steamschooner

Nils, Here is a page from; Smoke Ash and Steam by R. Sheret  That show the different parts of a windlass. Windless having wildcats for chain handling. Cargo winches do not have wildcats just drums and gypsys

Thank you all for visiting my humble shipyard and clicking on the like button.
 
Thank you Amazon Dirk, Lawrence, Patrick and Popeye Denis for your encouraging comments.  Orders for anchors?  Yuns think you can afford my prices?        Good to see you Dirk, hope all's well with you and your project.
 
I didn't have much time yesterday to post anything, besides there was really nothing worthwhile to post.  The weather has been just too chilly and windy here in Palm Coast, Florida so my stay in the garage - aka shipyard - was brief.  The same for today, still too cold for me and I didn't feel like punishing my delicate old bod if I don't have to.  Did I ever tel all f you that I HATE cold weather?  Well, I HATE cold weather.
 
The only thing I did yesterday was put some primer on the anchor and made the stock.  After the primer was dry I installed the stock, cut the bolts from 1 mm brass rod, drilled the bolt holes, mixed some slow cure epoxy cement and installed the bolts. 
I also cut a small piece of boxwood out of some stock I have for the counter decoration.  That piece is 40 X 65 X 5 mm - I wanted to keep the carving reasonably small so as not to be overpowering.  This will also give me the space to add some more decorative things on the sides, bottom and top.  The stern area will require quite a few carvings to hide the intentionally kept bare areas for that purpose.
 
On my dentist visit yesterday he have me about 6 small burs.  One is a tungsten carbide bit and the rest are diamond studded.  They are tiny, thus very good for carving the mane on the bow lion.
 
Today I moved some of my things inside and finished the small "stern anchor" in the breakfast nook where it was nice and warm.  I could look outside at my koy pond and do some work in the warmth.
So I filed all the bolts down to just above the wood to give it the feel and appearance of hammered heads.  I already put the little jar of flat black paint inside to let it come to room temperature.  The first thing was using the toothpick trick to put some flat black on the bolts.  Let it dry and then brushed the flat black on the anchor and put it aside to let the paint dry.   That gave me the chance to have some lunch and let the paint dry.
 
After lunch I put the oak stain on the stock  and put it aside to dry.  Gwen, who doesn't want to be called the Admiral, said that she really liked the anchor, it's better then the first two, she said.  So, okay, I'm a happy camper   Looks like that I'll be making a few more, ummm, for myself though
 
Next thing was that I transferred the drawing of the Sura and Buaya battle to that little piece of wood  and proceeded to cut it out with the Proxxon jigsaw.  I left a handle like piece at the top end to have something to hold on to.   I like to hold the parts I work on between my fingers, that way I have a better feel of what I'm doing.
 
Well, that's it or now and below are a few pics of my accomplishments for two days work.  Hope you like it.
 

The completed "stern" anchor for the Surabaya.
 

This is the sketch for the counter carving.   It's the visual depiction of a legend about a shark, called the Sura who fought with a salt water crocodile, the Buaya, for supremacy of the Kali Mas and the river delta.  The word kali means river in the Indonesian language and that's the place where the city called Surabaya was established.  It's the city where I was born and raised, a really nice place - at that time - ergo, the name of this model. 
 

This shows the rough cut-out for the carving.  This will be a real challenge for me, it'll be my fist attempt at carving.  Wish me luck.
 
Cheers,

Five strakes a side are completed now. Note that I had to pare back the extreme ends of the plug so that the planks would run smoothly into the rabbet fore and aft. With this hull form the spiled planks are only slightly curved, except at the stern.

Thanks for all the likes.
 
Build part 31
 
Thinking about the curved deck planks and the issues of bending wood along the wide dimension I thought I would see if I could split a square section along its length after it was curved.
 
I used the heat gun to bend the Costello and then checked the curve I did leave a little spring in the wood.
 

 

 
Then using the jewelers saw I cut it along its length, my saw seems to set the blade very slightly out of perfect alignment with the frame which makes it easy to cut a long piece. this was the longest single cut I have ever made with a jewelers saw, it cut very well.
 

 

 
I will use this same technique for the rest of the planks.
 
Michael

Thanks for all the likes.
 
Build part 30
 
Today I made a start on the cover-boards they are cut from some left over mahogany coaming from Maria, the off cut already had the curve of the sheer a happy coincidence.
 
The rough cut
 

 
After further thinning to 3/4" thickness
 

 
Michael

Thanks everyone for dropping by in my humble shipyard and all the likes, I'm overwhelmed.
 
Thank you Michael, yes, I'm pleased with how they came out. 
 
Hello Mark, thanks for dropping in and for your very kind word.  That's one of the reasons why we should look at others work - it pushes us to emulate the inspiring work of others.   We also learn new things, how other people have solved problems or are using materials we are not familiar with.  I am inspired by what I see being done on this forum.
 
Hoi Carl, yes, working with hot metal does make it easier but  by the time I get the hot bar to the anvil and then on it it cools off very quickly, thus a waste of time.  The bend is really not that much and cold working the bar at this size works quite well.      
If I'm going to make three more anchors as Hans is teasing me with, I may just give it a try.  I can set the torch nearby and heat it up between the hammer whacking. Or let Gwen hold the torch to keep the bar hot
 
 
Well okay, so after I came back from the dentist and had some lunch I decided to drill the three 1 mm holes in the parts, make the two flukes and solder all the metal parts together.  Tomorrow I'll finish dressing it down some more, make the rope ring and stock. 
 
Here is the evidence of this afternoon's 2 hour work session.  Hope yuns like it.
 

 
Cheers,
 

Three strakes a side completed now. Rubber bands and small soldering clips make fine hold-downs while roughly shaped planks are drying out.

Thanks for the likes and visits.
 
After a slicing through a few hoops, I thought that a couple of pics of the sequence might be useful. I did find that the best way to cut the rings was to go round the perimeter a few times this ensures that the cut is even.
 

 

 
the rings were sanded with a simple sanding fixture in a circular motion
 

 

 
Checking for the correct thickness
 

 
next the rounding is done with a sanding stick.
 
Michael

Thanks for the kind remarks and the likes.
 
build part 29
 
I made the mast today, I decided on a cedar one, it was a matter of having the right piece with the right grain. it is also quite light but strong. Strong enough for a model and I particularly like the colour.
 

 

 
I made the mast step from some 1 1/2 mahogany and cut a 2 1/2 inch x 4 inch recess 1/2 inch deep
 

 
the blocking is also now installed port and starboard, I still need a block aft of the mast. then I can begin installing the deck planks.
 
Michael
 
 

Update
 
I`m planing the arrangement for the staggered two breakwater barriers, the the elevated guide / slide rails for the heavy anchor stud link chains, the two large forecastle capstan winches with incorporated horizontal turning chain sprocket wheels. These wheels will get a 180° wrap angle, before the chains are led down through the deck into the chain hold.
Thanks to Peter (Mr. Hollom) there is a lovely photo of this detail on the actual ship, also showing the outcuts for the chain guide rails in the upper section of the second breakwater, next to the mighty capstans in the background.
 
The chain sprocket grooves ought to be made from castings, but because that is beyond my capability, I made a dummy from a wooden dowel, in order to determine the geometrie, of diameter, groove size, etc. to close fit the chain links well in a 180° wrap. The chain is also a dummy, until I receive the ordered stud link chain in same dimensions
 
An earlier little failure in planing caused quite a lot of fiddily recovering work : the forecastle railings should have been mounted after the two breakwaters are fixed in place. Now I ca`nt make them in one piece, I just do`nt get them stuck in and through the railing (now made in two halves....., wich ca`nt be soldered sufficiently without damaging the deck. Have to find a solution on this feature later on
 
Nils
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

update
 
Build log part 30
 
today I`m starting with the forecastle railing, 8mm high in scale 1:144.
Base for soldering on is a L-shape brass profile, the railing is from 0,3 mm thick photoetched copper, the soldering is done with the small gas tourch, electronic solder and paste-typ flux
 
The brass L-profile is gently bent to follow the rim of the deck planking
 
Nils
 

 
L-type profile
 
 

 
0,3 mm photoetched copper railing
 
 

 
Shaping / bending the L-profile
 
 

 
 

 
positioning for to solder, little bits of solder every 15 mm appart
 
 

 
carefuly handling the heat flow.....
 
 

 
soldering done, and primercoat applied
 
 

 
the aft side (forecastle) still needs to be dressed
 
 

  trust this shall be a sufficient way of fastening the railing  
 

 
 
 
   
 
 
 

Thanks for the visits and likes.
 
build part 28
 
The experiment is a go as far as I am concerned I need to make 10 more.
 
step 2 was to cut the ring in half which I did with the jewelers saw with a #3 blade (very fine)
 

 
the next step was to rough shape it with a sanding stick with some 220 wet and dry
 

 
this was then coloured with a Prismacolor dark brown felt marker, then polished up with some Trewax a clear carnauba paste wax.
 

 
I hung it on a varnished paint brush handle to see it is a context.
 
Michael

First of all to all who visited and clicked the like button my sincerest thaks and secondly -
 
Thanks to George for your very kind words, I think these anchors will do.
 
And Hans, thank you too for your kudos, much appreciated.  Hmmm, 6 anchors total on board?  Well now, I think I'll leave it at three though.
I'm in the process on number three - this one'll be smaller and I'll call it "stern anchor."  Well, one never knows what this crazy Dutchman may do in the future.  I thought there were three brass bars in the package I ordered but there was only one.  The price is okay but the shipping brings it to about $12 for a package.  I can get only three anchors out of one bar.
 
 
It's still rather chilly here in Florida, 55F in the morning.  So after breakfast I spend some time reading my new book on the "Valkenisse."  Very interesting book where Ron Napier describes his work on the restoration of that model.
After an hour reading I made a working sketch for the third anchor.  I had a short piece of the 3.2 mm brass bar left over that worked out exactly right.  Without further ado I ventured out into the garage, aka shipyard, to start work on the third anchor.
 
I chucked the bar into the four jaw lathe chuck, centered it and proceeded to make the square bar round to 2.5 mm.  I had to really work very slowly because the bar was sticking out to about 55 mm and not supported.  It worked okay but finalized the diameter with a file.  The 1 mm pin on the end was equally testy but that too worked okay.  I don't advice anyone doing this, the bar or rod is just too springy and the chance for the cutting tool running underneath the bar is just too risky.
That 1 mm pin will go into a 1 mm hole in the center of the arm to fasten the two parts together.
 
In any case, I lucked out again
 
After lunch I started on making the arm.  I decided against making it from round stock - didn't have aby anyway - and used the left over part of the 3.2 mm bar.  My thinking was to make it look like a forged oval piece of iron.
So first I had to reduce the 3.2 mm bar to about 2.5 mm or a smidgen larger and pre-shape it to a slight bend.  This required a lot of filing but it made the actual bending easier when I had to do it by using the persuader tool (hammer) with the piece in the bench vice. The final shaping with the hammer was done on the vice anvil.
 
Then came the dressing of the piece to shape it the way I wanted with files.  It's not done yet but I think it's beginning to look satisfactory.  The ends of the arm still needs to be have the cut-outs filed in for the flukes, then all the 1 mm holes drilled in the pertinent locations.
Hopefully tomorrow I can solder the metal parts together after my dentist visit.  I'll keep all yuns posted for sure.
 
I'm really enjoying this little project!  :)
 

Working sketch for the "stern anchor." 
 

This shows the rough formed arm and started with the shaping using various sizes of files.
 

Here we see a little more progress in the shaping where I also started with the oval shape.
 
Cheers,
 
 

The second strake is in on the port side. One can see the gain at the bow and stern, as well as how the boat keeps its shape when taken off the plug. From here on it is simply a matter of spiling and shaping each plank as I work up (down!) to the sheer strake. All one need do is make sure to conform to the mark-out on the plug.

Mark: if you have detail photos of the interior of the forward part of that vessel and near the tiller, posting those would be very helpful. Thanks for the kind offer.
 
Yes, these crafts were very lightly built but surprisingly strong. Think of them as predecessors of today's 'eights' rowing shells.
 
These two photos show how the lap disappears into the rabbet at the bow. The second strake also has a rolling bevel that fits the one on the edge of the first strake. You can also see that there is no gap along the lap, as the bevel that was sanded in takes care if this. PVA glue was applied with a very small brush and any excess cleaned up immediately.

Bob, Been there done that ! I stopped work on a model and stripped it back to the main deck . Some research showed up that had showed me how some things where wrong.
Your build is looking good!

Bob, Been there done that ! I stopped work on a model and stripped it back to the main deck . Some research showed up that had showed me how some things where wrong.
Your build is looking good!

While waiting for things to dry I remembered a method I used for something else regarding some mast hoops.
 
So an experiment to test the strength and look of some laminated hoops.
 
I have a large roll of Butchers tape or Gummed paper. I cut the paper into 4 strips aprox 1/4 inch wide by 3 feet long.
 

 
I discovered that the green highlighter pen is very slightly tapered, almost imperceptible this worked to my advantage by allowing the loop to become wedged after a couple of turns.
 
I glued the strip on so that the glue was on the outside which made it easy to moisten.
 

 

 
tomorrow when it is good and set I will see how it cleans up and whether it will work as a ring. I might end up making them just a little larger then cutting them with a scarph joint and using a copper rivet.
 
Michael

Thanks for all the likes and comments.
 
build part 27
 
I fitted all the main forward deck beams and half lapped in a centre beam. I will need to finish the inside of the forward compartment and mast step before gluing this all together.
 

 

 

 
following is a plan of the deck planking they are 1 1/2 inches wide and will follow the deck line and but into a king plank
 

 
Michael

Build part 26
 
Just to try my hand in something a little different after reading about Dave's wonderful carving work on his Sovereign of the Seas.
I realized that a nameplate might be an easy start not having done this sort of work.
 
I used a small piece of my English boxwood as much as anything for the contrast in woods it is also a bit crisper and more dense than the Costello
 
I began with the letters as simple incised ones.
 

 
it is about an inch long.
 

 
After what seemed like half a day about 5hours in total I used a bit of double sided tape to see how it looks on the forward bulkhead.
 

 

 
I think that I will leave the carving for those more suited to it, it was challenging and I constantly worried about chopping off the end of my thumb. it was all accomplished with a trusty number 11 Exacto blade.
 
michael

Thanks for the comments and likes.
 
build part 25
 
The first picture shows the bending of the coaming stringer being, I used the heat gun instead of the steam box for this and it worked quite nicely and was much faster than the steaming.
 

 
Next the stringer is placed and held with the single clamp there was no spring in the piece and it located as I had hoped. Once this is glued and all the short cross pieces added I will add some dowels to give added strength.
 

 
The short frames are now glued in place on the port side, and being prepared for fitting on  the starboard.
 

 
Finally they are sanded ready for the dowels, then the deck.
 

 

 
Michael

Well, let's see, what is it today - -  oh yeah, Saturday evening. I managed to complete both main anchors yesterday afternoon.  Put the bolts in the stock, left all pf them with just a skootch sticking above the wood to simulate the upset and painted them flat black.  After the paint had dried I stained the wood in oak because I think that's what they used in those days.  Now the stocks look like those on the photos of the various Dutch ships.  thanks Jan for pointing it out to me.
 
For the smaller anchor I plan to chuck the square brass bar in the lathe and turn the shank round but leaving the top end square.  I still have some round brass rod for the arm so that one will be close to scale as well.  Need to hunt for an example first, make a drawing and start work.
 
Here are two pics of the completed main anchors.  Hope yuns approve.
 

 

 
Cheers,

Hi folks
 
Thanks for all of your comments and Likes!
 
Well, I'll be damned!  These Caterpillar C32 Marine Diesels are going to be the death of me!  I've already built one engine, along with some pipework and I've come to the conclusion that I need Igor and Piet's skills to make a real go at it.  But, at slightly less than a centimetre long, let's be realistic about how much detail I can actually add to them.
 
I've persevered, though and, have come up with something that looks relatively realistic (well, to me, anyway!).  Please bear in mind that the painting still needs to be done.
 
Please see the photos below.  
 
Cheers and all the best!
 
Patrick

Bob, Been there done that ! I stopped work on a model and stripped it back to the main deck . Some research showed up that had showed me how some things where wrong.
Your build is looking good!

Bob, Been there done that ! I stopped work on a model and stripped it back to the main deck . Some research showed up that had showed me how some things where wrong.
Your build is looking good!