Blue Ensign

Post 77
Strops, chains, and plates. – Part three
With new upper chain links made I can proceed with the fitting.

4266a
Each one was trial fitted to check the  drop before  pinning to the hull.

4265a
A tiresome business but the end result at least complies with the Adm./kit plans, rather than the less convincing look that would follow had I used all the provided parts as is.
 
Topmast and T’gallant Backstays
I won’t be rigging these but the channel deadeyes will be in place. The kit uses 5mm ø deadeyes for the lower shrouds and 3mm deadeyes for the Topmast and T’gallant backstays.
Steel indicates a thimble set-up for the T’gallant  Backstays but the ADm plan shows deadeyes in place.

4272a
I have opted to use 4mm deadeyes for the Topmasts, and 3mm for the T’gallants. Although not exactly to scale this reflects the reduction in size of the upper masts rigging line.

4271a
As with the shrouds I has to re-make the  upper chain link to bring the  lower link to the correct level.
These are tiny links which took a few attempts to get right, or replace those that just on completion pinged off into the ether.
An exercise in frustration.

4273a

4274a

4275a

4277a
I think a glass of Merlot is required before I tackle the Port side.
 
Cheers,🍷
 
B.E.
12/05/2025

Post 77
Strops, chains, and plates. – Part three
With new upper chain links made I can proceed with the fitting.

4266a
Each one was trial fitted to check the  drop before  pinning to the hull.

4265a
A tiresome business but the end result at least complies with the Adm./kit plans, rather than the less convincing look that would follow had I used all the provided parts as is.
 
Topmast and T’gallant Backstays
I won’t be rigging these but the channel deadeyes will be in place. The kit uses 5mm ø deadeyes for the lower shrouds and 3mm deadeyes for the Topmast and T’gallant backstays.
Steel indicates a thimble set-up for the T’gallant  Backstays but the ADm plan shows deadeyes in place.

4272a
I have opted to use 4mm deadeyes for the Topmasts, and 3mm for the T’gallants. Although not exactly to scale this reflects the reduction in size of the upper masts rigging line.

4271a
As with the shrouds I has to re-make the  upper chain link to bring the  lower link to the correct level.
These are tiny links which took a few attempts to get right, or replace those that just on completion pinged off into the ether.
An exercise in frustration.

4273a

4274a

4275a

4277a
I think a glass of Merlot is required before I tackle the Port side.
 
Cheers,🍷
 
B.E.
12/05/2025

Post 77
Strops, chains, and plates. – Part three
With new upper chain links made I can proceed with the fitting.

4266a
Each one was trial fitted to check the  drop before  pinning to the hull.

4265a
A tiresome business but the end result at least complies with the Adm./kit plans, rather than the less convincing look that would follow had I used all the provided parts as is.
 
Topmast and T’gallant Backstays
I won’t be rigging these but the channel deadeyes will be in place. The kit uses 5mm ø deadeyes for the lower shrouds and 3mm deadeyes for the Topmast and T’gallant backstays.
Steel indicates a thimble set-up for the T’gallant  Backstays but the ADm plan shows deadeyes in place.

4272a
I have opted to use 4mm deadeyes for the Topmasts, and 3mm for the T’gallants. Although not exactly to scale this reflects the reduction in size of the upper masts rigging line.

4271a
As with the shrouds I has to re-make the  upper chain link to bring the  lower link to the correct level.
These are tiny links which took a few attempts to get right, or replace those that just on completion pinged off into the ether.
An exercise in frustration.

4273a

4274a

4275a

4277a
I think a glass of Merlot is required before I tackle the Port side.
 
Cheers,🍷
 
B.E.
12/05/2025

Post 77
Strops, chains, and plates. – Part three
With new upper chain links made I can proceed with the fitting.

4266a
Each one was trial fitted to check the  drop before  pinning to the hull.

4265a
A tiresome business but the end result at least complies with the Adm./kit plans, rather than the less convincing look that would follow had I used all the provided parts as is.
 
Topmast and T’gallant Backstays
I won’t be rigging these but the channel deadeyes will be in place. The kit uses 5mm ø deadeyes for the lower shrouds and 3mm deadeyes for the Topmast and T’gallant backstays.
Steel indicates a thimble set-up for the T’gallant  Backstays but the ADm plan shows deadeyes in place.

4272a
I have opted to use 4mm deadeyes for the Topmasts, and 3mm for the T’gallants. Although not exactly to scale this reflects the reduction in size of the upper masts rigging line.

4271a
As with the shrouds I has to re-make the  upper chain link to bring the  lower link to the correct level.
These are tiny links which took a few attempts to get right, or replace those that just on completion pinged off into the ether.
An exercise in frustration.

4273a

4274a

4275a

4277a
I think a glass of Merlot is required before I tackle the Port side.
 
Cheers,🍷
 
B.E.
12/05/2025

Post 77
Strops, chains, and plates. – Part three
With new upper chain links made I can proceed with the fitting.

4266a
Each one was trial fitted to check the  drop before  pinning to the hull.

4265a
A tiresome business but the end result at least complies with the Adm./kit plans, rather than the less convincing look that would follow had I used all the provided parts as is.
 
Topmast and T’gallant Backstays
I won’t be rigging these but the channel deadeyes will be in place. The kit uses 5mm ø deadeyes for the lower shrouds and 3mm deadeyes for the Topmast and T’gallant backstays.
Steel indicates a thimble set-up for the T’gallant  Backstays but the ADm plan shows deadeyes in place.

4272a
I have opted to use 4mm deadeyes for the Topmasts, and 3mm for the T’gallants. Although not exactly to scale this reflects the reduction in size of the upper masts rigging line.

4271a
As with the shrouds I has to re-make the  upper chain link to bring the  lower link to the correct level.
These are tiny links which took a few attempts to get right, or replace those that just on completion pinged off into the ether.
An exercise in frustration.

4273a

4274a

4275a

4277a
I think a glass of Merlot is required before I tackle the Port side.
 
Cheers,🍷
 
B.E.
12/05/2025

Post 77
Strops, chains, and plates. – Part three
With new upper chain links made I can proceed with the fitting.

4266a
Each one was trial fitted to check the  drop before  pinning to the hull.

4265a
A tiresome business but the end result at least complies with the Adm./kit plans, rather than the less convincing look that would follow had I used all the provided parts as is.
 
Topmast and T’gallant Backstays
I won’t be rigging these but the channel deadeyes will be in place. The kit uses 5mm ø deadeyes for the lower shrouds and 3mm deadeyes for the Topmast and T’gallant backstays.
Steel indicates a thimble set-up for the T’gallant  Backstays but the ADm plan shows deadeyes in place.

4272a
I have opted to use 4mm deadeyes for the Topmasts, and 3mm for the T’gallants. Although not exactly to scale this reflects the reduction in size of the upper masts rigging line.

4271a
As with the shrouds I has to re-make the  upper chain link to bring the  lower link to the correct level.
These are tiny links which took a few attempts to get right, or replace those that just on completion pinged off into the ether.
An exercise in frustration.

4273a

4274a

4275a

4277a
I think a glass of Merlot is required before I tackle the Port side.
 
Cheers,🍷
 
B.E.
12/05/2025

Post 77
Strops, chains, and plates. – Part three
With new upper chain links made I can proceed with the fitting.

4266a
Each one was trial fitted to check the  drop before  pinning to the hull.

4265a
A tiresome business but the end result at least complies with the Adm./kit plans, rather than the less convincing look that would follow had I used all the provided parts as is.
 
Topmast and T’gallant Backstays
I won’t be rigging these but the channel deadeyes will be in place. The kit uses 5mm ø deadeyes for the lower shrouds and 3mm deadeyes for the Topmast and T’gallant backstays.
Steel indicates a thimble set-up for the T’gallant  Backstays but the ADm plan shows deadeyes in place.

4272a
I have opted to use 4mm deadeyes for the Topmasts, and 3mm for the T’gallants. Although not exactly to scale this reflects the reduction in size of the upper masts rigging line.

4271a
As with the shrouds I has to re-make the  upper chain link to bring the  lower link to the correct level.
These are tiny links which took a few attempts to get right, or replace those that just on completion pinged off into the ether.
An exercise in frustration.

4273a

4274a

4275a

4277a
I think a glass of Merlot is required before I tackle the Port side.
 
Cheers,🍷
 
B.E.
12/05/2025

Post 77
Strops, chains, and plates. – Part three
With new upper chain links made I can proceed with the fitting.

4266a
Each one was trial fitted to check the  drop before  pinning to the hull.

4265a
A tiresome business but the end result at least complies with the Adm./kit plans, rather than the less convincing look that would follow had I used all the provided parts as is.
 
Topmast and T’gallant Backstays
I won’t be rigging these but the channel deadeyes will be in place. The kit uses 5mm ø deadeyes for the lower shrouds and 3mm deadeyes for the Topmast and T’gallant backstays.
Steel indicates a thimble set-up for the T’gallant  Backstays but the ADm plan shows deadeyes in place.

4272a
I have opted to use 4mm deadeyes for the Topmasts, and 3mm for the T’gallants. Although not exactly to scale this reflects the reduction in size of the upper masts rigging line.

4271a
As with the shrouds I has to re-make the  upper chain link to bring the  lower link to the correct level.
These are tiny links which took a few attempts to get right, or replace those that just on completion pinged off into the ether.
An exercise in frustration.

4273a

4274a

4275a

4277a
I think a glass of Merlot is required before I tackle the Port side.
 
Cheers,🍷
 
B.E.
12/05/2025

Post 77
Strops, chains, and plates. – Part three
With new upper chain links made I can proceed with the fitting.

4266a
Each one was trial fitted to check the  drop before  pinning to the hull.

4265a
A tiresome business but the end result at least complies with the Adm./kit plans, rather than the less convincing look that would follow had I used all the provided parts as is.
 
Topmast and T’gallant Backstays
I won’t be rigging these but the channel deadeyes will be in place. The kit uses 5mm ø deadeyes for the lower shrouds and 3mm deadeyes for the Topmast and T’gallant backstays.
Steel indicates a thimble set-up for the T’gallant  Backstays but the ADm plan shows deadeyes in place.

4272a
I have opted to use 4mm deadeyes for the Topmasts, and 3mm for the T’gallants. Although not exactly to scale this reflects the reduction in size of the upper masts rigging line.

4271a
As with the shrouds I has to re-make the  upper chain link to bring the  lower link to the correct level.
These are tiny links which took a few attempts to get right, or replace those that just on completion pinged off into the ether.
An exercise in frustration.

4273a

4274a

4275a

4277a
I think a glass of Merlot is required before I tackle the Port side.
 
Cheers,🍷
 
B.E.
12/05/2025

Post 77
Strops, chains, and plates. – Part three
With new upper chain links made I can proceed with the fitting.

4266a
Each one was trial fitted to check the  drop before  pinning to the hull.

4265a
A tiresome business but the end result at least complies with the Adm./kit plans, rather than the less convincing look that would follow had I used all the provided parts as is.
 
Topmast and T’gallant Backstays
I won’t be rigging these but the channel deadeyes will be in place. The kit uses 5mm ø deadeyes for the lower shrouds and 3mm deadeyes for the Topmast and T’gallant backstays.
Steel indicates a thimble set-up for the T’gallant  Backstays but the ADm plan shows deadeyes in place.

4272a
I have opted to use 4mm deadeyes for the Topmasts, and 3mm for the T’gallants. Although not exactly to scale this reflects the reduction in size of the upper masts rigging line.

4271a
As with the shrouds I has to re-make the  upper chain link to bring the  lower link to the correct level.
These are tiny links which took a few attempts to get right, or replace those that just on completion pinged off into the ether.
An exercise in frustration.

4273a

4274a

4275a

4277a
I think a glass of Merlot is required before I tackle the Port side.
 
Cheers,🍷
 
B.E.
12/05/2025

Post 77
Strops, chains, and plates. – Part three
With new upper chain links made I can proceed with the fitting.

4266a
Each one was trial fitted to check the  drop before  pinning to the hull.

4265a
A tiresome business but the end result at least complies with the Adm./kit plans, rather than the less convincing look that would follow had I used all the provided parts as is.
 
Topmast and T’gallant Backstays
I won’t be rigging these but the channel deadeyes will be in place. The kit uses 5mm ø deadeyes for the lower shrouds and 3mm deadeyes for the Topmast and T’gallant backstays.
Steel indicates a thimble set-up for the T’gallant  Backstays but the ADm plan shows deadeyes in place.

4272a
I have opted to use 4mm deadeyes for the Topmasts, and 3mm for the T’gallants. Although not exactly to scale this reflects the reduction in size of the upper masts rigging line.

4271a
As with the shrouds I has to re-make the  upper chain link to bring the  lower link to the correct level.
These are tiny links which took a few attempts to get right, or replace those that just on completion pinged off into the ether.
An exercise in frustration.

4273a

4274a

4275a

4277a
I think a glass of Merlot is required before I tackle the Port side.
 
Cheers,🍷
 
B.E.
12/05/2025

Post 77
Strops, chains, and plates. – Part three
With new upper chain links made I can proceed with the fitting.

4266a
Each one was trial fitted to check the  drop before  pinning to the hull.

4265a
A tiresome business but the end result at least complies with the Adm./kit plans, rather than the less convincing look that would follow had I used all the provided parts as is.
 
Topmast and T’gallant Backstays
I won’t be rigging these but the channel deadeyes will be in place. The kit uses 5mm ø deadeyes for the lower shrouds and 3mm deadeyes for the Topmast and T’gallant backstays.
Steel indicates a thimble set-up for the T’gallant  Backstays but the ADm plan shows deadeyes in place.

4272a
I have opted to use 4mm deadeyes for the Topmasts, and 3mm for the T’gallants. Although not exactly to scale this reflects the reduction in size of the upper masts rigging line.

4271a
As with the shrouds I has to re-make the  upper chain link to bring the  lower link to the correct level.
These are tiny links which took a few attempts to get right, or replace those that just on completion pinged off into the ether.
An exercise in frustration.

4273a

4274a

4275a

4277a
I think a glass of Merlot is required before I tackle the Port side.
 
Cheers,🍷
 
B.E.
12/05/2025

Post 77
Strops, chains, and plates. – Part three
With new upper chain links made I can proceed with the fitting.

4266a
Each one was trial fitted to check the  drop before  pinning to the hull.

4265a
A tiresome business but the end result at least complies with the Adm./kit plans, rather than the less convincing look that would follow had I used all the provided parts as is.
 
Topmast and T’gallant Backstays
I won’t be rigging these but the channel deadeyes will be in place. The kit uses 5mm ø deadeyes for the lower shrouds and 3mm deadeyes for the Topmast and T’gallant backstays.
Steel indicates a thimble set-up for the T’gallant  Backstays but the ADm plan shows deadeyes in place.

4272a
I have opted to use 4mm deadeyes for the Topmasts, and 3mm for the T’gallants. Although not exactly to scale this reflects the reduction in size of the upper masts rigging line.

4271a
As with the shrouds I has to re-make the  upper chain link to bring the  lower link to the correct level.
These are tiny links which took a few attempts to get right, or replace those that just on completion pinged off into the ether.
An exercise in frustration.

4273a

4274a

4275a

4277a
I think a glass of Merlot is required before I tackle the Port side.
 
Cheers,🍷
 
B.E.
12/05/2025

Post 77
Strops, chains, and plates. – Part three
With new upper chain links made I can proceed with the fitting.

4266a
Each one was trial fitted to check the  drop before  pinning to the hull.

4265a
A tiresome business but the end result at least complies with the Adm./kit plans, rather than the less convincing look that would follow had I used all the provided parts as is.
 
Topmast and T’gallant Backstays
I won’t be rigging these but the channel deadeyes will be in place. The kit uses 5mm ø deadeyes for the lower shrouds and 3mm deadeyes for the Topmast and T’gallant backstays.
Steel indicates a thimble set-up for the T’gallant  Backstays but the ADm plan shows deadeyes in place.

4272a
I have opted to use 4mm deadeyes for the Topmasts, and 3mm for the T’gallants. Although not exactly to scale this reflects the reduction in size of the upper masts rigging line.

4271a
As with the shrouds I has to re-make the  upper chain link to bring the  lower link to the correct level.
These are tiny links which took a few attempts to get right, or replace those that just on completion pinged off into the ether.
An exercise in frustration.

4273a

4274a

4275a

4277a
I think a glass of Merlot is required before I tackle the Port side.
 
Cheers,🍷
 
B.E.
12/05/2025

Post 77
Strops, chains, and plates. – Part three
With new upper chain links made I can proceed with the fitting.

4266a
Each one was trial fitted to check the  drop before  pinning to the hull.

4265a
A tiresome business but the end result at least complies with the Adm./kit plans, rather than the less convincing look that would follow had I used all the provided parts as is.
 
Topmast and T’gallant Backstays
I won’t be rigging these but the channel deadeyes will be in place. The kit uses 5mm ø deadeyes for the lower shrouds and 3mm deadeyes for the Topmast and T’gallant backstays.
Steel indicates a thimble set-up for the T’gallant  Backstays but the ADm plan shows deadeyes in place.

4272a
I have opted to use 4mm deadeyes for the Topmasts, and 3mm for the T’gallants. Although not exactly to scale this reflects the reduction in size of the upper masts rigging line.

4271a
As with the shrouds I has to re-make the  upper chain link to bring the  lower link to the correct level.
These are tiny links which took a few attempts to get right, or replace those that just on completion pinged off into the ether.
An exercise in frustration.

4273a

4274a

4275a

4277a
I think a glass of Merlot is required before I tackle the Port side.
 
Cheers,🍷
 
B.E.
12/05/2025

Post 76
Strops, chains, and plates. – Part two

004
As I noted in Post 73, if I use the deadeye sets as issued the Preventer plates are thrown too far down on the Wale. They should be as per the plan as above.

4226a
I have completed the lower mast Deadeye strop fixing using the replacement Resin Deadeyes.
 
Stropping the Deadeyes does inevitably mar the blackening of the strops, but a test of the resin deadeye in the blackening fluid has no adverse effect. Once fitted the combination is re- dipped in the blackening.
 
The usual approach would be to make up the sets on the model, Upper link attached to the Deadeye strop, followed by the Lower link, thro’ which the Preventer plate would be pinned.
The lower fixing of the Preventer plate should sit around half way down the wale, with the lower chain link sitting just above the wale top.
 
I found this is not the case, so a tricky job ensues, one that I don’t particularly relish.
My approach will be to use Brass wire (0.5mm ø) to represent the upper chain link. It would prove difficult to modify the kit link because of thicker sections at the top and bottom.

4237a
I first need to make a jig to form the links. There is an excellent ‘how to’ in Volume 11 of  The ffm BY David Antscherl.

4238a
In reality the lengths of the upper links vary to accommodate the increasing angles of the aftermost shrouds.
The jig allows the  size to be adjusted as required, altho’ on Harpy the effect is minimal.

4242a
Strictly speaking the links should be closed but without open slots along the Channel fronts to insert completed strop and chain units, it becomes tricky.

0017
This test  link shows the correct position of the Preventer Plate.

4253a
The link at 8mm in length is 3mm less than the provided kit link.
 
With the masts in place I firstly need to mark the line of the shrouds. The kit shrouds are of 1mm ø black line, but I will be using 0.88mm ø Syren rigging line, which is spot on for scale for the lower shrouds.
I find provided black kit line too stark for my taste and my approach is to use natural line dyed with Dark Jacobean oak wood stain to represent the standing rigging.

4249a
Kit line used to mark the positions of the lower Preventer Plate bolt.
I think I can now proceed.
 
 
B.E.
10/05/2025
 

Post 76
Strops, chains, and plates. – Part two

004
As I noted in Post 73, if I use the deadeye sets as issued the Preventer plates are thrown too far down on the Wale. They should be as per the plan as above.

4226a
I have completed the lower mast Deadeye strop fixing using the replacement Resin Deadeyes.
 
Stropping the Deadeyes does inevitably mar the blackening of the strops, but a test of the resin deadeye in the blackening fluid has no adverse effect. Once fitted the combination is re- dipped in the blackening.
 
The usual approach would be to make up the sets on the model, Upper link attached to the Deadeye strop, followed by the Lower link, thro’ which the Preventer plate would be pinned.
The lower fixing of the Preventer plate should sit around half way down the wale, with the lower chain link sitting just above the wale top.
 
I found this is not the case, so a tricky job ensues, one that I don’t particularly relish.
My approach will be to use Brass wire (0.5mm ø) to represent the upper chain link. It would prove difficult to modify the kit link because of thicker sections at the top and bottom.

4237a
I first need to make a jig to form the links. There is an excellent ‘how to’ in Volume 11 of  The ffm BY David Antscherl.

4238a
In reality the lengths of the upper links vary to accommodate the increasing angles of the aftermost shrouds.
The jig allows the  size to be adjusted as required, altho’ on Harpy the effect is minimal.

4242a
Strictly speaking the links should be closed but without open slots along the Channel fronts to insert completed strop and chain units, it becomes tricky.

0017
This test  link shows the correct position of the Preventer Plate.

4253a
The link at 8mm in length is 3mm less than the provided kit link.
 
With the masts in place I firstly need to mark the line of the shrouds. The kit shrouds are of 1mm ø black line, but I will be using 0.88mm ø Syren rigging line, which is spot on for scale for the lower shrouds.
I find provided black kit line too stark for my taste and my approach is to use natural line dyed with Dark Jacobean oak wood stain to represent the standing rigging.

4249a
Kit line used to mark the positions of the lower Preventer Plate bolt.
I think I can now proceed.
 
 
B.E.
10/05/2025
 

Post 76
Strops, chains, and plates. – Part two

004
As I noted in Post 73, if I use the deadeye sets as issued the Preventer plates are thrown too far down on the Wale. They should be as per the plan as above.

4226a
I have completed the lower mast Deadeye strop fixing using the replacement Resin Deadeyes.
 
Stropping the Deadeyes does inevitably mar the blackening of the strops, but a test of the resin deadeye in the blackening fluid has no adverse effect. Once fitted the combination is re- dipped in the blackening.
 
The usual approach would be to make up the sets on the model, Upper link attached to the Deadeye strop, followed by the Lower link, thro’ which the Preventer plate would be pinned.
The lower fixing of the Preventer plate should sit around half way down the wale, with the lower chain link sitting just above the wale top.
 
I found this is not the case, so a tricky job ensues, one that I don’t particularly relish.
My approach will be to use Brass wire (0.5mm ø) to represent the upper chain link. It would prove difficult to modify the kit link because of thicker sections at the top and bottom.

4237a
I first need to make a jig to form the links. There is an excellent ‘how to’ in Volume 11 of  The ffm BY David Antscherl.

4238a
In reality the lengths of the upper links vary to accommodate the increasing angles of the aftermost shrouds.
The jig allows the  size to be adjusted as required, altho’ on Harpy the effect is minimal.

4242a
Strictly speaking the links should be closed but without open slots along the Channel fronts to insert completed strop and chain units, it becomes tricky.

0017
This test  link shows the correct position of the Preventer Plate.

4253a
The link at 8mm in length is 3mm less than the provided kit link.
 
With the masts in place I firstly need to mark the line of the shrouds. The kit shrouds are of 1mm ø black line, but I will be using 0.88mm ø Syren rigging line, which is spot on for scale for the lower shrouds.
I find provided black kit line too stark for my taste and my approach is to use natural line dyed with Dark Jacobean oak wood stain to represent the standing rigging.

4249a
Kit line used to mark the positions of the lower Preventer Plate bolt.
I think I can now proceed.
 
 
B.E.
10/05/2025
 

Post 76
Strops, chains, and plates. – Part two

004
As I noted in Post 73, if I use the deadeye sets as issued the Preventer plates are thrown too far down on the Wale. They should be as per the plan as above.

4226a
I have completed the lower mast Deadeye strop fixing using the replacement Resin Deadeyes.
 
Stropping the Deadeyes does inevitably mar the blackening of the strops, but a test of the resin deadeye in the blackening fluid has no adverse effect. Once fitted the combination is re- dipped in the blackening.
 
The usual approach would be to make up the sets on the model, Upper link attached to the Deadeye strop, followed by the Lower link, thro’ which the Preventer plate would be pinned.
The lower fixing of the Preventer plate should sit around half way down the wale, with the lower chain link sitting just above the wale top.
 
I found this is not the case, so a tricky job ensues, one that I don’t particularly relish.
My approach will be to use Brass wire (0.5mm ø) to represent the upper chain link. It would prove difficult to modify the kit link because of thicker sections at the top and bottom.

4237a
I first need to make a jig to form the links. There is an excellent ‘how to’ in Volume 11 of  The ffm BY David Antscherl.

4238a
In reality the lengths of the upper links vary to accommodate the increasing angles of the aftermost shrouds.
The jig allows the  size to be adjusted as required, altho’ on Harpy the effect is minimal.

4242a
Strictly speaking the links should be closed but without open slots along the Channel fronts to insert completed strop and chain units, it becomes tricky.

0017
This test  link shows the correct position of the Preventer Plate.

4253a
The link at 8mm in length is 3mm less than the provided kit link.
 
With the masts in place I firstly need to mark the line of the shrouds. The kit shrouds are of 1mm ø black line, but I will be using 0.88mm ø Syren rigging line, which is spot on for scale for the lower shrouds.
I find provided black kit line too stark for my taste and my approach is to use natural line dyed with Dark Jacobean oak wood stain to represent the standing rigging.

4249a
Kit line used to mark the positions of the lower Preventer Plate bolt.
I think I can now proceed.
 
 
B.E.
10/05/2025
 

Post 76
Strops, chains, and plates. – Part two

004
As I noted in Post 73, if I use the deadeye sets as issued the Preventer plates are thrown too far down on the Wale. They should be as per the plan as above.

4226a
I have completed the lower mast Deadeye strop fixing using the replacement Resin Deadeyes.
 
Stropping the Deadeyes does inevitably mar the blackening of the strops, but a test of the resin deadeye in the blackening fluid has no adverse effect. Once fitted the combination is re- dipped in the blackening.
 
The usual approach would be to make up the sets on the model, Upper link attached to the Deadeye strop, followed by the Lower link, thro’ which the Preventer plate would be pinned.
The lower fixing of the Preventer plate should sit around half way down the wale, with the lower chain link sitting just above the wale top.
 
I found this is not the case, so a tricky job ensues, one that I don’t particularly relish.
My approach will be to use Brass wire (0.5mm ø) to represent the upper chain link. It would prove difficult to modify the kit link because of thicker sections at the top and bottom.

4237a
I first need to make a jig to form the links. There is an excellent ‘how to’ in Volume 11 of  The ffm BY David Antscherl.

4238a
In reality the lengths of the upper links vary to accommodate the increasing angles of the aftermost shrouds.
The jig allows the  size to be adjusted as required, altho’ on Harpy the effect is minimal.

4242a
Strictly speaking the links should be closed but without open slots along the Channel fronts to insert completed strop and chain units, it becomes tricky.

0017
This test  link shows the correct position of the Preventer Plate.

4253a
The link at 8mm in length is 3mm less than the provided kit link.
 
With the masts in place I firstly need to mark the line of the shrouds. The kit shrouds are of 1mm ø black line, but I will be using 0.88mm ø Syren rigging line, which is spot on for scale for the lower shrouds.
I find provided black kit line too stark for my taste and my approach is to use natural line dyed with Dark Jacobean oak wood stain to represent the standing rigging.

4249a
Kit line used to mark the positions of the lower Preventer Plate bolt.
I think I can now proceed.
 
 
B.E.
10/05/2025
 

Post 76
Strops, chains, and plates. – Part two

004
As I noted in Post 73, if I use the deadeye sets as issued the Preventer plates are thrown too far down on the Wale. They should be as per the plan as above.

4226a
I have completed the lower mast Deadeye strop fixing using the replacement Resin Deadeyes.
 
Stropping the Deadeyes does inevitably mar the blackening of the strops, but a test of the resin deadeye in the blackening fluid has no adverse effect. Once fitted the combination is re- dipped in the blackening.
 
The usual approach would be to make up the sets on the model, Upper link attached to the Deadeye strop, followed by the Lower link, thro’ which the Preventer plate would be pinned.
The lower fixing of the Preventer plate should sit around half way down the wale, with the lower chain link sitting just above the wale top.
 
I found this is not the case, so a tricky job ensues, one that I don’t particularly relish.
My approach will be to use Brass wire (0.5mm ø) to represent the upper chain link. It would prove difficult to modify the kit link because of thicker sections at the top and bottom.

4237a
I first need to make a jig to form the links. There is an excellent ‘how to’ in Volume 11 of  The ffm BY David Antscherl.

4238a
In reality the lengths of the upper links vary to accommodate the increasing angles of the aftermost shrouds.
The jig allows the  size to be adjusted as required, altho’ on Harpy the effect is minimal.

4242a
Strictly speaking the links should be closed but without open slots along the Channel fronts to insert completed strop and chain units, it becomes tricky.

0017
This test  link shows the correct position of the Preventer Plate.

4253a
The link at 8mm in length is 3mm less than the provided kit link.
 
With the masts in place I firstly need to mark the line of the shrouds. The kit shrouds are of 1mm ø black line, but I will be using 0.88mm ø Syren rigging line, which is spot on for scale for the lower shrouds.
I find provided black kit line too stark for my taste and my approach is to use natural line dyed with Dark Jacobean oak wood stain to represent the standing rigging.

4249a
Kit line used to mark the positions of the lower Preventer Plate bolt.
I think I can now proceed.
 
 
B.E.
10/05/2025
 

Post 76
Strops, chains, and plates. – Part two

004
As I noted in Post 73, if I use the deadeye sets as issued the Preventer plates are thrown too far down on the Wale. They should be as per the plan as above.

4226a
I have completed the lower mast Deadeye strop fixing using the replacement Resin Deadeyes.
 
Stropping the Deadeyes does inevitably mar the blackening of the strops, but a test of the resin deadeye in the blackening fluid has no adverse effect. Once fitted the combination is re- dipped in the blackening.
 
The usual approach would be to make up the sets on the model, Upper link attached to the Deadeye strop, followed by the Lower link, thro’ which the Preventer plate would be pinned.
The lower fixing of the Preventer plate should sit around half way down the wale, with the lower chain link sitting just above the wale top.
 
I found this is not the case, so a tricky job ensues, one that I don’t particularly relish.
My approach will be to use Brass wire (0.5mm ø) to represent the upper chain link. It would prove difficult to modify the kit link because of thicker sections at the top and bottom.

4237a
I first need to make a jig to form the links. There is an excellent ‘how to’ in Volume 11 of  The ffm BY David Antscherl.

4238a
In reality the lengths of the upper links vary to accommodate the increasing angles of the aftermost shrouds.
The jig allows the  size to be adjusted as required, altho’ on Harpy the effect is minimal.

4242a
Strictly speaking the links should be closed but without open slots along the Channel fronts to insert completed strop and chain units, it becomes tricky.

0017
This test  link shows the correct position of the Preventer Plate.

4253a
The link at 8mm in length is 3mm less than the provided kit link.
 
With the masts in place I firstly need to mark the line of the shrouds. The kit shrouds are of 1mm ø black line, but I will be using 0.88mm ø Syren rigging line, which is spot on for scale for the lower shrouds.
I find provided black kit line too stark for my taste and my approach is to use natural line dyed with Dark Jacobean oak wood stain to represent the standing rigging.

4249a
Kit line used to mark the positions of the lower Preventer Plate bolt.
I think I can now proceed.
 
 
B.E.
10/05/2025
 

Post 76
Strops, chains, and plates. – Part two

004
As I noted in Post 73, if I use the deadeye sets as issued the Preventer plates are thrown too far down on the Wale. They should be as per the plan as above.

4226a
I have completed the lower mast Deadeye strop fixing using the replacement Resin Deadeyes.
 
Stropping the Deadeyes does inevitably mar the blackening of the strops, but a test of the resin deadeye in the blackening fluid has no adverse effect. Once fitted the combination is re- dipped in the blackening.
 
The usual approach would be to make up the sets on the model, Upper link attached to the Deadeye strop, followed by the Lower link, thro’ which the Preventer plate would be pinned.
The lower fixing of the Preventer plate should sit around half way down the wale, with the lower chain link sitting just above the wale top.
 
I found this is not the case, so a tricky job ensues, one that I don’t particularly relish.
My approach will be to use Brass wire (0.5mm ø) to represent the upper chain link. It would prove difficult to modify the kit link because of thicker sections at the top and bottom.

4237a
I first need to make a jig to form the links. There is an excellent ‘how to’ in Volume 11 of  The ffm BY David Antscherl.

4238a
In reality the lengths of the upper links vary to accommodate the increasing angles of the aftermost shrouds.
The jig allows the  size to be adjusted as required, altho’ on Harpy the effect is minimal.

4242a
Strictly speaking the links should be closed but without open slots along the Channel fronts to insert completed strop and chain units, it becomes tricky.

0017
This test  link shows the correct position of the Preventer Plate.

4253a
The link at 8mm in length is 3mm less than the provided kit link.
 
With the masts in place I firstly need to mark the line of the shrouds. The kit shrouds are of 1mm ø black line, but I will be using 0.88mm ø Syren rigging line, which is spot on for scale for the lower shrouds.
I find provided black kit line too stark for my taste and my approach is to use natural line dyed with Dark Jacobean oak wood stain to represent the standing rigging.

4249a
Kit line used to mark the positions of the lower Preventer Plate bolt.
I think I can now proceed.
 
 
B.E.
10/05/2025
 

Post 76
Strops, chains, and plates. – Part two

004
As I noted in Post 73, if I use the deadeye sets as issued the Preventer plates are thrown too far down on the Wale. They should be as per the plan as above.

4226a
I have completed the lower mast Deadeye strop fixing using the replacement Resin Deadeyes.
 
Stropping the Deadeyes does inevitably mar the blackening of the strops, but a test of the resin deadeye in the blackening fluid has no adverse effect. Once fitted the combination is re- dipped in the blackening.
 
The usual approach would be to make up the sets on the model, Upper link attached to the Deadeye strop, followed by the Lower link, thro’ which the Preventer plate would be pinned.
The lower fixing of the Preventer plate should sit around half way down the wale, with the lower chain link sitting just above the wale top.
 
I found this is not the case, so a tricky job ensues, one that I don’t particularly relish.
My approach will be to use Brass wire (0.5mm ø) to represent the upper chain link. It would prove difficult to modify the kit link because of thicker sections at the top and bottom.

4237a
I first need to make a jig to form the links. There is an excellent ‘how to’ in Volume 11 of  The ffm BY David Antscherl.

4238a
In reality the lengths of the upper links vary to accommodate the increasing angles of the aftermost shrouds.
The jig allows the  size to be adjusted as required, altho’ on Harpy the effect is minimal.

4242a
Strictly speaking the links should be closed but without open slots along the Channel fronts to insert completed strop and chain units, it becomes tricky.

0017
This test  link shows the correct position of the Preventer Plate.

4253a
The link at 8mm in length is 3mm less than the provided kit link.
 
With the masts in place I firstly need to mark the line of the shrouds. The kit shrouds are of 1mm ø black line, but I will be using 0.88mm ø Syren rigging line, which is spot on for scale for the lower shrouds.
I find provided black kit line too stark for my taste and my approach is to use natural line dyed with Dark Jacobean oak wood stain to represent the standing rigging.

4249a
Kit line used to mark the positions of the lower Preventer Plate bolt.
I think I can now proceed.
 
 
B.E.
10/05/2025
 

Post 76
Strops, chains, and plates. – Part two

004
As I noted in Post 73, if I use the deadeye sets as issued the Preventer plates are thrown too far down on the Wale. They should be as per the plan as above.

4226a
I have completed the lower mast Deadeye strop fixing using the replacement Resin Deadeyes.
 
Stropping the Deadeyes does inevitably mar the blackening of the strops, but a test of the resin deadeye in the blackening fluid has no adverse effect. Once fitted the combination is re- dipped in the blackening.
 
The usual approach would be to make up the sets on the model, Upper link attached to the Deadeye strop, followed by the Lower link, thro’ which the Preventer plate would be pinned.
The lower fixing of the Preventer plate should sit around half way down the wale, with the lower chain link sitting just above the wale top.
 
I found this is not the case, so a tricky job ensues, one that I don’t particularly relish.
My approach will be to use Brass wire (0.5mm ø) to represent the upper chain link. It would prove difficult to modify the kit link because of thicker sections at the top and bottom.

4237a
I first need to make a jig to form the links. There is an excellent ‘how to’ in Volume 11 of  The ffm BY David Antscherl.

4238a
In reality the lengths of the upper links vary to accommodate the increasing angles of the aftermost shrouds.
The jig allows the  size to be adjusted as required, altho’ on Harpy the effect is minimal.

4242a
Strictly speaking the links should be closed but without open slots along the Channel fronts to insert completed strop and chain units, it becomes tricky.

0017
This test  link shows the correct position of the Preventer Plate.

4253a
The link at 8mm in length is 3mm less than the provided kit link.
 
With the masts in place I firstly need to mark the line of the shrouds. The kit shrouds are of 1mm ø black line, but I will be using 0.88mm ø Syren rigging line, which is spot on for scale for the lower shrouds.
I find provided black kit line too stark for my taste and my approach is to use natural line dyed with Dark Jacobean oak wood stain to represent the standing rigging.

4249a
Kit line used to mark the positions of the lower Preventer Plate bolt.
I think I can now proceed.
 
 
B.E.
10/05/2025