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David Spindle

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  • Website URL
    http://davespindlephotography.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    California
  • Interests
    Photography, Model Ship Building, X-Plane, Fly-fishing, Scroll Sawn Artwork, Jazz Piano

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  1. Hello, Mike What a surprise! I'll be following your build with interest. I agree with you regarding the "Kit Wood" in most kits. I have also been less than impressed with most instruction "manuals". Now that Chuck Passaro has several ships available via Model Expo however, that complaint has been resolved for me. The inferior kit supplied wood for planking I plan to upgrade. I guess I'm just curious why you didn't choose a similar approach? You mentioned you liked the design of their "framing jig". I can't seem to find a photo of it on their website. Are you planning to rig the ship? Anyway, I wish you success. She's a ship with beautiful lines and I'll enjoy following your progress!
  2. Hi, Geoff Chuck is Chuck Passaro, MSW Administrator. You will find him mentioned a lot on the forums. I am new here, so I'm sure others could provide you with a more detailed "bio". His "practicums" are priceless and the main reason I just ordered the Mayflower kit.
  3. Geoff, Here is a link to an article Chuck wrote detailing mast and yard work, and he uses wire to make the foot ropes / stirrups etc. It's a great article.
  4. Thanks, everyone for the great sources, I really appreciate it! And Robnbill, thanks as well for the black thread method...that a good idea. I'd like to see if diluted Titebond would work as well for the foot ropes rather than CA.
  5. I've been reading Chuck's article on Techniques For Modeling Yard Details. He uses 28 gauge black wire for foot ropes. I haven't been able to find anyone who carries this wire. I checked Model Expo. I also checked Amazon who carries something called "Artistic Wire" but the black is glossy which probably wouldn't look to good. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated...thanks!
  6. Whenever I have had a situation where I needed to shim the edge of a bulkhead I've usually grabbed a small piece of the second planking or any scrap that's 1/32 thick. Once it's glued in place, I check it for fairness with a planking strake and sand the shim as needed. You could use anything, it just depends how badly "off" the bulkhead is.
  7. Chuck, Thanks so much! Now I understand. This Mayflower kit is just gorgeous. The fact that you had such an important part to play in it's production was a huge factor in deciding to purchase. By the way..the plans are excellent. Thank you for putting standing and running rigging on sheets of their own. Can't tell you how happy that made me!!!
  8. Thanks, Russ Yes, I read that section. I assumed after reading it that the keel would be a 1/8 strip that would butt up against the bow stem piece at the other end. What I am trying to understand is when to add this keel strip and bow stem since I am not going to do a second planking. I would like to add them before the first planking so I can fit the planks just as they will look in the finished ship. That's my plan anyway, we'll see how it goes!
  9. I received my Mayflower kit yesterday from Model Expo. I spent several hours reading the instructions and I have a question. I paid particular attention to the first planking section since I would like to do a single planking below the wales and not paint. I understand the purpose of the rabbet strip and I assumed there would be a keel strip added to create the rabbet. But although there are references to glueing the garboard strake "to the keel", there is no mention of actually installing the keel. There is a bow stem laser cut piece but it's unclear when that is to be installed also. My guess is that I should just match up a wood strip to the bow stem piece and run it along the bottom for the keel. Is this correct? I hope I am adding this question to the correct forum, if not please feel free to move it! Thanks in advance for your suggestions!
  10. Very nice, clean deck planking! That Prismacolor pencil seems to do a great job of caulking with no smears. I really liked your sanding jig! Beautiful detail and care is obvious in your work. I am thinking of purchasing this model and will be following your progress. Can't wait to see more of your posts! Keep up the great work...you are doing fantastic! Dave
  11. Mike, I think you aren't seeing any taper because you are using the tick strip you used for the longest bulkhead to mark plank widths for all the other bulkheads. Bear in mind, I have never done this myself and am just giving you my impressions based on what I read. I could be completely wrong!
  12. Mike, I am enjoying your build very much. You mentioned how strange it is that little is mentioned regarding edge beveling of strakes. I agree with you. I am struggling with this right now on my Peterboro Canoe. The planks are so tiny, and the only way I can figure out to bevel the edge is to hold the plank in one hand and take swipes at the edge with sandpaper or a file. It seems like such an inaccurate way of doing it though! Would you be willing to share your technique? Also, I think it was in Chuck's planking tutorial (I could be wrong) that I read a different tick strip should be made for each bulkhead. I believe he also mentions subtracting one plank at the bow. Keep up the great work, Mike....you are doing great!
  13. Beautiful work, Jack. You should be very proud! I was intrigued regarding the jig you made to hold the deadeyes. The pictures seem to be missing from the log. Is there any chance you still have the photos and could re-post them? Thanks! Dave
  14. After appx 10 years I finally decided to get back into shipbuilding. I had completed everything but the rigging on the Rattlesnake by Model Shipways 1:64. There is some 1mm line that is supposed to be for the main shrouds but it looks way to big to me. Seems like it should be around half that diameter....or am I wrong? Thanks in advance for your help! Dave
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