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Rudolf
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Rudolf reacted to bcochran in Robert E Lee by bcochran - FINISHED - Pyro - 1/163 - PLASTIC - steamboat
Canopy glue is used to glue parts to the wood deck. The wood piles were painted Testors dark gray tops and flat zinc chromate sides, and washed with burnt sienna artist oils. Edges painted with Sharpie paint pen. Painted parts held with zap super glue.
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Rudolf reacted to bcochran in Robert E Lee by bcochran - FINISHED - Pyro - 1/163 - PLASTIC - steamboat
The boiler area has been assembled.
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Rudolf reacted to bcochran in Robert E Lee by bcochran - FINISHED - Pyro - 1/163 - PLASTIC - steamboat
A pair of dark red (Tamiya Dark Red Spray) paddle wheels an some critters to be added later.
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Rudolf reacted to bcochran in Robert E Lee by bcochran - FINISHED - Pyro - 1/163 - PLASTIC - steamboat
For the little windows that are not open, I use this black Gelly Roll pen to darken the blank opening, then go over the frame with the white sharpie paint pen. I did this to the little window I added so that resembles the windows in the little cabin.
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Rudolf reacted to bcochran in Robert E Lee by bcochran - FINISHED - Pyro - 1/163 - PLASTIC - steamboat
Paddle wheels mounted.
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Rudolf reacted to bcochran in Robert E Lee by bcochran - FINISHED - Pyro - 1/163 - PLASTIC - steamboat
Using the white paint sharpie to paint the edges of part of the boiler deck, preparing to mount wood deck to plastic.
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Rudolf reacted to bcochran in Robert E Lee by bcochran - FINISHED - Pyro - 1/163 - PLASTIC - steamboat
I used a tooth pic and some acrylic yellow paint to color the lettering on the side boards. I also used a small black felt tip to outline the lettering. I believe John Fryant mentioned that that Robert E Lee's lettering my have been yellow. I didn't want the garish red lettering on my boat, so I went with yellow.
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Rudolf reacted to bcochran in Robert E Lee by bcochran - FINISHED - Pyro - 1/163 - PLASTIC - steamboat
Making a jig to rough bend the side chains. I don't have the turnbuckles yet, they will be here this week some time.
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Rudolf reacted to Hubac's Historian in Soleil Royal by yancovitch
What impresses me most is the work you did at the bow. Somehow, you appear to have re-cycled the middle gallery railing into your trailboard to brilliant effect. It looks like it grew there. You also managed a very nice sweep to the transverse supporting timbers of the headrails. My supposition, here, is that Nek0's lines lowered the knee of the head, allowing a little more clearance beneath the headrails. Did you also move the turreted head seats a little further in-board? As you are well aware, these are all of the difficult problems I've been trying to suss-through myself.
I also really like your decking; the shift pattern and nailing look very realistic with appropriately spaced beams. It really is incredible to me that you started this whole thing just a couple of months ago, and it has all come together so beautifully.
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Rudolf reacted to yancovitch in Soleil Royal by yancovitch
ok....it's probably my last posting until finished, god willing........just wish to show the shape of the hull compared to the heller hull.....the decoration on the stem is temporary, until i figure out something better....and of course, still much finicky finishing to do...and compared to the mess on the inside, it looks ok on the outside 😁..thanks for looking....cheers,........................... vic
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Rudolf reacted to yancovitch in Soleil Royal by yancovitch
ok...still lots of touching up to do, but i lowered the two sculptures, and to me it balances much better.......i may re-open the cannon port on the side gallery...haven't decided...all's recessed.....
lazy bones method of installing cannon port lids....drilled 4 holes....inserted 2 wires on the bottom, which i'll blacken somehow....inserted braided beading wire on top, which will hold paint better...now i can move the lids without breaking anything...the top lines just slide in and out and stay straight....
working on support for the rails now.....cheers.......
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Rudolf reacted to yancovitch in Soleil Royal by yancovitch
ok................got the hull built.....i guess, the most challenging thing i've done....constantly fighting off ''i'm crazy...i'm nuts'' etc.....but i persevered, and ended up with this.....not a work of art, but at least it will give a different perspective to the heller kit, which to me, makes it worth it......i think deck and wales could have been a tiny bit higher at the bow, but that's the way it came out .....painting will be just ok cause i've never had experience with the microscopic before...but all in all i think it will end up looking ok...used a cheap wood lower hull and a quick planking job, because it will be painted.....
got the wooden decks from czech republic.....but won't add sails......next...finishing the hull......oh i shortened the fore and main topmasts... i just ball parked it.....ha...the whole ship is a ball park model 😃....next post.....some time in the future...cheers, vc
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Rudolf reacted to yancovitch in Soleil Royal by yancovitch
got the bow roughed out, and cut out the fillagree background...would like to get on with the planking, but i have to wait, maybe a few weeks for the pearwood i ordered, cause the fellow's saw broke down...bow is extended compared to the kit, and will move the heads outwards....it seems to all fit, so i think the brain strain is over 🙂
only have primitive tools to work with now...gave all away when i moved into the retirement apts.............but i'll make do....
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Rudolf reacted to Valeriy V in Varyag 1901 by Valeriy V - FINISHED - scale 1:75 - Russian Cruiser
In a galvanic bath, I deposited copper on a lead-tin ingot. Then I smelted the tin and got the finished copper hull of the boat.
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Rudolf reacted to giampieroricci in HMS PEGASUS by giampieroricci - Scale 1:36 - Swan-Class Sloop from plans by David Antscherl & Greg Herbert
a few small steps forward:
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Rudolf reacted to toms10 in Charles W Morgan 1841 by toms10 - FINISHED - 1:96 - POB
Here is the finished windlass, pump & brake assembly and ship’s bell. A little bit delicate so I need to store it in a safe place until I am ready to install it.
I plan to start painting the hull now followed by the copper plates. I managed to take in an excellent demonstration by Rich from the New Jersey club on copper gilding and making realistic plates at the Northeast Joint conference. Can’t wait to experiment with this technique.
Tom
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Rudolf reacted to toms10 in Charles W Morgan 1841 by toms10 - FINISHED - 1:96 - POB
Managed to get the bulwarks painted as well as the upper hull. Let the coppering begin!!
As mentioned earlier I plan on using a copper leaf method that was demonstrated at the last Northeast Joint Conference a few weeks ago. This is going to definitely be a learning experience. 😜
I still see a few spots on the edges of white lines that need a little sharpening. Damn OCD. 😂😜
Tom
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Rudolf reacted to David Lester in Charles W Morgan 1841 by toms10 - FINISHED - 1:96 - POB
Tom, your CWM is looking wonderful. That white edge is a nightmare to paint. My wife almost had me committed before I was finished. Yours isn't looking too bad, but I just could not get a decent job. In the end I painted some paper white, cut it into strips and glued it on. That worked really well and it was completely undetectable what I had done.
I agree with John - I think you've nailed the bulwarks colour. It's a hard colour to get just right.
David
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Rudolf reacted to toms10 in Charles W Morgan 1841 by toms10 - FINISHED - 1:96 - POB
So I started on my coppering. I took a piece of regular 20# copier paper and printed a grid in Excel. Each plate will measure .145” x .500”. The grid is 50 x 20 resulting in 1000 plates per page.
The paper was then copper leafed on the opposite side then sliced to width using a scalpel and straight edge. There are plenty of You Tube videos on leafing to learn how. This was my first time and it is really not that hard.
2 pages produced the 2000 plates you see in the box below.
Here are a few up close along with one of the strips prior to cutting to the .500” lengths.
Finally I started gluing a few on to see how it would look. You need to be careful not to get glue (I am just using regular wood glue) all over the leaf because it can be tricky to get off as the leaf is only about .002” thick.
It is only about ..005 to 006” thick so it is not terribly out of scale. I am not putting any nail marks in the plates as the model scale is 1:96 so you really would not see them in the real world at normal viewing distance.
Tom
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Rudolf reacted to toms10 in Charles W Morgan 1841 by toms10 - FINISHED - 1:96 - POB
At last I finally have an identity!
Just make a couple of stars and what I am sure will be countless attempts at the eagle carving and the stern will be pretty much complete. 😁
Tom
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Rudolf reacted to shadowcaster in Dorian Ship c. 1300 BC by shadowcaster - Scale 1:100
The hull shaping...
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Rudolf reacted to shadowcaster in Dorian Ship c. 1300 BC by shadowcaster - Scale 1:100
I use counter-patterns to machine the outer casing
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Rudolf reacted to Waldemar in „Święty Jerzy” („Sankt Georg”) 1627 – reconstructing an opponent of „Vasa”
Thanks a lot. Your fine 3D pinas was also an inspiration for this project 🙂.
The ship's bow looks somewhat sharper indeed, because nearly maximum stempost rake was chosen, within limits allowed by contemporary works on shipbuilding, and in fact considered at the time proper for purpose-built warships.
Ab, please take a look at the selection of paintings below. All of them show more or less red coloured anchors. The issue is maybe not the most important indeed, I was just curious, and I have not found any explanation on this phenomenon heretofore.
Cornelis Verbeeck, A Naval Encounter between Dutch and Spanish Warships, 1618-1620
Adam Willaerts, Gibraltar 1607, 1639
Cornelis Wieringen, Gibraltar 1607, ca. 1621
Hendrik Vroom, The Arrival of Elector Frederick V of the Palatinate and Elizabeth Stuart, 1623
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Rudolf reacted to Waldemar in „Święty Jerzy” („Sankt Georg”) 1627 – reconstructing an opponent of „Vasa”
... working on bulkheads.
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