_SalD_

Finished carving/sanding the inside of the longboat. 
 

 

 

 
The instructions call for adding 1/16" square ribs by wet-bending and gluing in while wet. Makes sense as I don't see a good way to clamp and let dry without damaging the boat hull. I've never done this before. . . I assume the PVA will not be appropriate for this, and will try CA

Finished sanding the hull without having to use too much filler.  After the sanding was complete the outer keel, stem and stern post were glued on.
.
Inner bulwark planking:
Gluing the inner bulwark planking was pretty straight forward. 

 

Thanks druxey and thanks for all the likes.
 
No workshop but at least I have a nice view while sanding.

Planking around the stern knuckle proved to be interesting with some creative clamping. 


I found I had to trim (shaded area on plank) two of the central planks in order to maintain an even run of the planking.

Completed planking

 

Planking the hull:
The kit comes with four sheets of pre-formed hull planking, two for the port side and two for the starboard side.   The sheets are well labeled so you know where each piece belongs.  Starting with the first two fore pieces, port and starboard, I noticed that they were not the same width.  The port plank being quite a bit larger than the starboard one.

Going on the assumption that the planking should be symmetrical on each side of the hull, I choose to sand down the port plank making it the same width as the starboard side.
 
First set of fore and aft planking pieces in place.

Planking continues

Thank you for looking in and I appreciate the likes.

First I would like to thank everyone for all the likes.
 
The gun ports were cut and lined as per an option in the instructions.  The porthole locations were laid out using the templates provided and the brass rings were attached to the hull using some ac glue.

 
The same brass ring used for the portholes was supposed to be used for the hawse holes just flattened out into an oval shape.  After doing this I just didn’t think the ring was the appropriate size.  I used some brass wire to form an oval for the outer hawse hole and went a little farther and cut and filed a piece of brass tubing to line the hole through the hull.

 
The brass tube was eventually filed down flush with the inner bulwark.

 
Since the hull will be painted I just used some wood filler to fill the gaps around the wire and tubing.

 
 

First I would like to thank everyone for all the likes.
 
The gun ports were cut and lined as per an option in the instructions.  The porthole locations were laid out using the templates provided and the brass rings were attached to the hull using some ac glue.

 
The same brass ring used for the portholes was supposed to be used for the hawse holes just flattened out into an oval shape.  After doing this I just didn’t think the ring was the appropriate size.  I used some brass wire to form an oval for the outer hawse hole and went a little farther and cut and filed a piece of brass tubing to line the hole through the hull.

 
The brass tube was eventually filed down flush with the inner bulwark.

 
Since the hull will be painted I just used some wood filler to fill the gaps around the wire and tubing.

 
 

First I would like to thank everyone for all the likes.
 
The gun ports were cut and lined as per an option in the instructions.  The porthole locations were laid out using the templates provided and the brass rings were attached to the hull using some ac glue.

 
The same brass ring used for the portholes was supposed to be used for the hawse holes just flattened out into an oval shape.  After doing this I just didn’t think the ring was the appropriate size.  I used some brass wire to form an oval for the outer hawse hole and went a little farther and cut and filed a piece of brass tubing to line the hole through the hull.

 
The brass tube was eventually filed down flush with the inner bulwark.

 
Since the hull will be painted I just used some wood filler to fill the gaps around the wire and tubing.

 
 

I needed a break from the work on the hull, so started the longboat. I think it's coming along OK, what a lot of sawdust, though. . .
 
I used the Dremel with drum sanding attachment, as suggested in the manual.
 

 

 

 

There is a lot of material to be removed on the inside, especially from the second lift. I'm not sure if the drum sander will be appropriate there.
 

 
Enough for today.
 

First I would like to thank everyone for all the likes.
 
The gun ports were cut and lined as per an option in the instructions.  The porthole locations were laid out using the templates provided and the brass rings were attached to the hull using some ac glue.

 
The same brass ring used for the portholes was supposed to be used for the hawse holes just flattened out into an oval shape.  After doing this I just didn’t think the ring was the appropriate size.  I used some brass wire to form an oval for the outer hawse hole and went a little farther and cut and filed a piece of brass tubing to line the hole through the hull.

 
The brass tube was eventually filed down flush with the inner bulwark.

 
Since the hull will be painted I just used some wood filler to fill the gaps around the wire and tubing.

 
 

First I would like to thank everyone for all the likes.
 
The gun ports were cut and lined as per an option in the instructions.  The porthole locations were laid out using the templates provided and the brass rings were attached to the hull using some ac glue.

 
The same brass ring used for the portholes was supposed to be used for the hawse holes just flattened out into an oval shape.  After doing this I just didn’t think the ring was the appropriate size.  I used some brass wire to form an oval for the outer hawse hole and went a little farther and cut and filed a piece of brass tubing to line the hole through the hull.

 
The brass tube was eventually filed down flush with the inner bulwark.

 
Since the hull will be painted I just used some wood filler to fill the gaps around the wire and tubing.

 
 

First I would like to thank everyone for all the likes.
 
The gun ports were cut and lined as per an option in the instructions.  The porthole locations were laid out using the templates provided and the brass rings were attached to the hull using some ac glue.

 
The same brass ring used for the portholes was supposed to be used for the hawse holes just flattened out into an oval shape.  After doing this I just didn’t think the ring was the appropriate size.  I used some brass wire to form an oval for the outer hawse hole and went a little farther and cut and filed a piece of brass tubing to line the hole through the hull.

 
The brass tube was eventually filed down flush with the inner bulwark.

 
Since the hull will be painted I just used some wood filler to fill the gaps around the wire and tubing.

 
 

Nice job on the sills and lintels Bob.  Stern is lookin good.  I remember the inboard side of the bulwarks were a challenge to sand.  
Hope you're all recovered from the cold/bronchitis and good luck with quitting smoking.

Finished sanding the hull without having to use too much filler.  After the sanding was complete the outer keel, stem and stern post were glued on.
.
Inner bulwark planking:
Gluing the inner bulwark planking was pretty straight forward. 

 

Finished sanding the hull without having to use too much filler.  After the sanding was complete the outer keel, stem and stern post were glued on.
.
Inner bulwark planking:
Gluing the inner bulwark planking was pretty straight forward. 

 

Finished sanding the hull without having to use too much filler.  After the sanding was complete the outer keel, stem and stern post were glued on.
.
Inner bulwark planking:
Gluing the inner bulwark planking was pretty straight forward. 

 

Greetings Fellow Modelers,
 
After a few weeks of being sidetracked, I finally put in the time to finish this shadowbox display.
 
Because the main door is partially open, a surface that extends beyond the wall to the “outside” is needed.  I decided that surface would be concrete and is made of hydrocal smeared on a piece of basswood.  This extension is 7/8” wide which is all the space available between the display module and the inside of the case.
 

 
 
The doorway needed two doors that swing out from the center.  I drew up what I thought looked appropriate and made them up.
 

 

 
 
The outside lights are white 5050 surface mount LEDs.  I started out thinking four would be enough, but then added two more and then another two.
 

 
 
They were mounted to a rectangle of styrene which was then bend downward over the doorway.  I lowered the lights up the point where they could almost be seen by the viewer looking out the doorway.  The two sticks of basswood were glued together at their crossing once the optimum downward bend was found.
 

 
 
The doors were positioned to minimize what could be viewed beyond the doorway. I don't want the inside of the shadowbox to be seen.
 

 
 
The rear window presented some difficulties due to the background image being so close to the window.  In fact, the image is 1/8” (3mm) from the back of the window.  I boxed off the window with 1/8” basswood strips and painted the surrounding area with a silver chrome for added reflectivity.  I then positioned five 5730 LEDs around the perimeter of the window with the side LEDs pointing inward toward the center.  Back when I installed the window, I had placed a grating over it and dirtied up the glazing so the view through it would be obscured.  This didn't work and just looked muddy and grubby, so I removed both and replaced it with clean clear acetate.
 

 
 
A background image was attached to a piece of styrene and the window box was closed up.
 

 
 
I placed clips inside the box to hold the display in and to make it easier to remove for swapping out the vehicle in the future.  Also, an image was glued to the inside wall of the box outside the doorway.
 

 
I spent considerable time balancing the lighting to get the look I was after.  Not a complete success by any stretch, but I'm satisfied with the result just the same.
 
The first three photos are with both interior and exterior lights on.
 

 

 

 
 
Then the exterior lights only.
 

 

 

 
 
The problem with having the interior lights only on, is that you can see the shadow cast by the window muntins on the background image. This is because the image is so close.  My other displays don't have this problem because the images are set back much further.
 

 

 
 
And that's it.
 

 

 
Thanks to everyone for taking a look and for all the likes.  And a special thank you to those who left comments of support and encouragement – I appreciate it very much.
 
Be safe and stay well.
 
Gary
 

Sanding, sanding, sanding. Completed the framing for openings on the sides. I felt the hull was faired pretty well before the process of adding the framing, but in sanding all this down, I created depressions below the sills and lintels that required adding some veneer/shim. There is still a bit more of this to do. I feel that the inside fairing is not perfect, but is getting as close as I'll ever get. . .
 
Three weeks with a cold/bronchitis, had a few down days- convinced me to rethink my aversion to masks (wonder how that arose?), and also two weeks ago to stop smoking. For me smoking goes hand-in-hand with modeling (in fact with everything), so it has been an adjustment. At least on this model I won't stick my face with a lit cig sticking out of my mouth into the rigging! And I can spend the money on tools!
 

 

 
As you can see, I began work on the stern. I don't know why the instructions call for checking the height of the sill for the stern gun port openings after installing the sills- I did that first thing and found that the laser marks were about 1/8" too high for the gun barrels to clear the sills.
 
Used my waterline marker to strike a new line across the bulwarks. The sills appear to be straight and flat.
 

 

 

 
I'm apprehensive about the sanding that will need to be done to fair this framing to the bulwarks. So far, I haven't broken any part, did have some framing come loose during sanding the sides, but if I am to have breaks, this stern is where they will happen!
 
 

Finished sanding the hull without having to use too much filler.  After the sanding was complete the outer keel, stem and stern post were glued on.
.
Inner bulwark planking:
Gluing the inner bulwark planking was pretty straight forward. 

 

Finished sanding the hull without having to use too much filler.  After the sanding was complete the outer keel, stem and stern post were glued on.
.
Inner bulwark planking:
Gluing the inner bulwark planking was pretty straight forward. 

 

Finished sanding the hull without having to use too much filler.  After the sanding was complete the outer keel, stem and stern post were glued on.
.
Inner bulwark planking:
Gluing the inner bulwark planking was pretty straight forward. 

 

Thanks druxey and thanks for all the likes.
 
No workshop but at least I have a nice view while sanding.

Planking around the stern knuckle proved to be interesting with some creative clamping. 


I found I had to trim (shaded area on plank) two of the central planks in order to maintain an even run of the planking.

Completed planking

 

Used the first two sheets of planking which did approximately half the hull.  All the port fore pieces had to be sanded down to match the width of the starboard side.  All of the port and starboard center and aft pieces were the same size so no sanding was required for them.
 


I also found it very helpful to label the back of each piece to avoid confusion as to what side and in what direction the planks go after they are removed from the sheet.

Thanks druxey and thanks for all the likes.
 
No workshop but at least I have a nice view while sanding.