Blue Ensign

Windlass is going to take a while.  These parts are very small for my giant and clumsy hands. 
 

 

 
Here is the main hatch grating before final finish sanding.
 

Another few items completed in the waist. I've made and installed the hatch, the barricade and the two ladders.The hatch has a boxwood coaming and uses the kit laser cut grating. The barricade is made up from boxwood posts and the laser cut cross piece from the kit. Using the kit part simplified things considerably, because it has the square holes for the posts cut in it. I chose to paint this assembly black and pinned and glued it to the deck. The ladders are boxwood. 
 
This completes the work in the waist, with the exception of the waist rails which are very fragile and will be left for a later time. I'm now working on the quarter deck area, doing the limited deck planking and the bulwark planking.
 
Bob

Hi Martin, I used the kit gratings.
 
Once I had got the round in the head ledges I was happy with I inserted the made up grating and and simply sanded it from the centre each side to match.
 
Here's a link to how the finished one for the Fore hatch looked.
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/332-hms-pegasus-by-blue-ensign-victory-models-enhancing-the-kit-a-build-log-of-sorts/page-2
 
It doesn't really matter that it is too thick  because once in place it doesn't show.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.

Hi Martin, I used 5mm starting depth for the head ledges and 3mm for the coamings as I recall; it was a conscious decision as I wanted to achieve a visible curve in the gratings without making them too thin on the outer edges which would create problems with them breaking up. The grating sit on a 1mm square ledge glued around the inside of the ledges/coamings; the head ledges were rounded down to meet the coamings and the gratings now in place were carefully sanded down to meet the round in the ledges. I think the head ledges finished up at around 3.5mm at the central point.
 
If you intend to have open hatches it is worthwhile gluing some square stock beneath the deck openings to represent the  hatch framings and give a little depth to the hatches.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.

Hi Martin, I used 5mm starting depth for the head ledges and 3mm for the coamings as I recall; it was a conscious decision as I wanted to achieve a visible curve in the gratings without making them too thin on the outer edges which would create problems with them breaking up. The grating sit on a 1mm square ledge glued around the inside of the ledges/coamings; the head ledges were rounded down to meet the coamings and the gratings now in place were carefully sanded down to meet the round in the ledges. I think the head ledges finished up at around 3.5mm at the central point.
 
If you intend to have open hatches it is worthwhile gluing some square stock beneath the deck openings to represent the  hatch framings and give a little depth to the hatches.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.

Lovely work Grant, a mini masterpiece
 
B.E.

So I remade the end after the other one broke and was too thick.  Still needs a bit of shaping but it lines up pretty well for planking (if I decide to plank there)
 

Glued pieces back together.  Thinner than before but still a bit thick.  I may redo this.  Will think about this today.
 

So I took a pice off the end of the frame blank and then shaped it roughly.
 

 
After filing cutouts into it it seems to fit reasonably well.
 

 
I need to thin it out a bit as it seems too think compared to the other beams.
 

Ship's Boats continued:
 
Not a lot of time in the shipyard this weekend, but a little progress to report.  I've been working on the gratings for the Pinnace.  These are made from 1/32" x1/32" Boxwood stock that Jeff Hayes (Hobbymill) very kindly milled for me with notches, so that task was made a lot easier (thanks Jeff ).  The gratings are quite a tricky shape, especially the stern grating.  They are framed in in Pear wood of the same dimensions.  I also made up a small bow deck, that will go in front of the foremost thwart.  This was made from the same stock as the footwaling. 
 
I've also been furthering my quest for improved photography....
 
Here's a few pics of the parts:
 

 
And here's the "fingernail shot" to show the size of the bow grating:
 

 
This shows the two gratings loosely in place, with the monster hand for overall scale:
 

 
And here's an overall shot with all parts in place:
 

 
I've also prepared the stock for the thwarts.  These will be made from Pear wood trimmed with Boxwood (the opposite colour combo to the gratings), much the same as I did with the Launch.  However, I decided that I'd better paint the exterior of the hull before moving on to fitting out the interior any further.  At this stage, I've just applied a coat of white Gesso as an undercoat.  I've gotta say, I've become a big fan of this stuff - it makes subsequent coats of paint go on a whole lot easier.  More pics once painting is complete - hopefully by next weekend.

Nice idea to produce the Violin blocks Nils, well thought out.
 
B.E.

Nice job on the spectacle plate Ian, I look forward to seeing the results of your chainmaking.
 
B.E.

Always a pleasure to read your log Kester, and enjoy the photo updates of your fine little Sherbourne.  
 
B.E.

Well the bow bits and pieces are all but finished. There is some minor touching up to do. 
 
I found that the side of the forward grating needed very thin pieces of strip to enable the top headrail to remain flush without pressure. The first couple of photos show this.
 

 

 
Here  the first headrail is being glued into place.
 

 
The catheads are dry-fitted at the moment as are the two posts (whatever they're called) that fit beside the bowsprit - also dry -fitted. While doing all of this, I couldn't resist dry-fitting the figurehead to see what it all looks like.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
I just realised that I haven't put the little crowns on the ends of the catheads - so there's another small job.  I noticed too, a couple of spelling mistakes in my last post, so with that confession, my concience is now clear.
 

 
 
 
 
 

Before moving on to the yard strops, there were one or two problems to sort out. The crew figure mentioned in my last post (I’m calling him the bosun – since he has an official-looking hat, now with a badge) has been finished and positioned – and is in the act of hauling taught the fall of the larboard running backstay. This was left hanging in my last post. One problem I had here was in fixing the line to his hands, there being no slot or hole in them for the rope, which would certainly have made the operation a whole lot easier – manufacturers please take note! I therefore cut the line into three and attempted to glue the lengths in their respective positions whilst the figure was off the model. The line between the hands took quite easily, but unfortunately the other two (the one from the long-tackle block to the left hand, and that from the right hand to the deck) came away on moving him. I therefore decided to glue the figure to the model before attaching the latter two lines. However, the line from the LT block to his upper hand, which I had stiffened with glue, wouldn’t take, I think probably because I couldn’t keep my hand still sufficiently – and no, I hadn’t been drinking, or was suffering from caffein deficiency! I then hit on the idea of hanging a weighted length of thread and stiffening it with glue. When it was dry, and straight, I was then able to cut it to the right length, and glue it between the LT block and the hand. Then it only remained to glue the line from the right hand and realistically trail it along the deck.
 
My other problem was with the acrylic paints that I had recently purchased (a neat set of 18 colours in 12ml tubes) with which to paint the four remaining figures, including the bosun. I had been under the impression that they would have dried to a matt finish, as had the bottled paints (now largely dried up) that I used previously for the lieutenant. Unfortunately, they dried to a semi-sheen – there being no indication of the type of finish on the box. On reading about acrylics however, I learnt that a matting agent is mixed with some types to dull them, and which had seemingly been mixed with the previous paint I had used. Luckily, I still had some of the older colours left, some of which I hadn’t used for some time, where the paint had separated and sunk to the bottom of the bottle. This had left a clear liquid on the top, which I reasoned was the matting agent, and it gave me an idea. I syphoned a little of this off into a small container, being careful not to include any residue of the paint – a dark brown(!) – which I then brushed over the painted figure. On drying, the paint was dulled somewhat but did not turn out quite flat, however I can live with it – just. It will probably be better to mix the liquid in with the paint for the remaining four figures or, if that doesn’t work, give the whole paint set to my wife who is something of an artist, and buy ones that dry to the desired, flat, look! Anyway, here’s the finished result:
 

 
Following that somewhat windy digression, I’ll now return to the yard strops. The AOTS book on the Alert, shows that three of the four yards were hoisted from blocks seized to rope strops on the fore side of the mast. From the bottom, these were the spread yard, square sail yard, and topsail yard. The exception is the topgallant yard, its halliard running over a sheave set in the topgallant mast head and thence to the deck. The hoisting method for the three lower yards appears to have been the practice up until around the 1780's, when it was modified to reflect normal ship practice – and as seen in the arrangement for the latter yard. Since the Sherbourne is dated some fourteen years earlier than the Alert, she would almost certainly have had a similar system. At around the same date the whole masting and rigging of cutters underwent a revision. The lower mast and topmast became separate sections, with the topgallant becoming an extension of the topmast. The shrouds now passed around the actual lower masthead as per large ship practice, and the top mast was stepped forward of the lower mast, necessitating the introduction of topmast backstays.
 
The three lower yards on the Alert/Sherbourne, were simply hoisted at their appropriate positions, at large single blocks suspended from strops, the halliards most likely being made fast at the foot of the mast (or at least that’s where I intend to belay them). It would seem that parrels weren’t used, apart perhaps from one on the topsail yard. It does seem an unlikely arrangement, and the wonder is that it lasted so long. The first strop and block above the backstays, is that for the spread yard. The strop I made of 0.50 mm black thread, with a 5mm block turned into one end and seized, as per the blocks for the backstays. This is the longest of the three strops and is set at what I thought an appropriate distance from its yard position. Next above that is the strop and block for the square sail yard. Again, 0.50mm black thread was used and a 5mm block was turned into its end and seized. Somewhat shorter than the strop for the spread yard, it too is set at a suitable position for its yard. The last strop and block over the masthead was that for the staysail halliard, and smaller diameter 0.25mm black thread and a 3mm block were used for this.
 
Since the yards will not be rigged for a while, I decided to temporarily make the blocks fast to their appropriate mast cleats to prevent any movement. The staysail halliard I have belayed to the centre pin in the bitts in front of the mast:
 

 
 
Next time: the staysail horse, and forestay.

There are only running backstays provided for in the kit plans. However as mentioned previously many cutters had both running and standing backstays, as shown on the AOTS plans for the Alert, and I also included them. Having fitted the standing backstays, I decided to move the position of the running backstays further aft, so as to give a little more practical distance between the two. Thus the straps and eyes are situated on either side of the after gunport. Inside the bulwark on either side, inboard of the forward strap, I fitted a small shot garland – with a single belaying pin at its forward end for the falls of the tackles.
 
Since the model will be as she might appear in harbour, I opted to have both of the running backstays set up. At sea, normally only the windward one would have been in use, particularly when the vessel was ’running’ with the wind aft or over the quarter. The tackle of the leeward backstay, and hence the stay itself, would have been moved forward to a convenient place on the rail, from where it would not have impeded or chafed the main sail. When the cutter tacked the roles would have been reversed, the windward backstay then becoming the leeward, and vice versa.
 
The tackles were therefore most probably fitted with hooks, which fitted through the eyes on the top of the hull straps. I used four of those provided in the kit. The first small job was to fit two eyebolts just aft of the standing backstays, for the running backstays when they were not in use, painting them black.
 
The backstays themselves are in three sections. The standing part, which runs from the masthead to approximately two thirds of the distance to the deck, having a single block in its end; the running part, one end of which is hooked to the after eyebolt on the main rail, passes forward through the block in the tail end of the standing part, and is then seized to a long-tackle (LT) block at its other extremity; the tackle, the fall of which runs from the tail end of the LT block, and reeves between it and a double block on the eye of the forward strap on the rail, before belaying to the pin in the shot garland on the bulwark. The following mainly describes the rigging of the running backstay on one side of the model, which is of course duplicated on the other.
 

 
To take the standing part first, this is of 0.7m black waxed thread, with a 5mm block seized into one end. Both blocks were stained and the seizings made, with the help of my new seizing machine – and they didn’t turn out too badly, for a first effort. I made both the larboard and starboard together, to ensure they would be of the same length. The upper ends were then seized around the mast head, as for the other backstays, the starboard first. Again I had to ensure that the same amount was doubled and seized on each length, in order that both blocks would be approximately in the same place when rove – and I breathed a sigh of relief to find, when they were in position, that they were exactly level.
 
Moving on to the running part I used 0.5m tan thread for this, and again both sides were made together. First each hook had to be filed somewhat to fit satisfactorily through the eyes on the hull straps, before the thread was seized to them. The hooks were painted black after seizing as being somewhat easier to hold. The line was then lightly waxed and the hook connected to the after strap on the rail, the end of the line being threaded forward through the single block on the standing part. (I should perhaps mention here, that all the hooks were passed through the eyes in the straps from the inboard to the outboard side.) The end emerging from the block had now had to be seized to a LT block. These are not included in the kit, so two suitable 7mm LT blocks were purchased. They proved generally satisfactory in both colour and shape, although I had to to file out the grooves for the strops.
 
Now we come to something of a ’Heath Robinson’ moment. I estimated that the top of each LT block had to be seized about 2cm below the base of the single block at the end of the standing part, to look right. The problem was in getting the blocks on both backstays in a similar position. I eventually hit on the idea of using a thin stick – and a small blob of blue tack (well, I did say it was HR). First I tensioned the line coming from the single block, using self-closing tweezers (they are ideal for such weighting jobs), picked up the LT block on the blue-tacked end of the stick, and ran a very thin bead of glue down the visible groove with a pin.
 
Then, holding the stick horizontally from the opposite side of the model, I offered up the LT block (larger end uppermost) to the line of the running part nearest to me, i.e. across the model – at the same time simply (?) measuring 2cm below the single block, with a ruler! This ensured I could see that the groove, and hence the glue, went directly against the line in the correct place – and that the latter didn’t spread itself liberally, unseen, all over the block! Once the LT block was attached I used a light clamp, on both it and the line, until it was dry. Then it was just a question of glueing the rest of the line around the groove in the block, leaving a very short tale which was glued to the line above it. This was then seized and the job was done.
 

 
The tackle reeves between the LT block and a 4mm double block attached to the forward strap on the rail (again the latter blocks are not included in the kit). I attached the hook to the block with a thin wire strop, painted black, twisting a small loop into it at the base of the double block to accommodate the strap eye. As with the LT blocks, the double blocks were well made apart from the groove for the strops having again to be filed out. Little had also to be done to the sheave holes, apart from pushing a pin through them to be sure they were clear.
 
The fall was 0.25mm tan, waxed thread, the end being passed with a needle through the strop at the base of the LT block, and fastened with a knot and a small drop of glue, the latter applied with the end of a pin. The fall was then rove between LT block and the double block, from the outer side to the inner side, and coming off of the upper sheave of the LT block. The fall on the starboard side was belayed to the pin in the shot garland, and finished off with a coil. That to larboard has been tensioned, but not belayed, it being held by a drop of glue in the sheave of the double block where the line emerges. I intend one of the crew figures to be hauling on the fall, being at the right angle, so this has been left until he is painted. I will probably post a photo of him later, when in position.
 
That just about finishes off the standing rigging aft of the mast, and the ’action’ now moves to the fore side – which at the moment is looking distinctly bare. To finish, and as requested, I've added a couple of photos of the 'situation' at the lower masthead, or the spot where the shrouds meet:
 
 
 
Next time: the strops and blocks for the lower yards, and the fore staysail halliard.

The kit is provided with two running backstays, one on each side but, in addition I decided to add two standing backstays, such as fitted to the Alert. This arrangement would appear to be the more likely – which is not really surprising, considering the large sail area of these cutters, and the mast support required. The backstays go next over the masthead after the shrouds, the standing ones nearest the mast first, followed by the running backstays further aft.
 
The standing backstays are fitted with deadeyes and lanyards, of a similar size to those for the shrouds, and I purchased four extra 5mm deadeyes for them. I had previously set eyebolts into the side of the hull for these backstays but now realised that they would be neither sufficient nor in the right position, and so removed them. The lower deadeye of the standing backstay sits on the edge of the cap rail, being bolted to a metal strengthening strap, which effectively transmits the pull of the shroud to the hull. On considering what might I might use for these I remembered the short brass strips left over in the kit, originally intended as handles (!) for the swivel guns and which I hadn’t used, but retained amongst my spare parts. However, they looked as though they just might make passable backstay straps. (Moral: never throw anything away you think you might find a use for!)
 
One end of each strip has a hole drilled in it, which I thought to use for pinning the strap to the side of the hull (conveniently through the holes which had previously held the eyebolts) whilst the other end comes to a point. After having rounded off the square corners at the ’hole’ end and slightly widened the hole itself (for some reason a new similar–sized pin wouldn’t fit!), I then turned the strip round and bent over the point, so that it formed a hooked shape. (My thinking was that this would hold firmly on the caprail, whilst leaving a small gap between it and the rail to pass a wire strap around the deadeye. The bent angle should also fit into the groove in the deadeye.) The finished strap was then laid aside, whilst I made a similar one for the backstay on other side. (Making up the pair together not only ensured that the same procedure was followed for both but the two will, hopefully, end up looking reasonably similar.)
 

 
I had originally thought to glue the strap and its deadeye to the hull as a single unit but, in doing this, I couldn’t be sure that the angle of the deadeye to the lie of the shroud would be correct. I therefore decided it was better to fix the strap first, then mount the deadeye to it. (I also only have one pair of hands and it would have been difficult, to say the least, to manage all of these procedures at the same time!) The way I eventually decided on to attach the strap, was to first cut the retaining bolt to the right length then, holding the end with small pliers, pass it through the hole in the strip, brush the other end with CA and push it into the hole in the hull – at the same time angling the strap to the seized shrouds on the mast, using a simple ruler. (A bit heath robinson, and it had of course had to be done quickly before the glue went off, but it did work after a fashion.)
 
A length of suitably-sized, flexible, wire was then passed under the turned over part of the strip on the rail and glued, leaving one end long, the other very short. The wire was to form the retaining strap around the deadeye. The wire was painted black, and the long end was then passed around the groove in the deadeye and under the bent over part of the strap. It was gently worked tight, with a pair of long-nosed pliers in one hand, the other aligning the deadeye in the direction of the lie of the shroud. The deadeye itself was left free within the wire strap, so that it could be correctly orientated. The long end of the wire was wound firmly three or four times around strap below the deadeye, anchoring the short end, being fixed with CA. A touch-up with black paint, and the job was done. (I may as well point out an error here, before the eagle-eyed amongst you do so, in that the deadeye is upside down! My fault entirely, being caught up in the intricacies of the work – but I am afraid the error will now have to remain.)
 

 
The whole process had been a little intricate so, rather than go straight to fitting the backstay strap on the other side, I first decided to rig the backstay and lanyard on the strap that I had just finished. The backstays, both standing and running, should be of a slightly smaller size than the shrouds, and I opted to use 0.7mm thread for them.  The backstays on each side are of course single, the upper end being passed around the mast and seized to itself. Apart from that the same procedure was followed as previously for the shrouds. The distance between the two standing backstay deadeyes when rigged I decided to make about about half that of the main shrouds, in order that all of the deadeyes would be more of a uniform height. Having rove the backstay lanyard in the normal way, and as earlier described for the shrouds, I left the end long whilst I made and rigged the opposite side deadeye fittings and shroud, which were done in the same way. Both backstays were then finally tensioned, each lanyard being threaded between the shroud and the top of the deadeye with a needle, before being fastened off around the shroud.
 

 
Moving on to the straps for the running backstays, here again I decided that the eyebolts I had earlier placed for them would both be insufficient, and in the wrong position. I could now also see that it would be easier, with the mast and in situ, to judge where they should be positioned. Searching around for suitable material, I again remembered that left over from the swivel guns. This included the strips of metal originally intended for the gun supports, but which I didn’t think had looked quite right, and so had swopped for something else. The strips were rather long, having two creases in their length where they were supposed to be bent at right angles, giving two long sides and a middle shorter side, to form the support. I therefore cut one of the longer sides off, a process which left two holes, one in the remaining long side, and one in the short. The crease between them was slightly bent to accomodate the uneven side of the hull, and to which the long side could be glued. The hole in that side was used to pin the strap to the hull. The hole in the short end was used to attach the hooks of the running tackle, when the backstay was set up. With a pair of pliers I cut off the square corners at the short end, leaving the part with the hole proud, and which would protrude above the rail when positioned. I rounded off all the corners and then painted the finished straps black.
 
Using a length of thread from the masthead to align the shroud straps, I then fixed all four in position with CA. New holes then had to be drilled in the hull, through those in the lower part of the straps, for the pins. This operation had to be done very carefully, first using a drill size smaller than the hole and then enlarging it, so that the movement of the drill bit didn’t knock off the strap. (This actually did happen with one of them – which, naturally, promptly ’pinged’ off onto the floor, although I did eventually find it.) This operation took a little while, but the straps were all finally glued and pinned in position. It was then just a question of tidying up the upper wale and rail, and touching up the black paint on both.
 
The final job will be to attach the running backstays themselves and their associated tackle. However, this will have to wait until next time, as there was one small task to be done before that, and whilst I still had the access to do it. This was to position the first crew member on deck, the young lieutenant and commanding officer…
 

 
Next time: Setting up the running backstays.

The last of the ships guns have now been added and fully rigged with the carriage guns set in the most forward bow chaser position, as can be seen the new captain has arrived and is overseeing the fitting out.
 
I did order walnut dowel to replace the birch dowel in the kit except the 10mm dowel which will be painted and is not warped, it came today and it is of much better quality plus some .25mm black thread for the ratlines all from Cornwall model boats who are also very quick to send out any orders.
 
Bow chasers rigged


 
Carronade rigging

 
Captain in charge

 
All ships guns now fully rigged




 

Hammock rails and netting
 
The hammock rails were added, and .5mm thread threaded through the holes, the netting I used on my Pegasus build looked to small and fine, I did have some other netting that I had from the Pegasus build, the problem being it was red, but looked a better size, so I painted it mat black and it came out ok, so I decided to use it. My method for fixing the netting, is to line up the netting to the top edge and sew it to the rail thread as it the photos, then tie the netting into the bottom corners of the cranes, and then trim to to hight of the other crane upright and sew as the first side, and then just trim up and tie in any bits that need it, and final touch up the paint.
The hull is now completed with just a few touch ups required I will take some photos and add them soon.
netting

cranes added


sewing on netting
attachment=161383:sewing to top thread.jpg]

 
 
netting finished



 
 

Thanks so much Scott.
 
Just returned from a trip up north to see the kids and grandkids and to attend my 50th law school reunion. Had a great time, but happy to get back to Essex.
 
I've completed the waist deck framing. The construction followed the materials and procedures used for the other deck framing ( all of which has been previously described ). With this step, all of the upper deck framing is now done. I've included a full profile photo of the model to this point. The next work will be the limited deck planking to be done in the waist.
 
Bob
 
 

Have been busy making hatches, coamings and gratings for the gun deck.  These are all permanently fixed to the false deck and will be planked around.  I used simple lap joints for the corners.  The gratings were supplied laser cut.  The hatch with the pull rings used eyebolts and separate rings made from fine black annealed wire.
 

 
The corners were slightly rounded above planking level.  All are basswood and were stained with diluted Golden Oak.  The bottoms were sanded lightly to match the curvature of the false deck.
 

 
The treenailed platform behind the aftmost grating is for the capstan.
 

 
Just behind the foremast hole you'll see the coaming for the stove's platform.  This has not been set permanently on the deck as we now need to create a 'bricked platform' .  We'll take a closer look at this later on (after I figure out how to do it) .
 
Hope everyone is well and prepared to have some grog to celebrate the coming solstice
 
 
 
 

Hey all! I have started to plan for the next steps.
 
One thing was deciding the look of the deadeyes. This is the look I want: Heartshaped and quite wonky and irregular in shape.
 

 
I ended up just sanding the round ones in the kit to imitate that shape. I also tried to make the metal parts holding some of them, the kit suggests rope on these ones also, but I want metal ones.
 
This is how far I am doing a test version:
 

 

 
 
/Matti
 
 
 

Glad to hear you have managed a little build time mate.Your masts are coming on well,with some great detailing   .There is certainly a lot more work involved in these than one would expect at first glance.Your model is developing a wonderful 'organic' look to the colours and I love the contrast with lighter shades on the deck and masting  
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hey all! Finally things are going less hectic and I had a little time to build. The masts except the bowsprit are positioned and I made the bowsprit mast.  
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
/Matti

Build log part 39
 
 
 

chain plates (here in the Moment only those for 5mm deadeyes) on closed, planked starboard side
 

port side foremast chainplates, as far as the planking is in place the complete chain is fitted, in the area of the cutaway portions, I use one of the stringers together with length-dressed chain plates and leaving away the the lower cap plate. The boltings are placed at half width of the stringer
 

Mainmast chainplates, I trust it is a solution that does not look too much out of the way after all
 

thealignment angles can be set just like on the planked starboard side
 
 
 
Nils