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    Placerville, CA USA

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  1. Glued in the coaming and cabin sides. I did not pre-paint them as I will be priming and painting the deck due to all the fill used. I'm thinking some light buff or cream paint that might resemble wood, if I can find it. Any ideas? First pic shows a difference between the prototype and this model. The operating rod for the centerboard is shown in the kit manual as resting in the down position all the way to the end of the slot towards the stern, so that it rests between the two wet well covers. In my opinion, this would be the most attractive position for display. As you can see, in
  2. Good job so far! Regarding tools- the list provided with the kit is pretty complete. I've found the broach set (Amazon, from Germany) is very useful. You can drill holes undersized and then open them up very precisely to fit a part. I've also found a rotating vise to be indispensable. Bob
  3. I was feeling pretty good, sanding, filling, sanding filling. . . when I realized that what I thought was a white deck in the instruction manual was actually unfinished wood. Had some warping of the deck which required filling, and I did a pretty good job in restoring the slight curve to the surface. Now I think I have no choice but to go with painting. I had seen that some others stained the deck, but I wanted to keep to the scheme presented. I realized I had gone wrong when I read the instructions to pre-paint the coaming (not for the first time) to avoid awkward masking. Thought "why pre-
  4. Looks great Auger! I have this kit but am waiting for confidence to build through other models. The staircases kind of intimidate me. . . Where did you find the human and animal figures? Bob
  5. Added the toe rails and one rub rail. Instructions call for the rub rails to be 1/4" below the top of the toe rail, until aft of the deck house (cabin?), where it should rise gradually ending 1/16" below the top of the transom. I glued the piece on to the point where the rise would begin, then holding it to a mark at the transom, made marks every inch or so, then continued gluing incrementally. There is a slight rise to the hull near the center of the boat, or a slight dip in the rub rail, or both- which is now apparent, but overall I am happy with results.
  6. Druxey, Will & Skibee- Thanks for the encouragement. I began filling and sanding. Most of the defects are edge to edge, I was lucky to not have any apparent depressions between the frames. On the theory that I am not seeing everything, I applied filler all over, then sanded down. I experimented with two different fillers. The Minwax discolors the wood and is very grainy, but sands down OK. The Model Lite stuff is strange indeed, really fluffy stuff that sands to a very smooth finish, but it is too easy to over-sand thus removing the fill. I added a little water to both types to
  7. As I began to place the #9 and sheer planks I saw that I was below the level of the deck towards the bow. The error was so small that I did not want to fashion a stealer or make new planks. I decided to leave gaps between these two planks, then filled with glue/sawdust mixture. This fill shrinks somewhat, and I will address this with additional filler. I also used this fill method on some other gaps throughout. My fairing was as good as I could make it, all the planks laid well against the frames, my problem was edge to edge, and results were improved as I did a better job with beveling and be
  8. This is just incredible work. I love the details, the cabin and the machinery. The simulated water is amazing. I don't think I'm ready to tackle this model yet, but I may buy it now as I'd like to know it is there waiting for me.
  9. Thanks ERS Rich. That's some shop you have there; you are obviously a skilled woodworker. The albums of your finished models are impressive, and you've also made some beautiful display cases! I am edge-gluing the planks with PVA. I am taking a lot of care when wet-bending, and I let the piece air-dry in place for a few hours, so there is no need to force it into place when gluing. That is why light finger pressure is enough- I just hold it in place for a couple of minutes until the glue grabs. I like gluing incrementally because I can pay more attention to edge alignment in a short
  10. Congratulations! You should be proud of your effort! I like the way you laid the oars across the boat. You're really going to like the Pram. I have mine in the living room and can't stop looking at it. . . Bob
  11. Continuing with the planking. After my last post, as I readied the #2 plank, I saw that I was way off the mark. I discarded the two kit-supplied planks and made two new ones, using the carrier sheet as a template, and then cutting to the outside of the lines, resulting in wider planks. This corrected the problem, at least for the next two planks. Now, as I prepare the first # 6 plank, I see that it is slightly off the mark towards the stern. It lies very nicely though, and I will install it hoping that my previous correction puts it all within the margin of error provided by the oversized shee
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