palmerit

Finished the deck for the most part. Just a few last pieces to add. Then it’s on to the masts, yards, and rigging - and sails.

I'd recommend a Vanguard model 100%. Great materials, great instructions, great design, great finished product. I did the Model Shipways three model (Shipwright Series) kits and they're a great experience. Building something like the Vanguard Sherbourne will be completely different. For example, the Dory, Pram, and Smack do not have the kind of strip planking that larger ships have - that's a whole other skill. The rigging on the Sherbourne is "novice" but way more complex than the Pram or Smack (Dory has no rigging). I've also built the Vanguard Ranger and am currently building the Vanguard Zulu, both of which are also "novice" kits. Still challenging. I haven't built an Occre (have one in my stash) or AL. I think Vanguard's engineering (design) is much better. I saw a YouTube video of someone building an Occre kit and the frame rattled like castanets. The frame on a Vanguard hull is like a tank. The Vanguard instructions are also the best. Not just arguably. They're the best. Another great thing about Vanguard kits is that you have a great YouTube build series by Jason on Modelkit Stuff. He did the Sherbourne. He's currently doing another "novice" Vangard kits that's the somewhat smaller little sister to the Ranger and Zulu (all "fishing" boats - but larger boats, almost ships, compared to the Model Shipwright small boats you built). I originally bought - in my stash - the Vanguard Duchess of Kingston to be my second kit (my first was the Sherbourne but built the Model Shipwright boats and the NRG half hull in parallel). I now realize while I could have built it (after the Sherbourne and the Model Shipwright boats) it was a far better decision to build some additional novice Vanguard models. After the Zulu, I have the Erycina in my stash (an "amateur" kit). From what I've seen of a current build of the Erycina, it's a more challenging hull from the novice kits. I'm probably going to do the Grecian and maybe the Adder (also "amateur" kits). With each of these, I've tried to hone some skills. Like on the Zulu, I worked harder to get the planking right. So I've been able to leave the top part of the planking bare (shellaced and varnished) wood rather than painting it. I'm also going to be using Syren rope and blocks rather than the kit-supplied ones (which are very good in Vanguard kits - much better than anything in a Model Expo kit - just not as high end as the Syren products). I have the Model Shipworld Syren in my stash (my sons bought it for me). It was designed by Chuck Passaro and has great instructions - I'll probably replace a ton of the wood and all of the rope and blocks. I'm not ready for that kit because it requires a ton of scratch building. I think the Rattlesnake is the same. I like working on kits right now that might take months to build so I can try things and hone my skills and some of my models have turned out better than others. I think something like the Rattlesnake or Syren or other large models (Constitution or Victory) are multi-year endeavors that I'm going to wait to tackle until maybe retirement.

It took a few models before I didn't regularly put my hand or my head through some rigging. Especially problematic when wearing magnifiers on your eyes since they completely screw up your depth and peripheral vision. Just know that if you ruin some rigging you won't be alone there either.

Added the metal work to the rudder and started to add the deck fittings. To add the rudder hinge (which for aesthetics I decided to keep brass blacked rather that paint over with hull color) I used a Tamiya clear acrylic paint as the “glue” and then added a couple of layers of airbrushed matt varnish on top. I learned that trick on a Finescale Modeler YouTube channel. The clear paint works like glue with flat pieces and gives you a lot more time to carefully position a piece and less mess than using CA.

I think it depends on the model. Vanguard Models have two layers of planking and two layers of the keel. The first keel is added, then the first layer of planking, then the second layer of the keel. The second layer of the keel means that you don’t need to chisel a rabbet. Then the second layer of planking.

This is how I did mine (the middle option). From what I recall, there’s a fair amount of sanding (faring) to get the planks to lay flush. I don’t remember if there are later instruction steps that might help make it clearer.

I'm no expert by any stretch. The quality of the wood certainly makes a big differences - basswood (from Model Shipways / Midwest) kits does not produce the same finish as higher quality pear (from Vanguard kits). In terms of planking and decking, it's the quality of the wood work that seems to determine the quality of the final product - if you're painting, it doesn't much matter how much wood filler you use, but that won't cut it if you're planning to keep the wood unpainted. I've recently discovered making my own shellac from flakes and alcohol, which ends up with a much better product than using pre-made canned shellac. On a current model I used shellac on the bare wood at the top of the hull, with the bottom painted, and after it was all done and dried I applied a couple layers of a Vallejo matte varnish on top. I'm sure others have more sophisticated approaches and answers.

I think I broke pieces at the stern three times on my Sherbourne. Good experience in the kinds of repairs possible with a wooden model ship. Good reminder too that these little models are fragile.

Even though this is only the first planking, the better you get this one, the better the surface will be for the second planking. And careful work on the first planking is good practice for the second planking. Note that working with the lime wood (first planking) is a bit different from working with peat wood (second planking).

I buy compressed air cans in 6 packs - take them outside and blow everything clean. Of course that only works with sanded hulls with no rigging or delicate pieces.

Interesting experiment. I'm going to follow along to see the progress. There's certainly no shame - and no one will shame you here - in setting the Indy aside should the experiment prove overly challenging (i.e., not fun). I know there's someone here who started on the Sphinx - just a step below the Indy - and at some point in their build they decided to take a step back and do the Vanguard Sherbourne, on the other end of the Vanguard skill continuum (still a challenging model, even with the excellent instructions and materials and design). For myself, I picked the Vanguard Sherbourne as my first model and when I got to the rigging stage felt a bit overwhelmed so I did the Model Shipways Shipwright models (Dory, Pram, Smack), which has no rigging on the Dory, some very simple rigging on the Pram, and only a bit more complicated on the Smack, and I felt much better prepared to take on the rigging on the Sherbourne, which is orders of magnitude simpler than the Indy; it also helped that Modelkit Stuff (Jason) had gone past me on his Sherbourne build on Youtube that I could learn from. Best of luck in the experiment!

After anything that needs to be glued I’d say.

After sanding the hull, I decided to paint the bottom and leave the top unpainted and shellaced. Here I have also added the rub rails and I’ve worked on some pieces that will be added to the deck. (I used a clear shellac, which nicely darkens the pear just bit.)

Great job! I was recently at a great display of model ships (all of them historic models) in Toronto and a large proportion of them did not include masts or rigging - saw the same at a display in Scotland last summer.

While building my Sherbourne, I broke the stern end a couple times being clumsy. Was good experience on gluing broken pieces back together and being more careful.

Great! Thanks for the pointer. I actually have all the volumes thankfully. Haven't been able to read them all.

The one from here (thanks @JacquesCousteau) simulates internal stropping with wire around the block that is painted using wood filler to hide the wire and painting with Vallejo Old Wood (so you can't see that the wire is actually on the outside rather than the inside of the block). I suppose that's something I could try.

For those - like me - who don't know the differences between blocks, here's another useful discussion (with drawings):

Syren has internally-stropped blocks, but their smallest is 6mm. The blocks on this model are closer to 5mm. Though who knows how close these plastic bits are to what was actually used on this boat. They're the same plastic blocks that were included in the Midwest Crabbing Skiff I built. I wouldn't be surprised if these are just the generic blocks they include in lots of Midwest kits. My options are (1) use the plastic blocks that come with the kit that look terrible (and likely aren't really period appropriate either), (2) use nice Syren blocks that aren't period appropriate but look nice, and look like blocks, (3) use Syren internally-stropped blocks that are too big by a mm, (4) try to make my own, (5) check with Bluejacket. I can't get myself to do (1). And (4) is beyond me, at least for this model at this time. It's probably going to be (2) but I might order a set of the Syren internally-stropped blocks just to see how they look and even if I don't use them here I might use them in a future model and I might order some from Bluejacket after I take a look at what they have online.

Are there alternative sources?

I was planning to place a Syren order for more blocks and rope and knew I wanted to replace both on this kit. I hadn’t yet opened the plastic ziplock with these pieces and found this for the blocks. Sad.

As @ccoyle said, just glue in place and maybe let it cure overnight before adding the other bracing pieces going the other direction. There is so much engineered redundancy in Vanguard models that it should all be fine. You could add some additional bracing pieces (after finishing the skeleton) between the broken piece and the adjacent pieces if you want to be completely sure. The Vanguard pieces often need a bit of filing so that they don't fit so snuggly that they snap when you push them into position. Snug is what you want, but too snug can be too much. This is way better than some models that do the opposite: I saw a recent YouTube video of someone who focuses entirely on Occre models and its skeleton with bulkheads inserted shook like a set of castanets - if you turned it upside down, they'd all fall out.

I don't know, there's so much variability in uses, needs, wood types, and even within the same wood type that I can't imagine it would be possible to do those kind of comparisons. And I imagine companies that produce these kinds of niche products operate on small margins. And can you imagine if they published some specs and someone complained or sued. I can tell you that it's not going to slice a 2x4 😉

I did the same thing and was able to repair it.

Very cool. (Is there any update on whether your supplier in Europe will be able to send parts so you can start selling the Syren rope walk again?)