Foremast
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This is the story (included the Sea Hag) that I also know. In Italy were broadcasted some short cartoons, where Pappy (called "Trinchetto" - Foremast) was a drunkard, slacker and tightfisted man. He was always a serious problem for his son Popeye (called "Iron Arm" - Braccio di Ferro), especially when Popeye entrusted him with his son (called "Little Pea" - Pisellino). Cheers Alex -
Sculptures are really well done! Compliments! Another question: how did you make hull's nailing and caulking? Regards Alex
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I agree with Augie. I'm sure you'll easily be able to manage every modification you'll decide. The shape of Corel's false keel seems not far different from 1909's replica. I've found in internet these two pictures (the first, Wikipedia - the second is a postcard for sale). If they can help you .... Cheers Alex
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I love a lot the first sailing replica of HM (burnt in 1909) but I discovered it too late, when I had already done my changes looking at the second replica, still sailing. I think modelbouwers.nl sells very good quality HM's drawings, perhaps they're closed to first replica's reproduction; I'm sure you already know it! In my opinion Corel (that's a quite a good brand) supplies a not great bow in its HM. There, I had any problems also with a couple of ribs: the forecastle's bulwark didn't follow the correct shape. It almost seemed that Corel had swapped third and fourth rib. "almost" ... because if I had really swapped them (I tryed to do this ), the result would had been worse .... I'll have been following your very interesting work. Cheers Alex
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Hi Anja, I like a lot Halve Maen and your nice log. You're doing a very good work and I like your idea to make a different bow. I did this model a few years ago (photos are in "completed model" section) and I also modified the bow, following - more or less - the modern replica's shape. If I could go back, I'd share your choice. Regards Alex
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This is an amazing log, Michiel! Did you make sculptures by yourself? Alex
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Hi Arjan, thanks for your visit! I lke a lot Fluyts and perhaps one of them will be my next model. I'll follow your work. I'm already working on Fluyt "Anna Maria" Cheers Alex
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It took me a long time to find a satisfying method. First, I tried to colour the thinnest face of every wooden strip, but color seeped into wood fibers. Then I tried with thin black bristol sheets between wooden strips, but the work seemed me not realistic: despite a regular sanding, bristol continued to seem ... paper not tar. Then I tried with thin black threads between strips, but it didn't convince me, because of the irregular (and too deep) width of wooden strips. Finally, I tested the method above but ... the blackened glue penetrated in the deck's wood and the result would have been good only for an aged-effect. I tested again with a previous treatment with largely thinned impregnating and the result is what showed in the photos taken: glue simulates tar and its slightly irregular path (even a little lowering with the final drying) and penetrates deeply, to the bottom of the junction. You can see it in the last photo of my previous message. If I had known before what Tony has said ... perhaps I would have saved a lot of time ... !!!!! Given a look to previous photos, someone told me he got seasickness
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Some picture of full-caulked deck and internal planked bulwarks. Planking was made with mansonia-walnut strips (size: 1x5 mm.) treated with wood stain (color: Wengè wood).
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Just him! "Foremast" ("Trinchetto") is the italian name of "Pappy". Hello, Sonny! Alex
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Yes, Augie ... I think this better represens my actual situation!
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Great work, Augie! Masting and rigging are Amazing! Alex
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Hi, B.E.! Sometimes it happens that I must stop my work because I've a specific problem to solve. Caulking was a long stop! I made many different tests, until I found a way, that one I've just described in the previous post. I add a detail: when you scrape the deck, glue must be not too wet and not too dry ... Not too wet: you risk to remove glue from junctions. Not too dry: it becomes hardly difficult to scrape the surface. I saw the deck planking scheme around the margins in Mondfeld's book "Historic ship models" (page 99) and in an Italian book Bassi-Ostan "Costruiamo un modello di nave a vela" ["Let's build a sailing shipmodel"] vol. I, pag 126-129, where it's called "continental/french method". Best regards Alex
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Thanks, Sinan! These pictures show deck's caulking. I did it in this way: - first, I blackened vinilic glue with specific additive for paints. Some drops of it are enough to blacken sufficient glue without compromising its grip. - then, I painted the deck's surface with thinned impregnating varnish. A thin film of impregnating avoids glue penetration in the wood's surface - then, I "cleaned" all junctions with the top edge of a cutter blade. I used it reversed, to dig a bit every junction, so removing every remaining of impregnating in them. - then I smeared black glue on the deck, with fingers, pushing the glue into every Junction. The first effect was terrible, hands and deck were all blackened and I thought - for a moment - I had made a great stupid thing. But ... It's easy to remove vinilic glue from the skin, even when glue is black! - in the end, I scraped the deck's surface with a cutter's blade and .... the result is shown in the pictures here attached Regards Alex
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Maple wood can really take any finish you desire. Maple wood, as any wood, must be however absolutely clean: no glue tracks or you'll have white dots on the surface of your timber. I use also pear wood and mansonia walnut wood. Pear wood has the same good working features of maple.
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Augie, your valutation is very generous ... ! I discovered maple timber for chance. When I need wooden strips (timber in general) I prefer to see, touch, feel them between my fingers. A couple of years ago I needed some lime wood strips, so I went to the shop and found what seemed very good lime wood: thin, compact, brightly white. I chose 20 strips, than I leaned them on the shopkeeper's table. "Billing: 8 euros [a bit more 10 dollars], please", he told me. "Whaaaat? Perhaps are these ... gilded lime strips?" I answered, "20 strips of lime wood cannot cost more than 4 euros!". He explained me I was wrong ... that one was maple wood, not lime and showed me that it's more durable and elastic, making a knot with a strip of that wood. I was enthusiast and bought those all 20. I also discovered, during my model building, that you can cut maple wood strips with absolute precision and the edge of the cut is perfectly shaped, without splinters. Cheers Alex
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Thanks for your visit, Paul! The central section of the deck was made with wooden strips side to side, without axes simulation, because there will be placed a superstructure. I used maple timber to try a clear white effect; with a final straw oil treatment It darkens a bit and the color becomes truely interesting Alex
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Hi Mark, we could start a poll about this ship's identification. Whatever it is, I have been trying to reproduce - as close as possible - what appears in the first picture of the previous message. It is a XV century painting of my ship, so indipendently by what kind of ship it was, it would have had to exist. More or less ...!!! New photos, deck planking and internal bulwark. Cheers Alex
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Arjan, you're doing a very interesting build. I'll follow your work .... perhaps my next model will be a Dutch fluyt, so ... I'll see every step of this log! You said Mantua has the only kit available about Fluyts. I know another brand with this kind of ship in its catalogue: Euromodel has the "Derfflinger". It's an old project based on the drawings attached to an old book ("Risse von schiffen ...") . If you're interested, here is a description of that kit http://www.euromodel-ship.com/derfflinger.html#axzz2MCyAW1AF
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Let's start the log. I haven't got picture about drawing and cutting ribs any more, but I think that isn't so interesting. Here is the ship's skeleton (poplar wood, 5 mm, 5 layers), and first planking; the model was designed in double planking. The upper part of the first planking was made with mansonia-walnut timber, the lower part with lime timber. I made the upper part with walnut because of some holes in the bulwark: if I had made all planking with lime wood... I would have had an effect like bread and butter, where internal holes would have been white (first planking, lime) and brown (second planking, walnut). In the first picture, the imagine that has been inspiring me the changes to the original project (second picture). You'll see those changes forward. Regards Foremast
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hello frineds, thanks for your visit in this log! I agree, this is a strange ship and it's dificult to identify it in only one type (Cog, Nao, Carrack, Nave tonda). His designer called it in origin "Hansekogge" (Hanseatic Cog), so I've decided to continue / to restart using this name. I only have tried to respect its shape - as shown in ancient paintings - but, youll'see ... the model is full of mistakes ... anyway I got fond of it!!!! Obviously, in this log everyone is free to call this ship as he feels Cheers Foremast [edit] I've edited the title of my log. Mates, you're right: "Ship", I think, is better. @ Christian. Glad to see you again! What's a "holk"?
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Dear friends, this evening I’ve found the time to restart my log. I propose you again the step by step building of an Hanseatic Cog. Perhaps it’s a Carrack or something close to it, as told me in the previous log, but I’ll continue to call it “Cog” as his designer did. I used Heinrich Winter’s plans (Das Hanseschiff im ausgehenden 15.Jahrhundert – Delius Klasing ed.), a bit modified with the evidences of some pictures of ancient paintings found in the web. During my work I've imagined to be on the Baltic Sea, where - between the '300 and early '500 lots of typical boats sailed the waves of what was one of the first forms of trade cooperation between cities belonging to different social and political entities: the Hanseatic League. I’ve decided to choose the city of Lubeck: my Cog will have its insignas (red and white colour). Now the ship is about 70% made, but I've managed building pictures, so this log will show the work from its beginning. The final ship will be, more or less, as shown in the picture with its upper parts red and white coloured. Regards, Foremast
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I think, when the theme is the historical reproduction, any insignia should be admitted: it is an important part of the ship, as shown in a particular era, period, year. Like historical movies ... no one can think to erase some images of the film or censor flags, symbols, or other similar stuff ... they are part of the movie itself. In my country, heavily beaten by dictatorship before and during WWII is forbidden every apology of that period and its symbols, but it is admitted either their reproduction or exhibition for historycal, artistic, discussion reasons. I don't know extra-Italy rules, neither this forum's policy, so ... in the dubt and for the respect of all people's sensitiveness, I have preferred to erase the celtic crosses.
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Hi Paul, I've found these mimetic patterns. I've deleted celtic crosses because I don't know if this forum admits this kind of symbol. The scheme march-July 43 (as shown in the original tag) is the second, wehereas the first is until february '43 and the third since september '43. Correct? Regards Alex
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