Chuck Seiler

Don't forget the Harold Hahn plans still sold by his family.

This pic shows me inserting the peg in the stem piece. I had originally wanted to use 2 pegs, but it did not work out.
 
My comic-sans font seems not to be working. :-(

Ensure the work surface is thoroughly clean.  Also, ensure the two surfaces to be soldered MUST be touching.  Unlike low temp soldering, silver solder does not bridge the gap. 

We could use it for signal flags.  "England expects.....".  We could utilize the whole SDSMG fleet for that one.

Planking is done.  If I want to pull the planks off and fix the planking, now is the time.  Otherwise, it's time to remove the bulkhead centers.
 


 
    I decided to use a Dremel with cutoff wheel for this.  Caution is important to avoid any damage to exterior planking.
 
    As indicated by others, even though the model is very delicate at this point, it is surprisingly sturdy.  Extra care must be taken here.  As I sand down the insides of the frames, the structure becomes weaker.  Once you start adding things to the interior, it becomes stronger again.

Completed planking and a low tech waterline marker.
 

 
   Another view of the exterior planking and waterline marker.  The trunnels are easier to see in this pic.  I originally planned to use bamboo trunnels, but later decided just to fill the holes using wood filler (based on other peoples experiences).  Rather than the prescribed 2 trunnels per frame, I went with alternating 1-2-1-2 pattern.

For many years my only power tool was a dremel.  I did get the Dremel drill press.  As somebody mentioned, it is not that great, but it does most of what Iwant it to do.  If I had to do over...
 
    A couple years ago I got the Byrnes Saw (Jim hates when you call it that).  It is great, I LOVE it.  It allows me to do some things more precisely than if done by hand...and other things I could never do before.  I am mor einto kit bashing and scratch building now, but I think that was due to the addition of the tool.  Note:  Any mini table saw with the same properties would be equally helpful, but I really like the precision the B-Saw gives with the micrometer function.

Masting Update:
 
After acquiring the requisite diminutive drill bits I was able to continue towards completion of the longboat, but I must admit, that this phase is completely alien to me, as I have always given rigging a wide berth on any plastic kit that I have ever worked on..  And I am finding the learning curve on seizing blocks, and making sure that lines run straight to be rather steep.  After the first round I am happy with how the mast and bow spirit came out, but the sheet tackle needs reworked.  I knew it wasn't going to work right when I first seized the block to the horse, which didn't sit right.  So I will be re-doing that part in the near future.
 
One tip that I can perhaps pass on, a helpful to me, trick for getting the holes through the brass mast fittings.  Even with an awl, I was at first having problems with getting the necessary sized hole in the fitting.  So, I made the fitting wider by striking it with a small hammer.  I didn't need to work it very much because the brass is soft. but it gave me some extra room to work.  Once the hole was drilled, and the CA set, I ground the excess material off with a rotary tool.

The rest of the bulkheads went on without any problem, and were beveled.  I decided to leave the transom off until the garboard strake and first two broadstrakes are attached to the hull.  Like Toni, I decided to use the tick-strip method for planking the model.  In the photo, the distance from the rabbet to the top of a bulkhead is being marked off.

 
I then located the corresponding bulkhead on the plans, and lined the strip up with the top of that bulkhead.  The sheerline was then marked on the strip.

 
The distance between the sheerline and the bottom of the strip was divided into eaqual segments by using what I call a "planking grid." I think it's also referred to as a "diminishing grid."  I opted to plank my hull with thirteen strakes per side.  I just felt that it would allow for a little more wood on each kit-supplied strip during the spiling process.  Hopefully, the reduction of each plank by 1/12th won't be that noticeable.

 
The tick marks were then transfered to the corresponding bulkheads. Planking is next.

Completed planking and a low tech waterline marker.
 

 
   Another view of the exterior planking and waterline marker.  The trunnels are easier to see in this pic.  I originally planned to use bamboo trunnels, but later decided just to fill the holes using wood filler (based on other peoples experiences).  Rather than the prescribed 2 trunnels per frame, I went with alternating 1-2-1-2 pattern.

You guys are starting to embarrass me.  But if you want to give credit where credit is really due you should be talking about my wife Donna who is actually the owner of the company. 
 
 For those of you that don't know we started Model Machines about 10 years ago on a part time basis.  Just the two of us,  no other employees to worry about. At that time we were both working another full time job at a design and manufacturing firm in Orlando that I was part owner of.  I was head of the machine shop with 3 other partners and Donna was hired as the controller.  The company was in bad shape finantially when we hired Donna and in a year or so she brought the company back from the edge and made it a profitable business again.  Donna has a 4 year business degree from the University of Indiana and there isn't a lot she doesn't know about the business world.  What she doesn't know she makes it her business to find out.  When we started Model Machines she did all the research to get the company up and running and also thought up the name of the company.  She does all the taxes,  pays all the bills,  does all the paper work and keeps everything running smoothly.   I design all the machines and make all the parts,  do the assembly and ship them out. 
 
When you call us with a problem or an order more than likely you talked to her and 99% of the time she can take care of your needs whether it's replacement parts,  lost screws, diagnosing an electrical problem, delivery times or just how things work.  She is on the ball and has you covered.  She is the one who emails you when your stuff ships,  calls you when your address has changed and generally makes sure you get what you need when you need it.  If it was my job to do all that no doubt we would be out of business a long time ago.    She is the boss.  
 
And to this day it remains,  just the two of us.
 
regards
Jim Byrnes
Model Machines

From my discussions with Jim many years ago at an NRG conference, I got the impression he was a machinist that was also a modeler.  He found a niche and filled it.  ...and he understands our needs.

Ben,
 
Thanks. I found it. Model looks great!!! I will have to spend more time looking at it and learning. I see yo umanaged to break off the stempiece as well. 'Tis a pesky little beastie.

Jason,
 
   Welcome to the build and welcome to woodmodeling.  You will find that wood has it's challenges and it's rewards.  The rewards far outway the challenges.  ...plus, when you REALLY get frustrated and throw the whole danged thing into the fireplace, it burns cleaner.
 
   Great work so far and great progress.  You might be new to wood models, but it is obvious you are a skilled modeler.

I originally started my build log on 21 December 2012.  I know this because I started it with “Thankfully
the world did not end today, so I can proceed. I would hate to get halfway into it only to go “POOF””  Well, apparently
it took a little longer but ‘the world’ ended and we now get to put it back together.  Thank heaven for notes!!!!  If
anybody is taking a gander here before taking on this project I hope to provide
some helpful thoughts and observations. 
 
    This project involves the Model Shipways ‘18th Century Longboat”.   It’s a great project.  It appears to be simple and somewhat straight forward but the planking makes it a challenge.  This is a single layer planking with both interior and exterior exposed to view.  The planking is quite thin, leaving very little room for error.  This is an excellent model to hone your planking skills.  Plans are excellent.
 
    Once your ‘basic shell’ (more on that later) is set up I find that I can easily remove a plank/strake that does not work out and try again.  (I have done a bit of work on the model since I originally wrote this.  I DID have to remove a strake or two and try again.  It is very forgiving.)  Here goes!!

Hello all! I am back. I jusat found out yesterday that the site went down completely, so I have spent some time getting back onboard and navigating the site. I will go thru my notes and attempt to re-create my build log. Comments welcome.

Hello all! I am back. I jusat found out yesterday that the site went down completely, so I have spent some time getting back onboard and navigating the site. I will go thru my notes and attempt to re-create my build log. Comments welcome.