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JSGerson
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USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
JSGerson replied to mtbediz's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
As always, beautiful, neat, and clean workmanship. Wonderful stuff. Jon -
I don't know why you had a problem with drilling the hole in the counter, your set up looks solid. You correctly drilled the hole before carving the counter's final shape. Also I noticed you did NOT make the same mistake I made which was not reducing the counter's thickness by 11/32". So you did good. Just be aware that just about everyone has had some sort of problems with the transom so don't be surprised if you join that club. Mr. Hunt's practicum is a great guide for the novice and intermediate modeler, but his words are not gospel. I always check what other's have done in addition to Mr. Hunt's instructions. And, where I deviated from his lead, my build log usually indicates why. My build is a kit bash. I have added the gun deck interior and based my model primarily on the 2015-17 restoration. The kit (and therefore Mr. Hunt's practicum) is based on the 1927 restoration. so there are visual differences, specifically the removal of the top gallant rail and the addition the the open waist as seen today. As a result, I use the practicum as a guide and bounce around the chapters as I need them and supplement them with the plethora of build logs available for reference. This kit is chock full of sub-models, so enjoy and take your time. Jon
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USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
JSGerson replied to mtbediz's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
You call that slow? You're not slow. I'M slow. You started after me and you're almost surpassing me! I've working on this model since 2017, now that's SLOW!😁😅🤣 -
To fabricate the fore mast opening in the spar deck, two structural members were installed between bulkhead Beams C and D offset equally from the centerline by the width of the fore mast dowel. The dowel, sitting in its seat on the gun deck. restrained in its side to side motion, was now perfectly vertical to the beam of the model. Next, a piece of scrap wood’s edge was cut to 3° from the vertical. The scrap wood was now a 3° mast gauge. Placed on the beams, the dowel was pivoted aft back against the gauge and a cross beam glued into place to restrain the dowel’s aft movement. The dowel still has a little forward movement to facilitate removal and then its final placement. Once the foremast is seated again and leaned against the cross beam, it will at the proper rake of 3°. It is to be noted, that the position of the foremast on my model, is not exactly in the same position as shown on the MS plans. The MS plans have the fore mast seated in the C-bulkhead just under the spar deck planking. My fore mast is completely behind the bulkhead C and obviously seated in the gun deck’s extended keel. Why the slight aft position shift, I don’t know. And just for grins and giggles I took a photo with the bowsprit and foremast dowels to get a sense of size of the model. That sucker is biiiigggg!
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I am not a sailor. I have zero experience on a large sailing ship, especially on a vintage one. Obviously, I have boarded the USS Constitution and all the lines were neatly tucked away for the safety of the public. The only working commissioned naval vessel I have been on believe it or not was a Soviet destroyer on a good will tour in the mid 1970's in Boston Harbor. You didn't see too much, but that ship was as neat as a pin because it was on public display. In pictures of vintage sailing fishing vessels I've seen, there were rope lines all over the place. I assume once the boat was returning to port with its load of fish, they made everything "ship shape." The guns on my model are at the ready, in firing positions so I can't imagine the crew taking the effort to make things visually neat like spiraling rope coils, but probably workable neat. That's why the ropes are simply coiled and in position to be used for firing and reloading the guns. This set up is my best guess and you may be totally correct and I'm totally wrong. Jon
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Finally, using the US Navy plan No. 022-06-2011 - Diagonal Rider & Knee Layout Revised 2011 (a minor revision of 27772, 1996) for the elevation view and No, 17636 Spar Deck Planking Removed 1926 for the plan view, I fabricated and added diagonal knees to the bulwarks around the gun ports of the rigged guns. Additionally, the three vertical stanchions around the stove were also fabricated from 0.032” music wire (for rigidity) and installed. Before I can move aft to the next section and while the gun deck is still accessible, I want to create spare deck structure to ensure the foremast will have a 3° rake when it is installed. As I have it presently planned, this portion of the spar deck is expected to be planked.IMG_1479.HEIC
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At this point, As I promised, the gun deck is becoming quite cluttered. I wanted the ship to look more like a working ship than one on display for the “Brass”, so no pretty coiled rope spirals.
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Then the next items to be installed were the anchor line bits and the stove with the stove tray which were previously fabricated. These were installed after dry fitting their final position and installing the spar deck beam that passes over the stove (not shown).
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Moving aft, the gun rigs and recoil lines for three sets of guns after the dummy guns had to be fabricated. The three gun sets of fully rigged guns were glued into position with their recoil ropes secured to the bulwark with a small nail through two eyebolts. I initially planned to trim the nails so that they would be shorter and have a blunt end to more closely resemble the actual pin. This proved to be very difficult to use when attempting to thread them through the eyebolts and looped recoil rope. I just used the plain nail utilizing the pointed end to facilitate the installation to the bulwark. You would need a sharp eye to notice any difference.
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If I remember correctly, Mr. Hunt planks one whole side, then does the other. I alternated back and forth every "band" in order to ensure my strakes mirrored each other. Jon
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Welcome aboard! Looks like you are off to a roaring start. I look forward to your future posts. Jon
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You did an excellent job and you should feel proud of your workmanship. Just so you don't feel too bad, Ken Forman (xKen) is a professional model maker so he sets a pretty high bar to match. He designed the Model Shipways cross section kit of the USS Constitution, the Model Trailways Allerton Steam Fire Pumper, and written books on making brass models. So yeah, you did a fine job. Jon
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I am curious about your choice of color for the spar deck. Why did you use black when the actual ship's deck is natural wood color? BTW, very nice work. Jon
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It looks like you learned a bit from my mistakes. I just didn't understand how all of these three dimensional surfaces merged together and ended up having to use wood filler. Nice job! Jon
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The photos came from post 83. I basically followed the practicum for the basic skeleton of the quarter galleries, then added my own touches. Basically everything went smoothly until I attempted the windows as you will see when you read my log. Jon
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Peter, you also need to look at post 199. Ken had to rip out the quarter gallery due to it being mis positioned. Jon
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USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
JSGerson replied to mtbediz's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
I think you hit the color perfectly. Nice job! Jon -
Of the 100 or so completed models I have images of, only one was unpainted; a scratch built model by Peter Henrick Ness. Sorry, I did not record where I found them.
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Thanks Geoff, a very informative log! For those who do not want to search for the site, here is the link. Jon
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Schooner, unfortunately you did not provide a link to the "Glenn-UK's build log for HMS Sphinx." I tried to locate it, but was unsuccessful. Would you be so kind as to indicate how to locate his build. Thanks, Jon
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I just found this "new" build log by Thrasher on Ships of Scale. He is dusting off a build that he's been working on and off for 10 years and is just starting the Bentinck shrouds. You might want to see what he is going to do. Jon
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Just remember, it's a model, not a miniature replicate. Do what you think works best for the look you want. Good luck and have fun! Jon
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Here are some photos that may (or not) help you.
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DAR - Because the hull is going to be painted, I think I have a simple solution. On the subsequent strakes, increase the width a bit of a couple of planks in that area until the 'waviness" disappears. Add a little wood filler if needed and the smooth it out so the wood strakes blend and you can't see any creases. The paint will cover any evidence of the unevenness and it will disappear. Hope this helps. Jon
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Wood filler was my best friend too!😁
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