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About Borborygm

  • Birthday 05/09/1948

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Maryland, USA
  • Interests
    Ship Modeling, Photography

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  1. I read this thread again and now agree with Derek's suggestion--remove number of posts from icon but show it in the profile. Cy
  2. I think Pat put it exactly right. The really important concept here is quality of contribution and neither number of posts or likes has anything to do with that. I definitely think likes should be turned off and the whole idea of trying to rate "reputation" abandoned. Members will know valuable contribution when they see it. I'm torn about number of posts however. I have been a member of MSW for years but have few posts for a number of reasons. I only have one completed model in my signature, a novice one at that, but I have many more in various stages of completion and
  3. I did a post on this same problem last November. Altduck recommended doing exactly what you are thinking of. I haven't gotten to the point of carving the rebate because I am still fairing the hull (and thanks to you, I'm going back and adding filler blocks as you did). I think your and Altduck's solution will work well and I intend to use it. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/14706-problem-with-kit-planking-stock-dimensions/
  4. I am building the LN myself and have been pondering the name issue. The historically accurate "generic cutter from the 1800s" certainly lacks glamour and wouldn't fit well on the transom. In thinking about this, I concluded that if you asked Lord Nelson himself what name he would prefer, it would be Emma. At the risk of being irreverent, that is what I have named her. Sorry, Mrs. Hamilton, no disrespect intended.
  5. Hi Simon. Thanks for doing this build log. I'm building the LN as well and am currently finishing up fairing the bulkheads. The next step is gluing on the bulwark strips. I am concerned about the strength of the glue joint because, other than at the stern where the strips are glued to the outer stern counter frames, the joint will only be along the edge of the deck, which is only 1 mm thick. Also, the strips may be under a little stress at the bow because of the bending required to follow the hull. How secure was your attachment? Based on your experience, do you think my concern is mis
  6. Point of clarification, I will not be butchering any rabbits as I implied in my first post. I will be cutting the rabbet joint, also known as a rebate...and getting a check in the mail?
  7. I'm building the LN myself but not doing a build log because I'm using Bob Hunt's LN dvd practicum and promised not to divulge his techniques. I'm not too far ahead of you so I will give you some non-Hunt tips if I can and also inform you of my errors as I discover them. I've almost finished fairing the bulkheads; next step is cutting the rabbit joint. I'm curious about the model shown in your clamp photo. Why are the bulkhead tops cut off at that stage? How will the bulwarks be attached? Cy
  8. The model is 3/16" to the foot. 2 mm thick planking would equate to 5 inches, which is not realistic. This doesn't really matter though; the issue is whether to change the outer hull dimensions or not. Going with 1 mm planking on each side would reduce the maximum beam of the model from 100 to 98 mm (equivalent to going from 21 ft to 20 ft 7 full size), a slight difference. As Rick pointed out, this model is not based on a real cutter so there is no accuracy to adhere to. At this point, I am leaning toward using the thinner planking stock instead of trying to carve a stepped bevel. Th
  9. Perfect, and so easy. Thanks, Richard. I think that my modeling problem-solving skills have gotten rusty.
  10. Now that I am largely retired, I have the time and inclination to get back to my long-neglected in-progress models. I am working on the Victory Models' Lady Nelson. I am nearly done fairing the hull but have encounterd a problem I could use some advice on. The LN is double-planked and the kit includes 1 mm X 4 mm limewood strips for the first layer and 1 mm X 4 mm walnut strips for the second. I am at the point in the fairing for drawing a bearding line at the stern and tapering the false keel to create a rebate (correct term?) for the plank ends to rest in. The problem is that the false
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