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JSGerson
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USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
JSGerson replied to mtbediz's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Those are some exquisitely clean cut notches on those trestle tree components. As always, a pleasure to see your workmanship. Jon -
Very handsome model! Jon
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For me, the enjoyment is in the journey and this model has a multitudes of side trips, some seen by others, others not so much. Once the project is finished and on display, the fun, for the most part ends. My journey so far. is 8 years and still running😁! Jon
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I too built the gun deck with a bunch of details. I made them somewhat visible by removing some of the main hatchways, spar deck planking, and beam supports. However, even with openings, a lot of the gun deck details are still obscured. Only me and the man upstairs know they are there. The image below shows the present state of my model. Jon
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USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
JSGerson replied to mtbediz's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
It's good enough for me too. I LIKE it! Jon -
It's looking grand!!! Jon
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A very neat, clean, and viable solution. Well done. Jon
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Well, it looks like you jumped into the deep end of pool!!! Enjoy!! Jon
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USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
JSGerson replied to mtbediz's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
If you look closely, drilling holes is the way to go. They don't look constructed like the method the channels used. Jon -
USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
JSGerson replied to mtbediz's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
I can't speak for Mustafa's model but technically, the deadeyes on the actual ship are not attached to the tops at all; but pass through openings in the tops and attached to the Bentnik Shrouds below. Jon
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I have seen it, but think it may just be too big at the scale we are working at. I can barely use fine needle tweezers, so I just tie a simple knot with the seizing line, wrap 2 or 3 times and tie another simple knot. Then I add a fine drop of CA glue to finish. For me, that tool makes sense for larger scales. Jon
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Frank. you might be able to make the hook style I used using a thinner gauge for your 1:96 scale, but I think you would also lose strength with such a fine wire. And I not even talking about line seizing. I would simplify the process. Getting blocks smaller than 3/32" is going to be tough and adding a hook, tougher. When I made my 1:64 scale Rattlesnake, I wasn't as cognizant of the block rigging details, so I drilled a fine hole into the block and inserted/glued a straight shaft hook into the hole and skipped tieing the hook to the block. Wrapping the rope line around the block was made easier, neater, and no layman was wiser. Jon
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Would you believe there are 100 hooks in this container? Once I got into the rhythm of bending the 1/32” eyebolts, I could do about 2, to 3 per minute, but it was tedious and working using the pliers, wire cutter, with a magnifier headset was tiresome. Now comes the really tiresome part, making 5 identical sets of tackle per each of the 20 carronades and 2 long guns. Oh joy.
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Gregg, now you are just being nice. I would say, it's just barely passing. snipping the seizing line close to to the rope line so it's not hanging, is an art I must master. I could get away with these flaws on the gun deck because you just can't see them well, but on the spar deck, they are out in the open. Jon
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USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
JSGerson replied to mtbediz's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
You don't disappoint, they look gorgeous! Jon -
I did make a prototype recoil tackle to determine how much line I would need for that, approx. 3”. Looking at the miniature rope provided by the kit, the smallest diameter line provided were parts Nos. WP2589 (black) & WP2587 (tan) 3/0, 0.005” (0.13 mm) dia. two strand nylon. They did not look rope. They did look good for seizing line, so that is what I tried. My first attempt was a tad crude, but it won’t be noticed unless you have fantastic eyesight. I should improve as I make more.
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Rigging the Spar Deck Carronades There are three components to gun tackle: the rope, the hooks, and the blocks. I will initially be using .008” (.20 mm) Syren Ship Model Co, miniature tan rope and 3/32” (2.4 mm) blocks (single & double). The hooks I must make myself from 1/32” (0.8 mm) eyebolts. As far as I know, nobody makes 1/32” hooks with a quarter twist so that the eye is turned 90° from the hook. There are 20 carronades each requiring a minimum of 4 hooks. Then there are 5 hooks each for the two 24 pounders. That’s 90 hooks minimum assuming I don’t lose any during the fabrication process. I’ll make about 100 of these for the time being. So that alone is going to take a while to fabricate.
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The Constitution's transom has been the bane of many a builder, including Robert Hunt and myself among them. I really hope this works well for you. So far, so good. Jon
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As I mentioned before, the Hull model does not show any stanchions, or rope handrails. I looked at all of the designated 1812 version and earlier, models that I had photos of (approx 25). I eliminated those models with closed hatches, those with no close-up views, and those models still incomplete in their fabrication, which left a total of 6 models to look at. About half of them had simple rope rails around the hatches and along the ladders. The stanchions were always dark (color or B&W images) but the rope was both light or dark in color. All of this doesn't mean anything because the level of detail provided was the builder's choice. My personal assumption, which has no factual or historic basis, is that there was at least a rope barrier around the hatchways when they were open and probably on the ladders. If they existed, I would imagine that their specific design varied over time like everything else on the ship. Jon
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The Hull model does not show any railings. That does not mean there wasn't anything there. If memory serves me correctly, I believe the brass railings were installed when the Constitution was made into a training and receiving ship around 1882, but don't quote me on that. The earliest pictures I have are from the 1890s. Jon
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Thanks for the kudos guys! I used to use Blacken-It with good results, but as far as I know it's not available anymore. So, I switched to JAX Black, Brass, Bronze, & Copper Blackener. Typically, I soak the metal item in some mild acid for a few minutes to remove any oils from the metal, rinse in water, and then soak in the blacken solution (1/2 water & 1/2 blackener) for about 5 - 10 minutes while keeping an eye on it. But for some reason, the black coating flaked off this time. Jon
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Spar Deck Long Guns Finally, the last armament to be fabricated for the spar deck were the two 24 pounder long guns. These were made almost identical to the guns for the gun deck. I say “almost” because this time I used the laser cut carriage sides provided by the kit, If you may remember, I had to scratch make my own sides for the gun deck guns because for some reason, the gun ports were a bit too high relative to the gun deck planking and I had to compensate with a slightly taller gun carriage. Which by the way, was closer to the US Navy plans version. I made all the other pieces as before and assembled them using the jig I used before. However, the jig had to be adjusted a bit because my scratch made sides were a bit different thickness than the laser cut ones. Also, this time, the blackening didn’t seem to stick as well as last time, so I will have to use some touch black paint where the shiny brass shows through. Still to be done. I will glue down the quoin when the guns are aligned properly and glued into their final positions. Till then, rigging the guns is next.
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USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
JSGerson replied to mtbediz's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Actually, the 1927 plans I sent you earlier, shows seven braces in the main top. Why it was removed as shown in recent photo is a mystery to me. If you won't tell anybody that it changed, I won't either😁 Jon -
USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
JSGerson replied to mtbediz's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
They look beautiful!....However, I noticed a discrepancy between yours and the the actual tops. Two of your tops (Fore & Mizzen) match the real ones. However, the main top does not have the radial brace in front of the oval hole. Below are two images. The single top image is the foremast top. The other image shows the main and mizzen tops. You can see clearly, the main top only has six radial braces not seven. I hope that doesn't mess you up too much. Jon
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For the most part, the chainplates are aligned and angled as determined by their attached stays. This means they are not necessarily perpendicular to the chanels. Each angled chainplate has a slightly different angle from its neighbor. IMHO, "fudging" the slots to allow angling of the deadeyes should not be noticeable provided any slot widening is done on the bottom side of the channel where it can't be seen. Unless you are trying to be super realistic, which you are not, the slight inconsistencies created by the model maker with the real world are acceptable in a model. Jon
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