Moonbug

Finally finished up the Main upper shrouds today.  Nothing special about them - served just past the hounds and hooked to the deadeyes. 
 
 
 

 
Here is a tip however - that I figured out way too late. As in, after replacing / repairing three futtock shroud hooks that had snapped off from the tension of the lanyards, etc.  I shoved a toothpick into the chain to relieve the tension on the hook while rigging - then eased / twisted the toothpick out after the rigging was tied off.
 

Finally finished up the Main upper shrouds today.  Nothing special about them - served just past the hounds and hooked to the deadeyes. 
 
 
 

 
Here is a tip however - that I figured out way too late. As in, after replacing / repairing three futtock shroud hooks that had snapped off from the tension of the lanyards, etc.  I shoved a toothpick into the chain to relieve the tension on the hook while rigging - then eased / twisted the toothpick out after the rigging was tied off.
 

Nice work!

Finally finished up the Main upper shrouds today.  Nothing special about them - served just past the hounds and hooked to the deadeyes. 
 
 
 

 
Here is a tip however - that I figured out way too late. As in, after replacing / repairing three futtock shroud hooks that had snapped off from the tension of the lanyards, etc.  I shoved a toothpick into the chain to relieve the tension on the hook while rigging - then eased / twisted the toothpick out after the rigging was tied off.
 

Deadeyes - Backstays - and Shifting Backstays....
 
As continue to work on the shrouds and stays, I've noticed some conflicting information regarding the number of deadeyes and their corresponding stays. This is certainly something of which to be wary when you're working off a few different plans - i.e., a kit build but also guided by Steel, The Fully Framed Model, and sometimes Lees.  TFFM has the fewest stays - and Chris Watton's plans for the Peg have the most. TFFM specifically mentions the Swan class only having single stays off the masts, and Steel specifically mentions three pairs for ships of 74 guns or larger, two pairs for 74 to 20 guns, and a single pair for 18 guns and smaller.  However Chris' plans show multiple stays off the main and fore.  Chris' plans also show Royal Stays  and a shifting back stay off both main and foremasts - which are not shown in other guidelines. As a result - if I continue to progress using primarily TFFM  - I'll end up with some unused deadeyes.  In fact - even on the final images of TFFM's Swan - there are unused deadeyes - which I've also seen on Dan's Vulture as well as BE's Peg.
 

 
Here's the thing - I know my personality; I'm the guy who has all his stuff positioned specifically on his desk.  So having unused deadeyes is going to drive me crazy.  As such - I'll be diverting from TFFM and Steele and including enough additional stays to use the deadeyes. So - I'll have two back stays and one t'gallant stay on the fore, three backstays and a t'gallant on the main - and I'll forego Royals (Lees says they weren't introduced until after 1810) and shifting backstays - because I'm running out of room on the top masts.  
 
So here's what I'll have:
 

 

Finally finished up the Main upper shrouds today.  Nothing special about them - served just past the hounds and hooked to the deadeyes. 
 
 
 

 
Here is a tip however - that I figured out way too late. As in, after replacing / repairing three futtock shroud hooks that had snapped off from the tension of the lanyards, etc.  I shoved a toothpick into the chain to relieve the tension on the hook while rigging - then eased / twisted the toothpick out after the rigging was tied off.
 

Nice work!

This journey is almost over,  just a few things left to do,  but not sure of which way I like to display it.  With oars stoed or in the water.  So most likely just going to let it sit for awhile  then come back and add some extra stuff.


 I may just paint the background  , some sky, birds, fish jumping 😀 penguins maybe.


 
I have to wait a bit  to completely finish,  but it only touch ups and a bit of paint, so almost finished.  Finished enough for me to cleanup the shipyard and start another  model.
Thanks for looking.  Hope it was fun, I had a blast. Looking forward to The King of the Mississippi River Boat,  looks like a lot of tinkering, neanderthals love to tinker lol
Bob M.   
 
 
 

Deadeyes - Backstays - and Shifting Backstays....
 
As continue to work on the shrouds and stays, I've noticed some conflicting information regarding the number of deadeyes and their corresponding stays. This is certainly something of which to be wary when you're working off a few different plans - i.e., a kit build but also guided by Steel, The Fully Framed Model, and sometimes Lees.  TFFM has the fewest stays - and Chris Watton's plans for the Peg have the most. TFFM specifically mentions the Swan class only having single stays off the masts, and Steel specifically mentions three pairs for ships of 74 guns or larger, two pairs for 74 to 20 guns, and a single pair for 18 guns and smaller.  However Chris' plans show multiple stays off the main and fore.  Chris' plans also show Royal Stays  and a shifting back stay off both main and foremasts - which are not shown in other guidelines. As a result - if I continue to progress using primarily TFFM  - I'll end up with some unused deadeyes.  In fact - even on the final images of TFFM's Swan - there are unused deadeyes - which I've also seen on Dan's Vulture as well as BE's Peg.
 

 
Here's the thing - I know my personality; I'm the guy who has all his stuff positioned specifically on his desk.  So having unused deadeyes is going to drive me crazy.  As such - I'll be diverting from TFFM and Steele and including enough additional stays to use the deadeyes. So - I'll have two back stays and one t'gallant stay on the fore, three backstays and a t'gallant on the main - and I'll forego Royals (Lees says they weren't introduced until after 1810) and shifting backstays - because I'm running out of room on the top masts.  
 
So here's what I'll have:
 

 

Deadeyes - Backstays - and Shifting Backstays....
 
As continue to work on the shrouds and stays, I've noticed some conflicting information regarding the number of deadeyes and their corresponding stays. This is certainly something of which to be wary when you're working off a few different plans - i.e., a kit build but also guided by Steel, The Fully Framed Model, and sometimes Lees.  TFFM has the fewest stays - and Chris Watton's plans for the Peg have the most. TFFM specifically mentions the Swan class only having single stays off the masts, and Steel specifically mentions three pairs for ships of 74 guns or larger, two pairs for 74 to 20 guns, and a single pair for 18 guns and smaller.  However Chris' plans show multiple stays off the main and fore.  Chris' plans also show Royal Stays  and a shifting back stay off both main and foremasts - which are not shown in other guidelines. As a result - if I continue to progress using primarily TFFM  - I'll end up with some unused deadeyes.  In fact - even on the final images of TFFM's Swan - there are unused deadeyes - which I've also seen on Dan's Vulture as well as BE's Peg.
 

 
Here's the thing - I know my personality; I'm the guy who has all his stuff positioned specifically on his desk.  So having unused deadeyes is going to drive me crazy.  As such - I'll be diverting from TFFM and Steele and including enough additional stays to use the deadeyes. So - I'll have two back stays and one t'gallant stay on the fore, three backstays and a t'gallant on the main - and I'll forego Royals (Lees says they weren't introduced until after 1810) and shifting backstays - because I'm running out of room on the top masts.  
 
So here's what I'll have:
 

 

Deadeyes - Backstays - and Shifting Backstays....
 
As continue to work on the shrouds and stays, I've noticed some conflicting information regarding the number of deadeyes and their corresponding stays. This is certainly something of which to be wary when you're working off a few different plans - i.e., a kit build but also guided by Steel, The Fully Framed Model, and sometimes Lees.  TFFM has the fewest stays - and Chris Watton's plans for the Peg have the most. TFFM specifically mentions the Swan class only having single stays off the masts, and Steel specifically mentions three pairs for ships of 74 guns or larger, two pairs for 74 to 20 guns, and a single pair for 18 guns and smaller.  However Chris' plans show multiple stays off the main and fore.  Chris' plans also show Royal Stays  and a shifting back stay off both main and foremasts - which are not shown in other guidelines. As a result - if I continue to progress using primarily TFFM  - I'll end up with some unused deadeyes.  In fact - even on the final images of TFFM's Swan - there are unused deadeyes - which I've also seen on Dan's Vulture as well as BE's Peg.
 

 
Here's the thing - I know my personality; I'm the guy who has all his stuff positioned specifically on his desk.  So having unused deadeyes is going to drive me crazy.  As such - I'll be diverting from TFFM and Steele and including enough additional stays to use the deadeyes. So - I'll have two back stays and one t'gallant stay on the fore, three backstays and a t'gallant on the main - and I'll forego Royals (Lees says they weren't introduced until after 1810) and shifting backstays - because I'm running out of room on the top masts.  
 
So here's what I'll have:
 

 

Deadeyes - Backstays - and Shifting Backstays....
 
As continue to work on the shrouds and stays, I've noticed some conflicting information regarding the number of deadeyes and their corresponding stays. This is certainly something of which to be wary when you're working off a few different plans - i.e., a kit build but also guided by Steel, The Fully Framed Model, and sometimes Lees.  TFFM has the fewest stays - and Chris Watton's plans for the Peg have the most. TFFM specifically mentions the Swan class only having single stays off the masts, and Steel specifically mentions three pairs for ships of 74 guns or larger, two pairs for 74 to 20 guns, and a single pair for 18 guns and smaller.  However Chris' plans show multiple stays off the main and fore.  Chris' plans also show Royal Stays  and a shifting back stay off both main and foremasts - which are not shown in other guidelines. As a result - if I continue to progress using primarily TFFM  - I'll end up with some unused deadeyes.  In fact - even on the final images of TFFM's Swan - there are unused deadeyes - which I've also seen on Dan's Vulture as well as BE's Peg.
 

 
Here's the thing - I know my personality; I'm the guy who has all his stuff positioned specifically on his desk.  So having unused deadeyes is going to drive me crazy.  As such - I'll be diverting from TFFM and Steele and including enough additional stays to use the deadeyes. So - I'll have two back stays and one t'gallant stay on the fore, three backstays and a t'gallant on the main - and I'll forego Royals (Lees says they weren't introduced until after 1810) and shifting backstays - because I'm running out of room on the top masts.  
 
So here's what I'll have:
 

 

Deadeyes - Backstays - and Shifting Backstays....
 
As continue to work on the shrouds and stays, I've noticed some conflicting information regarding the number of deadeyes and their corresponding stays. This is certainly something of which to be wary when you're working off a few different plans - i.e., a kit build but also guided by Steel, The Fully Framed Model, and sometimes Lees.  TFFM has the fewest stays - and Chris Watton's plans for the Peg have the most. TFFM specifically mentions the Swan class only having single stays off the masts, and Steel specifically mentions three pairs for ships of 74 guns or larger, two pairs for 74 to 20 guns, and a single pair for 18 guns and smaller.  However Chris' plans show multiple stays off the main and fore.  Chris' plans also show Royal Stays  and a shifting back stay off both main and foremasts - which are not shown in other guidelines. As a result - if I continue to progress using primarily TFFM  - I'll end up with some unused deadeyes.  In fact - even on the final images of TFFM's Swan - there are unused deadeyes - which I've also seen on Dan's Vulture as well as BE's Peg.
 

 
Here's the thing - I know my personality; I'm the guy who has all his stuff positioned specifically on his desk.  So having unused deadeyes is going to drive me crazy.  As such - I'll be diverting from TFFM and Steele and including enough additional stays to use the deadeyes. So - I'll have two back stays and one t'gallant stay on the fore, three backstays and a t'gallant on the main - and I'll forego Royals (Lees says they weren't introduced until after 1810) and shifting backstays - because I'm running out of room on the top masts.  
 
So here's what I'll have:
 

 

Deadeyes - Backstays - and Shifting Backstays....
 
As continue to work on the shrouds and stays, I've noticed some conflicting information regarding the number of deadeyes and their corresponding stays. This is certainly something of which to be wary when you're working off a few different plans - i.e., a kit build but also guided by Steel, The Fully Framed Model, and sometimes Lees.  TFFM has the fewest stays - and Chris Watton's plans for the Peg have the most. TFFM specifically mentions the Swan class only having single stays off the masts, and Steel specifically mentions three pairs for ships of 74 guns or larger, two pairs for 74 to 20 guns, and a single pair for 18 guns and smaller.  However Chris' plans show multiple stays off the main and fore.  Chris' plans also show Royal Stays  and a shifting back stay off both main and foremasts - which are not shown in other guidelines. As a result - if I continue to progress using primarily TFFM  - I'll end up with some unused deadeyes.  In fact - even on the final images of TFFM's Swan - there are unused deadeyes - which I've also seen on Dan's Vulture as well as BE's Peg.
 

 
Here's the thing - I know my personality; I'm the guy who has all his stuff positioned specifically on his desk.  So having unused deadeyes is going to drive me crazy.  As such - I'll be diverting from TFFM and Steele and including enough additional stays to use the deadeyes. So - I'll have two back stays and one t'gallant stay on the fore, three backstays and a t'gallant on the main - and I'll forego Royals (Lees says they weren't introduced until after 1810) and shifting backstays - because I'm running out of room on the top masts.  
 
So here's what I'll have:
 

 

Moving onto the foremast - don't ask why I am doing the foremast ahead of the main. There's no real logical explanation, except I mis-measured the length of the shrouds needed for the main and they were a bit too short - however, just the right size for the fore mast.  So I went with the foremast next.  Shrouds are the same - no mystery here; the foremost served it's length and the others served a few feet down from the heads to the hounds. The aftmost line being the backstay and attaching to the smaller deadeye aft of the others.
 
 
 

 
One thing worth noting as I rigged these upper shrouds.  The plastic hooks I'm using at the futtocks were NOT very strong - and on more than one occasion tightening the deadeye lanyards caused these plastic hooks to separate from the deadeye chains.  A bit of a pain. Had I to do this again, I'd forego the plastic hooks and manufacture my own out of stiff wire or a suitable substitute. As it stood I needed to provide tension on the deadeye lanyards very carefully alternating from port to starboard until all was even and consistent.
 
The fore stay and preventer stay are similar to other stays as well.  The Stay is 5" (.65mm) and the Preventer is 4" (.50mm) and they both extend down to the sheaves in the bee blocks. Worth noting - the preventer stay is wrapped above the stay on the mast head.  Down at the bee blocks, the stay goes through the aft starboard sheave and ends fitted with a violin block that has a lanyard connecting to a 7" single block stropped to an eyebolt in the knighthead.
 
 
 

 
The preventer stay takes the same route, except through the foremost sheave on the port side of the bee blocks. It ends the same with the violin block and lanyard attached to the single block and knighthead.
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Moving onto the foremast - don't ask why I am doing the foremast ahead of the main. There's no real logical explanation, except I mis-measured the length of the shrouds needed for the main and they were a bit too short - however, just the right size for the fore mast.  So I went with the foremast next.  Shrouds are the same - no mystery here; the foremost served it's length and the others served a few feet down from the heads to the hounds. The aftmost line being the backstay and attaching to the smaller deadeye aft of the others.
 
 
 

 
One thing worth noting as I rigged these upper shrouds.  The plastic hooks I'm using at the futtocks were NOT very strong - and on more than one occasion tightening the deadeye lanyards caused these plastic hooks to separate from the deadeye chains.  A bit of a pain. Had I to do this again, I'd forego the plastic hooks and manufacture my own out of stiff wire or a suitable substitute. As it stood I needed to provide tension on the deadeye lanyards very carefully alternating from port to starboard until all was even and consistent.
 
The fore stay and preventer stay are similar to other stays as well.  The Stay is 5" (.65mm) and the Preventer is 4" (.50mm) and they both extend down to the sheaves in the bee blocks. Worth noting - the preventer stay is wrapped above the stay on the mast head.  Down at the bee blocks, the stay goes through the aft starboard sheave and ends fitted with a violin block that has a lanyard connecting to a 7" single block stropped to an eyebolt in the knighthead.
 
 
 

 
The preventer stay takes the same route, except through the foremost sheave on the port side of the bee blocks. It ends the same with the violin block and lanyard attached to the single block and knighthead.
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Moving onto the foremast - don't ask why I am doing the foremast ahead of the main. There's no real logical explanation, except I mis-measured the length of the shrouds needed for the main and they were a bit too short - however, just the right size for the fore mast.  So I went with the foremast next.  Shrouds are the same - no mystery here; the foremost served it's length and the others served a few feet down from the heads to the hounds. The aftmost line being the backstay and attaching to the smaller deadeye aft of the others.
 
 
 

 
One thing worth noting as I rigged these upper shrouds.  The plastic hooks I'm using at the futtocks were NOT very strong - and on more than one occasion tightening the deadeye lanyards caused these plastic hooks to separate from the deadeye chains.  A bit of a pain. Had I to do this again, I'd forego the plastic hooks and manufacture my own out of stiff wire or a suitable substitute. As it stood I needed to provide tension on the deadeye lanyards very carefully alternating from port to starboard until all was even and consistent.
 
The fore stay and preventer stay are similar to other stays as well.  The Stay is 5" (.65mm) and the Preventer is 4" (.50mm) and they both extend down to the sheaves in the bee blocks. Worth noting - the preventer stay is wrapped above the stay on the mast head.  Down at the bee blocks, the stay goes through the aft starboard sheave and ends fitted with a violin block that has a lanyard connecting to a 7" single block stropped to an eyebolt in the knighthead.
 
 
 

 
The preventer stay takes the same route, except through the foremost sheave on the port side of the bee blocks. It ends the same with the violin block and lanyard attached to the single block and knighthead.
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Moving onto the foremast - don't ask why I am doing the foremast ahead of the main. There's no real logical explanation, except I mis-measured the length of the shrouds needed for the main and they were a bit too short - however, just the right size for the fore mast.  So I went with the foremast next.  Shrouds are the same - no mystery here; the foremost served it's length and the others served a few feet down from the heads to the hounds. The aftmost line being the backstay and attaching to the smaller deadeye aft of the others.
 
 
 

 
One thing worth noting as I rigged these upper shrouds.  The plastic hooks I'm using at the futtocks were NOT very strong - and on more than one occasion tightening the deadeye lanyards caused these plastic hooks to separate from the deadeye chains.  A bit of a pain. Had I to do this again, I'd forego the plastic hooks and manufacture my own out of stiff wire or a suitable substitute. As it stood I needed to provide tension on the deadeye lanyards very carefully alternating from port to starboard until all was even and consistent.
 
The fore stay and preventer stay are similar to other stays as well.  The Stay is 5" (.65mm) and the Preventer is 4" (.50mm) and they both extend down to the sheaves in the bee blocks. Worth noting - the preventer stay is wrapped above the stay on the mast head.  Down at the bee blocks, the stay goes through the aft starboard sheave and ends fitted with a violin block that has a lanyard connecting to a 7" single block stropped to an eyebolt in the knighthead.
 
 
 

 
The preventer stay takes the same route, except through the foremost sheave on the port side of the bee blocks. It ends the same with the violin block and lanyard attached to the single block and knighthead.
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

The upper mizzen shrouds are a repeat of the lower shrouds with smaller line. They're 2.5" circular, translating to .32mm in diameter with .15mm lanyards.  The foremost shroud served its full length, the other shrouds served just below the hounds and the aftmost line is the backstay.  Each shroud is paired with the rear pair splitting off as the third shroud and the backstay. 
 

 
 The process is the same as the lower shrouds for me, I have my smaller version of the "deadeye measurer" illustrated in post #283. I measure out the shroud, mark the necessary length that needs to be served with a tiny spot of white paint, serve the line, then rig it to the mast. Once again, I go back and forth from port to starboard to make sure the mast ends up straight.  All that said - the backstay did present me with a choice to make.  The kit instructions show the backstay attached to deadeyes hooked into eyebolts just forward of the quarter badge. Lees has the backstay attached to a deadeye plate bolted into the ship just above the badge, and the FFM shows a small stool fitted above and aft of the quarter badge (also shown in Vadas' vulture. Although I've been leaning toward the FFM with most things, I simply do not have the room around my quarter badge to accommodate a ledge. So I opted for my own version - an eyebolt and deadeye plate just above the badge, but I also attached the deadeye to a plate/chain then the eyebolt. I realize this departs from accuracy slightly, but it keeps lines from being fouled and is also pretty pleasing to the eye to me.  It was definitely a bugger getting the deadeye evenly rigged amongst all the things happening back there however. 
 

 
 
 
I kept most of the deadeyes loose until they were all rigged, then tightened and seized all the lines and lanyards. 
 
 
 
 
 

 

 
 

Moving onto the foremast - don't ask why I am doing the foremast ahead of the main. There's no real logical explanation, except I mis-measured the length of the shrouds needed for the main and they were a bit too short - however, just the right size for the fore mast.  So I went with the foremast next.  Shrouds are the same - no mystery here; the foremost served it's length and the others served a few feet down from the heads to the hounds. The aftmost line being the backstay and attaching to the smaller deadeye aft of the others.
 
 
 

 
One thing worth noting as I rigged these upper shrouds.  The plastic hooks I'm using at the futtocks were NOT very strong - and on more than one occasion tightening the deadeye lanyards caused these plastic hooks to separate from the deadeye chains.  A bit of a pain. Had I to do this again, I'd forego the plastic hooks and manufacture my own out of stiff wire or a suitable substitute. As it stood I needed to provide tension on the deadeye lanyards very carefully alternating from port to starboard until all was even and consistent.
 
The fore stay and preventer stay are similar to other stays as well.  The Stay is 5" (.65mm) and the Preventer is 4" (.50mm) and they both extend down to the sheaves in the bee blocks. Worth noting - the preventer stay is wrapped above the stay on the mast head.  Down at the bee blocks, the stay goes through the aft starboard sheave and ends fitted with a violin block that has a lanyard connecting to a 7" single block stropped to an eyebolt in the knighthead.
 
 
 

 
The preventer stay takes the same route, except through the foremost sheave on the port side of the bee blocks. It ends the same with the violin block and lanyard attached to the single block and knighthead.
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Moving onto the foremast - don't ask why I am doing the foremast ahead of the main. There's no real logical explanation, except I mis-measured the length of the shrouds needed for the main and they were a bit too short - however, just the right size for the fore mast.  So I went with the foremast next.  Shrouds are the same - no mystery here; the foremost served it's length and the others served a few feet down from the heads to the hounds. The aftmost line being the backstay and attaching to the smaller deadeye aft of the others.
 
 
 

 
One thing worth noting as I rigged these upper shrouds.  The plastic hooks I'm using at the futtocks were NOT very strong - and on more than one occasion tightening the deadeye lanyards caused these plastic hooks to separate from the deadeye chains.  A bit of a pain. Had I to do this again, I'd forego the plastic hooks and manufacture my own out of stiff wire or a suitable substitute. As it stood I needed to provide tension on the deadeye lanyards very carefully alternating from port to starboard until all was even and consistent.
 
The fore stay and preventer stay are similar to other stays as well.  The Stay is 5" (.65mm) and the Preventer is 4" (.50mm) and they both extend down to the sheaves in the bee blocks. Worth noting - the preventer stay is wrapped above the stay on the mast head.  Down at the bee blocks, the stay goes through the aft starboard sheave and ends fitted with a violin block that has a lanyard connecting to a 7" single block stropped to an eyebolt in the knighthead.
 
 
 

 
The preventer stay takes the same route, except through the foremost sheave on the port side of the bee blocks. It ends the same with the violin block and lanyard attached to the single block and knighthead.
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Moving onto the foremast - don't ask why I am doing the foremast ahead of the main. There's no real logical explanation, except I mis-measured the length of the shrouds needed for the main and they were a bit too short - however, just the right size for the fore mast.  So I went with the foremast next.  Shrouds are the same - no mystery here; the foremost served it's length and the others served a few feet down from the heads to the hounds. The aftmost line being the backstay and attaching to the smaller deadeye aft of the others.
 
 
 

 
One thing worth noting as I rigged these upper shrouds.  The plastic hooks I'm using at the futtocks were NOT very strong - and on more than one occasion tightening the deadeye lanyards caused these plastic hooks to separate from the deadeye chains.  A bit of a pain. Had I to do this again, I'd forego the plastic hooks and manufacture my own out of stiff wire or a suitable substitute. As it stood I needed to provide tension on the deadeye lanyards very carefully alternating from port to starboard until all was even and consistent.
 
The fore stay and preventer stay are similar to other stays as well.  The Stay is 5" (.65mm) and the Preventer is 4" (.50mm) and they both extend down to the sheaves in the bee blocks. Worth noting - the preventer stay is wrapped above the stay on the mast head.  Down at the bee blocks, the stay goes through the aft starboard sheave and ends fitted with a violin block that has a lanyard connecting to a 7" single block stropped to an eyebolt in the knighthead.
 
 
 

 
The preventer stay takes the same route, except through the foremost sheave on the port side of the bee blocks. It ends the same with the violin block and lanyard attached to the single block and knighthead.
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Moving onto the foremast - don't ask why I am doing the foremast ahead of the main. There's no real logical explanation, except I mis-measured the length of the shrouds needed for the main and they were a bit too short - however, just the right size for the fore mast.  So I went with the foremast next.  Shrouds are the same - no mystery here; the foremost served it's length and the others served a few feet down from the heads to the hounds. The aftmost line being the backstay and attaching to the smaller deadeye aft of the others.
 
 
 

 
One thing worth noting as I rigged these upper shrouds.  The plastic hooks I'm using at the futtocks were NOT very strong - and on more than one occasion tightening the deadeye lanyards caused these plastic hooks to separate from the deadeye chains.  A bit of a pain. Had I to do this again, I'd forego the plastic hooks and manufacture my own out of stiff wire or a suitable substitute. As it stood I needed to provide tension on the deadeye lanyards very carefully alternating from port to starboard until all was even and consistent.
 
The fore stay and preventer stay are similar to other stays as well.  The Stay is 5" (.65mm) and the Preventer is 4" (.50mm) and they both extend down to the sheaves in the bee blocks. Worth noting - the preventer stay is wrapped above the stay on the mast head.  Down at the bee blocks, the stay goes through the aft starboard sheave and ends fitted with a violin block that has a lanyard connecting to a 7" single block stropped to an eyebolt in the knighthead.
 
 
 

 
The preventer stay takes the same route, except through the foremost sheave on the port side of the bee blocks. It ends the same with the violin block and lanyard attached to the single block and knighthead.
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Moving onto the foremast - don't ask why I am doing the foremast ahead of the main. There's no real logical explanation, except I mis-measured the length of the shrouds needed for the main and they were a bit too short - however, just the right size for the fore mast.  So I went with the foremast next.  Shrouds are the same - no mystery here; the foremost served it's length and the others served a few feet down from the heads to the hounds. The aftmost line being the backstay and attaching to the smaller deadeye aft of the others.
 
 
 

 
One thing worth noting as I rigged these upper shrouds.  The plastic hooks I'm using at the futtocks were NOT very strong - and on more than one occasion tightening the deadeye lanyards caused these plastic hooks to separate from the deadeye chains.  A bit of a pain. Had I to do this again, I'd forego the plastic hooks and manufacture my own out of stiff wire or a suitable substitute. As it stood I needed to provide tension on the deadeye lanyards very carefully alternating from port to starboard until all was even and consistent.
 
The fore stay and preventer stay are similar to other stays as well.  The Stay is 5" (.65mm) and the Preventer is 4" (.50mm) and they both extend down to the sheaves in the bee blocks. Worth noting - the preventer stay is wrapped above the stay on the mast head.  Down at the bee blocks, the stay goes through the aft starboard sheave and ends fitted with a violin block that has a lanyard connecting to a 7" single block stropped to an eyebolt in the knighthead.
 
 
 

 
The preventer stay takes the same route, except through the foremost sheave on the port side of the bee blocks. It ends the same with the violin block and lanyard attached to the single block and knighthead.
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Moving onto the foremast - don't ask why I am doing the foremast ahead of the main. There's no real logical explanation, except I mis-measured the length of the shrouds needed for the main and they were a bit too short - however, just the right size for the fore mast.  So I went with the foremast next.  Shrouds are the same - no mystery here; the foremost served it's length and the others served a few feet down from the heads to the hounds. The aftmost line being the backstay and attaching to the smaller deadeye aft of the others.
 
 
 

 
One thing worth noting as I rigged these upper shrouds.  The plastic hooks I'm using at the futtocks were NOT very strong - and on more than one occasion tightening the deadeye lanyards caused these plastic hooks to separate from the deadeye chains.  A bit of a pain. Had I to do this again, I'd forego the plastic hooks and manufacture my own out of stiff wire or a suitable substitute. As it stood I needed to provide tension on the deadeye lanyards very carefully alternating from port to starboard until all was even and consistent.
 
The fore stay and preventer stay are similar to other stays as well.  The Stay is 5" (.65mm) and the Preventer is 4" (.50mm) and they both extend down to the sheaves in the bee blocks. Worth noting - the preventer stay is wrapped above the stay on the mast head.  Down at the bee blocks, the stay goes through the aft starboard sheave and ends fitted with a violin block that has a lanyard connecting to a 7" single block stropped to an eyebolt in the knighthead.
 
 
 

 
The preventer stay takes the same route, except through the foremost sheave on the port side of the bee blocks. It ends the same with the violin block and lanyard attached to the single block and knighthead.