
A couple of years ago, I visited the UK and went to see this fabulous ship at the dock in Portsmouth, what an awesome adventure it was. If you haven't seen her in person, I suggest GO!!
 
Rob
 
 

Hi, I've been busy since my last post, last year around The Masters tourney, I have some updates (via photos) of my Victory since then...enjoy
 

Build is proceeding along.  With the masts set it looks like a mass of lines. After all the off ship rigging it took some time to retrace all the lines to their proper termination points.  Had to add several new  kevels to spread out the lines, as there was allot of congestion around the bits, causing crossed lines.

For the lower shrouds I made the cleats and attached the coiled lines before adding them to the rigged shrouds  

Ahoy Brett
 
I started with a Panavise. I owned it, but they sell for les then 30 dollars at Frys. It worked great. I have since purchased an Amati Keel Clamp which while more then twice the price is very nice.
 
I don't know how some of these guys planked without the keel securely mounted but I guess they proved it is possible
 
 

Ahoy Mates
 
Thanks for coming aboard
 
JB: I did a Google search and found that there are some vendors stating this "which BTW is a stretch". What I believe they are saying is you can build it "fully rigged" or as a "hull only" which in my opinion is not truly an admiralty model with exposed frames and deck structure. There is no option that I see included with this kit to build it any other way but fully planked.  You could however build and display just the hull only which would make a very impressive display piece.
 
David: Thx, I had some difficulty finding information regarding this kit and thought I would start off by addressing this for others. So far I have been spending my time deciphering the "little book" and getting familiar with the plans.  It really is a nice kit and I look forward to years of enjoyment.
 
 
Back to the build: Time 3hrs (inventory and misc.). Total 3hrs
 
As per the "little book" I have acquired a piece of 5/8' composite particle board to make a keel jig from my local Home Depot. I found it in the scrap pile ( 51 cents). The good folks at HD even cut it down to a reasonable 12" by 24" for no additional charge. I am currently using it to take a very slight warp out of the main keel section (Part# 15). I noticed it did not lie perfectly flat while doing my inventory, which BTW is not complete. I wetted one side of the part to introduce some moisture and it currently sits on a glass table top sandwiched between the composite board. I threw a dumbbell on top for good measure. I will check it in a day or two.
 
The inventory: Aside from the slight warp in the keel there was some minor damage to one of the ships boats (repaired) and another seems to have some staining or discoloration in the wood. It can be seen in the upper left of the first picture in the original post. My plan for now is to see if it can be sanded or bleached out.
 
Accounting issues: Corel uses what they call "plate numbers" (the number assigned to the part on the plan) which referances a list in the 'Little Book" to identify parts . Using this to do an inventory has proved to be a bit of a challenge. Problems occur when the same "raw" wood is used by multiple parts. An example would be Plate# 101 Vertical Strake and #105 Port-post. It is the same wood but referanced as another plate number in the list. They do share a part number "LS 229"  found in a right hand column which is how I confirmed this. My plan is to inventory everything, see what is missing, and then try to find it on the list already counted as something esle.  I have also not yet found anything documenting quantities. All the major parts are all there as per the plans and judging buy the counts I am getting there seems to be plenty of everything else. If I find the time I will post an inventory list. Please do not hold me to this as there are 400 plate numbers.
 
Back to the count

Ahoy Mates
 
Mike: Thx, I am hoping this will all be gone soon except the experience I gain from it 
 
Dragzz: Please delete some messages, your mailbox is full  
 
Back to the build 
 
Just posting this so I don't forget it. I use my log as a notebook of sorts 
 
While waiting for a plank to soak I decided to address a small gap in the bow planking. It really was not necessary but more of an experiment.  I really should have been doing treenails. Originally my plan for these was to use the sawdust and PVA trick when I did my final sanding
 
They are just little 1/32 by 3/32 scraps sanded into a wedge. Flat tree nails. If I have another opportunity to try this I think I might use a wider piece and put it so the grain follows the planks. The edge grain looks a little dark to do this on any final planking. I have not sanded it yet and it is still wet too. I just snipped them off with my plastic sprue cutters 

Ahoy Mates
 
Thx for the likes and comments 
 
Neptune: Welcome aboard; I see that you have build this kit. Your company and comments are most appreciated 
 
Nigel: Thank you. I do agree that spiling would actually be much easier here but I have this whole OOB thing going on for this build. I am contemplating gluing two of the kit supplied pieces of planking together and then spiling that. On a side note I have just found the kit supplied wheel. That is going to be a big problem. 
 
Mark: I am hell bent on correcting the kinkering and not sanding it out. 
 
Sjors: Always a pleasure. I am a persistent "bass turd". That is my real strength. I am still working on the "skill" thing. 
 
Back to the build 
 
I am posting this for anyone who might be using my log as some sort of reference for their build.
 
There seems to be a point where the planks need to transition around what I would call the hip of the stern. (We could talk jeans here).  I am getting a lot of kinkering: More then what would be safe to sand out even if I were to sand ..
 
What I have found is that after forming and installing these planks individually that I can come back to them and reform them again but now as a group.
 
First I clamp a wet paper towel to the area and let that sit for 15 to 20 minutes. I re-wet the towel, then nuke the area with my heat gun. When I start to smell glue I start making adjustments. By only wetting and heating certain areas and leaving others bonded I have found that I can now form sections instead of just planks to create a smoother surface.  I did not take any "before" images but if you look at my last post, the image of the stern shows the start of the klinkering (its out of focus) which got really bad on the final plank for this belt.  . 
 
The image shows how I used a piece of kit wood to "persuade" these planks as a group. This set up was nuked with the heat gun. The wood traverses four planks which all had some klinkering to a degree. It took multiple sessions applying pressure and heat in different areas to get this wood to lie as it does in the final image 
 
 
 

Ahoy Mates
 
Augie: And it will be without the plans tonight 
 
Dragzz: Fun is the only reason to be here. Thx for the pics too. I would have never thought that planking the bow would have been the solution. Just shows what I "don't know"  
 
 
Back to the Build 
 
Well with one mystery solved, and thank you Mark for making the effort: the shipyard is knee deep in planking. I have completed my first "drop" plank and while it did come out "OK" I do not think it would be appropriate on the finished planking. I will repeat this on the Port side only maintain a consistency in my problems planking.
 
The drop plank did relieve some of the klinkering but after installing it I see that I am over the line on bulkhead 1 and under on B2. I had this same problem on the Ratt. I have also re-re-re done the measurements and belts. I have way too many of these tick strips, they are like Tribbles in my shipyard, and still do not get this belt thing. Its so bad I had to switch to colored pencils. Thankfully this is just the first planking. My new brainstorm is to finish this belt which now only consists of 5 planks, i have 4 belts now 5,6,6,6, then redo the belts one more time. This time only doing 3 bulkheads 4,7, and 10;  dividing them into three equal belts then do the battens marking the other bulkheads as per how the battens lie. 
 
I am very happy with my planking so far. I work each plank as its own small project. My order is to taper the wood, cut it just a bit longer, soak it and then use "brute strength and superstition" to make them comply. With my little trick to soften them kinking planks has become a thing of the past. After they dry i use sandpaper to fit them. I only work one side so I always have one true side. I do work the true side of the plank above the new plan when i think i can get some more room. I have made up some special sanding sticks to alter already installed planks. I am also only using the Original Titebond which is not waterproof. This allows me to go back and make small adjustments after installation to reduce my final sanding. By adding water and a little heat; the glue debonds allowing me to make corrections. I might be getting a little too carried away with this.
 
I am however slightly concerned about the plethora of seams in the bow and whether this will have any negative effects on the final planking.  I might just tree nail the crap out of the bow just to be safe. The stern is still a mystery but it does look like it is coming along. Only time will tell here. I am trying to make sure the wood has full contact with the fillers because it looks like I will be sanding the planks pretty thin to allow for a stern post. 
 
Until next time. Thanks for stopping by and comments are always welcome. 

Ahoy Mates
 
Bob: What a pleasure to have you aboard. As I think I have told you before but will mention it again. It was your original Bluenose log that got me interested in this hobby. It has a greatly influenced me on how I post my builds. So there you have it. We can all blame Bob 
 
Back to the build 
 
Ahh the mystery deepens 
 
Planking is proceeding well. I am half way through my first belt. Without jinxing myself I would like to report that planking Corel's Victory so far has been an absolute pleasure. The supplied wood for the first layer bends like licorice after soaking for 15 minutes and then being worked over my PVC and pill bottle.  
 
Not so pleasurable but more like solving hieroglyphics prior to finding the one ring to rule them all; or was that a stone, has been Corel's instructions. To further exacerbate the mystery of the stern post I bring you this tidbit I found last night. 
 
On the very bottom of this image on plate 5, it shows #15 which is the rear and mid section of the plywood keel. Covering this on three sides is a piece of #33 which you can see also covers the lower half of the hull. It is the finish planking which means that the plywood keel is to be covered. While you might think this is a good thing, and it does solve the stern post debacle it now becomes a not so good thing in the bow. I have not yet found any images showing the large expanse of wood representing the bow/cut water of the plywood keel covered; nor does the kit include any wood wide enough to achieve this.
 
Either way I will have to take this one step at a time. Thankfully I have a few months to work this out. If anyone wants to spoil my little mystery by exposing the secret, please feel free to use my log. 

Ahoy Mates
 
Thank you for the likes
 
Having your friends "like" what your doing really helps. Especially when your not sure what your doing 
 
Speaking of which 
Back to the build 
 
First I marked the path that the plank wanted to follow. 
 
Then I decided that because I could not subtract wood safely I would use positive numbers and then multiply by -1 
 
I used painters tape to slightly raise areas on the filler and tested with the plank to see how it was affected; paying attention to the any change in direction the tape caused. I would love to say my big brain got it on the first try but I wasn't even close. Anyways I found that by slightly raising the bottom near the bulkhead the plank's preferred course moved in the desired direction. Once this was discovered I very carefully started to sand the area opposite of the tape; again checking with the plank. The pic shows the plank properly positioned although there is still a very slight klinker at the bulkhead it is very close. I may or may not fix this but just let the plank drift up to reduce the klinker and then do the final repair when I sand the first planking. 
 
The stern is not going to be so easy. Testing there did not go well at all. Suggestions welcome. I might need to actually add wood to correct this and if this is so I will just plank it "as is" and then lie more planks over those and then sand it back down to the correct shape for the final planking 
 
 

Ahoy Mates
 
Mog: I find myself doing just that "way too much" 
 
Dragzz: I thought so too "until today' 
 
 
Back to the build 
 
DANGER WILL ROBERTSON 
 
Well it seems that I may have made a blunder here on my build. I have been postulating these rear fillers for many hours. Something was just not right. Well today I think I may have found that thing that's 'not right" 
 
The keel on Corel's Vic is 5mm wide. This is the same thickness as the material for the rudder. Hummmm
 
So if I add the planking thickness to this equation it means I must sand it to zero to meet the rudder. Even so where is the Keel post: there is no kit supplied part. Or does the planking terminates before the keel post and the keel is the post. It is my belief that the rear fillers on this "KIT" should have been shaped similar to the bow fillers where as "all the planks turn into the hull" and terminate as they come back to the keel the same as they do in the bow. Fake planks are then scribed into the keel along with the keel post. It all makes sense. Although one could argue that that is not correct practice in real shipbuilding as the planks on the lower half should lie against the hull up to a point and then turn into the keel this is a kit and kits are always full of compromises. I do believe this being one Corel choose here. Trust me i have looked at this from all angles including the one through my drink. It has been a very upsetting day in the shipyard.   
 
What to do: 
 
After much thought I have decided to have the kit try and stop my Tundra tires from rolling forward. After failing that I will repeat the test in reverse.
 
"lol" Just kidding but it did cross my mind and make me laugh. 
 
I think i can fix this by planking the hull as it would be on a real ship or most other kits (NOT WHAT COREL INTENDED) and then heavily fairing the planking into the stern post/keel end.  Next  remove/cut away any planking that covers the space that would be occupied by the stern post; insuring any planking here has been been sanded down to 1 mm. This would be followed by a complete "redo" of the keel post and entire exposed keel stem to stern with a 1mm walnut veneer. I might have to taper the end of the keel a bit where I remove the planking before applying the veneer so it meets the Rudder at the correct thickness. Or I could do the Rudder in slightly thicker wood. I could also do something nice here with the bow by using multiple pieces. .  
 
 
 If you have a better solution I would love to hear it. 
 
Either way unless I hear a better plan I will start planking the lower half of the hull to confirm my plan.
 
My fall back will be copper and paint 
 
There is always a way 
 
If I were to start this kit anew I might cut a rabbet where the stern post is or really just do it Corel's way which would not look bad
 
Lets see how my idea works. 
 
EDIT: My original thinking was wrong regarding that all the planking  should terminate at the filler: Please disregard it. I am terminating the first layer here. Read on  

Ahoy Mates
 
Dragzz: your a better man then I. Not knowing what I am doing; I did not have the courage to bring out those guns. 
 
GuntherMT: Welcome to my build. This would not be the first time I did something backwards on my build. 
 
Bill Hime: Ditto on my last reply and thx for stopping by. I am primarily using 320 and 400 sandpaper, I have some 150 but use it sparingly. I don't trust myself with anything stronger. Slow would be an understatement. 
 
Back to the build: 
 
Well in typical JPett fashion we are totally over thinking these fillers ' I think"
 
 After spending over 2 hours with my little battens and sandpaper I have made yet another change. It seems to me that the "tuck' of this filler should allow for the planking to lie flat up to the point where the thickness of the two layers of planking matches the space between the filler and the stern. Only here it should curve in to meet the keel. Should it do so where the gap exceeds the space taken by the planking there would be a space on the finished hull.. Like I said, it is entirely possible that there is way to much thinking going on here and the reason for this post 
 
Please let me know what you think
 
Note for those following: I sanded the filler to match the stern on the top where the planking curves into the stern and enough so that the two layers planking will fit without having to sand one layer down to nothing.  See the pic in my previous post. This required me to take quite a bit off the filler. I believe that this could have been prevented by having bulkhead 14 positioned slightly more forward as i see this could have been done on my build. There is some space and I would recommend using the stern fillers to position this bulkhead
 
In the pic I have highlighted the "tuck" You can see that on one side where it used to be bring the planks into the stern well before the two marks. The marks show where the thickness of the planking matches the space between the ends of the keel and the filler. On the other side i have raised the position where the planks will still lie flat up to just before this point. 
 
The second image shows my batten and the new path of the planks 
 
The third my "Vic SticK" which is a jig I made using the two layers of planking for the kit. i seem to have developed an obsession with these little jigs. They all have names "lol"  
 
Please feel free to comment, Suggestions are always welcome here and I have no problem with criticism provided it is accompanied with a suggestions. I can always glue some wood back on and consider my time spent learning. 

Ahoy Mates 
 
Thanks for the likes and comments.
 
Mark: Thanks for stopping by, It is a great past time.There was a little too much going on for me at that time. It should always be fun. 
 
Kenneth: "lol" I really had a good laugh in your comment. 
 
Dragzz: Thanks for the help. Your log leads the way . Keep up the great work. 
 
Augie: I am a bit amused by your comment. Please do't tell me you are drinking the Kool Aide Sjors is serving. 
 
Back to the build: 
 
Well there was a mishap in the shipyard which has my first love at anchor. She will be OK but I need to let her dry for a few days. This will also let me formulate my correction.. It seems isopropyl alcohol is not a good choice to remove a misguided dab of paint on a surface coated with WOP over another painted surface, OOPS. Nothing is damaged that some time will not correct but she needs to sit until the chemical reaction stops. The good news is I actually liked one outcome of this so much i might make some additional changes to the finish. Truth be told though, I was looking forward to posting elsewhere today. 
 
But such is the life of a model shipbuilder with two kits . The bow fillers are as done as I think they should be before permanently gluing them on the hull and the final hull fairing. Making them removable worked very well for me. I did have to upgrade the dowel. The toothpick could not handle the two of them. I will give myself a few days to mull this over, and of course look at them a few hundred times to confirm this. For now I am working on the stern fillers. They have also been mounted with a dowel and are now removable. I see another night sleeping with the plans as I try to confirm how to shape them which currently has me baffled.
 
After mounting them I immediately saw a problem, Or I think I do: I am not sure, but there is a 1/16" difference in the top of bulkhead 13 (figures). I am not sure whether I want to just sand it away or put some 1/16" strip wood on the other side and then sand a 1/32 off each side. I confirmed it is the bulkhead. My concern is how much is going on back here and my complete ignorance of "how much is going on back there" . She's got a hell of a booty. My guess is this happened when i fitted the bulkhead. Even if it was Corel I should have caught this when I fitted that bulkhead.  My Bow fillers were asymmetrical out of the box, and I did catch and correct that. I'm learning .  
 
My question is; I do no know if this small amount will really make any difference after two layers of planking.  There is wood soaking as I type this "lol" and because how much is tied to this measurement I do not know. A mock up here is no small project. 
 
What do you guys think as more experienced kit builders.    
 
1) Your overreacting, After its sanded you won't ever see it 
 
2) No, OMG fix it before the world ends, Cats are playing with dogs, it could possibly lead to world peace and solve global warming
 
PS: I touched up the grates. Its amazing what you see in your pics. 

Ahoy Mates
 
Lawrence: Welcome aboard, I draw much inspiration from your log. Thanks for posting
 
Back to the build: Time 16hr (Bulkheads and Deck) Total 30hrs
 
The adventure continues: After making the call on the gunports I re-re-re-read the "little book' and found this. "Therefore, re-move some small portion of the frames whose profile coincides exactly with the gunports (frames No. 2, 4, 6, 7, and 13); in this case the frame itself acts as a support for the half barrels No. 174." Now this statement is the last sentence before the next paragraph on planking. It also doesn't mention that gun port at B7 uses a cannon and not the half barrel. I would love to hear from others as to how they handled the removal of B7 on the gun deck which can be seen and if you followed the instructions has already been planked.
 
I can see I will be deviating
 
I installed the first gun deck supplied with the kit. Having never done one of these plywood pre decks before, it turned into quite a learning experience. It seems ply wood does not like to be bent in two directions at the same time. The whole kit deck/bulkhead thing has in the past been difficult for me: I once sanded a deck flat. I took measurements but because Corel only supplies you with a waterline draft  that shows this deck height I decided to take my measurements from the differences. I measured the plans and determined how much higher or lower the deck line was at bulkheads 4-9. Then I measured/marked my bible bulkhead using the deck and used the differences from the plans to mark the rest. Then I refitted the deck and made my adjustments so the deck would lie at each mark. Because I wanted my measurements to be accurate I bolted down the hull. This worked really well for me. The idea came to me after a few beers.
 
I can not overstate how much better it is to just tack things. I am starting to believe full on gluing things was an amateur mistake. Once I started to glue the deck, again only tacking it, the sweep of the hull that the deck need to follow started to fight the crown of the deck. A large concentric pin was used it to apply pressure/mediate the edges making sure the deck edge remained at the correct mark. Because I only tacked the deck in the center this was easy. I also applied some water with a damp rag to get the deck to relax after everything was tacked. It seems a little stressed.
 
With the deck in I started putting in all the fillets to permanently bond all the parts. I start with a very thinned PVA, a small paint brush and let capillary action suck the mixture into the joints. Then I go back with a stronger mix and do the seam. I learned this building RC aircraft where glue was weight and major repairs were just a part of the hobby. These glue joints are not as strong as when you glue both pieces and then apply pressure but this is also not the Queen Mary. Those joints are stronger then the wood, mine are not and are much easier to undo.
 
For anyone following this build there is a relationship between the deck and the bulkheads. Putting in the bulkheads without using the deck as a guide will most likely mean the deck slots will have to be widened which will then require fillers to allow you to glue to, to get the deck height correct at the gunnels. I was able to make some changes because I only "tacked" everything but still needed three 1/32nd shims. The curve of my deck at B4 is slight listing to starboard and I believe the crown on B 7 is a little flatter then it should be. To me these are very minor and will only be noticed now and by me. You might be able to see the slight list in the pic "Bulkheads 6"
 
Next will be the stern and the fillers. There is some chatter on the net regarding the stern bulkheads on the Corel kit so some research will be needed. My hold downs currently prevent the installation of B16, the stern, and the bow fillers so a slight change will be needed there.
 
Let me know what you think. All comments welcome. Especially if it is in regards to the B7 cannon debacle

Ahoy Mates
 
Augie. Sure would make any redos a lot easier
 
Back to the build: Time 2hr (Bulkheads) Total 14hrs
 
Boy does time fly
 
First I sanded down the stern piece to match the keel. I experimented before removing the excess by rounding this small section to see how it would look. Wow, did it look bad. I decided I would address this at a later date, removed the wood and moved on to the bulkheads in the back. Why Ferit: Why "lol"
 
After tacking a few bulkheads ( 12,11,10,9, 8) progress ground to a halt. Thankfully they are only tacked with PVA. My plan was to tack everything and then once it all was good to go; go back and glue everything using fillets of thinned PVC. I also decided to tack the bulkheads in with pretty much everything else in place. Took me a while to come up with a working combination. I did have to remove one bulkhead to accommodate the square but felt doing them any other way could lead to small discrepancies that might negatively impact my previous work
 
As a test and because it did not line up "perfectly" I already removed B8.
 
My problem and the cause of the shutdown. The termination of planking as of right now makes no sense. To my knowledge the instructions and even some pics I have seen do not show a rabbet, but in true Corel form there is an image of what could be one in the plates
 
Anyone having any information on this, your two cents would be greatly appreciated.
 
Standing by