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_SalD_ got a reaction from usedtosail in Phantom by _SalD_ - FINISHED - 1/8" scale
The rigging of the flag halliards is complete. I decided to use the American flag and the 'pilot’s on board' signal flag that came in the practicum but not the number flags. I did a little research into signal flags of the period and found in Captain Marryat’s Code of Signals, dated 1847, Part III, under merchant vessels that there is a listing for the name ‘Phantom’ with the corresponding numbers of 9574. I used these numbered flags along with the First Distinguishing Pendant and seized them to the flag halliard. Before printing any of the flags I reduced their overall size by 20% of what was in the practicum. Although they may not be dimensionally accurate I didn't want them to stand out so much that they would take away from the ship itself.
The ship is complete and the only remaining task is to mount it on the launching ways and a display base. I made a base from a piece of oak that I purchased at Home Depot and just need to give it a few coats of polyurethane.
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_SalD_ got a reaction from GuntherMT in Phantom by _SalD_ - FINISHED - 1/8" scale
The rigging of the flag halliards is complete. I decided to use the American flag and the 'pilot’s on board' signal flag that came in the practicum but not the number flags. I did a little research into signal flags of the period and found in Captain Marryat’s Code of Signals, dated 1847, Part III, under merchant vessels that there is a listing for the name ‘Phantom’ with the corresponding numbers of 9574. I used these numbered flags along with the First Distinguishing Pendant and seized them to the flag halliard. Before printing any of the flags I reduced their overall size by 20% of what was in the practicum. Although they may not be dimensionally accurate I didn't want them to stand out so much that they would take away from the ship itself.
The ship is complete and the only remaining task is to mount it on the launching ways and a display base. I made a base from a piece of oak that I purchased at Home Depot and just need to give it a few coats of polyurethane.
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_SalD_ got a reaction from russ in Phantom by _SalD_ - FINISHED - 1/8" scale
The rigging of the flag halliards is complete. I decided to use the American flag and the 'pilot’s on board' signal flag that came in the practicum but not the number flags. I did a little research into signal flags of the period and found in Captain Marryat’s Code of Signals, dated 1847, Part III, under merchant vessels that there is a listing for the name ‘Phantom’ with the corresponding numbers of 9574. I used these numbered flags along with the First Distinguishing Pendant and seized them to the flag halliard. Before printing any of the flags I reduced their overall size by 20% of what was in the practicum. Although they may not be dimensionally accurate I didn't want them to stand out so much that they would take away from the ship itself.
The ship is complete and the only remaining task is to mount it on the launching ways and a display base. I made a base from a piece of oak that I purchased at Home Depot and just need to give it a few coats of polyurethane.
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_SalD_ got a reaction from hexnut in Phantom by _SalD_ - FINISHED - 1/8" scale
I started studying the layout of the Staysail and Jib Halliards with their corresponding downhauls and noticed the falls for the Halliards are to be belayed to the fore fife rail. However there aren’t enough belaying pins in the fife rail to tie these lines off. To remedy this I drilled two additional holes in the rail and added two new pins.
The appropriate blocks were tied to the Fore and Jib Stays and the rigging was completed as detailed in the practicum.
Rigging the Staysail and Jib Halliard
I also started work on the signal flag that is rigged to the top of the main topmast. For this flag stave I used a toothpick and filed it down to the appropriate thickness. Added a parrel bead and tied the tan rigging line to it. I also drilled the hole at the top of the main topmast for this rigging line. Drilling this hole was a little nerve racking because I didn’t want to screw up the mast now that I was so close to finishing. I wish I had remembered to do this while making the masts. All went well however.
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_SalD_ got a reaction from ccoyle in Phantom by _SalD_ - FINISHED - 1/8" scale
I started studying the layout of the Staysail and Jib Halliards with their corresponding downhauls and noticed the falls for the Halliards are to be belayed to the fore fife rail. However there aren’t enough belaying pins in the fife rail to tie these lines off. To remedy this I drilled two additional holes in the rail and added two new pins.
The appropriate blocks were tied to the Fore and Jib Stays and the rigging was completed as detailed in the practicum.
Rigging the Staysail and Jib Halliard
I also started work on the signal flag that is rigged to the top of the main topmast. For this flag stave I used a toothpick and filed it down to the appropriate thickness. Added a parrel bead and tied the tan rigging line to it. I also drilled the hole at the top of the main topmast for this rigging line. Drilling this hole was a little nerve racking because I didn’t want to screw up the mast now that I was so close to finishing. I wish I had remembered to do this while making the masts. All went well however.
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_SalD_ got a reaction from trippwj in Signal Flags - Ships Name
I'd like to thank everyone for there input and it appears I have some reading to do.
Wayne, those are great references I'll let you know what I come up with.
Thanks
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_SalD_ reacted to JerryTodd in Signal Flags - Ships Name
The 10th edition of Marryat's assigns every ship a number. The numbers are assigned in groups of 10,000 - 0-9999 with each group headed by a designator or some other grouping flag
BTW: 3rd and 4th from the left of the top row in your collage are duplicates.
I checked Marryat's 1847 and 1855 for the ID in your collage - neither book uses the number 3 designator pennant, it's probably a later code.
Going by the 1847 book (warships aren't listed in the 55 edition because the French didn't want to play any more)
I'll assume the sloop of war Constellation retained the number of the frigate she replaced; 564, so I'll fly this hoist from the model's mizzen head:
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_SalD_ reacted to Chuck Seiler in Signal Flags - Ships Name
Doc,
What you are talking about is the international call sign. For US Navy ships, you can find their hoist at a site called NAVSOURCE. He is the site for one of my old ships. http://www.navsource.org/archives/05/941.htm
I am not sure where you would find this for civilian craft, but harbor masters at any local port could probably tell you.
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_SalD_ reacted to trippwj in Signal Flags - Ships Name
Not sure how it would have been done in New York Harbor of 1868 or so. This would have been right at the end of the period when Captain Frederick Marryat's Signal Flag Code was in use (note it was specifically developed for merchant vessels). The International Code of Signals was first drafted in 1855. This system was first published as an international and a British volume in 1857 and gradually adopted by most seafaring nations.
See http://www.pem.org/sites/archives/guides/signals.htm for a brief descriptive overview (though there are no details).
The International Code of Signals for 1909 is available at https://archive.org/details/cu31924030898351
The 1854 update to Marryat is at http://books.google.com/books?id=jGEBAAAAQAAJ
The 10th edition (1847) can be found here: http://books.google.com/books?id=LtsDAAAAQAAJ
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_SalD_ reacted to JerryTodd in Signal Flags - Ships Name
I've also had a terrible time finding information on signals outside of modern international, Napoleonic British, and some US Civil War era stuff.
I've been trying to ID the hoist from a painting of Constellation at Naples in 1856, which I'm assuming is her "number" or ID, and intend to have it on my model. What I'm worried about is it could well be the signal that the heads are clogged for all I know.
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_SalD_ got a reaction from trippwj in Signal Flags - Ships Name
I’m nearing the completion of my model ship kit of the ‘Phantom’ and would like to add nautical signal flags on the flag halliard for the ships name and home port. After doing some extensive research (3 or 4 Google searches) I've learned that a four flag signal usually designates the name of the ship and where it’s from. What I can’t find is how you go about arranging the flags to say ‘Phantom of New York’. If anyone can tell me what four flags to use or if it's even possible I would appreciate it.
Thanks
ps If the name isn't possible any suggestions will be considered, just keep them PG-13.
Thanks again
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_SalD_ got a reaction from trippwj in Phantom by _SalD_ - FINISHED - 1/8" scale
Thanks Russ,
Things are moving quicker now. Stropping blocks is a lot easier and I’m getting pretty efficient at tying knots with a tweezers. Not quite ready for surgery but I could probably play a mean game of OPERATION now. And where have angled tweezers been all my life, those things are great!
I finished the Gaff for the foremast and rigged it to the mast. The rigging was very similar to the Main Gaff. I tried to set the gaffs at the same distance below the mastheads and at the same angle.
I am in a bit of a quandary. I'm at a point with this kit where I don’t have much more to do and there is a strong temptation to power through all the remaining tasks for the satisfaction of completing it. But then there is another feeling of dismay that this build will soon be over and I’ll have nothing to do but annoy the Admiral. I could never understand why some people had two or three unopened kits on their shelves, I’m starting to now. I’ll just need to approach the Admiral diplomatically about buying a new kit; “What will it be, a new model or more sex?” ...... I’ll let you know what kit I get.
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_SalD_ got a reaction from GuntherMT in Phantom by _SalD_ - FINISHED - 1/8" scale
Thanks Russ,
Things are moving quicker now. Stropping blocks is a lot easier and I’m getting pretty efficient at tying knots with a tweezers. Not quite ready for surgery but I could probably play a mean game of OPERATION now. And where have angled tweezers been all my life, those things are great!
I finished the Gaff for the foremast and rigged it to the mast. The rigging was very similar to the Main Gaff. I tried to set the gaffs at the same distance below the mastheads and at the same angle.
I am in a bit of a quandary. I'm at a point with this kit where I don’t have much more to do and there is a strong temptation to power through all the remaining tasks for the satisfaction of completing it. But then there is another feeling of dismay that this build will soon be over and I’ll have nothing to do but annoy the Admiral. I could never understand why some people had two or three unopened kits on their shelves, I’m starting to now. I’ll just need to approach the Admiral diplomatically about buying a new kit; “What will it be, a new model or more sex?” ...... I’ll let you know what kit I get.
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_SalD_ got a reaction from trippwj in Phantom by _SalD_ - FINISHED - 1/8" scale
Main Boom and Gaff
I finished the Main Boom rigging by running the topping lift and the Main Sheet Tackle. The installation of these lines was easy enough, so I thought, until I realized I ran the topping lift line through the single block at the top of the Main Top Mast meant for the Topsail Halliard instead of the block at the mast head. Fortunately it was an easy fix since the line was much longer than it needed to be.
Main Sheet Tackle
Topping Lift Tackle
Rope coil
Next I worked on the Main Gaff by making the jaws. I decided to make the jaws for the foresail gaff at the same time.
The jaws were finished, the iron bands and the cleats were made and everything was assembled similar to the Main Boom.
I followed the rigging steps as outlined in the practicum and although it was straight forward enough it seemed like it took me all day to rig this one boom. As I was working on this it boggled my mind how, on a real ship, all these line stay separate and don’t get all tangled let alone how do you remember which line goes with which sail.
One thing I did discover after launching another block into the twilight zone while trying to put the stropping on it, was to thread a small piece of wire through the holes so if it did take off I’d have a better chance of finding it.
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_SalD_ got a reaction from Ponto in Phantom by _SalD_ - FINISHED - 1/8" scale
Main Boom and Gaff
I finished the Main Boom rigging by running the topping lift and the Main Sheet Tackle. The installation of these lines was easy enough, so I thought, until I realized I ran the topping lift line through the single block at the top of the Main Top Mast meant for the Topsail Halliard instead of the block at the mast head. Fortunately it was an easy fix since the line was much longer than it needed to be.
Main Sheet Tackle
Topping Lift Tackle
Rope coil
Next I worked on the Main Gaff by making the jaws. I decided to make the jaws for the foresail gaff at the same time.
The jaws were finished, the iron bands and the cleats were made and everything was assembled similar to the Main Boom.
I followed the rigging steps as outlined in the practicum and although it was straight forward enough it seemed like it took me all day to rig this one boom. As I was working on this it boggled my mind how, on a real ship, all these line stay separate and don’t get all tangled let alone how do you remember which line goes with which sail.
One thing I did discover after launching another block into the twilight zone while trying to put the stropping on it, was to thread a small piece of wire through the holes so if it did take off I’d have a better chance of finding it.
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_SalD_ got a reaction from tasmanian in Phantom by _SalD_ - FINISHED - 1/8" scale
The Main Boom
I started this task by shaping the 6” long dowel that was provided with the kit. I did this by chucking it into my electric drill and shaped it with sand paper to its proper form, similar to how the masts were done. Next I laid out the jaws for the boom on the 1/16”x1/2” wide stock that was provided with the kit. I decided to crave the jaws as one piece and then separate it into two halves. Prior to drawing the jaws on the wood I drilled a 5/32” diameter hole in the wood. This corresponded to the diameter of my mast and gave me a starting point to draw the jaws. Then using an x-acto knife with a number 11 blade, I removed a majority of the waste. I finished shaping the jaws by using an emery board. After I was satisfied with the shape of the jaws I carefully cut the piece in two. I then cut the end of the boom down to fit the jaw pieces.
Next I made all the boom attachments. I made the iron bands from the brass strip that came with the kit, the wood stopper cleats were cut from a 1/32” thick sheet, the metal cleats are the ones that came with the kit. The metal cleats looked a bit large so I tried to reduce their size by filing. I think I should have kept filing and made them even a little smaller. I then assembled all the pieces. The double block for the Main Sheet Tackle was tied to a piece of 28 gauge wire which was formed into a ‘U’ shape and inserted through holes drill into each ear of the iron band.
The boom was attached to the main mast with parral beads. I raided my daughter’s bead supplies again and found some brass beads (size #0) that were blackened and strung on thread between the two eye bolts on the jaws. Prior to attaching the boom I also tied the foot-ropes at the end of the boom as shown in the practicum.
My 'OH SH*T' moment came while I was making the stopper cleats. The day before I had made the iron band for the Main Sheet Tackle and made a mental note that I needed to put the finish on the boom before gluing it on. Well, as I was making the wooded cleats, the next day, I told myself that I should glue these on before I put the finish on. So I glued them on. Needless to say while I was admiring my work and was so proud of how the cleats came out it dawned on me that I didn't have the iron band in place and needed to pull off all the cleats. Fortunately I used white glue and they hadn't set for too long. After that it was cocktail time and no more work for the day.
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_SalD_ got a reaction from tasmanian in Phantom by _SalD_ - FINISHED - 1/8" scale
Main Boom and Gaff
I finished the Main Boom rigging by running the topping lift and the Main Sheet Tackle. The installation of these lines was easy enough, so I thought, until I realized I ran the topping lift line through the single block at the top of the Main Top Mast meant for the Topsail Halliard instead of the block at the mast head. Fortunately it was an easy fix since the line was much longer than it needed to be.
Main Sheet Tackle
Topping Lift Tackle
Rope coil
Next I worked on the Main Gaff by making the jaws. I decided to make the jaws for the foresail gaff at the same time.
The jaws were finished, the iron bands and the cleats were made and everything was assembled similar to the Main Boom.
I followed the rigging steps as outlined in the practicum and although it was straight forward enough it seemed like it took me all day to rig this one boom. As I was working on this it boggled my mind how, on a real ship, all these line stay separate and don’t get all tangled let alone how do you remember which line goes with which sail.
One thing I did discover after launching another block into the twilight zone while trying to put the stropping on it, was to thread a small piece of wire through the holes so if it did take off I’d have a better chance of finding it.
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_SalD_ got a reaction from archjofo in Phantom by _SalD_ - FINISHED - 1/8" scale
Lanyards and Main Topmast Backstays are complete.
I wasn't sure how tight to make the shrouds but I didn't put too much tension in them. I had to play with the lines a little to get the deadeyes to line up but persistence prevailed. The Pin Rails with the belaying pin were also tied to the forward shrouds. I need to thank Modeler12 for his tip in one of his posts about applying some ca glue to the end of the lanyard that is inserted through the hole in the deadeye. It made threading the line much easier. I would also like to thank Wayne for his help with the proper way to rig the deadeyes.
For the main topmast backstay rigging I started by stropping my block (pardon me if that’s not the correct terminology). I twisted some 30 gauge wire around the single sheave block forming an eyelet on the top and a hook on the bottom. This will be used with the running rigging on the backstay.
I then tied the backstay line to the top of the main mast and threaded it down through the outrigger eyelet. Taking a measurement from the rigging plans I located the double block and tied it to the end of the backstay line. Once that was done it was a simple task to reeve the running rigging line through the blocks. One problem I ran into was that after rigging these lines you are suppose to tie it off to a belaying pin in the cap rail. Not knowing exactly how these pins would be used when I installed them I unfortunately placed them to far outboard on the rail so I had no room between the pin and the bulwarks to get the thread in. Fortunately the aft deck scupper was right there so I passed the line out through the scupper and held it in place so I could glue the line to the bulwarks right next to the pin and then brought the line up and around the top of the belaying pin.
Then I tried my hand at making rope coils. I think I spend as much time on one coil as I did carving the hull. This one’s too big, this one’s too small, and this one’s unraveling. I never got one that was just right but close enough.
I really enjoyed rigging these lines. With the rigging placed on the model I’m starting to get a better understanding of how they all work together. When looking at a fully rigged ship, model or real, it’s hard to visualize where all the lines go and how they work. By doing them one at a time you can see how they brace the masts and how by moving one point on one mast it affects the others. Very structural, I like that.
One footnote, I hope there are extra single blocks that came with the kit. While trying to strop the wire around them I did launch a few across the room.
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_SalD_ got a reaction from russ in Phantom by _SalD_ - FINISHED - 1/8" scale
Main Boom and Gaff
I finished the Main Boom rigging by running the topping lift and the Main Sheet Tackle. The installation of these lines was easy enough, so I thought, until I realized I ran the topping lift line through the single block at the top of the Main Top Mast meant for the Topsail Halliard instead of the block at the mast head. Fortunately it was an easy fix since the line was much longer than it needed to be.
Main Sheet Tackle
Topping Lift Tackle
Rope coil
Next I worked on the Main Gaff by making the jaws. I decided to make the jaws for the foresail gaff at the same time.
The jaws were finished, the iron bands and the cleats were made and everything was assembled similar to the Main Boom.
I followed the rigging steps as outlined in the practicum and although it was straight forward enough it seemed like it took me all day to rig this one boom. As I was working on this it boggled my mind how, on a real ship, all these line stay separate and don’t get all tangled let alone how do you remember which line goes with which sail.
One thing I did discover after launching another block into the twilight zone while trying to put the stropping on it, was to thread a small piece of wire through the holes so if it did take off I’d have a better chance of finding it.
-
_SalD_ got a reaction from trippwj in Phantom by _SalD_ - FINISHED - 1/8" scale
The Main Boom
I started this task by shaping the 6” long dowel that was provided with the kit. I did this by chucking it into my electric drill and shaped it with sand paper to its proper form, similar to how the masts were done. Next I laid out the jaws for the boom on the 1/16”x1/2” wide stock that was provided with the kit. I decided to crave the jaws as one piece and then separate it into two halves. Prior to drawing the jaws on the wood I drilled a 5/32” diameter hole in the wood. This corresponded to the diameter of my mast and gave me a starting point to draw the jaws. Then using an x-acto knife with a number 11 blade, I removed a majority of the waste. I finished shaping the jaws by using an emery board. After I was satisfied with the shape of the jaws I carefully cut the piece in two. I then cut the end of the boom down to fit the jaw pieces.
Next I made all the boom attachments. I made the iron bands from the brass strip that came with the kit, the wood stopper cleats were cut from a 1/32” thick sheet, the metal cleats are the ones that came with the kit. The metal cleats looked a bit large so I tried to reduce their size by filing. I think I should have kept filing and made them even a little smaller. I then assembled all the pieces. The double block for the Main Sheet Tackle was tied to a piece of 28 gauge wire which was formed into a ‘U’ shape and inserted through holes drill into each ear of the iron band.
The boom was attached to the main mast with parral beads. I raided my daughter’s bead supplies again and found some brass beads (size #0) that were blackened and strung on thread between the two eye bolts on the jaws. Prior to attaching the boom I also tied the foot-ropes at the end of the boom as shown in the practicum.
My 'OH SH*T' moment came while I was making the stopper cleats. The day before I had made the iron band for the Main Sheet Tackle and made a mental note that I needed to put the finish on the boom before gluing it on. Well, as I was making the wooded cleats, the next day, I told myself that I should glue these on before I put the finish on. So I glued them on. Needless to say while I was admiring my work and was so proud of how the cleats came out it dawned on me that I didn't have the iron band in place and needed to pull off all the cleats. Fortunately I used white glue and they hadn't set for too long. After that it was cocktail time and no more work for the day.
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_SalD_ reacted to gluedandscrewed in Carmen 1850 by GuntherMT - FINISHED - Constructo - Scale 1: 80 - pailebote (Schooner) - first wooden ship build
the hull is looking nice Brian,,,and thats the cleanest looking boat yard i have ever seen,, i flood my dry dock about once a month and wash out the trash
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_SalD_ reacted to GuntherMT in Carmen 1850 by GuntherMT - FINISHED - Constructo - Scale 1: 80 - pailebote (Schooner) - first wooden ship build
I wasn't feeling well this morning so I took the day off work, and played miniature ship builder on and off all day. I have to say that it's a lot more exciting than I ever thought it could be to see her turning into an actual ship now that I'm at a point where her lines come together into the whole.
I stole something I saw in one of the books, build logs, or links that I've read over the last weeks, and tried a couple of little jig things to hold the shrouds in place on the mainmast. Wish I'd remembered/though of this on the foremast, as those shrouds are sort of uneven. I may go back and redo the foremast, but in all likelyhood I'll just keep on trucking and apply the lessons learned to the AVS.
First shrouds on the mainmast, applying the jigs and the stuff discussed here earlier with Russ. Thanks Russ, I think these look better. I still need to reduce the size of the seizing even more, and add a third 'middle' one, but this is progress!
And with all of them completed.
Added a backdrop since the rigging is pretty hard to see in pictures with the dark wood and books as a backdrop.
Currently looks like so...
Next I start putting in the ratlines, and then will work on the rest of the standing rigging. Getting close to needing to decide on whether or not to deal with the sails. Also, I haven't even started building the yards, so that's back to woodworking for a while to do those.
Thanks everyone that is visiting, liking or commenting. Feel free to criticize, everything I learn on this one is something I can do better next time!
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_SalD_ got a reaction from tasmanian in Phantom by _SalD_ - FINISHED - 1/8" scale
Lanyards and Main Topmast Backstays are complete.
I wasn't sure how tight to make the shrouds but I didn't put too much tension in them. I had to play with the lines a little to get the deadeyes to line up but persistence prevailed. The Pin Rails with the belaying pin were also tied to the forward shrouds. I need to thank Modeler12 for his tip in one of his posts about applying some ca glue to the end of the lanyard that is inserted through the hole in the deadeye. It made threading the line much easier. I would also like to thank Wayne for his help with the proper way to rig the deadeyes.
For the main topmast backstay rigging I started by stropping my block (pardon me if that’s not the correct terminology). I twisted some 30 gauge wire around the single sheave block forming an eyelet on the top and a hook on the bottom. This will be used with the running rigging on the backstay.
I then tied the backstay line to the top of the main mast and threaded it down through the outrigger eyelet. Taking a measurement from the rigging plans I located the double block and tied it to the end of the backstay line. Once that was done it was a simple task to reeve the running rigging line through the blocks. One problem I ran into was that after rigging these lines you are suppose to tie it off to a belaying pin in the cap rail. Not knowing exactly how these pins would be used when I installed them I unfortunately placed them to far outboard on the rail so I had no room between the pin and the bulwarks to get the thread in. Fortunately the aft deck scupper was right there so I passed the line out through the scupper and held it in place so I could glue the line to the bulwarks right next to the pin and then brought the line up and around the top of the belaying pin.
Then I tried my hand at making rope coils. I think I spend as much time on one coil as I did carving the hull. This one’s too big, this one’s too small, and this one’s unraveling. I never got one that was just right but close enough.
I really enjoyed rigging these lines. With the rigging placed on the model I’m starting to get a better understanding of how they all work together. When looking at a fully rigged ship, model or real, it’s hard to visualize where all the lines go and how they work. By doing them one at a time you can see how they brace the masts and how by moving one point on one mast it affects the others. Very structural, I like that.
One footnote, I hope there are extra single blocks that came with the kit. While trying to strop the wire around them I did launch a few across the room.
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_SalD_ got a reaction from trippwj in Phantom by _SalD_ - FINISHED - 1/8" scale
Lanyards and Main Topmast Backstays are complete.
I wasn't sure how tight to make the shrouds but I didn't put too much tension in them. I had to play with the lines a little to get the deadeyes to line up but persistence prevailed. The Pin Rails with the belaying pin were also tied to the forward shrouds. I need to thank Modeler12 for his tip in one of his posts about applying some ca glue to the end of the lanyard that is inserted through the hole in the deadeye. It made threading the line much easier. I would also like to thank Wayne for his help with the proper way to rig the deadeyes.
For the main topmast backstay rigging I started by stropping my block (pardon me if that’s not the correct terminology). I twisted some 30 gauge wire around the single sheave block forming an eyelet on the top and a hook on the bottom. This will be used with the running rigging on the backstay.
I then tied the backstay line to the top of the main mast and threaded it down through the outrigger eyelet. Taking a measurement from the rigging plans I located the double block and tied it to the end of the backstay line. Once that was done it was a simple task to reeve the running rigging line through the blocks. One problem I ran into was that after rigging these lines you are suppose to tie it off to a belaying pin in the cap rail. Not knowing exactly how these pins would be used when I installed them I unfortunately placed them to far outboard on the rail so I had no room between the pin and the bulwarks to get the thread in. Fortunately the aft deck scupper was right there so I passed the line out through the scupper and held it in place so I could glue the line to the bulwarks right next to the pin and then brought the line up and around the top of the belaying pin.
Then I tried my hand at making rope coils. I think I spend as much time on one coil as I did carving the hull. This one’s too big, this one’s too small, and this one’s unraveling. I never got one that was just right but close enough.
I really enjoyed rigging these lines. With the rigging placed on the model I’m starting to get a better understanding of how they all work together. When looking at a fully rigged ship, model or real, it’s hard to visualize where all the lines go and how they work. By doing them one at a time you can see how they brace the masts and how by moving one point on one mast it affects the others. Very structural, I like that.
One footnote, I hope there are extra single blocks that came with the kit. While trying to strop the wire around them I did launch a few across the room.
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_SalD_ got a reaction from ccoyle in Phantom by _SalD_ - FINISHED - 1/8" scale
Lanyards and Main Topmast Backstays are complete.
I wasn't sure how tight to make the shrouds but I didn't put too much tension in them. I had to play with the lines a little to get the deadeyes to line up but persistence prevailed. The Pin Rails with the belaying pin were also tied to the forward shrouds. I need to thank Modeler12 for his tip in one of his posts about applying some ca glue to the end of the lanyard that is inserted through the hole in the deadeye. It made threading the line much easier. I would also like to thank Wayne for his help with the proper way to rig the deadeyes.
For the main topmast backstay rigging I started by stropping my block (pardon me if that’s not the correct terminology). I twisted some 30 gauge wire around the single sheave block forming an eyelet on the top and a hook on the bottom. This will be used with the running rigging on the backstay.
I then tied the backstay line to the top of the main mast and threaded it down through the outrigger eyelet. Taking a measurement from the rigging plans I located the double block and tied it to the end of the backstay line. Once that was done it was a simple task to reeve the running rigging line through the blocks. One problem I ran into was that after rigging these lines you are suppose to tie it off to a belaying pin in the cap rail. Not knowing exactly how these pins would be used when I installed them I unfortunately placed them to far outboard on the rail so I had no room between the pin and the bulwarks to get the thread in. Fortunately the aft deck scupper was right there so I passed the line out through the scupper and held it in place so I could glue the line to the bulwarks right next to the pin and then brought the line up and around the top of the belaying pin.
Then I tried my hand at making rope coils. I think I spend as much time on one coil as I did carving the hull. This one’s too big, this one’s too small, and this one’s unraveling. I never got one that was just right but close enough.
I really enjoyed rigging these lines. With the rigging placed on the model I’m starting to get a better understanding of how they all work together. When looking at a fully rigged ship, model or real, it’s hard to visualize where all the lines go and how they work. By doing them one at a time you can see how they brace the masts and how by moving one point on one mast it affects the others. Very structural, I like that.
One footnote, I hope there are extra single blocks that came with the kit. While trying to strop the wire around them I did launch a few across the room.