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    Central Virginia
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    Aviation(pilot) Fishing, Reading, Writing,Painting Drawing, Kayaking Cooking.

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  1. I was sidetracked by a number of other projects Louie. It will be back on the table shortly and I will post an update.
  2. For those that are (still) interested, I received a couple of photos of Boston's new home. The client is an orthopedic surgeon and a keen woodworker. (No surprise really as he uses similar tools for both!) He built the exquisite table and base for the model as I was on the final stages of construction and finally married the two together last week. As you can see, the table is stunning. What can't be seen in the photos is the top of the baseboard is beautiful quartered and inlaid burr walnut panels. The Boston is somewhat overpowered by the reflections but I think it le
  3. I'm afraid I don't have any photos Marc. I just drew out the sail plan including stitching patterns etc. to about a third or half the actual length on the tissue using brown colored pencil. The larger the sail the more length I included up to about half the length for the mainsail. The tissue was then stretched across an open cardboard box and washed with a dilute mix of yellow/brown ochre acrylic paint to stain it. Then when it dried, a wash of dilute white wood glue to seal it. When dry, cut out the sail with a scissors and tie to yard. wet with a spray of water which will make t
  4. I used silkspan for my 'Boston' sails. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12369-frigate-boston-by-overdale/page-4 Very easy to fold and probably the most convincing material available for smaller scales. Dan.
  5. Amen to that Chuck. I remember restoring a whaleship model from the 1920's that had been heavily sprayed with varnish/lacquer over decades. A few lines had detached and it look a fairly simple fix but some sort of chemical reaction had taken place and virtually every other line I touched was so brittle it crumbled if I so much as looked at it. I would also advocate the use of beeswax on line as it does offer some natural protection as well as keeping the 'fuzziness' at bay. Dan.
  6. If this were my model I would drill out the filled holes, scrape it down and refill with a lighter filler. Dan.
  7. Interesting to see the lavish use of pen and ink for the skylights and doors. Not seen that much these days. It's very effective but requires a steady hand. I suspect a lot of builders back then were proficient draughtsmen too and were more familiar with lining pens etc.
  8. Temporarily added the mast and bowsprit. Fitted framing on the rudder guards. Also fitted the shroud rails. Will give everything a coat of acrylic varnish shortly and then add the weathering 'wash'. Then paint all the rails etc. black.
  9. I had to 'antique' a ship model for a TV company a few years ago. After much experimenting we discovered the most effective results were with spaying the whole model with well thinned down wood stain (dark oak). The trick was not to spray regularly as if you were trying to paint it, but to use more random passes gradually building up the color to the level of age you want. It doesn't require a lot and is very effective. (on TV anyway) Dan.
  10. I am quite old, but I'm not THAT old..! :0) Glad you like it. Dan.
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