Moonbug

Your attention to detail on your rigging is fantastic. I really appreciate you sharing all the detailed photos and explaining everything. It's really helping me understand how it's done. I'm doing my first rigging on a simple schooner and this really helps. Thank you. 

Great job. I really appreciate how much detail you are adding with the rigging.

Well, we already know there are a number of different variants to rigging depending on the time frame, ship size, and even author of reference material.  That is no less true with the yard tackle pendants, tackle falls, and the tricing lines. In short, the yard tackles are used to haul materials aboard the ship and the tricing lines are used to secure those tackles when not in use.  There doesn't seem to be much debate as to the fact that the yard tackles are stowed when not in use, or that the tackles (that end in a block and hook) are stowed against the futtock shrouds in most cases. This method is illustrated In both Lees as well as shown on contemporary models.  The tackle itself is 2.5" (.30mm) line with a 9" (3.5mm) single block stopped with a hook at the lower end of the fall. The standing end of the tackle starts with the single block, runs through the smaller end of the yard tackle violin block (on the pendant) back up through the single with the hook, down through the larger end of the violin, then back up to coil and hold fast at the futtocks.
 

  
    I then coated all the parts with diluted pva and hung clips about to help it hang naturally. Notice the above image contains the outer tricing line. Let me address that. First, the tricing lines are all .15mm line. There are a couple of different variations of what to do with them. According to the FFM, the outer tricing line attaches to the end of the yard pendant's violin block, runs through the outer tricing line block, then up to at cleat at the mast cap.  I ran this line and it looks really funky to me and just begged being fouled. It also seems pretty impractical in terms of actually manipulating the tricing line. 
    Lees has the tricing line for the fore yard going through the outer block and then "belaying to the fore topsail sheer bitts next to the upright."  That's what I've done here:
 
 
 
While this appears to be much more functional in terms of usage - it still looks really awkward with the line crossing the entire fore deck as it descends from the yard to the bitt.  Then, I consulted Marquardt's Eighteenth Century Rigs & Rigging where on page 73 he says "the outer tricing line was spliced to the upper strop of the [violin block] ran through the lead block fastened to the yard ... then through another [block] at the catharpins height lashed to the shrouds to belay finally in the lower shrouds."   This arrangement is the one that resonated with me the most compared to the other two and is eminently functional and practical. So I removed the line pictured above, attached the single block (using a 2.5mm) to the shrouds at the catharpins and ran the outer tricing line as described.
 
 
 
The outer tricing is belayed to the second shroud cleat leaving the outer one for the inner tricing line.  The inner line is run based on the FFM's description - attached to the tackle at the single block with the hook, run through the inner block on the yard, then down to the outer shroud cleat.
 
 
 
The main yard  is a mirror of the fore yard. Here are some additional photos showing the layout with the new single block attached to the shroud at the catharpins for the outer tricing line and then each element of both tricing lines finally belaying on the shroud cleats.
 
 
 
 
 

 
Here's a reverse angle with notations.
 

 
 

As with the bow (i.e. the Spritsail yard) the aft of the ship has a significant difference between the kit directions and the Fully Framed Model. The kit shows both a driver gaff and a driver boom. However, the FFM only shows a driver gaff - this is the option I'm going to employ.
 
   Before raising the gaff it has to be adorned with blocks just like the other yards. In this case there are 11 total.  Despite the slight difference in sizes (4", 5" & 6"), I'm choosing to use 2.5 mm for all the blocks except the throat halliard block - which is 7" (3.5mm) and should be noticeably larger. The difference between the smaller blocks is a half mm or less at this scale (not easily differentiated by the naked eye), and I'm running low on the smaller blocks.   Aside from the throat halliard block, there are three pair of brail blocks spaced along the gaff, a pair of mizzen topsail brace blocks near the end, a peak halliard block facing up in the middle, and an ensign halliard block attached to an eye bolt on the very end.
 

 
Before raising the gaff, the parrel must be addressed. Like most folks, I scoured my local craft store to find slightly oblong beads that were the right color and the right size.  One end of the parrel is knotted through a hole in the jaws, the beads are added, and the line is wrapped around the mizzen and fed back through a hole in the other side of the jaws to secure. 
 

 
The throat halliard is a version of the jeers with a 3.5mm single block stropped to a hook. This hooks to the eyebolt on top of the gaff.  A second 3.5mm block is stropped to a line with an eye on one end that wraps up through the masthead over the trestle trees and back down to seize to itself through the eye. The fall runs through these two single blocks then down the port side of the mast to belay on one of the mizzen cleats.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
The peak halliard on the top of the gaff starts spliced at the aft end of the gaff then runs up through a double block stropped to a hook at the mizzen mast cap. From there it runs back down through the single peak halliard block, back up to the double block, then down through the port side of the lubber's hole to a cleat at the mizzen.  The above photo shows both the peak and throat halliard falls on cleats. It's worth noting that I attached a temporary line and clipped it to the rudder to serve as a vang while I rigged the halliards. 
 
 
 

 
 The vangs control the swing of the gaff and also pull the gaff down and create tension. There is a 3" (.40mm) pendant on each side of the gaff peak that ends in a 6" (3mm) block. The entire pendant is 42' (about 200mm at scale) and attaches to the gaff via a clove hitch creating two evenly lengthened 20 foot pendants. 
 
 
 
The falls of the vangs are 1.5" (.15mm) line that end in a single block stropped with a hook attached to an eyebolt on the quarter piece. The falls run from that block, up to the pendant, back down through the single block, and then through a sheave at the aft of the rail before belaying. As you'll see - I don't have a sheave at the end of my rail because there simply wasn't enough room there based on the kit & build. So instead, I simply belayed the fall on a nearby timberhead.
 
 
 

 
 
 

Well, we already know there are a number of different variants to rigging depending on the time frame, ship size, and even author of reference material.  That is no less true with the yard tackle pendants, tackle falls, and the tricing lines. In short, the yard tackles are used to haul materials aboard the ship and the tricing lines are used to secure those tackles when not in use.  There doesn't seem to be much debate as to the fact that the yard tackles are stowed when not in use, or that the tackles (that end in a block and hook) are stowed against the futtock shrouds in most cases. This method is illustrated In both Lees as well as shown on contemporary models.  The tackle itself is 2.5" (.30mm) line with a 9" (3.5mm) single block stopped with a hook at the lower end of the fall. The standing end of the tackle starts with the single block, runs through the smaller end of the yard tackle violin block (on the pendant) back up through the single with the hook, down through the larger end of the violin, then back up to coil and hold fast at the futtocks.
 

  
    I then coated all the parts with diluted pva and hung clips about to help it hang naturally. Notice the above image contains the outer tricing line. Let me address that. First, the tricing lines are all .15mm line. There are a couple of different variations of what to do with them. According to the FFM, the outer tricing line attaches to the end of the yard pendant's violin block, runs through the outer tricing line block, then up to at cleat at the mast cap.  I ran this line and it looks really funky to me and just begged being fouled. It also seems pretty impractical in terms of actually manipulating the tricing line. 
    Lees has the tricing line for the fore yard going through the outer block and then "belaying to the fore topsail sheer bitts next to the upright."  That's what I've done here:
 
 
 
While this appears to be much more functional in terms of usage - it still looks really awkward with the line crossing the entire fore deck as it descends from the yard to the bitt.  Then, I consulted Marquardt's Eighteenth Century Rigs & Rigging where on page 73 he says "the outer tricing line was spliced to the upper strop of the [violin block] ran through the lead block fastened to the yard ... then through another [block] at the catharpins height lashed to the shrouds to belay finally in the lower shrouds."   This arrangement is the one that resonated with me the most compared to the other two and is eminently functional and practical. So I removed the line pictured above, attached the single block (using a 2.5mm) to the shrouds at the catharpins and ran the outer tricing line as described.
 
 
 
The outer tricing is belayed to the second shroud cleat leaving the outer one for the inner tricing line.  The inner line is run based on the FFM's description - attached to the tackle at the single block with the hook, run through the inner block on the yard, then down to the outer shroud cleat.
 
 
 
The main yard  is a mirror of the fore yard. Here are some additional photos showing the layout with the new single block attached to the shroud at the catharpins for the outer tricing line and then each element of both tricing lines finally belaying on the shroud cleats.
 
 
 
 
 

 
Here's a reverse angle with notations.
 

 
 

Well, we already know there are a number of different variants to rigging depending on the time frame, ship size, and even author of reference material.  That is no less true with the yard tackle pendants, tackle falls, and the tricing lines. In short, the yard tackles are used to haul materials aboard the ship and the tricing lines are used to secure those tackles when not in use.  There doesn't seem to be much debate as to the fact that the yard tackles are stowed when not in use, or that the tackles (that end in a block and hook) are stowed against the futtock shrouds in most cases. This method is illustrated In both Lees as well as shown on contemporary models.  The tackle itself is 2.5" (.30mm) line with a 9" (3.5mm) single block stopped with a hook at the lower end of the fall. The standing end of the tackle starts with the single block, runs through the smaller end of the yard tackle violin block (on the pendant) back up through the single with the hook, down through the larger end of the violin, then back up to coil and hold fast at the futtocks.
 

  
    I then coated all the parts with diluted pva and hung clips about to help it hang naturally. Notice the above image contains the outer tricing line. Let me address that. First, the tricing lines are all .15mm line. There are a couple of different variations of what to do with them. According to the FFM, the outer tricing line attaches to the end of the yard pendant's violin block, runs through the outer tricing line block, then up to at cleat at the mast cap.  I ran this line and it looks really funky to me and just begged being fouled. It also seems pretty impractical in terms of actually manipulating the tricing line. 
    Lees has the tricing line for the fore yard going through the outer block and then "belaying to the fore topsail sheer bitts next to the upright."  That's what I've done here:
 
 
 
While this appears to be much more functional in terms of usage - it still looks really awkward with the line crossing the entire fore deck as it descends from the yard to the bitt.  Then, I consulted Marquardt's Eighteenth Century Rigs & Rigging where on page 73 he says "the outer tricing line was spliced to the upper strop of the [violin block] ran through the lead block fastened to the yard ... then through another [block] at the catharpins height lashed to the shrouds to belay finally in the lower shrouds."   This arrangement is the one that resonated with me the most compared to the other two and is eminently functional and practical. So I removed the line pictured above, attached the single block (using a 2.5mm) to the shrouds at the catharpins and ran the outer tricing line as described.
 
 
 
The outer tricing is belayed to the second shroud cleat leaving the outer one for the inner tricing line.  The inner line is run based on the FFM's description - attached to the tackle at the single block with the hook, run through the inner block on the yard, then down to the outer shroud cleat.
 
 
 
The main yard  is a mirror of the fore yard. Here are some additional photos showing the layout with the new single block attached to the shroud at the catharpins for the outer tricing line and then each element of both tricing lines finally belaying on the shroud cleats.
 
 
 
 
 

 
Here's a reverse angle with notations.
 

 
 

Well, we already know there are a number of different variants to rigging depending on the time frame, ship size, and even author of reference material.  That is no less true with the yard tackle pendants, tackle falls, and the tricing lines. In short, the yard tackles are used to haul materials aboard the ship and the tricing lines are used to secure those tackles when not in use.  There doesn't seem to be much debate as to the fact that the yard tackles are stowed when not in use, or that the tackles (that end in a block and hook) are stowed against the futtock shrouds in most cases. This method is illustrated In both Lees as well as shown on contemporary models.  The tackle itself is 2.5" (.30mm) line with a 9" (3.5mm) single block stopped with a hook at the lower end of the fall. The standing end of the tackle starts with the single block, runs through the smaller end of the yard tackle violin block (on the pendant) back up through the single with the hook, down through the larger end of the violin, then back up to coil and hold fast at the futtocks.
 

  
    I then coated all the parts with diluted pva and hung clips about to help it hang naturally. Notice the above image contains the outer tricing line. Let me address that. First, the tricing lines are all .15mm line. There are a couple of different variations of what to do with them. According to the FFM, the outer tricing line attaches to the end of the yard pendant's violin block, runs through the outer tricing line block, then up to at cleat at the mast cap.  I ran this line and it looks really funky to me and just begged being fouled. It also seems pretty impractical in terms of actually manipulating the tricing line. 
    Lees has the tricing line for the fore yard going through the outer block and then "belaying to the fore topsail sheer bitts next to the upright."  That's what I've done here:
 
 
 
While this appears to be much more functional in terms of usage - it still looks really awkward with the line crossing the entire fore deck as it descends from the yard to the bitt.  Then, I consulted Marquardt's Eighteenth Century Rigs & Rigging where on page 73 he says "the outer tricing line was spliced to the upper strop of the [violin block] ran through the lead block fastened to the yard ... then through another [block] at the catharpins height lashed to the shrouds to belay finally in the lower shrouds."   This arrangement is the one that resonated with me the most compared to the other two and is eminently functional and practical. So I removed the line pictured above, attached the single block (using a 2.5mm) to the shrouds at the catharpins and ran the outer tricing line as described.
 
 
 
The outer tricing is belayed to the second shroud cleat leaving the outer one for the inner tricing line.  The inner line is run based on the FFM's description - attached to the tackle at the single block with the hook, run through the inner block on the yard, then down to the outer shroud cleat.
 
 
 
The main yard  is a mirror of the fore yard. Here are some additional photos showing the layout with the new single block attached to the shroud at the catharpins for the outer tricing line and then each element of both tricing lines finally belaying on the shroud cleats.
 
 
 
 
 

 
Here's a reverse angle with notations.
 

 
 

Well, we already know there are a number of different variants to rigging depending on the time frame, ship size, and even author of reference material.  That is no less true with the yard tackle pendants, tackle falls, and the tricing lines. In short, the yard tackles are used to haul materials aboard the ship and the tricing lines are used to secure those tackles when not in use.  There doesn't seem to be much debate as to the fact that the yard tackles are stowed when not in use, or that the tackles (that end in a block and hook) are stowed against the futtock shrouds in most cases. This method is illustrated In both Lees as well as shown on contemporary models.  The tackle itself is 2.5" (.30mm) line with a 9" (3.5mm) single block stopped with a hook at the lower end of the fall. The standing end of the tackle starts with the single block, runs through the smaller end of the yard tackle violin block (on the pendant) back up through the single with the hook, down through the larger end of the violin, then back up to coil and hold fast at the futtocks.
 

  
    I then coated all the parts with diluted pva and hung clips about to help it hang naturally. Notice the above image contains the outer tricing line. Let me address that. First, the tricing lines are all .15mm line. There are a couple of different variations of what to do with them. According to the FFM, the outer tricing line attaches to the end of the yard pendant's violin block, runs through the outer tricing line block, then up to at cleat at the mast cap.  I ran this line and it looks really funky to me and just begged being fouled. It also seems pretty impractical in terms of actually manipulating the tricing line. 
    Lees has the tricing line for the fore yard going through the outer block and then "belaying to the fore topsail sheer bitts next to the upright."  That's what I've done here:
 
 
 
While this appears to be much more functional in terms of usage - it still looks really awkward with the line crossing the entire fore deck as it descends from the yard to the bitt.  Then, I consulted Marquardt's Eighteenth Century Rigs & Rigging where on page 73 he says "the outer tricing line was spliced to the upper strop of the [violin block] ran through the lead block fastened to the yard ... then through another [block] at the catharpins height lashed to the shrouds to belay finally in the lower shrouds."   This arrangement is the one that resonated with me the most compared to the other two and is eminently functional and practical. So I removed the line pictured above, attached the single block (using a 2.5mm) to the shrouds at the catharpins and ran the outer tricing line as described.
 
 
 
The outer tricing is belayed to the second shroud cleat leaving the outer one for the inner tricing line.  The inner line is run based on the FFM's description - attached to the tackle at the single block with the hook, run through the inner block on the yard, then down to the outer shroud cleat.
 
 
 
The main yard  is a mirror of the fore yard. Here are some additional photos showing the layout with the new single block attached to the shroud at the catharpins for the outer tricing line and then each element of both tricing lines finally belaying on the shroud cleats.
 
 
 
 
 

 
Here's a reverse angle with notations.
 

 
 

Quick post just to close the loop on the leech lines.  On the main yard the leech lines start at the block (just like the fore yard), run up through the outer hole of the outer double block under the mast tops (the hole we left empty while running the bunts), then down to belay on rail near the hatch as shown.
 
 
 

 
 

Quick post just to close the loop on the leech lines.  On the main yard the leech lines start at the block (just like the fore yard), run up through the outer hole of the outer double block under the mast tops (the hole we left empty while running the bunts), then down to belay on rail near the hatch as shown.
 
 
 

 
 

Quick post just to close the loop on the leech lines.  On the main yard the leech lines start at the block (just like the fore yard), run up through the outer hole of the outer double block under the mast tops (the hole we left empty while running the bunts), then down to belay on rail near the hatch as shown.
 
 
 

 
 

Quick post just to close the loop on the leech lines.  On the main yard the leech lines start at the block (just like the fore yard), run up through the outer hole of the outer double block under the mast tops (the hole we left empty while running the bunts), then down to belay on rail near the hatch as shown.
 
 
 

 
 

Quick post just to close the loop on the leech lines.  On the main yard the leech lines start at the block (just like the fore yard), run up through the outer hole of the outer double block under the mast tops (the hole we left empty while running the bunts), then down to belay on rail near the hatch as shown.
 
 
 

 
 

I'm waiting on san inventory re-fill on blocks before I can fit out the upper yards properly, so in the meantime I decided to take on the buntlines and leech lines on the lower yards.  Yes, there is a pretty good argument for leaving these lines off (as Dan Vadas does with his beautiful Vulture build) if there are no sails. However, I have this thing about seeing 'empty' blocks on my yards, so I'm going to rig them regardless and do my best to position them in a way that at least makes sense for the period. In short - what do I think the crew would do with them while awaiting sails.
    This turned out to be much less straightfoward than I anticipated as there are conflicting representations from source to source. After a fair amount of back and forth between books and references, I referred back to B.E.'s Peg build as he was very through with his research on this (and many other) rigging subjects. 
     Starting with the buntlines - the FFM and Steele agree that the buntlines start by being knotted and pulled up taught against the yard blocks. Then they feed through the yard blocks under the main top. Some references have them being pulled through the fore then aft blocks before belaying. Then, where they belay is definitely a varied opinion with some indicating either a Leg and fall block or shoe blocks.  All of this of course also date dependent with many rigging changes apparently occurring around 1773.  Without belaboring the point, After going back and forth several times, I decided to match B.E.'s interpretation (linked above) from Lees' The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War which indicates the buntlines running through two single blocks stropped together with both the main and fore versions belaying on the Foc'sle belfry rail.
 
Here we go with the main first. Using a .20mm line I've run it through the outer buntline block, up through the inboard hole of the outer double block (the outer hole will be for the leechline) from aft to fore, then down to the stropped single blocks. After looping through the upper single block it travels back up to the outer hole of the next double block and down to the inner buntline block on the yard. Note: I've posted the same picture of the double blocks twice just to make it easier to follow the path.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
The bottom of the two stropped blocks holds the fall where the inboard end feeds through the sheave of the belfry rail then belays to the rail and the outboard line belays to the rail next to it with a timber hitch. Care must be taken when stropping the two single blocks so they don't twist too much otherwise it's very difficult to prevent the lines from twisting as well. It's also important to think ahead when determining where the double blocks will end up or you run the risk of interfering with future rigging in this area.
 

 
The fore lower mast buntlines follow a very similar arrangement - however, the lines run up through BOTH the fore and aft double blocks under the mast top to drop down and belay at the same rail. Also the actual blocks used are different because one of them is already taken by the spritsail's rigging. With the fore, the buntline originates with the outer block as with the main then runs up through the outboard hole of the FOREMOST second double block, back to the matching aft doubleblock then down to the stropped singles. After looping through it comes back up into the inner hole of the same set of blocks before heading back down to the inner buntline block. Similar arrangement at the bottom with both lines belaying to the rail.
 
 
 

 
There seems be even fewer references to the where and how the leechlines belay, but I made the assumption that they would follow the same pattern as the buntlines since they are similar in nature in most other ways.  Only showing the fore here, but the leechline is knotted at the block (as with the bunts), runs up through the set of outer double blocks (fore then aft) and down to a single block that falls to belay on the rail. Once again the outer fall goes through the sheave before belaying with the inner line belaying on the railing next to it.
 
 
 
 
 
Worth noting above that I needed to feed the leechline inside the futtock shroud to avoid fouling. Once again, I can't guarantee the complete accuracy of this arrangement given the limited (and sometimes contradictory references), but it seems eminently practical and reasonable so I'm comfortable with it.
 
 

Short update: Before I got too deep into the lower yard rigging, etc, I mounted the studdingsail booms. I fed them into their irons, measured them inboard as far as feasible and held them in place with a tiny spot of CA on the inner iron. Then I wrapped them with .60mm line very similar (but obviously smaller) to the gammoning on the bowsprit.
 
 
 

 
 

Thanks @Desertanimal - appreciate the kind words.
 
   The mainstay tackle is used to load and offload materials (and the launch) and so there are two - one located above the foremost hatch on the main deck and one over the aft hatch. The FFM calls for a 12" double block hanging from the main stay - the more aft block from a longer 3.5" inch pendant and the fore block stropped directly to the stay.  Each is then tackled to a 12" single block stropped with a decent sized hook with a 3.5" line that's then belayed on the deck. I actually made a couple minor changes here.  The 12" blocks this scale are 4.75- to 5mm, but I beefed those up slightly to 6 mm.  I did this for two reasons - one, I believe the 3.5 line (abut .45mm) overwhelms smaller block and balances better with the 6mm block. I also really like this very visible part of the ship's tackle (much like the anchor rope) and wanted the blocks and rigging to be large enough to make out the details without too much effort.
 
As I said, the aft block is attached to a pendant - which is about 21' feet, which is about 100mm at scale. I positioned this block / pendant directly over the aft eyebolt in my launch and lashed the standing end to the mainstay. I then coated it generously in diluted pva and hung a clip to it to let it dry and stiffen.  The lashing itself is an eye seized in the .45mm line then wrapped to the mainstay and half-hitched. This is where the stiffened line, still held with a pretty heavy clip, came in handy as I wrapped the lashing and tied it off. I did put a spot of CA glue on the mainstay to hold the pendant in place. 
 
 
 
The tackle is a 1.5" (.20mm) line stropped to a block with a hook made from a long eyebolt. The line starts with the single block, runs up through the double block, down to the single, back up through the double, then back down to belay near the deck. The companion block to the fore of the deck is the same process without the pendant, lashed the same to the main stay.
 
 
 
 
 
There are a variety of options to where this may belay - each book / person seems to have their own spot. The convenient location(s) for me were the eyebolts along the anchor rope since the cannon aren't attached to them.
 
 
 
  It's important to adjust the tension of the tackle so it is taught, but doesn't drag down the mainstay.
 
 

As with the bow (i.e. the Spritsail yard) the aft of the ship has a significant difference between the kit directions and the Fully Framed Model. The kit shows both a driver gaff and a driver boom. However, the FFM only shows a driver gaff - this is the option I'm going to employ.
 
   Before raising the gaff it has to be adorned with blocks just like the other yards. In this case there are 11 total.  Despite the slight difference in sizes (4", 5" & 6"), I'm choosing to use 2.5 mm for all the blocks except the throat halliard block - which is 7" (3.5mm) and should be noticeably larger. The difference between the smaller blocks is a half mm or less at this scale (not easily differentiated by the naked eye), and I'm running low on the smaller blocks.   Aside from the throat halliard block, there are three pair of brail blocks spaced along the gaff, a pair of mizzen topsail brace blocks near the end, a peak halliard block facing up in the middle, and an ensign halliard block attached to an eye bolt on the very end.
 

 
Before raising the gaff, the parrel must be addressed. Like most folks, I scoured my local craft store to find slightly oblong beads that were the right color and the right size.  One end of the parrel is knotted through a hole in the jaws, the beads are added, and the line is wrapped around the mizzen and fed back through a hole in the other side of the jaws to secure. 
 

 
The throat halliard is a version of the jeers with a 3.5mm single block stropped to a hook. This hooks to the eyebolt on top of the gaff.  A second 3.5mm block is stropped to a line with an eye on one end that wraps up through the masthead over the trestle trees and back down to seize to itself through the eye. The fall runs through these two single blocks then down the port side of the mast to belay on one of the mizzen cleats.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
The peak halliard on the top of the gaff starts spliced at the aft end of the gaff then runs up through a double block stropped to a hook at the mizzen mast cap. From there it runs back down through the single peak halliard block, back up to the double block, then down through the port side of the lubber's hole to a cleat at the mizzen.  The above photo shows both the peak and throat halliard falls on cleats. It's worth noting that I attached a temporary line and clipped it to the rudder to serve as a vang while I rigged the halliards. 
 
 
 

 
 The vangs control the swing of the gaff and also pull the gaff down and create tension. There is a 3" (.40mm) pendant on each side of the gaff peak that ends in a 6" (3mm) block. The entire pendant is 42' (about 200mm at scale) and attaches to the gaff via a clove hitch creating two evenly lengthened 20 foot pendants. 
 
 
 
The falls of the vangs are 1.5" (.15mm) line that end in a single block stropped with a hook attached to an eyebolt on the quarter piece. The falls run from that block, up to the pendant, back down through the single block, and then through a sheave at the aft of the rail before belaying. As you'll see - I don't have a sheave at the end of my rail because there simply wasn't enough room there based on the kit & build. So instead, I simply belayed the fall on a nearby timberhead.
 
 
 

 
 
 

The Crossjack  (pronounced "crow-jack") is the lower yard on the mizzen, but unlike the other yards it did not carry a sail. As a result there are far fewer blocks associated. Otherwise, it's mounted similar to the other yards in terms of a truss. However, during the mid to late 1700s it was fitted to the mast using a sling rather than jeers. This is where a little bit of research kicked in for me.
  Most sources have the crossjack sling as a single served 3" sling that had an eye spliced into one end, then was reeved through the single Sling Tye Block in the center of the crossjack then back up and seized through the eye. This is also in the illustrations for the FFM, the kit, and most of the builds's you'll find on this forum.  As such - this is the way I originally added the blocks to the cross jack below. However - most sources show that after 1773 the sling was a little more complicated using a pair of thimbles that connect a two part sling. This is illustrated in The Fully Framed Model (pg 105) and also verified in Marquardt's Eighteenth-Century Rigs & Rigging (pg 78, figure 42).  So, this later version is what I ended up doing.  The problem is - I started by adding the blocks before I figured all this out. SO - although you see a center block in the following images - I removed that later when I added the post-1773 sling. 
 
Back to the blocks. As I said, fewer than the other yards. The Sling tye block in the middle (which I removed), paired by two 10" quarter blocks (4mm at scale) stropped with 3" (.35mm) line. The brace pendants are 12' long which is 57mm at scale and secured to the yard 4' (19mm) inboard from the cleats. The pendant ends in a 6" (2.5mm) single block.  Seized outboard of the pendant is a shoulder block at 10" (4mm) topped by a 6" (2.5mm) single block.
 
 

 
The truss is similar to those of the main and fore yard, however slightly more simple. There is a single thimble at the end of a .30mm line that is wrapped around the yard and seized just inside the port side cleat. A longer line is then seized around the yard inside the other cleat. This line will wrap around the mast to be inserted into the thimble then drop down to end in a block and tackle that will end with a hook and eyebolt on the port side mizzen channel. But - like the other yards, the truss and the sling really need to be done in tandem (at least for me) to hold the yard in place during the rigging.
 
 
 
Notice above the first part of the sling which is a thimble in a .40mm served line which is wrapped around the yard, up the other side, around itself, then seized together at the thimble.  Obviously the previously attached sling block has been removed at this point. The second half of the sling is a thimble seized in the same size served line with an eyelet on one end and open on the other. The open end will run up through the lower masthead then back down and seized to itself after passing through it's own eye.
 
 
 

 
The two thimbles are then seized together with a series of wraps. The above photo also has a little better view of how the bottom thimble is wrapped around the yard.
 
Back to the truss - as I said, the longer line is wrapped around the mast, back through the thimble, then down to the falls. A single block at the bottom has a longer line hooked to the mizzen channel. 
 
 
 

 
A .20mm line is used for the tackle to connect the two blocks in the usual way then belay at a convenient timberhead.
 
 
 

 
Finally, the yard lifts are essentially mirrors to the other masts. A .20mm line runs from the lift blocks on each end of the yard, up through a single block hooked to the mast cap, then down through the lubbers' hole to belay on the rail just inside the ratlines.
 
 
 
 
 

The yard lifts are pretty simple affairs. Although the weight of the yards is endured by the large rope and blocks of the jeers, the much more lightweight lifts are used to square the yards perpendicular to the masts. The yard lifts for both the fore and main yards are 3" lines (.35mm at scale) that originate at 9" (3.5mm) blocks secured with hooks to the eyebolts at the fore of each mast cap.  The lines run from this block, down through the lift block on the end of the yard arm (attached to the sheet block), back up through the block at the mast cap, then down through the lubbers' hole to secure on either a timberhead or rail.
 
 
 
The fore yard lifts are secured on a forecastle timberhead next to the mast & swivel gun.  The main yard lifts are secured on the quarterdeck rail.
 
 
 
 
 

As is well documented - rigging both the main and fore lower yards is essentially the same process and starts with the truss pendants and tackles.  The truss pendants partially attach the yard, but their primary role is to prevent the yards from pulling away from the mast in the forward direction. There is a pair of pendants on each yard that run down each side of the mast. They start with a stropping a thimble to each pendant and wrapping it just inside the cleat against the quarter block.  I realize I opted to forgo some thimbles at this scale, but these are too important to accuracy (and functionality) to settle for eyelets. The thimbles are as I've done in the past  - using brass tubing cut, then sanded down to size. Start by stropping the thimble using 4" (.50mm at scale) line. I used CA glue to hold the line in place around the thimble and tied a half knot with 120 thread leaving a long tail.  Then I wrapped the line around the mast and seize it back onto itself using that tail of thread.
 
 
 
 
 
Each line is then passed around the mast and through the thimble of its mate. I did this very loosely , then I temporarily fed the Jeer line through the jeer blocks and fastened the lines to the mast with a clip to hold the yard in place. Essentially, rigging the truss pendants and jeer tackles were done in tandem as that was the only way for me to hold the yard in place while I worked.
 
 
 
The truss pendant falls end with 8" (3.5mm at scale) double blocks. Those blocks make up the truss pendant tackle along with another 8" double block that is stropped to a hook attached to one of the eye bolts at the base of the mast. To rig this tackle I started by measuring the length of the tackle which should be a 2" rope (.25mm) with a length of about 24' or 115mm at scale. Obviously I gave myself a little extra wiggle room. I rigged the double blocks on both sides first, giving me the ability to adjust the tension of each side as needed after I hook them in place. 
 
 
 
Adjusting the tension of each truss pendant tackle allows you to straighten the yard. After adjusting, the fall is secured with several turns around itself and held with a half hitch.
 

 
Now I can turn my attention back to the jeer tyes and tackle. The jeer tyres are pretty hefty lines at 7" - or .89mm at scale and also end with a double block - this one being 12" or about 5mm at scale. I started by measuring the approximate length of the line, which for me was about 280mm, attaching one double block to an end. The line feeds up through one jeer block on the mast, down through the jeer block in the center of the yard, back up through the second mast jeer block, then down again to another double block - the whole thing looks like a nice "M".
 

 
Make sure the yard is the proper height - for me it was just below the uppermost woolding wrap - then measure the distance of the second fall as equal to the first and attach the second double block. It actually took me a little bit to noodle out the tackle at the jeer tye falls. There were some sources, including the FFM, that indicate that it replicates the truss fall pendants with two double blocks at the bottom of the tackle.  However, looking at the images and diagrams from the FFM - only one of the sheaves in the bottom double block ends up being used. So I went with a 4.5mm single block on the bottom tackle which allows for the line to be secured through the sheave on the jeer bitts and belay around the rail. This is the same method that Dan Vadas shows in his Vulture Build. 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
And yes - for those of you wondering - I did notice my early blackening job on the eyebolts flaking terribly, so I've since redone / touched those eyebolts up.  As mentioned, the main yard is nearly an identical process to the fore yard.  That said, I chose to use slightly larger (6.5mm) double blocks for the jeers. I just felt they balanced better with the large .89mm line used.
 

 
Also, similar to the fore yard, the FFM calls for these lines to run through the jeer bitts at the base of the mast, just aft of the bilge pumps. I couldn't make this happen without the lines fouling, so I opted to run them through the sheaves on the railing and then belay them to the railing.  Notice also that I needed to remove the hand pumps to gain access to the eyebolts and other areas at the base of the mast.
 
 
 
 
 
As with the truss pendants, the jeer tackles are adjusted to even out the falls.  Then all of the lines are wrapped and held in place with a touch of ca glue until I finalize everything later with rope coils. 

Quick post just to close the loop on the leech lines.  On the main yard the leech lines start at the block (just like the fore yard), run up through the outer hole of the outer double block under the mast tops (the hole we left empty while running the bunts), then down to belay on rail near the hatch as shown.
 
 
 

 
 

Quick post just to close the loop on the leech lines.  On the main yard the leech lines start at the block (just like the fore yard), run up through the outer hole of the outer double block under the mast tops (the hole we left empty while running the bunts), then down to belay on rail near the hatch as shown.
 
 
 

 
 

I'm waiting on san inventory re-fill on blocks before I can fit out the upper yards properly, so in the meantime I decided to take on the buntlines and leech lines on the lower yards.  Yes, there is a pretty good argument for leaving these lines off (as Dan Vadas does with his beautiful Vulture build) if there are no sails. However, I have this thing about seeing 'empty' blocks on my yards, so I'm going to rig them regardless and do my best to position them in a way that at least makes sense for the period. In short - what do I think the crew would do with them while awaiting sails.
    This turned out to be much less straightfoward than I anticipated as there are conflicting representations from source to source. After a fair amount of back and forth between books and references, I referred back to B.E.'s Peg build as he was very through with his research on this (and many other) rigging subjects. 
     Starting with the buntlines - the FFM and Steele agree that the buntlines start by being knotted and pulled up taught against the yard blocks. Then they feed through the yard blocks under the main top. Some references have them being pulled through the fore then aft blocks before belaying. Then, where they belay is definitely a varied opinion with some indicating either a Leg and fall block or shoe blocks.  All of this of course also date dependent with many rigging changes apparently occurring around 1773.  Without belaboring the point, After going back and forth several times, I decided to match B.E.'s interpretation (linked above) from Lees' The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War which indicates the buntlines running through two single blocks stropped together with both the main and fore versions belaying on the Foc'sle belfry rail.
 
Here we go with the main first. Using a .20mm line I've run it through the outer buntline block, up through the inboard hole of the outer double block (the outer hole will be for the leechline) from aft to fore, then down to the stropped single blocks. After looping through the upper single block it travels back up to the outer hole of the next double block and down to the inner buntline block on the yard. Note: I've posted the same picture of the double blocks twice just to make it easier to follow the path.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
The bottom of the two stropped blocks holds the fall where the inboard end feeds through the sheave of the belfry rail then belays to the rail and the outboard line belays to the rail next to it with a timber hitch. Care must be taken when stropping the two single blocks so they don't twist too much otherwise it's very difficult to prevent the lines from twisting as well. It's also important to think ahead when determining where the double blocks will end up or you run the risk of interfering with future rigging in this area.
 

 
The fore lower mast buntlines follow a very similar arrangement - however, the lines run up through BOTH the fore and aft double blocks under the mast top to drop down and belay at the same rail. Also the actual blocks used are different because one of them is already taken by the spritsail's rigging. With the fore, the buntline originates with the outer block as with the main then runs up through the outboard hole of the FOREMOST second double block, back to the matching aft doubleblock then down to the stropped singles. After looping through it comes back up into the inner hole of the same set of blocks before heading back down to the inner buntline block. Similar arrangement at the bottom with both lines belaying to the rail.
 
 
 

 
There seems be even fewer references to the where and how the leechlines belay, but I made the assumption that they would follow the same pattern as the buntlines since they are similar in nature in most other ways.  Only showing the fore here, but the leechline is knotted at the block (as with the bunts), runs up through the set of outer double blocks (fore then aft) and down to a single block that falls to belay on the rail. Once again the outer fall goes through the sheave before belaying with the inner line belaying on the railing next to it.
 
 
 
 
 
Worth noting above that I needed to feed the leechline inside the futtock shroud to avoid fouling. Once again, I can't guarantee the complete accuracy of this arrangement given the limited (and sometimes contradictory references), but it seems eminently practical and reasonable so I'm comfortable with it.
 
 

I'm waiting on san inventory re-fill on blocks before I can fit out the upper yards properly, so in the meantime I decided to take on the buntlines and leech lines on the lower yards.  Yes, there is a pretty good argument for leaving these lines off (as Dan Vadas does with his beautiful Vulture build) if there are no sails. However, I have this thing about seeing 'empty' blocks on my yards, so I'm going to rig them regardless and do my best to position them in a way that at least makes sense for the period. In short - what do I think the crew would do with them while awaiting sails.
    This turned out to be much less straightfoward than I anticipated as there are conflicting representations from source to source. After a fair amount of back and forth between books and references, I referred back to B.E.'s Peg build as he was very through with his research on this (and many other) rigging subjects. 
     Starting with the buntlines - the FFM and Steele agree that the buntlines start by being knotted and pulled up taught against the yard blocks. Then they feed through the yard blocks under the main top. Some references have them being pulled through the fore then aft blocks before belaying. Then, where they belay is definitely a varied opinion with some indicating either a Leg and fall block or shoe blocks.  All of this of course also date dependent with many rigging changes apparently occurring around 1773.  Without belaboring the point, After going back and forth several times, I decided to match B.E.'s interpretation (linked above) from Lees' The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War which indicates the buntlines running through two single blocks stropped together with both the main and fore versions belaying on the Foc'sle belfry rail.
 
Here we go with the main first. Using a .20mm line I've run it through the outer buntline block, up through the inboard hole of the outer double block (the outer hole will be for the leechline) from aft to fore, then down to the stropped single blocks. After looping through the upper single block it travels back up to the outer hole of the next double block and down to the inner buntline block on the yard. Note: I've posted the same picture of the double blocks twice just to make it easier to follow the path.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
The bottom of the two stropped blocks holds the fall where the inboard end feeds through the sheave of the belfry rail then belays to the rail and the outboard line belays to the rail next to it with a timber hitch. Care must be taken when stropping the two single blocks so they don't twist too much otherwise it's very difficult to prevent the lines from twisting as well. It's also important to think ahead when determining where the double blocks will end up or you run the risk of interfering with future rigging in this area.
 

 
The fore lower mast buntlines follow a very similar arrangement - however, the lines run up through BOTH the fore and aft double blocks under the mast top to drop down and belay at the same rail. Also the actual blocks used are different because one of them is already taken by the spritsail's rigging. With the fore, the buntline originates with the outer block as with the main then runs up through the outboard hole of the FOREMOST second double block, back to the matching aft doubleblock then down to the stropped singles. After looping through it comes back up into the inner hole of the same set of blocks before heading back down to the inner buntline block. Similar arrangement at the bottom with both lines belaying to the rail.
 
 
 

 
There seems be even fewer references to the where and how the leechlines belay, but I made the assumption that they would follow the same pattern as the buntlines since they are similar in nature in most other ways.  Only showing the fore here, but the leechline is knotted at the block (as with the bunts), runs up through the set of outer double blocks (fore then aft) and down to a single block that falls to belay on the rail. Once again the outer fall goes through the sheave before belaying with the inner line belaying on the railing next to it.
 
 
 
 
 
Worth noting above that I needed to feed the leechline inside the futtock shroud to avoid fouling. Once again, I can't guarantee the complete accuracy of this arrangement given the limited (and sometimes contradictory references), but it seems eminently practical and reasonable so I'm comfortable with it.
 
 

Great work Bob, congratulations!