bushman32
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Everything posted by bushman32
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Mike, The Proxxon/MicroLux is made of plastic, but I have not had any problems as far as that is concerned. Ron W.
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The Proxxon is also marketed here in the States by Micro Mark as the Microlux saw. I have had mine for 20 odd years now, and still going strong. With a carbide blade I have cut 3 1/2" thick cherry many times. Saw on one side, flip it over, saw again. My saw has gone through this with no problems. Just feed slowly. With jeweler's blades I have cut strips from thin sheets.The trick is set up and feed rates. What is the thickest wood you plan on sawing? Ron W.
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USS Arizona Picture And History Site
bushman32 replied to thibaultron's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Thanks for posting the site. Ron W. -
sealing a solid hull
bushman32 replied to bushman32's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Actually Tim, the bondo doesn't sound strange. I have been using it to fill in hollows and repairs. Reklein, the model is 3/32 scale or 1:128. Thanks to the both of you for the advice. I have been experimenting on some scrap, basically trying to practice so I don't mess up on the hull. Since I am already using bondo for repairs, I will experiment using it to simulate hull plates. Reklein, we were having the same temps here in the Salt Lake area. These temperatures are feeling pretty good. -
sealing a solid hull
bushman32 replied to bushman32's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Thanks grsjax. -
sealing a solid hull
bushman32 replied to bushman32's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Thanks Jaager. I had also been looking for a way to simulate the hull plates and hadn't thought of Bare Metal Foil. I will use your technique on sealing the wood, then I will try the foil to see if it will work on simulating hull plates. Ron W. -
I need to seal a solid hull, basswood, to look like a steel hull. I am thinking of light coats of gray primer (Rustoleum) with light sanding between coats. Does this seem like a doable plan? Ron W.
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If you go with a Dremel, I would go with what will fit aftermarket accessories. You can somewhat use a drill press for light wood milling, but a few things you need to know. A drill press isn't designed to withstand the forces in milling and a drill bit isn't designed to be an end mill. If you are going to hollow out, drill out as much as you can first. Ron W.
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A lot of great ideas for his project. If you get a Dremel rotary tool, Vanda-Lay Industries makes a lot of accessories for it. You can set it up as a small mill, lathe, drill press, and other things. You should go ahead an get a decent set of chisels and gouges. Rotary tool can't make inside cuts square. Ron W.
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If you use a band saw you will need to use a jig in order to have the depth of cuts equal on all sides. I would go with hollowing out the hull. Use a depth gage to make sure the port and stbd sides of the deck are even with the top of the bulwarks. Along the quarterdeck and poopdeck make a shelf for deck beams. Which ever way you go I suggest shaping the exterior of the hull first. This way you can see what you have to play with. Ron W.
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Don't forget to tin the tip before using. This helps the heat transfer from the iron to the part being soldered. Ron W.
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They had an ad for Roy Hancock ship models as well.
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A friend of mine showed me a good way to stretch sprue. Heat one end, stick it to a table and pull. I found it easier than heating the middle of a sprue in the middle and stretching the two ends apart.
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I agree with the stretch sprue. Use CA glue, you don't want model glue melting the sprue.
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a question for Sherline mill owners
bushman32 replied to rtropp's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Right handed and ditto everything that has been posted so far. -
Brush a little glosscote where the decals will go, and of course let it dry. Since this will give the area a smooth surface it will be easier to position the decals. Some people say to put decal set on the model before placing the decal. I found that the decal set limits your time to get the decal positioned properly. So I use a lot of water. After positioning and drying up excess water I then use setting solution. After all is dry, give a clear coat to seal it in. Ron W.
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How is the railings coming?
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Thanks Scott, I appreciate your help on this.
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Thanks Scott. Did you add the block above the plug, or remove the plug and add the block the full height of the stern? One thing though is that guys who have added the block found, I believe it is the 01 level too short. Have you run into this problem? Chris, I do belong to the Olympia forum and was hoping Al would chime in. D'Brat, thanks. I hope I don't mess this up.
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Shoot, I am hoping someone has built it. I am having a problem with the deck plans.
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I was wondering if anyone here has built, or is building, Blue Jacket's USS Olympia?
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Are you building a kit that is double planked? If you are they will have wood for the 2nd layer. Take time to makes sure the hull is smooth and symmetrical. Any defects on the 1st layer will show on the 2nd layer.
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It was hard enough for me to do it on full size line when I was in the Navy! That looks real good, I will be sending you all my lines that need an eye splice.
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Is it twistesd to the side along the keel?
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Kimberely, There is running rigging attached to the yards as well. They are used to move the yards from side to side and raise and lower the yards. If the line goes through a block, it is running rigging. There are alot of good books that descibes rigging. When I get a chance I will post a list of my references. You can also download some of David Steel's works on rigging for free. If you don't know who Steel is, he published several works on ship construction in the late 18th and early 19th century, so his work covers this time period. If you want mid 18th century the look for Mungo Murray. These guys lived during these time periods, so there work is first hand knowledge. They were wriiten in the English of the time so it does take a little getting used too. Ron W.
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