MEDDO

After going throughout he image files associated with the build I found the following picture.  This from LSS/Bob Hunt
 

 
 
So I guess the kit is definitely designed to be like this.
 
 This is a picture from The Colonial Schooner by Harold Hahn.  You can also see the "gap" is built into this.  
 

 
You can see the space between the frames f-b as well as the large air space between b and a.
 
 
 
 
Yup I see that now.  Seems a bit too "high" as it were.  I am sure it is contributing to the problem.  Not much I can do about that now I guess.  Will definitely be more aware of this when doing the next build.

Just a quick update.  I was able to sand down the gun ports and I think everything is good to go there.  I put in the keelson tonight.  I thought it looked a bit funny as the keelson doesn't sit onto of the keel in between the frames.  I double checked the plans, image files, instructions and it seems like it is supposed to be like that.  I was also able to find a picture in my copy of  THE COLONIAL SCHOONER 1763-1775 by Harold Hahn that also appeared like it was intended... O well.  One of the nice things being a beginner is that you don't know what you don't know.  It may or may not be historically correct but it looks good to me.
 

 

 
 

Top masts and topgallant masts are completed.

After longer break. a few more images - I finished the production of the yards.

finished pics

Just a quick update.  I was able to sand down the gun ports and I think everything is good to go there.  I put in the keelson tonight.  I thought it looked a bit funny as the keelson doesn't sit onto of the keel in between the frames.  I double checked the plans, image files, instructions and it seems like it is supposed to be like that.  I was also able to find a picture in my copy of  THE COLONIAL SCHOONER 1763-1775 by Harold Hahn that also appeared like it was intended... O well.  One of the nice things being a beginner is that you don't know what you don't know.  It may or may not be historically correct but it looks good to me.
 

 

 
 

After going throughout he image files associated with the build I found the following picture.  This from LSS/Bob Hunt
 

 
 
So I guess the kit is definitely designed to be like this.
 
 This is a picture from The Colonial Schooner by Harold Hahn.  You can also see the "gap" is built into this.  
 

 
You can see the space between the frames f-b as well as the large air space between b and a.
 
 
 
 
Yup I see that now.  Seems a bit too "high" as it were.  I am sure it is contributing to the problem.  Not much I can do about that now I guess.  Will definitely be more aware of this when doing the next build.

Wow, has it really been since May 11 as my last update?  Time sure does fly sometimes.
 
Well, work has been going, albeit slowly.  Now that end-of-school activities are over, and my daughter has graduated high school, I can finally post an update.
 
I've been working on the yards - there are 4 total (just the one mast obviously), and I've been attaching blocks, doing the footropes and adding the spars.
 
Here's the result:
 

 

 

 
Next up, the part I've been dreading - the main mast insertion.  I'm pretty convinced that I won't need to glue it as it's a snug fit through the 3 decks and into the hull, and the shrouds should hold it in place as well.  I am a bit worried about the strength of the lower deadeyes, and I'm still working out in my head how to best attach the shrouds to the upper deadeyes, rig the two dead eyes and keep them all as even and level as I can.
 
Here's my thoughts on how to do it:
 
1.  Since there are only 3 shrouds per side, I was going to tie and seize the 4 lines at the mast top first (2 lines per side, one will go to the center deadeye, and the other will go to the two outer deadeyes)
2.  Make a wire jig to guide and attach the lower deadeye to the upper one
3.  Tie and seize (tightly) the shroud to the upper deadeye when it's held in place by the wire jig
4.  Remove the wire jig and add the rigging through the deadeyes.  I figure if I pull the rigging tight enough it will return the upper deadeye to it's jigged position.
5.  Repeat for all the other shroud/deadeyes - hoping this will result in a strong, level, even set.
 
If anyone has any advice or better ideas, I'm all ears.  
 
Andy.

Just a quick update.  I was able to sand down the gun ports and I think everything is good to go there.  I put in the keelson tonight.  I thought it looked a bit funny as the keelson doesn't sit onto of the keel in between the frames.  I double checked the plans, image files, instructions and it seems like it is supposed to be like that.  I was also able to find a picture in my copy of  THE COLONIAL SCHOONER 1763-1775 by Harold Hahn that also appeared like it was intended... O well.  One of the nice things being a beginner is that you don't know what you don't know.  It may or may not be historically correct but it looks good to me.
 

 

 
 

A minor milestone -- work on the gun deck is complete. I have made, installed and rigged the last four guns, added their deck ringbolts and made and installed the jeer capstan, the second of the three required capstans. I also tied the line for the main course tacks to their bulwark cleats.
 
The guns were done the same way as all the others (very glad to be done with them). The capstan was done in boxwood, with a pear cap The pawls (stops) were also made from boxwood, painted black and added to the deck.
 
Next up will be the deck framing for the gangboards (midship decking).
 
Bob

Just a quick update.  I was able to sand down the gun ports and I think everything is good to go there.  I put in the keelson tonight.  I thought it looked a bit funny as the keelson doesn't sit onto of the keel in between the frames.  I double checked the plans, image files, instructions and it seems like it is supposed to be like that.  I was also able to find a picture in my copy of  THE COLONIAL SCHOONER 1763-1775 by Harold Hahn that also appeared like it was intended... O well.  One of the nice things being a beginner is that you don't know what you don't know.  It may or may not be historically correct but it looks good to me.
 

 

 
 

I'm not an expert in planking, and all that methods are created and described by other builders.
Highly recommend to read Longboat build logs from Bob F and Stuntflyer, and of course Chuck's manual.
Plus there are lots of good tutorials in downloads section on this website.
 
But maybe my photos and description would be useful for somebody, so why not posting them.
 
Decide how many plank streaks are you going to have. Manual suggests 12, Bob was using 13, some people use 11. Pretty much depends on width of your planks and desired "curvature" of a hull. Wrong number of streaks is not a big deal, but if  streak width is too small, then you will need to make plank thinner to fit into reference lines.
 
Make a card template for reference lines. Length of a template is equal to length of biggest bulkhead, and it's broken down into 12 parts using template available in downloads section of this website:

 
Mark top plank line. "Default" line is suggested on a plans, and you can adjust it to get a more/less banana-shaped hull.
Then, starting from that line, add marks on bulkheads:

 
Now you can easily see the lines of future planks. Not sure I got it right in the bow, I remember that on Pinnace I tapered planks a lot of fit them on a bow. Maybe this time I will avoid it, or my reference lines on a bow are wrong

 
I will start planking from bottom to the top, to have even plank thickness and avoid "meeting" in between. Reference lines will help to make sure that both sides of the hull will be planked symmetrically.
Plank edge is shaped to fit with next plank or keel on a proper angle. I think it's very important, otherwise it's really hard to have no gaps. It's a very obvious thing that is not mentioned anywhere, strange.
Edge not shaped:

Shaped edge:

 
Then I sand inside surface of the plank. It would be very hard to do it later. I use 1200 -> 2000 grits for boxwood, it adds a really nice shine. It makes gluing a bit harder, though. Using sanding block to avoid smoothing plank edges. 

 
Then I soak plank in a hot water for 10-20 seconds, shape it gently with hands, and clamp onto the hull. I use a very simple clamps recommended on this forum: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/611-easy-planking-clamps
For basswood, make sure you put some wood or card between them and planks. For hard wood, that could be not necessary.
Notice the bend of gardboard plank closer to stern. Better select a plank with fibers oriented on same angle, then this bend would be easier and plank will not break:

 
I will shape the front part of gardboard plank when it's dry and fit to shape.

 
So now let's leave it for a few hours and have a rest! This method of planking is slow, basically one plank streak on a day. If planks is glued too early - it will shrink and leave a tiny gap.
 
 

Just a quick update.  I was able to sand down the gun ports and I think everything is good to go there.  I put in the keelson tonight.  I thought it looked a bit funny as the keelson doesn't sit onto of the keel in between the frames.  I double checked the plans, image files, instructions and it seems like it is supposed to be like that.  I was also able to find a picture in my copy of  THE COLONIAL SCHOONER 1763-1775 by Harold Hahn that also appeared like it was intended... O well.  One of the nice things being a beginner is that you don't know what you don't know.  It may or may not be historically correct but it looks good to me.
 

 

 
 

Just a quick update.  I was able to sand down the gun ports and I think everything is good to go there.  I put in the keelson tonight.  I thought it looked a bit funny as the keelson doesn't sit onto of the keel in between the frames.  I double checked the plans, image files, instructions and it seems like it is supposed to be like that.  I was also able to find a picture in my copy of  THE COLONIAL SCHOONER 1763-1775 by Harold Hahn that also appeared like it was intended... O well.  One of the nice things being a beginner is that you don't know what you don't know.  It may or may not be historically correct but it looks good to me.
 

 

 
 

Just a quick update.  I was able to sand down the gun ports and I think everything is good to go there.  I put in the keelson tonight.  I thought it looked a bit funny as the keelson doesn't sit onto of the keel in between the frames.  I double checked the plans, image files, instructions and it seems like it is supposed to be like that.  I was also able to find a picture in my copy of  THE COLONIAL SCHOONER 1763-1775 by Harold Hahn that also appeared like it was intended... O well.  One of the nice things being a beginner is that you don't know what you don't know.  It may or may not be historically correct but it looks good to me.
 

 

 
 

Nice to see the baby emerge from the crib Michael. I hope your gunport issue gets resolved to your satisfaction.

Nice Michael, she looks great out of the crib!
 
As for planking practice, if that's all you really want to do, just buy a cheap kit and have at it, it's all just practice and finding a way that you are comfortable with to get the desired results.
 
Ben

She looks good out of the building board.   The wipe on poly looks perfect.

Congratulations Michael on cutting her out of the jig. Looking fantastic.
 
Alan

So here it is yesterday while applying the last coat of wipe on poly.
 

 
And here she is now.
 

So here it is yesterday while applying the last coat of wipe on poly.
 

 
And here she is now.
 

So here it is yesterday while applying the last coat of wipe on poly.
 

 
And here she is now.
 

So here it is yesterday while applying the last coat of wipe on poly.
 

 
And here she is now.
 

So here is a question for you...
 
Now that I am done with the planking for this ship, eventually I will try to plank something else.  I have found the articles on the front page of this website and read them all.  It seems fairly logical and not too difficult.  
 
My question is.  Is there a way to practice this easily?  Is there some kit or way that you can inexpensively practice planking.  I was thinking about the MS Longboat or the Pinnace as there seems to be many here building them as either main build or side builds to complement a larger ship.  Would there be anything else.  
 
Here is my very first build, the Midwest Indian Girl canoe
 

 
I didn't know anything about beveling/spilling/tapering etc....  The planks were almost square to start with.  The outside is satin smooth, and the inside... is not.
 
 
 
 
 
With the Halifax I am on the finish sanding and wipe on poly stage prior to releasing from the building board.

So here it is yesterday while applying the last coat of wipe on poly.
 

 
And here she is now.