JSGerson

Here is what it looks like on the Rattlesnake (prior to permanently lashing it down)

The final ship’s boat build is shown

The Rudder
 
The kit provided a precut basswood rudder which I used. However, you remember I broke the top of rudder stem where it protruded above the transom.  The two images below show the before and after the break

A strip of wood, which I think is called a washboard, was added to each side of bow as well another eyebolt and ring to the bow deck. Also notice that the oarlocks were moved after I was informed that I had inadvertently installed them on the wrong side of the thwarts. As originally installed, the rowers would have to face forward and row the boat backwards.

The oarlocks were made of bamboo pieces just like one would make treenails, about a quarter the width of the soon to be made oars (about 1/32”) and placed into a pre-drilled kit supplied basswood planking strip. Initially the holes were drilled and the oarlock inserted. Their heights were adjusted and then the whole assembly was stained with Early American. The stain temporarily “glued” the bamboo into position. After the stain dried, the excess was cut off from the bottom and sanded smooth. The oarlock assemblies were then cut off and glued into position onto the rail cap locking everything – the rail cap, oarlock plate, and the bamboo with a single dab of CA glue.

1/16” square strip stock was then glued to both sides of the keel between the rib notches, flush with the top of the keel. The notches are where the ribs are to be installed later. Because the strips must also curve up the bow, they had to be pre-curved.

Assembling the Keel
 
The single piece laser cut keel is combined with the stem and the stern post. The bow bulkhead and the transom were glued to keel. 

A strip of wood, which I think is called a washboard, was added to each side of bow as well another eyebolt and ring to the bow deck. Also notice that the oarlocks were moved after I was informed that I had inadvertently installed them on the wrong side of the thwarts. As originally installed, the rowers would have to face forward and row the boat backwards.

A strip of wood, which I think is called a washboard, was added to each side of bow as well another eyebolt and ring to the bow deck. Also notice that the oarlocks were moved after I was informed that I had inadvertently installed them on the wrong side of the thwarts. As originally installed, the rowers would have to face forward and row the boat backwards.

The planking installed. The tree nails are next.
 

Mast Wedges
At this point it was time to construct the main deck mast wedge under the foredeck like was done for the main deck under the quarterdeck. But an unforeseen complication arose; per the instructions of the practicum.
 
In Chapter, 8, section 8.1.3, Page 24, Mr. Hunt describes the creation of the mizzen mast wedge for the parquet floor on the Main deck. The stock material was 1/16" x 1/4" swiss pear which was based on the 3/16" dia of the mast:+ 1/16" + 1/16" (thickness of ring on either side of mast) = ~1/4".
 
The wood package contained 1/16" x 1/4" swiss pear. So far so good.
 
In section 8.2.4, Page 108, the practicum addressed the foremast wedge under the forecastle. It stated: "And like the mizzen mast, there is a small mast wedge made of swiss pear on the main deck...The mast wedge was made the same way I described earlier."
 
The foremast is 1/4" in diameter. To make the wedge I would need a stock piece of 1/16" swiss pear of at least 3/8" square: 1/4" + 1/16" + 1/16" = 3/8".
 
There are a total of 3 wedges of this size, two on the main deck and one the forecastle.
 
The wood package had nothing in swiss pear of this width in any thickness. At this point my only alternative was to create them in boxwood and then stain them as best I could.
 
I immediately contacted Jeff Hayes of HobbyMills and started the email with “You wouldn't of seen this one coming.” Mr. Hayes was again very gracious:
 
“I guess that Bob just used some pear that he had lying around and forgot to add it to his list. If you need a piece of 1/16 sheet stock, just let me know.  As an alternative, how about gluing two layers of the 3/64 x 5/8 together to make them?”
 
Looking at my supply of 3/64 x 5/8” swiss pear, I realized that that didn’t have too much left and didn’t know if I would need it later so I reluctantly went with his first option. Letting Jeff know I felt guilty about “nickel and dimeing” him he asked and I agreed immediately to at least pay for the postage. Within a couple of days I received a piece 1/16” swiss pear 1 1/8” x 24”, more than sufficient to create the wedges and anything else I might need. Thanks Jeff.
 
Well if I was going to make one wedge, I might as well make all of the remaining wedges. Here you can see the progression in mast wedge construction.
 

To ensure proper fit, dry fitting with the dowel was done numerous times.

I then went and installed the catheads

For all intents and purposes, the Quarterdeck is complete...at least for now.

Then the whole floor was simply dropped in place and glued down.
 
 

The seat pieces were cut and trimmed to fit and glued into place. The “hinges” are nothing more than pieces of black paper that were added when I Poly-wiped the wood. The remainder of the thwarts (seats) were supported by the risers (support strips). The forward thwart had a half round notch cut out for an optional mast.

The seat pieces were cut and trimmed to fit and glued into place. The “hinges” are nothing more than pieces of black paper that were added when I Poly-wiped the wood. The remainder of the thwarts (seats) were supported by the risers (support strips). The forward thwart had a half round notch cut out for an optional mast.

It seemed to me that all ship’s boats are basically the same at this stage of the build. Looking at all of my 46 Rattlesnake models images that I have collected from the internet, I selected the ones with clear/detailed images of the ship’s boat. Not one of them duplicated any other’s boat. Everyone was different. That meant I had free rein as to what mine was going to look like. Taking elements from the kit itself, the Practicum, other boats on or off the Rattlesnake, and reference books, I came up with my version.
 
Like most boats, I created a backseat with two side seats. Some of the models I had seen had a lid over the back seat so I thought that would be neat to have. The lid was simply etched into the wood. Additionally I added a mast block (my own design since I didn’t have much to go on) and some brass rings fore and aft colored black with a Sharpie pen.

At this point I decided that the exterior still needed something, so I added a piece of unstained 1/32” x 1/32” basswood right up against the sheer plank. It did two things. First it added a little snap to the boat. I had seen other small boats with similar structures. Second, it covered up small gaps between the planking and the sheer plank. The basswood piece was cut from the 1/32” x 3/32” basswood planking stock that came with the kit. I actually made two strips from one plank!  Boy, I love that Byrne’s saw!

Basswood planking stock was added as the interior floor boards and for a change, there were no hassles. I left this basswood as well as the other basswood in the interior unstained to provide a contrast between the interior and the exterior of the boat.
 

After cleaning the edges and test fitting the pieces, looking for gaps, etc. the edges were darkened with artist charcoal to simulate tar chalking. The pieces were then glued together using another uncut copy of the stem as a template. Now the stem looks like what the shipwright would have seen when they completed the stem on the actual ship.
 
 
As Mr. Hunt points out, if I were to place my new stem on top the kit’s plan they don’t exactly match. Not only that, the kit’s figurehead won’t fit either but that’s OK because I jumped in with both feet on this build which means I will be carving a new figurehead from scratch when the time comes.

The seat pieces were cut and trimmed to fit and glued into place. The “hinges” are nothing more than pieces of black paper that were added when I Poly-wiped the wood. The remainder of the thwarts (seats) were supported by the risers (support strips). The forward thwart had a half round notch cut out for an optional mast.

It seemed to me that all ship’s boats are basically the same at this stage of the build. Looking at all of my 46 Rattlesnake models images that I have collected from the internet, I selected the ones with clear/detailed images of the ship’s boat. Not one of them duplicated any other’s boat. Everyone was different. That meant I had free rein as to what mine was going to look like. Taking elements from the kit itself, the Practicum, other boats on or off the Rattlesnake, and reference books, I came up with my version.
 
Like most boats, I created a backseat with two side seats. Some of the models I had seen had a lid over the back seat so I thought that would be neat to have. The lid was simply etched into the wood. Additionally I added a mast block (my own design since I didn’t have much to go on) and some brass rings fore and aft colored black with a Sharpie pen.

At this point I decided that the exterior still needed something, so I added a piece of unstained 1/32” x 1/32” basswood right up against the sheer plank. It did two things. First it added a little snap to the boat. I had seen other small boats with similar structures. Second, it covered up small gaps between the planking and the sheer plank. The basswood piece was cut from the 1/32” x 3/32” basswood planking stock that came with the kit. I actually made two strips from one plank!  Boy, I love that Byrne’s saw!

Basswood planking stock was added as the interior floor boards and for a change, there were no hassles. I left this basswood as well as the other basswood in the interior unstained to provide a contrast between the interior and the exterior of the boat.