jburchfield1@wowway.com
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Everything posted by jburchfield1@wowway.com
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Please, as a grandfather myself, let me add my condolences to the others. Even with my own grandchildren, I've been lucky and can't really conceive of the pain of this loss. I've been "lurking" in the wings since the beginning (but as a brand new shipbuilder, I can add little to the conversation), but I do have a couple of questions if I may. 1. What does the phrase "rising wood" mean? 2. Is their a link/location that I could see this "EdT's Rolls Royce jig utilising the Rockler T track system" -
Thanks for the info Mike.
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One quick question about the scarf joint. Did you cut that using just a blade (x-acto)?
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Mike, thank you very much for the picture of the faired hull. It appears from the picture that you have "beveled/faired" the bulkhead in a single direction, that being fore to aft. Is that correct? Please tell me that's right? The reason I ask is because that may be my "major malfunction". I have been fairing the bulkheads in two directions - both fore/aft as well as along the bearding line and that has been causing a gap between the bulkhead and plank when I reach the 3rd/4th plank from the sheer line. And I have to thank you again for all the pictures and step by step. Answering a lot of questions.
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Really learning some things, Mike. You are getting to the part where I have the most trouble - fairing/planking Keep going dude!
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Thanks Mark, I've also been thinking about using oversize and cutting/sanding to fit so I only have to bend on the face and not the edge. I wouldn't want anyone to see my longboat at this stage (maybe never) as there are a lot of gaps, dings, etc., but I'm sure learning a lot about what can/cannot be done. It has basically become an experimental platform. Of course once I'm done experimenting/learning I can always remove ALL the planking and then do it right.
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How come I can't edge bend a strip without buckling? It's not related to soak time - I've used 5 minutes to 4 hours, boiling water. I'm trying to bend around a form that's about 11/2 to 2 inches in diameter. Is that too small a bend? On another note I've ordered a 1200 watt blow dryer that I can use with my "antique" wiring - so that'll speed things up a little bit.
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Guess I'm gonna have to buy me a Lego set
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The most silent disk sander
jburchfield1@wowway.com replied to Mike Y's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Can't tell from the picture, but putting rubber discs on the bottom of the sander might insulate it from the table and reduce the noise if it's too loud? Just noticed somebody else already suggested this. -
Floyd - Yes I found out about their guarantee. Best guarantee I've ever heard of. I just felt that by buying the kit a second time I would have ALL of the duplicate parts in case of future mess-up? Buying both kits only cost me $69 which I felt was more than fair. My daughter is 38 going on 12 sometimes - believes that her father should still support her but not require anything from her.
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Liking all the pictures Mike!
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Yeah, me too! Didn't understand the concept of lining off and also the idea of dropping tick marks. After putting on the first 2 sheer planks, I was looking at the rest and wondering how to get 10 planks to fill the first really small bulkhead without tapering them to a point. Also, looking at the hull with only the 2 sheer planks and the garplank, I was envisioning ending up with a small triangular section un-planked, considering that the upper blanks "bend" upward, and the 2nd plank up from the garboard must "bend" downward. I'm gonna take the garboard planks off and line the bulkheads, maybe that'll show me some sense. And I did look at Bob's build, that's what helped me see what I was doing wrong. Thank you Chuck and Bob.
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I was looking at that first link you posted and I think I see what I've been doing wrong. 1st my garboard plank has too abrupt a curve to it. Gonna have to remake those. No big deal. 2nd I noticed that Bob dropped a tick mark on the bulkhead forward of where the garboard plank begins which solves the other problem I was having. Also, I noticed that after 3 or 4 planks up the downward curve of the planks disappears which solves the last problem I was envisioning. Still want to see lots of pics tho!
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Mike, I am very interested since I am working on this right now, and having some planking issues. (Probably overthinking it.) Please can you give lots and lots of details and pictures when planking? I learn best by seeing it done as opposed to reading it. I have put on the first two sheer planks and the gar plank. But when I look at the pictures in the instruction book and compare what the instructions say to the build something doesn't make sense. I don't have a camera yet so I can't show you what I mean, but I can follow your pictures and see how Biggest issue is the plank after the gar plank.
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I am currently trying to decide if I want to do the Mayflower (which has the lines that I like best) or the Rattlesnake (because it's an armed (cannons) ship)). Both are on sale at Model Expo. If you don't mind, I am going to follow your build as closely as possible. Looks really good so far, and I'm kinda leaning toward this one, although I didn't realize that the Mayflower had cannons?
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K, making progress. Got the hull faired correctly and have installed the first 2 sheer planks, both starboard and port. No pictures yet. I had borrowed a camera from my daughter and she is angry with me at this time. Sometimes you wonder if they are ever gonna grow up! So looking for a camera that I can afford. Pics to come.
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Congratulation Mike, looks great!!! Hope I can do half as well.
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Got my new kit today and have started rebuilding the hull. Not going to use CA this time, just wood glue. One question tho, for those more knowledgable about gluing. Normal gluing procedure (furniture, etc) requires that both surfaces be coated with glue. Do you find that necessary with basswood? or does applying glue to one surface work considering the porosity of the wood?
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That's awesome work Mike.
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Mark - thanks a lot for that link. After looking at them I see my errors (and they are definitely ALL mine). Main thing was rushing - bad habit I've got. What was really brain-dead (on my part) I had one of them bookmarked so I could use it when I got to that point and failed to go back and look at it. Yeah, the bulkhead is in the right spot. I'm not sure how I got it too small. I'm positive it was not a kit error either. I had forgotten about acetone loosening the CA, but after looking things over again today, I realized that when I supposedly faired the bulkheads, I totally blew it when I beveled them up in a curve following the bearding line instead of toward the stern as required. So that being the case, I ordered the new kit today and will just remake the hull. As a plus, that'll give me a lot of spare parts for future boo-boo's. Got to learn to put some kind of "governor" on my hurry up attitude. Well, lesson learned (I hope). Thanks for your help.
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K, new kit ordered. Gonna work on the mast and stuff till I get it.
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Glad to see you solved that problem Mike. I'm a long way from blackening but keeping track of the tips/tricks for when I get there.
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If you don't mind, I'm gonna follow this build. Can we get LOTS of details when you fair the bulkheads? I totally destroyed mine
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K, hit a major non-repairable snag. Got the first two planks on (each side). Somehow, (not sure how since I used a block) the second bulkhead from the stem is too small, causing a major "sinking" of the planks. Gotta re-order the kit since I was using CA and can not get it apart. But as Arnold says, "I'll be back". PS Next time gonna use plain old wood glue. BTW anybody know of a video tute on fairing the bulkheads (maybe I can see what I did wrong?)
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LOL that's kinda what's happened. I'll jump in immediately!! Thanks Chuck.
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