JPett

Ahoy B.E.
 
Very nice build, thanks for sharing
 
Your work on the sails is most impressive. Might I ask what material was used and a few more details, if possible.

Ahoy Scott
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/45-rattlesnake-by-jpett-model-shipways-ms2028-scale-164th/?p=439
 
I would not recommend doing this. I am confident that I will finish this but bending the fashion piece has led to a lot of work. When my skills are up to it I will attempt it and post.

Ahoy Scott
 
The bend is almost unperceivable and comes from the slight angle carved into the transom filler. Because the tiller goes through a cut out ahead of the curve I do not see it causing a problem from my house.
 
Just a warning. I made a small change to my transom and am still paying for it. Make sure you understand all the consequences of any changes to your model. As a newbie I have learned our mistakes alone usually leave us with enough extra work and avoid adding to that list.

Ahoy Scott
 
From you picture it looks like all you need to do is lower "K" and maybe "L" or raise "J". Look at the deck height at center of the bulkhead where it meets the keel deck height. "K" even looks high on the rabbet.
 
As I said before "get the decks right". They are the hardest to sand or change so avoid work there if possible. Easier to shim or sand the bulkheads on the hull side.  You can use the basswood left over from the keel as a template for the sweep of the decks too 
 
Adjusting/sanding the slots for the bulkheads to change their height on the keel is easily undone: so go there first. Always try to make adjustments over a few bulkheads if possible too, not one drastic adjustment to one, unless of course it is obviously off.
 
Fear not as MS will replace anything free of charge.
 
PS: There does seem to be a small issue with this kit but as far as I can tell this "is model shipbuilding". Everything is an adjustment to get the wood to fit the plans. It is not like plastic and this adventure is only a precursor to what follows. For anyone who really wants to learn how to build wooden ships, I feel this kit is hard to beat. You are doing a great job so far and have shown you have the right attitude. Take your time and check before committing to glue. It is definably a hobby for those who like to solve problems.

Ahoy Scott
 
It looks good. Any problems I see can be easily fixed with some shims or sand paper
 
As for "C"; I would just make the deck work and then shim and sand the rest to get her in line using the battens. You can use the battens to confirm the deck too.
 
To be sure there are no problems with the keel slots I would suggest you flip some of the bulkheads as a test/double check before proceeding

Ahoy Scott
 
I marked my waterline just as you did and used it to align the bulkheads. Small discrepancies in my work along with the issue in the kit caused all of my bulkheads to be off somewhere. Had I made sure at least one area was correct it would have been much easier. I am not saying "not" to mark the water line but to use in conjunction with the deck. It is best to shoot for having one area that is right to measure from so you can easily correct problems elsewhere. I see in your picture that "C" is a little high and "F" a little low. This is fine and easily fixed provided "C" isn't also high on the deck side with "F" being low there too.
 
Don't worry about the angle. I took measurements. transferred them to the bulkheads, connected the dots and sanded. The correct angle is created when you sand to the mark and is also not constant but changes throughout the bulkhead. Other then "A" and "M" I would suggest sanding the others just a tad less. You resand them to fair the hull later anyways. "A" and "M" are helpful for fitting the fillers.
 
The bulkheads either not reaching the rabbet or running it over is a different issue but a very minor one and easily fixed.
 
Yes the battens are pieces of wood that run down the length of the hull. They are very useful, I highly recommend you spend some time with them. They saved my hull from extinction. Use the 1/32nd wood as it will bend like the soaked 1/16". There is a section in the manual regarding them. It is for planking but I also found them useful for framing too. or should that be bulkheading
 
PS: Leaving the cutouts in is a good idea but I would still consider reinforcing them. Having one snap when your half way through the deck planking would really not be a good thing. Another reason why I hacked mine out

Ahoy Scott
 
Nice update.
 
Just so proper credit is received; Zev and Eric confirmed that the bulkheads were not cut correctly. I only brought the fact that there was a problem to their attention. I will try to link your post in my log so anyone who reads mine can see your fix
 
As for the water line I did mark it and it caused me a lot of confusion due to the issue with the bulkheads which were unknown to me at the time. I would recommend that you use the decks as home base and then make any corrections to the bulkheads by either adding or subtracting wood. The decks are much harder to correct and a good reference for the rest of the build.
 
I see that you have not yet faired the bulkheads. Some have said not to: but because your fillers will be using the faired side I would consider doing at least A and M. I would also pin temporary  battens to the bulkheads before gluing using the 1/32nd wood to check the hull before committing.
 
I also removed the upper deck supports on all my bulkheads. I lost track of the breakage but it was in the twenties.  I would not recommend this but I would say adding another piece of wood that runs cross grained to strengthen them would not be a bad idea. The 1/16 supplied planking would be a good choice.  If you do be sure to put it on the "hidden" side.
 
Chuck brought this to my attention. Mount your bulkheads starting from the center. This way any error is not amplified throughout the hull.
 
:pirate41:
Last but not least. Will you be using a building board.

Ahoy Mates
 
This being my 1000th post I would like to thank all of you here at MSW who make this site what it is. I would not be here without you. 
 
:) Thank you :)
 
 
Mark:  We both know; "As always" would be me redoing it at least three times. 
 
Augie: I was inspired by a pear tree of all things. Or what's left of one on someone's deck, thx
 
Dragzz; She is my first;
 
Martin: I really like your choice of words. 
 
Sam: Sadly the Beaminator was lost. RIP
 
Popeye. I am now using concentric pins to push Evergreen strip styrene (.100 x .250) against the planks; it works even better 
 
JSGerson: Byrne's saws for everyone "lol" 
 
Scott: For a quite while there; you were not alone 
 
 
Back to the build;
 
Ahhh! The joys of learning. I am hoping that if anything my kit shows that a cavalcade of errors can still look pretty good.  Criticisms aside I am very happy with my results here; warts and all.  I will apologize right off for the length of this post. Yea its a bit of a whopper "I know" but it is my 1K. I will make sure 2K is worst "lol"  That, hopefully will be a rigging post. 
 
For anyone wishing to do their deck in this matter I will share here what I learned. 
 
First; this takes a bit more time to do then just marking the planks. Although it is more work, My personal opinion is paper used to simulate caulk on the deck looks much better, making it worth the extra effort. It's not really much harder either: It is a few more steps. 
 
Each plank needs to be checked and fitted as you would with or without the paper. The convex curve of the deck will cause uneven seams if planks retained their 90 degree cuts. Uneven seams really stand out with paper caulking making "seam management" slightly more of a concern.  Planks were tested fitted twice. Once before the paper to get their shape and then again after the paper was glued on to confirm there would be no fit issues during the final installation. I used a length of styrene plastic and my concentric pins to apply side pressure to install planks. The Beaminator snapped early into the project. The styrene strip is the better way. Fitting the last plank which required paper on both sides was actually much easier then I anticipated (only a few redo's). 
 
All clamping had to be worked out and tested prior to the installation of any planks.  Once a plank goes in there is only a few seconds to position it. The paper tears or deforms as soon as the glue starts to get a hold on it. I used non waterproof PVA so redo's were not difficult; but removing the paper aftermath was a bit messy.  
 
Although it made the paper more prone to tearing or delaminating, I found that moistening the paper on the plank a minute or two before installation really helpful. I am not sure but think it may have softened the glue used to put the paper on (tighter seams were much easier) and it may have prevented the glue used during the installation from bonding to the paper right away. My though is that the dry paper was like a wick. Before I came up with this I was having problems with "bunch ups". A thin layer of paper would separate and then accordion back on itself if the plank was moved seconds after being placed. I only put glue on the wood surfaces too, never the paper itself. Either way, there were less plank installation problems and more seam consistency once this simple trick was employed. 
 
 I thought I did well with the line of the planks, I did rip out my first attempt for this reason: Butt joints on the other hand are still a problem for me. Hopefully once the deck is populated my errors here will not be as noticeable. Thankfully the deck is pretty busy. I think I will try marking the bulkhead centers on my next outing. I recall having this same problem during hull planking. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I still have the poop and forecastle to do. My filler planks are slightly asymmetrical near the bow too and I attribute this to my earlier hull shaping debacle. I knew this going in and why I installed the basswood edge filler.  
 
Keeping on with complaints; I am not 100% sure about my scarf joints. They were made by edge gluing planks. I found cutting off and using a section of the same plank the easiest way to maintain color/grain and hide this cheat. I did not have any wider stock. Martin: Use thin super glue next time, its waterproof and you can soak them afterwards. To me my scarf joints just seem big and out of scale compared to the rest of the deck. Thankfully they are placed where no one should see them. I might try "hooked scarp joints" on the fore deck.  Not sure if my skills are up to this task. Time will tell. 
 
To keep with full disclosure; I sanded a soft spot on my deck. Its not horrible but I can see I still have not yet learned to control my obsession with sanding.  I also still need to work on my wood selection. There's a knot where a treenail should be and some unattractive color in other pieces that I could have easily not used. I'm learning and the knot is now a treenail. 
 
On the bright side; I added a new type of treenail (0.020 brass rod), I got the brass rod idea after seeing NMBrook's work on his decks grates and Piperjoe's Skipjack.  I developed a simple trick to better align my treenails too; this really was a very productive project. I always used a pin to make a starter hole for my drill/pin vise. But now I only do a very small "prick" first using a ruler for the spacing. Then I come back, and if necessary, angle the pin to move or fudge the hole as needed to create the final larger starter hole. I used to try to do this correction with my pinvise when I drilled the hole but finding you are off your mark with the hole already drilled isn't very productive. The brass also let me use a smaller diameter treenail then I would have been able to achieve with wood. I actually used my hobby hammer to drive some of them home. I really do love treenails. 
 
In more ways then one, for me; this post is a milestone. Thanks everyone for stopping by, your help, comments, and your likes. 
You guys ROCK.  
 
PS: My favorite view is of the deck seams through the ports.  I will try to preserve this as I litter the deck.
 

Ahoy Kenny  
 
That will work; but just realize that you have a gunport there.
 
As far as directions go the ME ones are really good.. It is best to work from the plans 90% of the time and use the manual as a supplement.  It took me a while to get this. I think if they wrote out all the instructions it would be a 5 volume set and no one would read it. Everything is there in the plans, you just have to learn to read them. 

Ahoy Kenny
 
Realize that you will be trimming the sides of the planks to prevent a gap as you cover this convex shape
 
 This means the side of the plank contacting the hull will not be the same width on the inside as it is on the outside. The planks are also 3/16 which is really  4.7mm and times 17 comes to 79.5 mm 
 
Another way to look at it is that by adding planks you will be increasing the Outside Diameter by the thickness of the planking. 
 
When you add the thickness of the wood to your 1/4 circle ( if you look at it this way) your 75mm OD now becomes a 78mm OD when measured with the planks installed: So you are actually closer then you think 
 
I only know this because I was here too  .  

Ahoy, Mates
 
Mark: Welcome aboard and thanks for looking into the emoticons.
 
Back to the build
 
After many hours of playing in the shipyard, the day had finally arrived. I should note that I would not have ever come to this point in my build had it not been for all the help I received here at MSW. Thank you all
 
I carefully took my measurements, checking them multiple times and with great care shaped, bent and installed my first strakes
 
LOL, Then I ripped them off
 
After reviewing my situation and rethinking what I had just done, I re-installed the first strakes.
 
LOL, Then I pulled out the RC heat gun and fudged them around for about an hour.

The filler blocks were next. I used a scroll saw to first cut out the blocks, finishing them with a carving knife and lots of sandpaper. I found that gluing sand paper to a piece of 1 inch PVC made contouring the curve in the transom much easier.
 
I superimposed scanned images of the plans on pictures of my work using Photoshop to check my work.

The Next step was to fair the hull or as the instructions refer to it as "Shaping the Bulkheads. Needless to say and there was great fun on the forum as I screwed this up in royal fashion.

With a heavy hand and a sanding block I flattened my deck. It took me a while to come up with a fix for this but in the end I found that I could taper strips of wood and glue them on top of the bulkheads to correct the problem. The repair ended up being easy.
 
At this time, I had thought that I did a fairly decent job of fairing the hull. Later in my build, I found this not to be the case. My mistake: Not making sure that battens when placed on the hull contacted each bulkhead and ran the length to the hull following a path similar to the planks. I was new and in a hurry to get to the next step (the real mistake here). In hindsight I should have spent considerably more time on this step.  I ended up spending twice the time correcting my mistakes when I laid out the belts to prepare for planking. One of the nice things about wood is "almost anything is repairable". The only penalty is time.

Ahoy Kimberly
 
Congratz on completing another kit
 
As for your Santa Maria, I would suggest that you consider doing some research. Develop a plan that will result in the model you want. Some of us will spend a months or even years on a model. For me it does two things. The models come out more to my liking and my house does not fill up with them. I still end up giving most of them away.  

Ahoy Kimberly
 
Humbrol paints are excellent. They are preferred by many modelers for brush painting. So for you they would be a good thing. Stay away from the enamels though. Humbrol has a full Acrylic line. http://www.humbrol.com/shop/paints/acrylic-paints/
 
 I love enamel paints and even use them on my wooden ships, but they are harder to use, less forgiving and require petroleum solvents . I would recommend that you stick with the Acrylics for now. Get some acrylic thinner if you don't have it already. It is much better then water to thin the paint. It has chemicals that slow the drying time and help the paint flow or "lay down". HL and M's both sell it.

Ahoy Kimberly
 
For the glue
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXTK9KdRQN4
 
He doesn't mention this. Make sure your fingers are no where near the seam as the glue will run up between your fingers and the part, damaging the part. You can use it for just about everything. Practice on the sprues/trees in your kit. Less is more. It is worth the time to learn to use
 
As for the paint. See if you can match it to one of Testors colors. Tamiya also make hobby paint sold at Hobby Lobby so try them too. Olive brown is just a name. Always match the color, not the name when using another manufacturer .
 
http://www.testors.com/category/136648/Acrylic_Paints
 
http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/ln/72/XF-chart-10ml.pdf
 
 
PS: Kevin is a very good modeler and has a log here
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4011-bismarck-by-kevin-trumpeter-1200/?p=113788
 
It is a plastic kit and I am sure he would love to have you follow his build

Ahoy Kimberly
 
Just thought I would share a few plastic modeling tips.
 
Make sure you wash all the parts before you start the model. I would use one of those plastic storage containers and soak the trees in lukewarm soapy water, never hot as it may warp the parts. Give them a little love with an old toothbrush and a final rinse in cold water. This removes the release agent used by the manufacturer to get the trees out of the mold and makes painting much easier. The tub prevents you from loosing a part down the drain.
 
If you are not already, learn to use Tamiya Extra thin cement http://store.spruebrothers.com/product_p/tam87038xxx.htm
You just put the parts together, then touch a seam with the little brush/applicator which is in the cap. It is the bomb, especially for tiny parts
 
I know Hobby Lobby sells it, Michaels might too. Don't forget about the 40% off coupon either

Ahoy Kimberly
 
Cast my vote for the Pinta
 
But
 
Revell also makes the Santa Maria
 
There is a nice build log here
 
http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/7/t/151638.aspx?sort=DESC
 
Squadron sells it (excellent company)
 
http://www.squadron.com/1-90-Revell-Germany-Columbus-Ship-Santa-Maria-p/rg5405.htm

Ahoy Kimberly
 
I am not sure I would use that formula to determine how big the parts are.  On a wooden ship where the modeler will be creating most of the detail this is true. For plastic kits however, it is the skill level that will determine the number of parts, the complexity of assemblies and whether or not the kit will include many small parts.
 
Google the kits you are interested. There are many reviews that show the included parts

Ahoy Kimberly
 
First and foremost "Congratz" on completing your first ship. That is an accomplishment you should be proud of
 
Second: I support your feelings regarding your latest endeavor. If this kit overwhelms you "which kits can do" put it away for another day. Come back to it when you feel ready or use it for practice. Your log will still be here, well provided MSW doesn't hit another iceberg.
 
Third: If you want tips on painting start a thread here on MSW. Something simple like "Looking for painting tips for plastic model ships" here
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/forum/21-painting-finishing-and-weathering-products-and-techniques/
 
Many of us are plastic or ex plastic modelers who would love to share their knowledge with others. Painting plastic can be very simple or extremely complex. I recommend starting with simple.  I for one could bog down your entire build log with tips on painting plastic; which I would prefer not to do. There are also hundreds of YouTube videos on plastic model painting.
 
Lastly. I would consider a super easy kit to just develop your painting skills. You could finish it in a few days but the knowledge you will acquire will only make your next kit that much better.
 
Painting plastic model kits is an easy skill to learn but one that can take years to master. 

Mike,
It's nothing that can't be remedied.
I would wipe the surface over with mineral spirits every 12 hours for a couple of days. As it evaporates it will dry out some of the oil. When the whole thing is dry, then add very light coats of Tung oil until you have the surface you require. 
 
Dan.

Hi Kenneth -- This is a nice build you have going.  If you're still wondering how to do the rope coils, here's the simple trick:  you just soak a length of rope in diluted white glue, then make the coil.  It should take the shape you want while wet fairly easily (you might use tweezers to keep your fingers clean), and then it'll keep that shape when dry. 
 
Cheers,
 
Martin

Hi,
I use two types of support for planking.
Foto 1 This is simplest way for support hull during planking
            Can be difficult to use with some kit buildings because they have integral deck as part of structure.
Foto2 - 4 Revolving jig for hull planking
               For models scrap built is possible easily apply temporary brackets on bow and stern part of keel for attach to jig.
 
Tadeusz
.. 

Ahoy Modeler
 
It worked great for me
 
I guess it depends on when you do your deck

Ahoy Brett
 
I started with a Panavise. I owned it, but they sell for les then 30 dollars at Frys. It worked great. I have since purchased an Amati Keel Clamp which while more then twice the price is very nice.
 
I don't know how some of these guys planked without the keel securely mounted but I guess they proved it is possible