palmerit

I was also looking at the Model Shipways' Bluenose - it's very different from the Sherbourne or any of the other Vanguard Models. But following some build logs and watching some YouTube videos it looks like it's single plank (unless I'm missing something) and the instructions can be confusing and some of the parts are wrong and need to be handcrafted.

So Duchess of Kingston wouldn't be completely out of my league then (just bigger and more complex)? I've read a number of build logs on it (and watched some YouTube videos on a build from the guy from the Midwest Model Shop). It's a beautiful ship and a lot different from the Sherbourne.

I'm currently building the Vanguard Sherbourne and it's been a great experience. Since I find that there are often times when I'm waiting for glue or paint to dry (like I am now), I'm thinking that I might start another model in parallel. Especially during football season, I'm finding it enjoyable to work on models while watching the games on Sundays. I love my Vanguard Model. And I'm certainly going to buy another one (and another after that) when my Sherbourne is done. The Harpy looks cool. That might be a stretch, so maybe that can be a third or fourth model, but I really like what I've seen on the prototype build. I'm certainly considering another Vanguard Model for my second (parallel) build. Some of the non-armed working boats with sails from Vanguard seem quite different from the Sherbourne, at least in looks. If anyone has recommendations, please share. I'm also considering a different model manufacturer for my second (parallel) model that might require me to exercise some other model muscles and build on what I've been learning with the Sherbourne. I've seen Occre, Caldercraft, Model Shipways, the Amati models that Chris Watton designed as ones that recommended. Quality (over cost) - in material, in instructions - is way more important to me (which is why I picked a Vanguard model as my first one). I don't want to deal with wood that splits or is the wrong dimensions. Certainly having descent instructions is a must for a second build I think, even if supplementing with checking out the logs of others. Recommendations on a good "second ship" that would be a small step past the Sherbourne, but not overwhelming for someone who is still a beginner? I've seen the index to builds (and I'll pick one where I can find lots of help), but I'd like pointers to a few I should check out for my second model. I did see these recommended on a pinned post from six years ago. So I'll check these out. But wanted to see what else that's newer might be recommended. For example, they don't list Occre because I think that's a new company. No experience Any Artesania Latina Weekend Kit (Viking longboat etc) Artesania Latina's Mare Nostrum, Bremen, Jolie Brise Models with preformed hulls made from compressed fibre (again, AL produce a variety of these) Midwest Products Level 1 or 2 (e.g. skiff, Chesapeake Bay flattie) (these kits are now made and sold through Model Expo) Beginner kits from BlueJacket Shipcrafters (e.g. Optimist dinghy, Yankee Hero) Model Shipways' Willie Bennett, Armed Longboat, Shipwright Series (dory, pram, lobster smack) Vanguard Models working boats (e.g., Saucy Jack, Erycina) Some experience, or experience of other model disciplines Mantua's Model kits of President, Golden Star Artesania Latina's San Francisco(II), Santa Maria, Independence, Harvey, HMS Supply, Mayflower, Scottish Maid, Virginia, Swift Amati's Santa Maria, Elizabethan Galleon, Lady Nelson, Chinese Junk Caldercraft's HM Schooner Ballahoo, HM Cutter Sherbourne, HM Brig Supply Model Shipways' Bluenose Corel's Shenadoah, Chesapeake Sloop, Scotland Baltic Ketch, Leida Mamoli's Constitution Cross Section Vanguard Models' Sherbourne Trial, Alert I haven't seen a more recent cataloging of recommended beginner/novice models like this, but maybe I've used the wrong search terms. Any recommendations for a good second model, and for another model manufacturer to take a look at or to stay away from? Or what I should look for (or look out for) when picking a second model. After seeing how challenging even a novice model is (with great materials and fantastic instructions) I certainly don't want to get over my head. But I'd like to take a step and expand my skills too.

Looking like I need to do another coat of white on the hull because it got scuffed in several places just from handling. I’m guessing l should have (and now will, after repainting) sprayed on a couple coats of matte varnish. My understanding is that that should protect the paint a bit?

Fingers crossed I did a descent enough job masking off the rest of the ship. I’m glad I splurged on an airbrush. I don’t know if the fine etch marking on the wood would show as cleanly if I had used a brush.

Making more progress. Dealing with small pieces of PE is definitely a learning experience. Thankfully I didn’t lose any. I had to leave off the XIII on the depth markings (not enough width). I’m glad for the good advice not to glue the bulkhead to the bulkhead ears that are snipped off.

Being a novice model, the Sherbourne is pretty basic (but still complicated for me) when it comes to rigging. One thing I'd like to maybe add is the thick rope that goes from the hull around the small cannons (that would keep the cannon from flying across the hull when fired) - sorry, I have no idea what the actual name of that rope is. Two questions: - Where would I buy the proper scale rope for this (ideally from a supplier in the US)? - I'm guessing I should just check out other Vanguard models that have this kind of simple cannon rigging to see what to do? I've attached an image that's a screen shot from the Sherbourne instructions (showing the lack or rope around the cannons). I'm not yet anywhere near that point in the build. But if I need to order some rope, I'd want to do it well before I get to that step.

Been a while since I last posted. I’ve been busy with work. And I’ve been learning how to use my new airbrush and properly thin airbrush paint. And not being a woodworker, learning how to sand and when and how to interleave painting and sanding. I understand even more clearly how even when painting a hull how important it is to have a good first and second planking. I didn’t do a great job on either so I had to do a lot of repetitions of wood filler followed by sanding. Next time I’m definitely going to follow closely the advice to treat each plank as its own project. I also now appreciate what I learned from videos on plastic modeling I’ve followed recently (I’m doing a plastic Tamiya tank model between steps on my wood model): That a primer (or first) coat of paint can more clearly reveal blemishes that need to be filled and/or sanded. I also got a bit ahead of myself and added the photoetch straps on the hull by the rudder too soon. After I added them, in better light I realized I had more filling and sanding to do. Well, in the process of sanding, I lost four of the small straps after hitting them and they flew across the room. I had to cut some small pieces out from the scrap photoetch sheet to size and drill some holes. That was a learning experience - both to take a pause and to fix mistakes. The end result isn’t perfect by far but much better than where I started.

Sorry for jumping on an old thread. 1. Is Minwax Wipe-On Poly (Warm Satin) a good choice? 2. Would I use a rap, a brush, or a (small) foam brush? Or some combination, like foam brush on, then wipe with a rag?

I’m planning to paint the inside “walls” (can’t remember what they’re called) red. The upper part of the outside of hull is bare wood. Should I use a wood stain? If so, what kind? Brand and color?

I made progress painting. It took some time to learn how to use an airbrush. (An airbrush isn’t needed, but I want to do some other kinds of modeling.) I also had to learn how to use photoetch. My sprue (side) cutters were too thick to cut off the parts. I tried using my scalpel, which worked ok. But I think I’m going to try to find a pair of cutters designed for cutting pe. Then I realized I couldn’t cut pe on my cutting mat (when using my scalpel) because it’s too soft (and bent the piece a bit). So I tried instead using a piece of ceramic tile, which worked better. Fearing a tiny piece of pe might fly across the room, with some googling I found the trick of putting some masking tape behind the part on the photoetch sheet (after first using my reverse action tweezers to hold the piece). Using pe made me also realize why model sites sell really pointy tweezers. Mine were really too blunt for working with tiny tiny pe pieces. I’ll be buying a sharp pair of tweezers soon. Not sure what’s the best way to sand pe if (and when) I leave a sharp bit of the “sprue” on the part. Maybe a file works best? To put the superglue down, I ended up settling on using my scalpel blade to put down tiny amounts of glue down where the pe needs to go.

I filled and sanded (and sanded and sanded), moving from sand paper and emory boards to a very fine sanding sponge. Certainly the smoothest I’ve ever sanded something. Can easily see places where I had to use more filler. I also had to do some work on the stern. First, the stern piece that the rudder attaches to would not fit between the two upper stern pieces I had attached earlier and I had to file the gap a bit. Then that same stern piece did not lie flush with the hull and needed some filler to fill the gap. I finally realized (after a bunch of wood filler applications) that I could apply a bit of wood filler (watered down a tiny bit) into a gap and then wipes the area with a damp cloth (leaving the filler only in the gap). Masking and painting (and filling and sanding and painting) is next.

I suppose I wouldn’t have needed to do this if I had tapered a bit more precisely. Was fun trying to shape the wood.

I didn’t quite leave enough room for all the planks to make it to the bow. Maybe next model I’ll do more measurements and use my calipers. Experimenting with how to insert planks based on what I’ve read.

Working on the second planking. Using superglue (on top of being a novice at planking) is definitely a learning experience. Started to get the hang of it (at least a little bit) part of the way down the hull. Glad the hull will be painted on the model.

Getting ready to start the second planking. Letting the shaped bulwark dry. It’s clamped down without glueing it in place. Instructions recommend putting the first plank on and then removing the bulwark until after second planking and painting the hull. And I was able to repair the back that I had damaged.

What’s the best way to apply CA? Tooth pick? Or will the applicator on the Gorilla Micro Precise Gel work just as well (or better). Is that a good CA to use? I’ve been applying PVA with small brush, which obviously won’t work for CA.

First layer done (still need to fix the back). Shape looks ok. Pretty symmetric. Not perfect. Will be fixing the back, adding finish wood for keel, prow, and stern (covered with Tamiya tape), then I’ll start the 2nd planking. Not sure if I should use superglue or titebond for 2nd planking. Instruction say superglue (cyano gel) but lots here suggest not. I’ll probably give superglue a try, making sure everything is shaped well, and going slow.

Probably more wood filler than I might have needed if my planking went a bit better. Lots of sanding tomorrow. Most of it I watered down. I few places I used “full strength” in the place with some stair stepped planking. We’ll see how it goes.

Oops. Sadly, while removing a stubborn nail from the hull, my hand slipped and I smashed the back a bit. I have some glueing to do. Thankfully, it’s going to be painted. Every step is a learning experience.

Well, I survived my first planking. I watched a bunch of videos and read a bunch of posts but I learned the most by just doing it I think. My first ones were poor and thankfully this is just a base. I think I got a bit better. Glad this is an “easy” hull. I’ll have a lot of filling and sanding to do. I’m hoping I’ll be able to apply what I learned to the thinner second planking.

I hadn’t noticed that the bow bulwark was bent in a bit, I think because there’s not a bulwark ear at the front and I wasn’t paying attention. Nothing I can do about it. Something I’ll try to remember for the next model.

I was able to fix the stern area (showing photos before and after sanding down), getting everything lined up and flush, with a bunch of careful sanding and a tiny bit of wood filler carefully applied (a couple of times, over a couple of days, sanding between). I might do one more wood filler application.

Question: Before painting wood (whether small pieces or parts of the hull or masts), do you use a primer or sanding seal (to limit the wood fibers from rising up)?

Recommendations on a descent quality air brush for modeling? Is the polyurethane also sprayed on (or does "paint a light layer" mean use a paintbrush)? I had also seen some posts where someone recommended that the wood be treated before painting. (Complete novice here.) What do you do with the exposed wood (say on the hull or the deck or other parts that aren't painted)? Do you use a light stain (wouldn't a stain be rubbed on, not sprayed)? Do you use polyurethane on them? (Again, sorry, complete novice.)