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bushman32
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Everything posted by bushman32
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It was hard enough for me to do it on full size line when I was in the Navy! That looks real good, I will be sending you all my lines that need an eye splice.
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Is it twistesd to the side along the keel? -
Kimberely, There is running rigging attached to the yards as well. They are used to move the yards from side to side and raise and lower the yards. If the line goes through a block, it is running rigging. There are alot of good books that descibes rigging. When I get a chance I will post a list of my references. You can also download some of David Steel's works on rigging for free. If you don't know who Steel is, he published several works on ship construction in the late 18th and early 19th century, so his work covers this time period. If you want mid 18th century the look for Mungo Murray. These guys lived during these time periods, so there work is first hand knowledge. They were wriiten in the English of the time so it does take a little getting used too. Ron W.
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Daniel, I use Uni Thread, Ron W.
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Graham, There is a modeler's book on the HMS Warspite. Try Freetime Hobbies, Squadron Hobbies, or if you are on the wrong side of the pond White Ensign Models for the book. Ron W.
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Kimberely, I also use fly tying thread, it comes in various diameters including very small. However it also comes in flat threads, so make sure you buy the round threads. Larger lines for sailing ships I make my own on my rope walk, Morope makes excellent rope for this. A lot of lines will sag due to humidity and natural stretching. What I do is soak my lines in water, then let them hang with a weight tied to them ( I give them a couple of days). This will take the stretchiness (is this a word?) out of them. Run the lines through a cake of beeswax and melt it into the line. Some people use the friction of their fingers rubbing the line to do this, or run it close to a 100 watt light bulb. I don't recommend a candle because it is too easy to burn the line. The beeswax will also eliminate any fuzzies. Ron W.
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Fly tying thread comes that small and is strong enough to work with, just make sure you get the round thread because they also have flat thread. Anyone need a lot of flat thread? Ron W.
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I started using resistance soldering and I love it. I can even use it to solder metal on plastic models. Micro Mark sells a couple of units, one of which is very economical. I only recommend if you plan on doing a lot of soldering though. Ron W.
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Pillar description
bushman32 replied to allanyed's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I searched everything I could think of and couldn't find anything. Is Steel talking about the pillars used to support the middle of deck beams? Ron W. -
Jud thanks for the clarification on that. Ron W.
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CA glue and metal fittings
bushman32 replied to cdogg's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
The thin CA does absorb quickly into the wood, sometimes not leaving any glue to bond anything. If the wood has been sealed, I use thin CA. If not, then I use thick CA. This is when I am too lazy to mix up epoxy, which is much better. Model cement wouldn't work because it is designed to melt the plastic joins together. Wood glue, as with model cement, won't have any effect on metal parts. Make sure that you metal is completely clean. There will be oils on it, not only from the machining process but your fingers as well, that will effect glues. Ron W. -
I couldn't find anything definate in my references, but I looked at photos of HMS Victory's port tackles and they show untarred seizing. Ron W.
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Both were a big help Antony, I appreciate it. I am going to give this a try and see how I do. Ron W.
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Just be careful on the stress you put on the eyebolts and the "rings" or strops they have on the blocks as they can break easily. By the way, those strops should be a different color than the blocks. Black would represent either iron bound or tarred rope strops. Ron W.
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If you are talking about rounding off the cheek sides (breadth) in to the face (thickness), I built a little clamp out of a clothes pin. I shaped the end to accomodate a block, then between the jaws and spring I epoxied a bolt going through both jaws, using a small wingnut to tighten. I then shapen the block with a course sanding stick. After shaping, I put the all the blocks into a rock tumbler lined with 100 grit sandpaper (including the bottom of the can) to finish it out. Using a tumbler takes some time so be patient. I also like to put in a little bit of the tumblers course grit in there. It gives the blocks a weathered look. Process does take time and I am confident someone has an easier solution. Ron W.
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How to do deck edging?
bushman32 replied to SpencerC's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Spencer, That edge plank is called the margin plank. There will also be waterways that is much narrower, sits on top of the margin plank and it butted up against the bulwarks. I do the same technique as Jim and Ray does. I have found it helpful to score where the cuts are with the back (unsharpened) side of a #11 X-Acto knife first. I do several light scores, not one deep one. This helps the blade to stay on track when you do the actual cutting. Ron W. -
They are looking really good. I cheat though, I turn the shape of the barrel, mark out the staves, then scribe them, then add the rings with thick black construction paper. I am going to try your technique, but how do you cut the wedges? Ron W.
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Household Ammonia
bushman32 replied to Q A's Revenge's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I have heard that it will bleach out walnut. Ron W. -
I prefer to fill in between the bulkheads for the reasons others have stated plus it helps in fairing the hull. Also I don't like double planking, and the wood supplied usually bites, so I mill my own planks and having the spaces filled in helps with single planking. Ron W.
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