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_SalD_
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_SalD_ reacted to knightyo in US Brig Syren by knightyo
Still working on the quarter galleries. I "think" I'm about half done with these things. All of the shapes have been rough cut, and I'm now just trying to shape everything with blades/files/sandpaper/swearing. I wish I had more pics to post, but these things are really taking a long time. I pretty much work on them as long as I can until either my back starts hurting, or my eyes refuse to focus any longer.
I'm really looking forward to finishing these, and then installing the windows, etc..
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_SalD_ got a reaction from Canute in Armed Virginia Sloop by GuntherMT - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale 1:48
Great looking rope coils Brian, all the rigging looks terrific
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_SalD_ got a reaction from GuntherMT in Armed Virginia Sloop by GuntherMT - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale 1:48
Great looking rope coils Brian, all the rigging looks terrific
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_SalD_ got a reaction from GLakie in Armed Virginia Sloop by GuntherMT - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale 1:48
Great looking rope coils Brian, all the rigging looks terrific
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_SalD_ reacted to JesseLee in Syren by JesseLee - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale: 1:64
Started stamping out some of the copper plates
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_SalD_ reacted to GuntherMT in Armed Virginia Sloop by GuntherMT - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale 1:48
Ever so slowly I am working my way through the rope coils. I just haven't found a lot of time lately to work on them. I started at the stern, finished all the ones up to the mast (including the shroud cleat ones), then tonight, finally finished the ones at the base of the mast. All I have left is all the ropes at the bow now (going to be crowded!).
Here is a picture of the little balsa-wood jig in use with 3 coils in various states of the glue soaking in and drying, followed by a couple pictures of the way the base of the mast turned out. The tooth-pick with alligator clamps thing in the photo is holding that last coil in position while it dries, hopefully staying in position when I remove it!
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_SalD_ got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in US Brig Syren by _SalD_ – FINISHED - 3/16" scale
Richard thanks for the advice, you saved me from breaking some drill bits. I did break one because I guess I wasn't going slow enough, though I thought I was. What I finally did was when lowering the drill bit I would barely touch the surface with the bit until it bit into the copper then very slowly advanced the bit. I found also that even though I scribed a mark at each hole location the bit would still wander somewhat. I used plenty of 3 in 1 oil too. Now I just need to find some tiny nails.
Drilled and all cleaned up Pre-bent the gudgeons to fit the hull.
I would like the thank everyone for all the 'likes' also.
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_SalD_ got a reaction from rtropp in US Brig Syren by _SalD_ – FINISHED - 3/16" scale
After getting my grating bars spanning in the right direction (thanks Dirk) I moved onto the coaming for the hatches. I believe it was Brian in his AVS log that used a 1/16” square file to cope the ends of the coaming for the lap joints so I thought I would give that a try. I clamped the pieces into a vise and using the file I notched them accordingly. I also cut down the coaming where the capstan platform is located so the planking will sit flush.
I assembled the frame upside down and used my trusty lego block to square it up and then used a tiny drop of ca glue to tack the pieces together. Once the entire frame was assembled I painted each joint with a dilute mixture of white glue and water. After letting the glue to dry overnight I trimmed and sanded the ends.
The shot racks were made using my Proxxon drill press and compound table which helped keep the notches in line and evenly spaced.
Coaming and grating stained, and cannon balls added.
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_SalD_ got a reaction from rtropp in US Brig Syren by _SalD_ – FINISHED - 3/16" scale
Dirk, how does this look, better?
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_SalD_ got a reaction from rtropp in US Brig Syren by _SalD_ – FINISHED - 3/16" scale
Dirk, I'm not exactly sure which bars you a referring to but are they the ones I am pointing to in the below photo? If so I think I can correct that by turning the grating over and using the other side.
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_SalD_ got a reaction from rtropp in US Brig Syren by _SalD_ – FINISHED - 3/16" scale
Chapter 12 – Deck Fittings
I was going to start this chapter by cutting and assembling the coaming frame pieces for the small aft-most hatch until I read Chuck’s Cheerful build log and how he made his hatches. In his log he, and it seems so obvious now, recommended building the grating first and then build the frame to fit around it. So following Obi-Wan-Passaro’s advice I changed course and made all the grating pieces for the hatches. This worked out well because I was able to lay out the grating so I ended up with a banded edge all around the perimeter of the grating. The pieces are slightly smaller or larger than what’s shown on the drawing but not enough to be noticeable. After inserting all the bars to make the proper size grating I squared it up using a few Lego blocks. The piece was made upside down and held together using a tiny drop of ca glue at each joint.
After letting the pieces set overnight I cut the excess off using a hobby miter box. You need to cut very slowly as some of the pieces may loosen up. After cutting the edges were sanded smooth and any loose bars were re-glued.
Now I can make the frames. (errrrr…right Chuck?)
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_SalD_ got a reaction from PaddyO in US Brig Syren by _SalD_ – FINISHED - 3/16" scale
Chapter 11 complete, all carronades assembled and rigged (I didn't rush Joe). Except for the repetition rigging the cannons wasn’t as bad as I had anticipated. Using the hooks from Syren help a lot. If I had to make all the hooks and drill them into the blocks as described in the manual I don’t think I’d be a happy camper plus they look a lot better than any hook I would have made. I also did not seize the line to the blocks or strop them as you would normally do. I did this first to keep my sanity and secondly because there wasn’t enough space between the outhaul tackle eye bolts for the blocks plus the hooks plus all the seizing. I just used a simple overhand knot to tie the hook to the line that I wrapped around and glued (CA) to the block and a modified slip knot to tie the rigging line to the block. All the rope coils were made off the ship and glued in place.
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_SalD_ got a reaction from UpstateNY in US Brig Syren by _SalD_ – FINISHED - 3/16" scale
After getting my grating bars spanning in the right direction (thanks Dirk) I moved onto the coaming for the hatches. I believe it was Brian in his AVS log that used a 1/16” square file to cope the ends of the coaming for the lap joints so I thought I would give that a try. I clamped the pieces into a vise and using the file I notched them accordingly. I also cut down the coaming where the capstan platform is located so the planking will sit flush.
I assembled the frame upside down and used my trusty lego block to square it up and then used a tiny drop of ca glue to tack the pieces together. Once the entire frame was assembled I painted each joint with a dilute mixture of white glue and water. After letting the glue to dry overnight I trimmed and sanded the ends.
The shot racks were made using my Proxxon drill press and compound table which helped keep the notches in line and evenly spaced.
Coaming and grating stained, and cannon balls added.
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_SalD_ got a reaction from UpstateNY in US Brig Syren by _SalD_ – FINISHED - 3/16" scale
Dirk, how does this look, better?
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_SalD_ got a reaction from UpstateNY in US Brig Syren by _SalD_ – FINISHED - 3/16" scale
Dirk, I'm not exactly sure which bars you a referring to but are they the ones I am pointing to in the below photo? If so I think I can correct that by turning the grating over and using the other side.
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_SalD_ got a reaction from UpstateNY in US Brig Syren by _SalD_ – FINISHED - 3/16" scale
Chapter 12 – Deck Fittings
I was going to start this chapter by cutting and assembling the coaming frame pieces for the small aft-most hatch until I read Chuck’s Cheerful build log and how he made his hatches. In his log he, and it seems so obvious now, recommended building the grating first and then build the frame to fit around it. So following Obi-Wan-Passaro’s advice I changed course and made all the grating pieces for the hatches. This worked out well because I was able to lay out the grating so I ended up with a banded edge all around the perimeter of the grating. The pieces are slightly smaller or larger than what’s shown on the drawing but not enough to be noticeable. After inserting all the bars to make the proper size grating I squared it up using a few Lego blocks. The piece was made upside down and held together using a tiny drop of ca glue at each joint.
After letting the pieces set overnight I cut the excess off using a hobby miter box. You need to cut very slowly as some of the pieces may loosen up. After cutting the edges were sanded smooth and any loose bars were re-glued.
Now I can make the frames. (errrrr…right Chuck?)
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_SalD_ got a reaction from WackoWolf in US Brig Syren by _SalD_ – FINISHED - 3/16" scale
Thanks Joe, see you Saturday
Thank you Thomas much appreciated
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_SalD_ reacted to Dan Vadas in 18th Century Longboat by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:100 scale - BOTTLE - using most of Chuck's Practicum
One of the last things to do before bottling the boat - the oars. Pretty self-explanatory :
Danny
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_SalD_ reacted to Dan Vadas in 18th Century Longboat by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:100 scale - BOTTLE - using most of Chuck's Practicum
Thanks very much for the kind comments Mark, Per, Pat, David, Grant, Duff, Jan and John .
Wasn't that me Grant :D ?
I made the grapnel anchor from brass sheet which I filed into shape, silver soldered and blackened :
Danny
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_SalD_ reacted to UpstateNY in Red Dragon by UpstateNY - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - Scale 1:60
Hi All,
Thanks for the more kind comments and of course for the likes. Support is really appreciated.
So, a little more progress as the tiller rigging has been redone using the 3mm Syren blocks. Glad I did this as I think the 3mm blocks work better than the 4 mm blocks I used before.
I also glued down the gallery stairs and support posts. Stair rigging was completed in the same way as the tiller except the lines were tied off to one of Chuck's cleats. Overall I am pretty happy with these first tries given I am starting on the rigging learning curve. Next up are the cannons!
Thanks for reading!
Cheers,
Nigel.
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_SalD_ got a reaction from GLakie in US Brig Syren by _SalD_ – FINISHED - 3/16" scale
Thanks Joe, see you Saturday
Thank you Thomas much appreciated
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_SalD_ got a reaction from Canute in US Brig Syren by _SalD_ – FINISHED - 3/16" scale
Thanks Brian, I guess I'll need to read the logs more carefully.
And thanks for all the likes
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_SalD_ got a reaction from Canute in US Brig Syren by _SalD_ – FINISHED - 3/16" scale
Thanks riksgewijs, I like the cannons too.
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_SalD_ got a reaction from Canute in US Brig Syren by _SalD_ – FINISHED - 3/16" scale
I did but it's very slight. Taking measurements from the drawings the scaled curvature (radius) of the deck is roughly 36", so I tried to match that radius for the hatches. It wasn't easy.
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_SalD_ got a reaction from Canute in US Brig Syren by _SalD_ – FINISHED - 3/16" scale
After getting my grating bars spanning in the right direction (thanks Dirk) I moved onto the coaming for the hatches. I believe it was Brian in his AVS log that used a 1/16” square file to cope the ends of the coaming for the lap joints so I thought I would give that a try. I clamped the pieces into a vise and using the file I notched them accordingly. I also cut down the coaming where the capstan platform is located so the planking will sit flush.
I assembled the frame upside down and used my trusty lego block to square it up and then used a tiny drop of ca glue to tack the pieces together. Once the entire frame was assembled I painted each joint with a dilute mixture of white glue and water. After letting the glue to dry overnight I trimmed and sanded the ends.
The shot racks were made using my Proxxon drill press and compound table which helped keep the notches in line and evenly spaced.
Coaming and grating stained, and cannon balls added.
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