shoule

Thanks, Nigel.
 I use very thin brown paper, like from packing or botique type bags, with diluted, water soluable, glue and I don't find strength an issue because it seems to penetrate the paper well.
 Whatever finish I use, usually darkens it to a dark, natural color.
 I may be underthinking it, but works well enoigh for the look I like.
 I look forward to your extended use and thanks for the post.
 
Cheers,
Steve

I have used contact cement and never had an issue. Perhaps, thin it out with a little mineral spirits, on your brush, and just go plank by plank, fixing them in place after the appropriate drying time. Wait for a dry tack, on both surfaces, before joining the surfaces. You'll have a couple of seconds to get it firmly into place, then rub it to make it smooth.
 I might suggest to avoid applying fresh contact cement over dried. Surface prep is the key to bonding.
 Good luck,
 
 Steve

I have used contact cement and never had an issue. Perhaps, thin it out with a little mineral spirits, on your brush, and just go plank by plank, fixing them in place after the appropriate drying time. Wait for a dry tack, on both surfaces, before joining the surfaces. You'll have a couple of seconds to get it firmly into place, then rub it to make it smooth.
 I might suggest to avoid applying fresh contact cement over dried. Surface prep is the key to bonding.
 Good luck,
 
 Steve

I have used contact cement and never had an issue. Perhaps, thin it out with a little mineral spirits, on your brush, and just go plank by plank, fixing them in place after the appropriate drying time. Wait for a dry tack, on both surfaces, before joining the surfaces. You'll have a couple of seconds to get it firmly into place, then rub it to make it smooth.
 I might suggest to avoid applying fresh contact cement over dried. Surface prep is the key to bonding.
 Good luck,
 
 Steve

Hello Matt,
 I'm sorry, but I've only just come across your build, but I think it looks fantastic, so far.
 This was my first build, a few years ago. Mine was quite the bash, though.
 I don't know if you've solved these problems, but here are some thoughts to mull over.
 On your stern post, if you haven't planked finish the other side, yet, you might try removing it and installing one that brings out your rudder to the right place. Learning to "unbuild" is a natural byproduct to building, I think. It takes a while to think five steps ahead.
 On the second planking, contact cement is another way to adhere the strips. Keep some lacquer thinner in a shot glass nearby, and keep your brush clean (I use a small cheap paint brush); the thinner also thins out the glue.
 When you apply a little thinned glue to both surfaces, and let it dry a bit, you can fit the planks with a little pressure, before they take hold for good. It cleans up easily and won't interfere with any future staining or finishing. No need for pins or clamps.
 Anyway, I look forward to seeing it finished.
 
 Steve

Hello Matt,
 I'm sorry, but I've only just come across your build, but I think it looks fantastic, so far.
 This was my first build, a few years ago. Mine was quite the bash, though.
 I don't know if you've solved these problems, but here are some thoughts to mull over.
 On your stern post, if you haven't planked finish the other side, yet, you might try removing it and installing one that brings out your rudder to the right place. Learning to "unbuild" is a natural byproduct to building, I think. It takes a while to think five steps ahead.
 On the second planking, contact cement is another way to adhere the strips. Keep some lacquer thinner in a shot glass nearby, and keep your brush clean (I use a small cheap paint brush); the thinner also thins out the glue.
 When you apply a little thinned glue to both surfaces, and let it dry a bit, you can fit the planks with a little pressure, before they take hold for good. It cleans up easily and won't interfere with any future staining or finishing. No need for pins or clamps.
 Anyway, I look forward to seeing it finished.
 
 Steve

Another great start to an interesting project, Bob. I can't wait to see them turn out.
 
 Steve

Another great start to an interesting project, Bob. I can't wait to see them turn out.
 
 Steve

Another great start to an interesting project, Bob. I can't wait to see them turn out.
 
 Steve

Another great start to an interesting project, Bob. I can't wait to see them turn out.
 
 Steve

To Chris's comments above: I suppose you are right.
 Things evolve, though, with notions and ideas over time. Who know what criteria they will focus on in ship modeling in another hundred years.
 Me, I'm looking at my first project as the boat builder that I am. Like Nigel, I wanted something to make the planks look individual and on purpose. As a boat builder, I would also caulk because when water gets trapped under the planks, the resulting decay would spread and undermine the structural integrity that I worked so hard for. Also there's also a need to plan for expansion and contraction, lest the planks loosen themselves over time. And, of course, leaks.
 Even now, in the age of composite construction, great care is given to seal every nook and cranny and provide a way for water to run aft and outboard, so that it doesn't stand.
 Is it necessary on a model, no, and to scale might not be even noticeable, but it's a detail that you can be proud of, if you choose, and one that was likely on the plate of the guy who built the boat that the model represents.
 But, alas, I'm a novice at best. I've only just graduated from "Lurker" and I will likely never reach the abilities of many here. Perhaps I'll go in a different direction, next time.
 
 
Steve

Thank you; I'll edit in a picture of the finished product when it dries.

Ulises,
  The prefab decking that I referred to is a process, I believe first incorporated as a manufacturing process, by a company called Teak Deckers, out of Sarasota, Fl. They go to a boat and make doorskin (1/8th luan ply wood) templates of the decks and ways and bring them back to the factory to make deck "panels". They leave the outside planks uncaulked, and the king and scallop planks out. When they bring the completed panels to the boat, they finish fit them, fit the king plank, and caulk the few panel seams and edges remaining. Two people can do in a day, what would normally take a week or more. The advantage, besides time, is less work or opertunities to damage something on the boat (the two are synonymous on boats), and an easy clean up without much dust. You can also make very fine listellos, and inlays in a more controled, ergonomic enviornment.
 I've done them this way and the conventional way. The conventional way is fun, but prefab is cleaner, allows more artistic flexibility and, of course, is much easier on the back and knees. You also need less tools and room.
 As far as what I did, Nigel seems to have put more thought into it, than I, to a fine result.
 Below, is just a quick set up for some hatch planks, with perhaps too much glue in my hatse to answer your question, just to show you my crude method.
Once dry, I trim the paper up and draw a thin, sharp blade down through the laminated width edge and back along the plank to the end. It's really very little trouble and I'm surprisd that this is actually news to anyone.
 The paper will take a dark color with most finish or stain that you put on it, in the end.
 
Regards,
Steve

Please pardon me if I sounded like I know what I'm doing. I've never built any kind of model before now; though I've planked a lot of decks and floors.
 I found an old AL Virginia Schooner kit, and some free time, and decided to give it a try.
 I didn't think much of the instructions or the kit parts so I've been improvising my way through it; stumbeling, is more like it.
 When I got to the decking, I was copying the way prefab decks are made by attaching the caulk joint to the plank ahead of installation. At the end of the day, they use an adhesive and vacume bag system to bind them into a panel, which goes to the boat rough fit. It's a cheat, sort of, but a big time saver on the boat. The quality is there, too.
 
Regards,
Steve

Ulises,
  The prefab decking that I referred to is a process, I believe first incorporated as a manufacturing process, by a company called Teak Deckers, out of Sarasota, Fl. They go to a boat and make doorskin (1/8th luan ply wood) templates of the decks and ways and bring them back to the factory to make deck "panels". They leave the outside planks uncaulked, and the king and scallop planks out. When they bring the completed panels to the boat, they finish fit them, fit the king plank, and caulk the few panel seams and edges remaining. Two people can do in a day, what would normally take a week or more. The advantage, besides time, is less work or opertunities to damage something on the boat (the two are synonymous on boats), and an easy clean up without much dust. You can also make very fine listellos, and inlays in a more controled, ergonomic enviornment.
 I've done them this way and the conventional way. The conventional way is fun, but prefab is cleaner, allows more artistic flexibility and, of course, is much easier on the back and knees. You also need less tools and room.
 As far as what I did, Nigel seems to have put more thought into it, than I, to a fine result.
 Below, is just a quick set up for some hatch planks, with perhaps too much glue in my hatse to answer your question, just to show you my crude method.
Once dry, I trim the paper up and draw a thin, sharp blade down through the laminated width edge and back along the plank to the end. It's really very little trouble and I'm surprisd that this is actually news to anyone.
 The paper will take a dark color with most finish or stain that you put on it, in the end.
 
Regards,
Steve

Arr !!!
 
CaptainSteve 'ere. Recently promoted to Apprentice Wood-Hacker (3rdClass), aboard the USS Constitution (under Cap'n 'ull, 'is ownself, no less).
 
Most all of us as ship-modellers, I suspect, strive to create as much realism as we possibly can with our models. Whether you class yourself as a kit-builder, scratch-builder (seriously, you guys truly are the Jedi-Masters of the model-ship universe!!), or something in-between; surely we look to make our models correct - aesthetically, technically and historically.
 
Myself, I have discovered that I am a kit-basher ... a term I had never heard of prior to my discovering MSW.
I unashamedly accept the title.
 
As such, I often find myself looking at everyday objects through the eyes of a modeller.
 
Fortunately, my job often sees me waiting in stores and various businesses, giving me golden opportunities to browse through their display stocks, whilst considering how some items could be trimmed/chopped/painted to become the perfect capstan/smoke-stack/cannon-ball or whatever.
 
As such, I would like to start a new forum based upon everyday items which could be tailored into ship parts to enhance our models.
 
 
[Please note that, with the recent change of name for this forum, I am familiar with the works of Douglas Adams AND have read his entire, brilliant "HHGTTG: A Trilogy in Four Parts"]

I knew it was a long shot, but I expect you'd have made some fine fowl. I laugh thinking about it.
 But seriously, your work looks fantastic; it's a gem.
 
 Steve

I knew it was a long shot, but I expect you'd have made some fine fowl. I laugh thinking about it.
 But seriously, your work looks fantastic; it's a gem.
 
 Steve

I knew it was a long shot, but I expect you'd have made some fine fowl. I laugh thinking about it.
 But seriously, your work looks fantastic; it's a gem.
 
 Steve

I knew it was a long shot, but I expect you'd have made some fine fowl. I laugh thinking about it.
 But seriously, your work looks fantastic; it's a gem.
 
 Steve

Great work, Cappy.
 Is there anything in that log about a fishing pole? Or a hen coop? I'd sure love to see you take a hand at making some chickens.

Great work, Cappy.
 Is there anything in that log about a fishing pole? Or a hen coop? I'd sure love to see you take a hand at making some chickens.

Great work, Cappy.
 Is there anything in that log about a fishing pole? Or a hen coop? I'd sure love to see you take a hand at making some chickens.

Here’s the new deck. As it turned out I did add a king plank.
 

First I glued black paper to a .03” thick sheet of bass wood
 

I then sliced it into .03” strips
 

I then made the deck frame
 

I planked it while the frame was on the boat
 

More to come but the deck planking is done.
 
Bob

I'm sorry I'm late. I haven't been paying attention to have missed this project of yours, Bob. What a nice, inspirational build; you make things look so easy. I really like your boats and the way that you tackle them.
 
 Steve