Shazmira

Hello all,
 
      We all lost a dear friend, great supporter and member of our Shipbuilding family when Augie Bruno passed in December.  No one was as proud of his work or shared in his enjoyment of the hobby more than his lovely wife Diane.
 
    After being contacted by Popeye, Diane expressed how helpful and wonderful it would be if someone were able to finish Augie’s work on the Confederacy – both as a tribute to Augie, and as a way to keep us all connected with his memory. As Augie and Diane’s home is only about 15 miles from me, I was asked if I would be willing to take over Augie’s build.  
 
    I had the pleasure of sharing a cup of coffee, some delightful cookies, and even more delightful stories with Diane – and she assured me that this is indeed what Augie would have wanted.
 
     So, it is with a warm heart, and substantial amount of humility that I’ll pick up where Augie left off.
 
     Thanks already - and in advance to Anja, Popeye, Mark and Sjors for their support. I’ll do my best give Augie’s build justice, and do right by Augie and Diane.  
 
    As it stands – I’m embroiled in research, as this is my first American built ship, and I feel it’s important to get to know her as much as I can before I continue the build. Hope to have some actual progress to show soon, but in the meantime – here she is in her new shipyard.
 

 
 
- Bug

I've never used one but I think the ponce wheel would be a good alternative.  And I think we've all had those moments, I know I have, where after you post something you slam the heel of your hand into your forehead and say 'what an idiot'.   

You understood my last question perfectly. I was not aware I had to cut the tape into small plates after stamping (so yes, I am in idiot). That thought actually occurred to me during the middle of the night and I woke up and went DOH.
I did try the pressing and rocking method as well, and got almost no imprint at all. I feel like my nails are too blunt, and as they are so close together in that tiny little space I do not have a file thin enough to try to "sharpen" them a it.
When I struck with a hammer, it felt like the stamp was "jumping" slightly and the results look that way as well, as some of the "rivets" appear double struck, you know what I mean, just a hair off on the second strike.
After I posted this I read through all the posts on coppering I could find in the "How Too" forum. I am thinking I will hobble my way into the basement today and go through my grandmas old sewing kit and see if I can find her old ponce wheel. I know using this will not leave the proper pattern behind, but I beleive it will be better than leaving the plates blank, as the instructions also suggest

Progress has been made. I completed the planking of the inside of the bulwarks, and constructed, attached and painted my cap rails.
 

 

 
Then I attempted to move on to the next step which is to put in my margin plank, then lay the planks on the deck. Well....that is on hold, as I discovered the two laser cut pieces I used for the bow of my cap rail were supposed to be the margin planks at the bow. I attempted to use the cut outs as a template and cut them from some spare wood I had laying around, but I ran into all kinds of problems. If I used wood the proper thickness, then because the curve often goes against the grain, my pieces kept breaking. So I broke down and contacted Model Expo for a replacement sheet for those parts. Now I am waiting, waiting, waiting. lol
 
While I am waiting, I built the jig for stamping my copper according to Chuck's included plans. The jig itself was quite easy to build, the stamps however are proving more difficult. I made them, drilled the tiny little holes into which I dropped nails, but then of course when cutting the nails it was impossible to get them all to the same length. No problem thought I, I just used a metal file to bring them all to the same height.
However, when putting them to actual use, the imprint I am getting on the copper tape, is not very clear at all. I have never done coppering before, so I am not sure if it is my stamps, or my technique. How in the world do you get a nice clear "stamp" onto the copper tape?
The other question I have, is in the real world, this would have been done with plates (which have edges). When using the copper tape, how do you you make it look as if it is individual plates?
Any suggestions on coppering are wlecome!
 

You understood my last question perfectly. I was not aware I had to cut the tape into small plates after stamping (so yes, I am in idiot). That thought actually occurred to me during the middle of the night and I woke up and went DOH.
I did try the pressing and rocking method as well, and got almost no imprint at all. I feel like my nails are too blunt, and as they are so close together in that tiny little space I do not have a file thin enough to try to "sharpen" them a it.
When I struck with a hammer, it felt like the stamp was "jumping" slightly and the results look that way as well, as some of the "rivets" appear double struck, you know what I mean, just a hair off on the second strike.
After I posted this I read through all the posts on coppering I could find in the "How Too" forum. I am thinking I will hobble my way into the basement today and go through my grandmas old sewing kit and see if I can find her old ponce wheel. I know using this will not leave the proper pattern behind, but I beleive it will be better than leaving the plates blank, as the instructions also suggest

Progress has been made. I completed the planking of the inside of the bulwarks, and constructed, attached and painted my cap rails.
 

 

 
Then I attempted to move on to the next step which is to put in my margin plank, then lay the planks on the deck. Well....that is on hold, as I discovered the two laser cut pieces I used for the bow of my cap rail were supposed to be the margin planks at the bow. I attempted to use the cut outs as a template and cut them from some spare wood I had laying around, but I ran into all kinds of problems. If I used wood the proper thickness, then because the curve often goes against the grain, my pieces kept breaking. So I broke down and contacted Model Expo for a replacement sheet for those parts. Now I am waiting, waiting, waiting. lol
 
While I am waiting, I built the jig for stamping my copper according to Chuck's included plans. The jig itself was quite easy to build, the stamps however are proving more difficult. I made them, drilled the tiny little holes into which I dropped nails, but then of course when cutting the nails it was impossible to get them all to the same length. No problem thought I, I just used a metal file to bring them all to the same height.
However, when putting them to actual use, the imprint I am getting on the copper tape, is not very clear at all. I have never done coppering before, so I am not sure if it is my stamps, or my technique. How in the world do you get a nice clear "stamp" onto the copper tape?
The other question I have, is in the real world, this would have been done with plates (which have edges). When using the copper tape, how do you you make it look as if it is individual plates?
Any suggestions on coppering are wlecome!
 

Progress has been made. I completed the planking of the inside of the bulwarks, and constructed, attached and painted my cap rails.
 

 

 
Then I attempted to move on to the next step which is to put in my margin plank, then lay the planks on the deck. Well....that is on hold, as I discovered the two laser cut pieces I used for the bow of my cap rail were supposed to be the margin planks at the bow. I attempted to use the cut outs as a template and cut them from some spare wood I had laying around, but I ran into all kinds of problems. If I used wood the proper thickness, then because the curve often goes against the grain, my pieces kept breaking. So I broke down and contacted Model Expo for a replacement sheet for those parts. Now I am waiting, waiting, waiting. lol
 
While I am waiting, I built the jig for stamping my copper according to Chuck's included plans. The jig itself was quite easy to build, the stamps however are proving more difficult. I made them, drilled the tiny little holes into which I dropped nails, but then of course when cutting the nails it was impossible to get them all to the same length. No problem thought I, I just used a metal file to bring them all to the same height.
However, when putting them to actual use, the imprint I am getting on the copper tape, is not very clear at all. I have never done coppering before, so I am not sure if it is my stamps, or my technique. How in the world do you get a nice clear "stamp" onto the copper tape?
The other question I have, is in the real world, this would have been done with plates (which have edges). When using the copper tape, how do you you make it look as if it is individual plates?
Any suggestions on coppering are wlecome!
 

You understood my last question perfectly. I was not aware I had to cut the tape into small plates after stamping (so yes, I am in idiot). That thought actually occurred to me during the middle of the night and I woke up and went DOH.
I did try the pressing and rocking method as well, and got almost no imprint at all. I feel like my nails are too blunt, and as they are so close together in that tiny little space I do not have a file thin enough to try to "sharpen" them a it.
When I struck with a hammer, it felt like the stamp was "jumping" slightly and the results look that way as well, as some of the "rivets" appear double struck, you know what I mean, just a hair off on the second strike.
After I posted this I read through all the posts on coppering I could find in the "How Too" forum. I am thinking I will hobble my way into the basement today and go through my grandmas old sewing kit and see if I can find her old ponce wheel. I know using this will not leave the proper pattern behind, but I beleive it will be better than leaving the plates blank, as the instructions also suggest

Progress has been made. I completed the planking of the inside of the bulwarks, and constructed, attached and painted my cap rails.
 

 

 
Then I attempted to move on to the next step which is to put in my margin plank, then lay the planks on the deck. Well....that is on hold, as I discovered the two laser cut pieces I used for the bow of my cap rail were supposed to be the margin planks at the bow. I attempted to use the cut outs as a template and cut them from some spare wood I had laying around, but I ran into all kinds of problems. If I used wood the proper thickness, then because the curve often goes against the grain, my pieces kept breaking. So I broke down and contacted Model Expo for a replacement sheet for those parts. Now I am waiting, waiting, waiting. lol
 
While I am waiting, I built the jig for stamping my copper according to Chuck's included plans. The jig itself was quite easy to build, the stamps however are proving more difficult. I made them, drilled the tiny little holes into which I dropped nails, but then of course when cutting the nails it was impossible to get them all to the same length. No problem thought I, I just used a metal file to bring them all to the same height.
However, when putting them to actual use, the imprint I am getting on the copper tape, is not very clear at all. I have never done coppering before, so I am not sure if it is my stamps, or my technique. How in the world do you get a nice clear "stamp" onto the copper tape?
The other question I have, is in the real world, this would have been done with plates (which have edges). When using the copper tape, how do you you make it look as if it is individual plates?
Any suggestions on coppering are wlecome!
 

Progress has been made. I completed the planking of the inside of the bulwarks, and constructed, attached and painted my cap rails.
 

 

 
Then I attempted to move on to the next step which is to put in my margin plank, then lay the planks on the deck. Well....that is on hold, as I discovered the two laser cut pieces I used for the bow of my cap rail were supposed to be the margin planks at the bow. I attempted to use the cut outs as a template and cut them from some spare wood I had laying around, but I ran into all kinds of problems. If I used wood the proper thickness, then because the curve often goes against the grain, my pieces kept breaking. So I broke down and contacted Model Expo for a replacement sheet for those parts. Now I am waiting, waiting, waiting. lol
 
While I am waiting, I built the jig for stamping my copper according to Chuck's included plans. The jig itself was quite easy to build, the stamps however are proving more difficult. I made them, drilled the tiny little holes into which I dropped nails, but then of course when cutting the nails it was impossible to get them all to the same length. No problem thought I, I just used a metal file to bring them all to the same height.
However, when putting them to actual use, the imprint I am getting on the copper tape, is not very clear at all. I have never done coppering before, so I am not sure if it is my stamps, or my technique. How in the world do you get a nice clear "stamp" onto the copper tape?
The other question I have, is in the real world, this would have been done with plates (which have edges). When using the copper tape, how do you you make it look as if it is individual plates?
Any suggestions on coppering are wlecome!
 

Progress has been made. I completed the planking of the inside of the bulwarks, and constructed, attached and painted my cap rails.
 

 

 
Then I attempted to move on to the next step which is to put in my margin plank, then lay the planks on the deck. Well....that is on hold, as I discovered the two laser cut pieces I used for the bow of my cap rail were supposed to be the margin planks at the bow. I attempted to use the cut outs as a template and cut them from some spare wood I had laying around, but I ran into all kinds of problems. If I used wood the proper thickness, then because the curve often goes against the grain, my pieces kept breaking. So I broke down and contacted Model Expo for a replacement sheet for those parts. Now I am waiting, waiting, waiting. lol
 
While I am waiting, I built the jig for stamping my copper according to Chuck's included plans. The jig itself was quite easy to build, the stamps however are proving more difficult. I made them, drilled the tiny little holes into which I dropped nails, but then of course when cutting the nails it was impossible to get them all to the same length. No problem thought I, I just used a metal file to bring them all to the same height.
However, when putting them to actual use, the imprint I am getting on the copper tape, is not very clear at all. I have never done coppering before, so I am not sure if it is my stamps, or my technique. How in the world do you get a nice clear "stamp" onto the copper tape?
The other question I have, is in the real world, this would have been done with plates (which have edges). When using the copper tape, how do you you make it look as if it is individual plates?
Any suggestions on coppering are wlecome!
 

Progress has been made. I completed the planking of the inside of the bulwarks, and constructed, attached and painted my cap rails.
 

 

 
Then I attempted to move on to the next step which is to put in my margin plank, then lay the planks on the deck. Well....that is on hold, as I discovered the two laser cut pieces I used for the bow of my cap rail were supposed to be the margin planks at the bow. I attempted to use the cut outs as a template and cut them from some spare wood I had laying around, but I ran into all kinds of problems. If I used wood the proper thickness, then because the curve often goes against the grain, my pieces kept breaking. So I broke down and contacted Model Expo for a replacement sheet for those parts. Now I am waiting, waiting, waiting. lol
 
While I am waiting, I built the jig for stamping my copper according to Chuck's included plans. The jig itself was quite easy to build, the stamps however are proving more difficult. I made them, drilled the tiny little holes into which I dropped nails, but then of course when cutting the nails it was impossible to get them all to the same length. No problem thought I, I just used a metal file to bring them all to the same height.
However, when putting them to actual use, the imprint I am getting on the copper tape, is not very clear at all. I have never done coppering before, so I am not sure if it is my stamps, or my technique. How in the world do you get a nice clear "stamp" onto the copper tape?
The other question I have, is in the real world, this would have been done with plates (which have edges). When using the copper tape, how do you you make it look as if it is individual plates?
Any suggestions on coppering are wlecome!
 

Chris 
Using copper tape is much less expensive than buying individual plates.  They are easy to make and   the way a lot us do it faster.  We layout a strip of 6 to 8 plates at a time.  The adhesive on the copper tape is also far superior to that on the individual plates.  The copper tape is generally used in making colored glass windows.
A ponce wheel (a wheel that looks like a cowboys spur and used in sewing, dressmaking) is needed to simulate the rivets.  I measure out a lentgh of tape equal to 6 or 8 plates, then with the edge of my little 6" ruler score a line indicating the plates. Then lay it flat on a plate of glass or other solid flat surface, lay the ruler next to the edge and run the ponce wheel the length of the strip, then do the same on the other edge. To help with the explanation check out the attached photos. Hope this helps a little.
Good luck
Tom

Wow, Aaron, she really is coming together very nicely. I am so happy to see you have continued. As for length of time, hell my syren sat idle for more than a year while I dealt with my mom's death, kitchen and dry dock remodeling, and just a busy life. But I am back at her. Taking it slowly, when I have time. I might only get a day or two a week ( couple of hours) but that is okay. There is no time limit or rush. 
Al is great for making you use logic, planning, and ingenuity. But that comes in handy for other projects too!

Thank you Sal! I guess I just needed to keep reading ahead and then it would have made sense.
Wayne, angling the edge at the deck is what I was thinking too, and I will have to do that, as the deck is curved as shown above in Sal's picture.

Nope it specifically says camber. I want to lay the first inner bulkhead plank

Stupid questions time. I have moved on and thinned my bulkheads per the instructions. In reading the instructions it tells me to place my first bulwark plank and to maintain the proper camber of the deck while doing so. I had to look up the word camber and I understand it to be an angle. But does anyone have a photo of this inner bulkhead plank which shows the angle to the deck? I can't seem to wrap my head around it correctly and visualize what this should like.

Thank you Sal! I guess I just needed to keep reading ahead and then it would have made sense.
Wayne, angling the edge at the deck is what I was thinking too, and I will have to do that, as the deck is curved as shown above in Sal's picture.

Thank you Sal! I guess I just needed to keep reading ahead and then it would have made sense.
Wayne, angling the edge at the deck is what I was thinking too, and I will have to do that, as the deck is curved as shown above in Sal's picture.

Thank you Sal! I guess I just needed to keep reading ahead and then it would have made sense.
Wayne, angling the edge at the deck is what I was thinking too, and I will have to do that, as the deck is curved as shown above in Sal's picture.

Even with a waterway, there would be a camber to the deck beams (and then to the planks). At this scale, it would be slight but a bevel on the lower edge of bulwark planks would accomodate it (take a little off the inner edge at the bottom to align with deck camber).
 
On the other hand, the sheer (fore and aft) would be more challenging to accomodate.

Nope it specifically says camber. I want to lay the first inner bulkhead plank

I mentioned above about how I cut gunports.   So here's how I do it.  I make no guarantees that it's the best way but it works for me. 
 
First up is a laminated frame blank (I'm using a half frame as the full frames are done).
 
 
I then rubber cement the frame plan to it and carefully cut it out.

 
I fit the frame into position and check all the reference points both against the plans and in situ using the EdT tool. After that, the reference points are etched using the scroll saw and the frame cuts are made with the saw pictured.

 
I soak the joint in 91% isopropyl and wrap in a scarp of paper towel which is also soaked in the isopropyl.

 
The joint is then wrapped in plastic wrap and secured at each end with clothes pins (pegs) so as not let the whole frame separate.

 
After doing something else for about a half an hour, I grab the frame with pliers and piece to be removed with a pair of cutters.

 
A slight pull and the piece comes out, usually cleanly. 

 
At this point, the frame is glued into place, space blocks added between the newly installed frame and the existing frame, everything clamped and the glue allowed to cure.  After curing, I double check all reference points, just in case....
 
I hope this helps someone.
 
 
 

Thanks for looking in and commenting Danny, Sam, Cabrapente, David, and Sjors.
 
Murphy apparently took a few days off (thank heavens) as things went well. 
 
Sam, if I remember, I'll do a quick photo essay when I cut the next gunport which will be later in the week.
 
I got the hull (what there is of it so far) faired out close.  It will still need work but that will come after the cant frames which is the next project.   There's still some low spots and high spots but overall, pretty close.
 
I also reshaped/reworked the rabbet so the planking will set right.   It was tedious and had me sweating blood but worth every second of it.
 
The keel has glued on and sits square and level with everything. 
 

Minor milepost... all the full frames have been cut, installed and spacers added.  The five broken ones have been replaced along with slapping myself upside the head when I realized two of them could have been repaired.   
 
I've started "pre-fairing" in that I'll sand it pretty close to fair except for the frames at the end, get the keel and keelson notches flat and fair, and then tweek the keel's rabbet to account for the changes the garboard strake will have to follow.  I'm also sorting out the inboard side as far as fairing.  The end frames will be faired in once the keel and keelson are installed and the cant frames are done. 
 
And yes, it continues to be a fun ride.