Landlubber Mike

That looks fantastic, excellent work as always!
 

That looks fantastic, excellent work as always!
 

Added a couple bombs for fun!

Hey thanks very much!  Sorry to have missed that you replied on my log.  You should definitely put up a build log as there are a lot of helpful people on here.  
 
At some point I do want to get back to this model as I visited the real one a few years ago.  Too many modeling interests, too little time unfortunately 😩

really nice progress Mike  

I found a picture online of the Aires gun bay.  Doesn't look too bad, but doesn't excite me all that much either.  
 

I've been spending a lot of time on the model, but making excruciatingly slow progress.  More than a few times I just wanted to put it back on the shelf and work on something else, but figured I should press on and try to get over this stage of the build.  It's not that the Aires set is bad - I think it's quite good aside from the serious fit issues of the cockpit side panels and dash - it's just that there is a ton of work needed to modify the kit parts to accept the various detail parts.  I'm still fairly new to this plastic stuff, so maybe I should have started with something a little simpler or at least a well-designed kit that I didn't have a lot of aftermarket for -- I keep saying that on all these plastic builds 🥴  But, all complaining aside, I'm learning a lot and so far I'm pleased with how things are looking.
 
So here is where I am.  Managed to get the bottom tub completed.  As I mentioned earlier, the Aires cockpit fits together really well outside of the fuselage, but there are serious fit issues when you try to install it.  So, rather than drop the fully assembled cockpit into the bottom tub which is inserted as a unit into the main fuselage, I only included the cockpit tub into the bottom tub, and inserted the seat back, dash, and cockpit side panels into the main fuselage.  Took some surgery to make it all fit, but eventually got there (you can see some of the cuts, etc. in the picture below which won't be visible once glued into the main fuselage).  I also put together the section of the engine compartment between the air dam and firewall.  That wasn't too bad, but there was a lot of test fitting and sanding/cutting back to get the framing rods fit in place correctly.  Need to dirty it up a bit more, but I think it's looking good.
 
 
 
The next part which has taken me more hours than I care to admit was cutting out the front quarter panels and installing the cutaway frames.  I was really afraid of cutting too much away so it was endless dry fitting, cutting and sanding a bit, dry fitting, cutting and sanding a bit, etc.  Finally got the panels on last night though, hooray!
 

 
If you look just above the cutaway panel, there is a small square panel on the top left of the fuselage.  I think that's the access panel to the oil tank, which is the dirty yellow squarish thing in the prior picture.  I think I might cut that panel out for a little more visibility into the engine compartment.  Saw another modeler do that and thought it might be a nice way to show off more of the compartment including the oil tank.
 
For an idea of how things will look, here is the bottom tub dry fit into the main fuselage:
 

 
Now I'm working on the cowl.  Lot of surgery here to cut away most of it.  There is a fairly detailed PE framing piece that goes on each side, which are covered by what I believe looks pop up panels along the edge of the cowl.  Then there are three resin parts that look like air intakes that get attached to the inside of the cowl.  
 

 
I have a love/hate relationship with the PE in this set.  I believe it's made of some kind of stainless steel or perhaps aluminum.  It doesn't seem to like to glue via CA to plastic very well, but maybe I should have done some more prep in cleaning off any residue or etching it.  On the plus side, it's a lot stronger than brass and holds its shape very well.  My worst nightmare came to be two nights ago when I was trying to glue one of the front quarter panels and it fell onto the floor.  I stepped back out of my chair to a place I was absolutely sure the part wasn't, and ended up stepping squarely on the part. 😡  Not only that, but despite the part being fairly flat, somehow my foot managed to crumple it 🤬  Using pliers, I was able to straighten the part out, so in the end, the modeling gods must have taken pity on me  ☺️  
 
Thanks as always for looking in!
 

Wow, those are great pictures, thanks!  I see what you mean.  Hmm, I have a little time to think about it.  
 
Do you guys know, with the panels off so you can see the engine, access the lift raft, etc., would the wings be folded or not?  Now I'm wondering if I'm going to do a diorama with the engine panels off and the panels off the life raft, maybe folded is not the way to go.  I paid for the Wolfpack set, so I'll probably go with the wings folded.  Maybe instead of a diorama, I just build the Wildcat as a model showing off some of the interior details, sorta like how some people build the models with clear or open exterior parts.

With my foray into plastic, I've done four Accurate Miniatures kits - well, I guess technically two were in-house creations (the F3Fs), while the F4B-4 and the P-6E were repops of some older Monogram kits.  I was looking up other kits with yellow wings and came across the AM Vindicator - I had read about the plane, but never knew what exactly it looked like.  When I found it, I was like, man this is quite the ugly bird, but kinda in an attractive way.  Plus, when I saw there was a yellow wings version available, I was in.  The knock on the kit is that a number of them had an ugly depression in the side of the rear half of the fuselage, which was a pain to fix because it was in that area that looks corrugated.  When I bought the kit from UMM-USA, I asked if the particular kit they were selling had that issue and the owner, John Vojtech, kindly included another set of fuselage halves that look perfect.  What a nice guy!
 
Thanks for the clarification on it being pre-way versus neutrality patrol.  I think I had actually copied those words from either the instructions or another build log, so good to have my terms correct!  I'll probably go with the kit markings, as they are different and I won't have to paint the cowl a separate color. Otherwise, I have the Yellow Wings decals set for this plane and can do it up in the typical fashion of other yellow wings (like the other planes I built) with the belly band, painted cowl and tail, etc.:
 

 

  
For the wing fold, the kit does not include any instructions at all, but includes the insert pieces necessary when you cut the wings in half.  Another gentleman actually went through with it, and posted pictures here:  http://www.hyperscale.com/2008/features/sb2u1cb_1.htm
 

 

Yeah, I usually do that but it's likely user error on my part in not fully getting it down.  Very frustrating!
 
Just went back over your Spitfire log which was very helpful (and came out beautifully).  I didn't fully appreciate the blue tack idea at the time, as I thought you were just trying to avoid cutting out masking tape in the particular shapes for the camo.  Now I see it was to also get the feathering effect.
 
Since I already painted both colors, I'm going to try and feather in a transition by hand.  I don't know that I want to re-mask.  I was originally thinking of using the Vallejo gray rather than the Tamiya white, as the water based properties will be easier to work with.  Then again, maybe the Tamiya will be easier.  The white won't cover the gray as easily as the gray will cover the white, so maybe it's  better to go with the Tamiya white.  I have a bit of the Tamiya decanted so I can try it out.  I'll probably practice using both and see which has the better effect.

I've been spending most of my time working on my 1/700 destroyer, but have been getting in some progress on the Wildcat.  Everything is painted up aside from the life raft, just need to do a few touch ups.  
 

 
I used Tamiya Insignia White for the underside from the rattle can, and Vallejo Dark Gull Gray for the top side.  I really like how the two colors are working together.  
 
Question for everyone - when I look at pictures of the Wildcat, there usually isn't such a sharp line between the colors, but more of a soft transition as if it was overspray.  Any ideas on how to achieve that?  I considered taping just outside the line and spaying a very diluted paint mixture.  I don't know if I want to re-tape, but was thinking about possibly hand brushing a very thinned gray along the line - sorta just pressing the bristles against the line like I was sponge painting.  Any ideas on which would be better?
 
Thanks in advance!

Thanks guys - that’s what I was thinking  when it came to the rigging.  Seems the safer course.
 
Really appreciate all the kind words and encouragement.  I’ve learned a ton on this build.  The early portions like the bridge are rough in some places, but overall I like how it came out and will do better on the next one.  Got to practice with PE, tried using a filter coat, played with weathering enamels, etc.  I thought a destroyer would be a fairly simple subject to cut my teeth on, but man, there were a ton of nice details in the Five Star upgrade package.
 
I should have mentioned a couple of small details I added.  The life rings are pre-painted PE from Eduard - how cool is that!  Easy to install.  Also on the starboard side there is a rack along the rear deck structure.  Looks like racks like that held wood for repairs, so I cut little splinters of some leftover tanganyika from my Badger build, wiped them in wipe on poly to bring the wood a little life, then glued them down.  Nice little touch I think. 
 
If the model came out ok, I was thinking about waiting to put it in a waterline diorama setting until I had a few more of these, but I might put it on a base sooner rather than later.  I’m pretty happy with it so I think the waterline is a go and will look into how to do it at this scale.  The slightest bumps and touches bend pieces so having it on a base should give it a little more protection.
 
Last week I dusted off the 1/350 Shimakaze and started working on it.  After working in 1/700, the tiniest of the 1/350 is no sweat.  Looking forward  to bringing that one to life, but will probably add another 1/700 build as a side build.  I might have added a few 1/700 kits to the stash 🤪

Just about at the finish line.  Everything is assembled, just need to add the rigging.  I played around with some naval enamels from AK so I'll let those dry over the next few days, and then add a matt clear coat.
 
I'm wondering about adding a clear coat after the rigging.  I'm planning to probably use EZ-Line - would it be ok to rig the ship now, and then clear coat at the end?  Or should I first clear coat and then rig the ship?  I figure the clear coat won't effect the EZ-Line, but just wondering if anyone has any experience on this.  
 

 

 

 
Thanks for looking in!
 
 

Made some more progress.  Got the final 10 AA guns installed, along with some ammo crates and other assorted items.  This one in particular was fun:
 
 

 

 

 
I ended up spraying a coat of Future so I can start the wash and weathering process.  Here are some shots of what it looks like.  I always cringe when I post these, and have to remind myself that they are taken at high magnification:
 

 

 

 

 

 
On the final stretch.  Thanks for looking in!
 

Lou and EG, those are some nice looking ships.  To be honest, I'm not as familiar on the US side.  Wonder if there's just more interest in Japanese ships out there?  
 
I like the Pensacola and the St. Louis class looks like a really cool one with the camo, deck details, etc.  
 

 
 

Ha!  You know what's funny?  I actually enjoyed this build a lot.  My plane builds have been filled with frustrations from painting, breaking things and having to repair them, etc.  Then I recently tried a new paint on a couple of car builds and the paint ran too hot and it crazed the plastic.  This 1/700 build was fairly uneventful - just a lot of Optivisor work.

Quote of the month there lol

Wow, very nice subject!  The Italians sure know how to add elements of design to many things - cars, ships, planes, clothing, jewelry, etc.  Not sure about the practicality, but they definitely make beautiful things!

Beautiful work as always Greg.  Nice job!

Hey thanks very much!  Sorry to have missed that you replied on my log.  You should definitely put up a build log as there are a lot of helpful people on here.  
 
At some point I do want to get back to this model as I visited the real one a few years ago.  Too many modeling interests, too little time unfortunately 😩

No type 45 for me at the moment mate, and unfortunately the link for the Merlin is the same one as they already make and I have but thanks for trying 

Someone aught to post a review on them and inform people about the size discrepancy....... It's amazing on what eventually becomes usable over time....
 
Does anyone make an accurate one?
 
I wonder if these will be better...
 
https://www.wonderlandmodels.com/products/trumpeter-1350-eh-101-merlin/
 
Not available yet though not even pre-order....
 
There is another option....
 
https://us.airfix.com/products/type-45-destroyer-a12203
 
It has a Merlin with it, and from this article on Brit Modeler it's in scale.... (but then it would give you another 1/350 ship to build)

Brother,
 
Trumpeter does do a 1/350 Merlin....
 
1/350 AW-101 Merlin/EH-101 (3 aircrafts) (if you happen to like BNAModelworld, it's available on evil bay and several other sources as well as well)
 
The more modern aircraft does look better IMHO......
 

So the kit comes with a Lynx helicopter and the upgrade has some nice upgrade bits. I wanted to try some other options so got a Merlin set and PE for it. Bad news is it is WAY out of scale and does not fit in the hangar. So be it. 

Thanks guys for the kind words.  Really appreciate it!
 
Jim, so far ebony has been really nice to work with.  It's not pear or boxwood, but it machines very nicely (it's a very hard, dense wood, so I don't use hand tools on it as much).  If you look back on my log, you can see the kinds of bends I've managed to get on thinner pieces (if trying to bend thicker stock, I'd consider starting with a thicker piece than you need and sanding the curve in if wetting/heating doesn't work). In a lot of respects it's nicer than some of the walnut I've worked with, where if you happen to bend it in an area where there is a slight pit, the walnut will quickly snap on you.  I do try to be careful of the dust, so I vacuum and wipe down the pieces after working then with a paper towel (because the wood is oily, wiping it easily gets rid of the dust).   
 
There's certainly a lot of negative commentary on ebony here.  I think like most things though, if you know ahead of time the properties of what you're working with and plan accordingly, you can make it work.  Personally, I enjoy the challenge and prefer the look of natural wood on my builds.  Paints give a plastic look in my opinion, and while dyes and stains look really nice, I still think ebony outclasses them by far.