Rudolf

After looking at the model for all this time I found that the wooden stock anchors noted on my plan set looked out of place on such a progressive vessel. The big splash of brown drew the eye too much up on the this area. I made an artist's call and put more modern looking anchors in place. I find it much more pleasing to the eye.  My research showed the type as correct for this period also. I feel that as long as this was historically feasible it would be OK.
 
All for now. I'll be back soon.
 
Bruce

Hi Druxey,  Thank you.
 
These pics show the ratlines in place.  Up from the rail a bit are the fairleads. They are made by cutting tiny brass tube pieces that have had a groove turned into them so that they can be tied on. They must be check for the fit of the lines that travel through them first. They are so tiny that a dab of glue on them stuck them in place, after drying they were tied on. On the topmast and topgallant shrouds the shrouds get too close together and the ratlines are carried over onto the backstays. I found this fact in the Underhill book about masting and rigging.
 
You can see that not all of the ratlines go across all of the shrouds, but only the 5th is carried over all of them.
 
On the top and topgallant masts you can see the practice of using bullseyes instead of deadeyes. The plans show this as well as many old photos. It was probably easier to take up the slack under way? 
 
If you look at earlier photos of the lower mast tops you can see the extra bracing McKay used for extra strength between the top and cap on the lower mast doubling. Also you can see his practice of using a 3rd topmast backstay carried before the last shroud. [it sure makes the ratlines there a problem.] I'm sure it helped down on the Australia run in the storms. Also the 11 1/2 inch shrouds, stays, and backstays up to the topgallant level would give a lot of extra strength for hard driving. The extremely long sharp hollow entrance was probably for storm performance also. I think she had the sharpest entrance of all the clippers. It's no wonder his ships held so many records for speed and 400 plus miles per 24 hours. The immigrants must of had quite a ride. 3rd class down below must have been quite an experience. I wonder if they had access to the ship surgeon too. Did they get to hear the band or get the ship newspaper Lightning Times? The very long list of captain's rules sure applied.
 
Bruce

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 159 –Deadeye Chains continued
 
Work on the chains and deadeyes has been slow going, but I have a few progress pics to post.  After making the large 16” deadeyes for the lower shrouds and fitting some of them to the channels, I turned to the smallest size – the 6” deadeyes for the skysail mast backstays.  I then started working back upward in size.  The fist picture shows some of the smaller deadeyes, placed in position on a drawing of the starboard fore channel.
 

 
When this was taken, I had not yet made the 9” deadeyes for the fore and main topgallant backstays, but the other sizes are shown.  The drawing is incomplete – note the missing chain plate cleats at the foot of the chains.  The numbers on the drawing are line numbers from the rigging list.
 
I used a slightly modified process in making the small diameter deadeyes.  The next picture shows the rounding of a 9” deadeye in the lathe using a barrette file.  I used a shaped cutter for the 16" and 13" sizes.
 

 
After this step the deadeye was parted off as with the larger sizes.  The next picture shows the set up for drilling all the deadeyes.
 

 
After dropping a few of these down into the chuck while trying to align them in the jaws, I resorted to the blue masking tape in the picture to place the deadeye and hold it while tightening the jaws.  This worked perfectly and is a good solution for those of us with shaky hands.  The next picture shows drilling.
 

 
The holes are approximately 10% larger than the specified lanyard diameter.  The next picture shows the fore starboard channel with all the chains and deadeyes fitted and the capping rails pinned in place.
 

 
The last picture shows the slots for the chains on the port fore channels being filed out.
 

 
Before this step, the positions of the slots for each line on each channel was marked using a string from the appropriate height on the dummy foremast that can be seen in this picture.  A common slot size was used even though some of the chains are smaller.  This was done to allow the eyes on the lower ends to pass through the slot if a replacement is necessary later.  Since the soldered joints take rigging stresses, this is a distinct possibility given the large number of soldered joints.  Best to be prepared.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 158 –Deadeye Chain Plates
 
The deadeye chains (aka chain plates) on ships of this period were iron bar forged at each end with holes to take bolts.  I made these about 1” thick and 2 ½” in width, certainly stronger than the 11” shrouds.  These could have been made by the method used in the last post for the backing plates, namely by soldering tube at the end of a plate then slicing them off.  This would involve a lot of metal sawing and a lot of material wastage on these long pieces.  Also since the lower ends of these are bolted under the backing plates the rounding of the bolt eye need not be absolutely perfect.  The first picture shows the progression followed in forming these after the copper strips were cut to approximate width.
 

 
I used a paper cutter to cut the strips then straightened out the curls by stretching the strips in a vise as was done many months ago with the iron hull strapping.  Pulling these also hardens them, though that hardness is soon lost when they are annealed under the soldering torch.  The strip at the top has been drilled for the lower bolt.  In the center piece the lower eye has been roughly shaped.  At the bottom is the finished piece with its width reduced to the 2 ½” (.035” actual).
 
Before these parts could be sized and assembled with the deadeyes, the length of each chain had to be determined.  The next picture shows the positions of the chains on both starboard main channels being set out with the aid of a string taped at the height of the top on a dummy main mast.
 

 
Notches for the chain plates were then filed out and each plate fitted as shown in the next picture.
 

 
On this channel I set the backing links first, then pinned the chain plate at the bottom, bent the angle at the lower channel as shown. The top edge of the top channel was then marked on the plate, the plate removed and then trimmed to size.  The top of each of these was then crimped with pliers to make flat fore and aft surfaces to seat the iron deadeye straps.  In the next picture one of these straps has been formed around a 16” shroud deadeye.
 

 
The copper wire was wrapped around then crimped at the bottom.  The ends were then filed off square and then flattened with pliers.  On the ship these were bolted through the tops of the chain plates just above the channel.  I entertained the idea of bolting these until confronted with the small size – too small to drill – at least for me.  The next picture shows a strap and chain plate assembly after forming the chain at its position on the fore channel and before silver soldering the pieces together.
 

 
The next picture shows the pieces being soldered using a small propane torch.
 

 
Copper phosphorus solder was used because it blackens well with the liver of sulfur that I use to blacken the copper.  After soldering, these were dropped into a Sparex® solution.  After rinsing the deadeyes were fitted into the ring as shown in the next picture.
 

 
This entire assembly was then dipped in liver of sulfur solution to blacken the copper. 
 
The next picture shows the fore channel with the lower shroud deadeyes installed. 
 

 
These are bolted (nailed) into the 6” thick wale planking with the top bolts in the uppermost wale strake.  All the chains are shown being restrained from unruly behavior by bits of masking tape.  The smaller chain plate forward of the last shroud chain will anchor the eyebolt for the standing end of the upper topsail halyard.  This lighter duty chain has no backing plate and was made from 20-gauge copper wire flattened a bit.  I may replace this with a rectangular bar – like the others but smaller.
 
 The channel capping rails will be added after the remaining chains for other rigging are fitted.  When that is done all the chain plates will be straightened. At present the soft annealed copper on these is a bit deformed from handling. The deadeyes will be aligned neatly at the top later when the ship is rigged.  The last picture shows the main channel after fitting of the six lower shroud chains.
 

 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 157 –Deadeye Chain Backing Plates
 
Each of the larger channel chains is bolted to the hull through a backing plate (or preventer plate) for additional support.  These larger chains anchor the chain deadeyes for the lower shrouds and topmast backstays.  Chains supporting lighter rigging have a single bolt and no backing.  These plates are about 3’ long and about 1” thick with bolt holes at each end.  They are bent in an offset to fit over the chains.  The chain fabrication will be covered later.
 
The first step in making the numerous required plates was to solder brass tubes to the edges of a brass plate.  This fabricated piece is shown in the first picture after pickling and buffing to remove oxide.
 

 
I used wire silver solder and black paste flux for this.  The tubes were held for soldering with pins.  I used a small oxy-propane torch on the first side, then running out of O2 used a larger propane torch on the other side.  I normally use a small propane torch but in this case the large joints benefited from the extra heat.
 
The individual backing plates were then sliced off this strip in the circular saw using a screw slotting blade.  They were sliced off slightly over thickness.  In the next step the plates were filed smooth on one side, then flipped and filed to final thickness on the other.  The next picture shows this being done with the aid of a holding fixture.
 

 
The fixture has two milled slots, one slightly deeper for the first filing, the second milled to the final thickness for final sizing.  Both sides were polished with abrasive sticks.  The next picture shows plates before and after filing.
 

 
Each plate was then bent as shown in the next picture to form the offset.
 

 
Finally, the plates were pickled in acetic acid (white vinegar), given a degreasing bath (TIVA®) and submerged in a very dilute solution of Birchwood Casey® blacking.  They are shown after drying below.
 

 
Around 50 of these are required, but quite a few extras were made to account for expected attrition at each step and shape issues.. 
 
Chain fabrication and the 16” deadeye itting will be covered in the next part.
 
Ed
 

I repeated the process for the second flare, and there were no hang-ups this time.  Here's a shot of the overall shapes of the flared sections:
 

 
And here's the top of the main mast during a test fitting of both caps:
 

 
At this point, I cut the other end of the mast down, bringing it to its final size (I had left the bottom a little long in case I wanted to put the mast in the drill to spin it during its final sanding.  The last step was test fitting the mast in the ship.  It was a nice snug fit, and I think it looks great:
 

 
Here's a photo of the mast in the light of day, with the tops of the flares flattened out as much as possible:
 

 
And finally, here's the unfortunate gouge in the top flare caused by the irregularity in the wood:
 

 
I'm thinking that I might rotate the main mast so that this gouge is directly underneath the overhang of the bottom cap, where it will be hidden fairly well by the cap itself and the rigging.  Alternatively, I could mix some walnut sawdust with a drop of wood glue and try to fill in this little chip, sanding it out once the glue has dried.  I believe the main mast is painted black from the bottom of the lower flare to the top, so the "filler" would be hidden.  I still haven't quite decided yet.
 
Anyway, that's my progress so far -- I have spent about 27 hours on this model, in total.  I think tonight I will try to shape the topmast, which will be a little tricky since it's so thin.  I think I will spin the dowel in the drill and sand it to the proper shape this time, as I don't think I could plane such a thin dowel very accurately.  Wish me luck, guys!

Today the captain decided to visit the yard so it was necessary to mount the ladders

Client received a Pegasus. Trying successful.

Hello,
thanks to all for your great feedback.
This is pure motivation.
After a short break I do with the cutters on.
Among other things, I have the mast gate arrangements still make.
Look at the pictures:

 

 

 

 

Another project..
Better to say a bit of experimenting
Time ago I found the paper model for Le Coureur, and for the first I decided to made the hull, to see the lines and how do the paper works in this case. In meantime I found drawings from iconography, in small scale, but my intention is to made a small scale.
As I started with LN in 1:120 (in fact 1:119) I decided that it will be my standard scale so reduced the drawings .
I haven't the requested paper but used some envelopes and made some copies, glued together.
For fast and straight gluing I use PVA glue and the iron for faster work. (also with iron prevent the elements to deforms due to the water from PVA glue)
I made the skeleton and that was like a playing.. but the lines seemed nice so I decided to continue.
But the hull made from paper wasn't too nice, many panels are deformed like on the real steel boats.
So I fixed the paper with CA glue and then applied the mono-component car's putty (IMPA) which regularly is used on plastic modells
Few repeating of sanding and applying the putty, final coat of liquid fine putty Mr Surfacer and sanding with paper 1000  to obtain clear surface.
The next step will be the second layer of boat's hull, it will be done with styrene strips
 
 

I find it interesting...there is nothing in this build log that whatsoever reveal that there is somewhat of a temper involved. On the contrary, you seem to have all the patience, perseverance and endurance in the world when I look your ruler straight deck structure. Meticulously made long boats and everything else.
Inspirational!

Thanks everybody !!

 
Once hull and the standing rigg are completed, there are two major challenges left.
 
Sails and flags.
 
There may be some 500 or even more pulleys of different size and shape, but in the end this is a question of diligence. :-)
 
Sails and flags are a question of texture.
 
Most models are shown without sails because sail making is painstaking and often the final output doesn´t look like sails at all...
 
Even the thinnest tissue has the appearance of corrugated cardboard or worse. That rises the obvious question: is fabric tissue the ideal material?
 

It´s definetly not! But....
:-) Well, there are certain conventions in the honorable business of historic model ship building....
 
So I humbly took the thinnest fabric available and started with the gigantic Spanker.


 
As sail making is awfully time consuming, I had to overcome my concerns to bath the precious thing in ordinary potato starch before giving it a stiff breeze with the hot hairdryer...

.. witch resulted in swelled sails which concerve their form.
 
meanwhile the main course is ready for action. I replaced conventional seams with liquide fabric glue to avoide stiff multi layers of fabric.
 
But when it comes to flags, even the thinnest fabric doesn´t work. The texture of a flag is destinctively different from a sail.
In this case, I didn´t give a damn on conventions and looked for an unconventional alternative.
 
In the end thin copper foil proofed very effective. It was prime coated, using white enamel paint, was fixed on a sheet of paper and send through an ink-jet printer.
 

 
You just look for a beautiful "white ensign" in the net, download and print it on the copper foil, which is the ideal material to bend and twist it to a convincing "Flag". The wrinkles of the real flag (which are extremely difficult to achive) are simply printed on the plane surface and look quite realistic.

 
 
 
 

Progress on the bow details.
 
Like many things there seem to be numerous alternatives as to how the head timbers, rails etc are configured. The most significant difference I found was which of these items was visually dominant. Some images I found had the rails outside the head timbers so the rails were continuous, others had the rails inside the line of the head timbers so these were continuous and some had both in the same plane so they formed a sort of 2 dimensional grid.
 
The drawings in Lavery & Hudson seem to show the vertical head timbers as being more visible and continuous so I have gone for this arrangement. it would have been much easier to have the rails continuous on the outside of the timbers as fitting the short rail lengths between the timbers and keeping them aligned was a bit of a challenge. in reality I guess the rails would have been continuous and fitted through the timbers but I was not up to that.
 
I found it interesting to find pics of models where the main rail had been fitted much lower obstructing the forward gun port. In fact some models had deleted this pair of ports completely. As it is I will have to be careful how I fit the port lids in the open position.
 
The most obvious missing piece is Athena the figurehead. My fine carving skills are non existent and trying to craft this myself would involve a massive learning process. A tempting option could be to write a polite email to Mamoli who make a 1:75 Surprise kit and ask for their version to be sent. Although learning to carve could be quite interesting. I'm sure that Janos could give some pointers.
 
Next are the gratings and seats of ease which sit above the head timbers. These have been made up and painted.
 

L & H/Admiralty drawing
 

 
  
 
   
 
 
 
 

Greetings all, 
 
Back from holiday and into some stern detailing.
 
First dry fit of windows and some of the rails and stern arch fitted.
 
Next will be fine tuning the fit and glazing the sashes. I have done a trial on a spare sash using PVA glue spread on a piece of acrylic then window placed onto the glue and carefully peeled off and trimmed when dry. Works pretty well. Will do a few more trials on spare windows, I have a few that weren't quite the right shape, they were even worse than the latest attempts.
 
There is still plenty of details to go on the stern. Unfortunately the drawings in Lavery and Hunt don't show much detail so I need to find other sources. Some of Geoff Hunt's paintings show details and I will be working from these. There is also the "Master & Commander" replica and pictures of various other models to refer to so some creative interpretation will be required.
 
Cheers,
 
David.
 
                                   
 
      
 
                                      

As the great model maker meeting in Augsburg (near Munich) is approaching, I found it necessary to just knot some of the loose ends together.
  The officer´s hammocks have been prepared already for a long time ...     ... and some more petiteness like a small desk and a chair for Mr Rivers the gunner ...     ... some of the lumber to be seen on contemporary pictures: (under-)deck chairs and packages wrapped in sail cloth.     And immediately we have some homeliness in the smallest confinements  ...             ... and soon all is shipshape und Bristol fashion for coming Saturday in Augsburg :-)   Cheers, Daniel

After shaping the bottom figure,I decided to relieve the back of the carving.This lended to a more 3d appearance allowing me to open up the area between the legs.
 
Since taking these pics,the carving has been separated from the stock and has had a thin coat of yellow ochre acrylic.The reasoning behind this is that the wood I use for carving is far too yellow for this model.The carving would not blend with other boxwood the hull is planked with. I hope that after applying a coat of poly it will blend better.If not,it is small enough to strip and try again to find a suitable method.If I get this right,it means I can use the cast wreaths around the gunports.These are good quality from a detail point of view and a better alternative to carving 22 identical ones!!
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you very much indeed Nigel
 
The upper character is now complete(well apart from the great lump of boxwood to be cut off later )
 
I have now started on roughing out the lower one.This one is crouched down with hands together
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you Sirs,
  now back to the front, doing some catting :-)   First mistreated some wood ...     ... rounding things up ...     ... and prepared for blackening.     And there it already hangs ...     ... depper darling, deeper ...     ... ohohoh hihihigher ...                 ... and all on top ...         I hope the next updates will get more exciting again :-)   XXXDAn

Hello,
the floor boards are installed:
 

 

 
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 148 – Ship’s Boats 4
 
The last picture in Part 147 showed the top plank being glued on to longboat 1 with the channel wale inserted to provide a space for its later installation.  In the first picture the wale has been removed.
 

 
The frames may now be cut down to the top of the side and the boat removed from the plug.  The next picture shows the keelson being glued to the tops of the frame floors.
 

 
The longboats were pretty heavily constructed.  They were working boats that carried supplies or cargo and sometimes even an anchor. Ceiling stringers at the turn of the bilge can be seen in this picture as well as clamps to support the seats.  In the next picture a clamp at the wale height is being glued in after installation of the seats. 
 

 
I tried not to fuss too much with this interior work because the boats will be fixed to the skid beams inverted roughly in the position shown in the next picture.
 

 
The 25’ cutters were secured just outside of the longboats. I expect to tie down spare spars and lower studding sail booms between the longboats.  In this picture the outer planking of longboat 1 has been given a coat of white shellac as a sealer and that has been sanded smooth.  There will be a second shellac seal coat and sanding before the final white gloss acrylic finish.  The channel wales will be the same blue as the cabin roof.
 
All the pin rails visible in this picture have been fitted with their pins.  The blue masking tape was applied to stop the dropping of belaying pins into the hold.  In the next picture both the boat and the two wales have been painted and are ready for final assembly.
 

 
The last picture shows the boat placed on the skid beams.
 

 
Rudder hinges are still required.  Boats were also required to have the ship’s name lettered on the transom and bow.  This may be more than I can manage, but we’ll see.
 
Before mounting the boats I need to check for rigging clearance between the outer boats and the pin rail.  I believe all the lines that belay in the way of the boats go through shroud fairleads so there should be no problem, but it is worth a check.  It may be best to avoid securing these boats until rigging has been belayed below the boats.
 
Ed

Hi folks!
 
I started this little project as a simple study on how the body plan would translate into a 3D shape but I liked what I saw so I continued and added further details. It´s by no means finished and there are a lot of things still to do.
 
The draught can be found in D. Harris' highly recommendable biography about the swedish shipwright Frederik af Chapman.
 
It´s part of a series of drafts, ranging from a snow to a 110-gun ship, which have been made by af Chapman in 1798. Out of this series, only three ships were actually launched, a brig, a 74-gun ship and the 24-pounder frigate af Chapman.
 

 
This frigate was designed to intercept danish smugglers at the west coast of Sweden and pierced for 24 18-pounders on the upper deck plus 12 6-pounders on the quarterdeck and forecastle. But, due to lack of funds, it was never built.
 
Dimensions (imperial feet):
 
length p/p:                                                               145' 2''
breadth:                                                                     36' 9'
draught aft:                                                                16' 9''
height of the middle gun port above the water:           6' 10''
length-to-breadth ratio:                                              3,95                                   
 
I found the rather modest armament in relation to the size especially interesting. For comparison, af Chapman´s Bellona-class, which consisted of ten frigates launched between 1783 and 1785, measured 151' 11' p/p and carried 26 24-pounders and 14 6-pounders.
 
This may be an indication that this ship was designed primarily for speed, not firepower.
(but it´s not like that Chapman´s ship were slow, quite the contrary, the Bellonas were capable of going 14 knots and the af Chapman is described as the 'meilleure marcheuse de son temps' - the fastest ship of her time - in the french Atlas du Genie maritime, published in the mid-1830s).
 
 
But enough of the talking, here are some WIP pictures:
 

 

 

As I wrote above, there were more of mass production parts. Next to do were the pivot holders to the lower carriages. I made them from 0,1mm brass sheet.
 
The holes were marked with a steel needle, and then pierced through


 
The backside of the sheet lokked like this, the ridges were filed away, and the sheet bend back to flat


 
Then opened the holes to correct size, bend the flat plates  to 90° angle, and filed to rounded shape


 
As a last step the holders were mounted to the lower carriages. For drilling the mounting holes I use a sawing needle, that does not break so easy like normal drills do.

 
Front and rear holders have different shapes, but both are made the same way. They all are painted with black "silk type" colour, I paint mostly with Revell colours.


 
 
back soon for more, thank`s for watching and your likes............
 
Regards
Gerhard

Jan and Orca, you are reading me like a book - but even though not quite right ;-)
 
I already was unhappy for quite a while withe the appearance of the beakhead bulkhead    ... and this since July/August 2010 ...   ... front nice ...     ... inside horrible, visible internal structure as the planking was missing, and on top color going astray!     But 5 years are enough! - And now comes something  unbelievable, never seen and out of this world - I continue building without knocking something down ;-)   First fitting doors and gunport lids ...     ... then the inner planking, the stiffening of the door and of course seat of ease :-)     Then the fittings of doors and lids ...     ... and to use the attachments to the sprue to fasten the lids.     First step ready :-)     Just freshly fitted, I realised that the seat of ease was meant size wise to be only for children ...     ... so small demolition program and a ergonomically better rebuild was to be done.     And as there was no thrill so far in the update, I thought this was to be changed :-) In the first step 5 years ago I already drilled holes into the timberheads of the beakhead bulkhead to better guide the lines coming from the bow. But they should be rectangular to each house a sheave. But how to make a 0,75 hole into a double as high rectangle?    Some tests and it proved realizable :-)     This knowing I dared to touch the almost complete beakhead bulkhead ...     ... working my way through ...     ... inserted the sheaves ...     ... and I am happy :-)   Cheers, Daniel

Many thanks Pete, Crackers and all who pressed LIKE! ))
The next step is making one more the small detail - the nose winch
 

 

 

 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 138 – Bilge Pumps 2
 
The next task on the pumps was to make the crankshaft/connecting rod assembly shown in the last picture in the last posting.  This included the central supporting bearing pillar shown in that picture.  That part was made first - as a tapered pier with vertical gusset supports in an X pattern.  This provided an opportunity to use one of my new Christmas toys shown in the next few pictures.
 
In the first picture one of the side gusset plates is being silver soldered to the main central plate. 
 

 
The parts are firmly held in place by the two articulating clamps that are mounted on either side of a rotating ceramic base.  The clamp arms each have a pair of ball joints that can be tightened to hold the clamps very securely in any position.  The clamp rods are tungsten, so there is no problem with heat.  Also the stout handles do not heat up, so pieces can be unclamped immediately without risk of burns and the clamp springs are protected from overheating.  For someone like me, with my shaky hands, this tool is a godsend – and just in time for the plethora of metalwork coming up.  The torch is just a miniature propane torch.  Oxy flame temperatures are unnecessary for most of this work.  The next picture shows the pier subassembly held down on its baseplate for the next soldering step.
 

 
Because these assemblies will be blackened, I used Phosphorus-Copper prefluxed solder paste, which seems to blacken easier.  It has a melting point of 1325 degrees F – about the same as medium (65%) silver solder.
 
In the next picture one of the connecting rods is being shaped after drilling of the bearing hole in a small piece of brass plate.
 

 
The connecting rods were then fitted with undersize “pistons” at their bottom ends.  These fit very loosely in the pump cylinders to allow easy rotation.  I did not attempt an authentic fit with these.  
 
There are three pillow block bearings (sometimes called rhodings) that hold the crankshaft – one in the center and one mounted on each fore and aft fife rail.  These were made by slicing off individual bearings from the soldered strip shown ready for the torch in the next picture.
 

 
The bearings are provided by the hole in the brass tube.
 
 The crankshaft was formed from a length of .032” (2.5”) brass rod.  The connecting rods and center pillar bearing had to be fitted to this before bending.  In the next picture the crankshaft assembly is being test fitted to ensure unobstructed rotation.  
 

 
The side bearings are clamped to the fife rails for this.  I was very glad at this point that I did not opt for closer fitting pistons.  In the last two pictures the crank assembly has been blackened and permanently installed.
 

 

 
The central pillar and the two side bearings were cemented in place with thin CA.  So far so good.  Now it was time to make the two delicately shaped flywheels that I hope will be the eye-attracting features of the pumps.
 
Ed