Elijah

Ken:
I like the way you are proceeding - using the old CAD method to back up the newer CAD drawings.
 
The word you are looking for referring to the raised bulkheads around the engine compartment is "coaming".
 
Kurt

Ken, thank you! I had a Deja-Vu moment when working with the card stock back to about thirty years ago BC (before computers) I used these techniques while building RC airplanes for my son. The system still works well for me. I know if I built a 3D computer model in a program like SolidWorks I probably could print out a lay flat pattern; but with my computer skills I probably would still be at the computer building the 3D model.
 
Yesterday I added the anchor guide mounting brace which on the real boat had concave curves blending into the deck rails.
 

 

 
I finished up the cabin area by gluing pieces together for the roof. I also added a center lateral cross brace to defining the roof line and providing an additional glue surface for the roof since more structure will be added on top of the roof. Once all the fussing and blending was done I then painted the inside cabin surfaces black. This way rather than paint window surfaces black I can add more depth with clear windows. Painting these is much easier to do before the roof is glued in place.
While waiting for paint to dry I cut out the large engine compartment and added the raised edges that prevented the water from flowing into the engine compartment. I am sure that there is a name for them. But I added then for increased strength before cutting out the smaller compartments. I also cut the round port hole window in the front cabin wall.
 

 
Lastly, I added the wet roof to dry over night to the cabin to set the crown in it.
 

 

Ken, love the "CAD" work! Been following along and really like your explanations of work performed, with annotated drawings.

Steve, Brian thank you for your kind words. Brian I will be fine tuning the plans once complete and I know that the museum plans to sell some form of them as a fund raiser for the museum. The full size plans are CAD size D 34" x 22". As for the price of the plans I have no idea at this point. In fact you may be able to help the museum...what would you be willing to pay for a set of plans?
 
Finished closing up the hull last evening after soaking and hand forming and trimming the edges for a tight fit. I knew going in that hot water would expand the wood a bit especially at this size and that it would vary based upon the individual sheet of wood. Both sheets had tight fits when wet and a 3/64" gap developed at the bow once completely dry. Not a big problem, just cut a wedge sliver and filled the gap. There will be a false keel and rub rails to be added down the road.
 
For now the hull will be allowed to set and I will move on the the upper deck structures and once all the structures are complete I can get back to glazing putty and finish sanding the hull.
 
This shows the cut side taped in place and drying.
 

 
Here are a couple of overall views.
 

 

 
Now back to the upper deck and I located the holes for the two forward cabin wall port hole windows.
 

 
I will add the eyebrow for more structure before cutting out the windows.

Your model is turning out beautiful, I have enjoyed following this blog. I seriously once drew up a boat similar to how yours is looking, but only drew the side view. Would you be willing to sell a set of plans? For how much if you do sell the plans?
 
Brian

Wow you work quickly! And it's still sharp.
Steve

I fell back on my vintage CAD system to develop the planking for the forward hull using Cardstock Aided Design. Time spent to cut carefully with multiple pieces as needed and this one pattern can be used for both sides. Here you can see the pattern taped in place. The 3" width of the Basswood sheets I have will require using two parts. Once the first wood part is cut the top straight line is traced on the CAD pattern for the second piece.
 

 
The wood pattern was cut and trimmed with a small plane to angle cut the curved lower edge and forward bow portion. The bow end was set in hot water to soak and formed into place with edges being trimmed as needed for a tight fit and the piece allowed to dry enough to glue in place. Holes were drilled in the centerboard to insert a dowel to hold a rubber band with a braces to keep the bow edge in place. yellow glue was applied to all edges and gluing surfaces.
 

 
Here is the other side being glued in place with forward rubber band clamping and tape to hold edges tight. Spring clamps were positioned to hold the top edges just snug to the bulkheads. Some finger pressing was needed to adjust the lower edges until the yellow glue tacked off due to slight stretching of the tape.
 

 
Here the top filler parts were cut using the CAD pattern; curved edge trimmed with plane and soaked in hot water to form. Here you can see the chamfered edge while the lower mating edge is the finished straight edge. Tape and tacking with CA were used to hold in place while yellow glue set. Note that gluing tabs were added to the upper edge of the lower hull part.
 

 
Here are the lower hull sections in place and ready for finish sanding once the upper parts are installed.
 

 
Here I am back with the CAD system developing the pattern for the upper hull. Note that a second 3/16" strip was added to make up the difference for the 3" sheet width.
 

 
Here it is starting to look like a boat. The lines reminded me of it looking like a small P.T. boat.
 

 
 
 
 

Patrick, yes I like being good friends with Mr. Geometry, he has saved my butt more than once.
 
I had a good productive day yesterday and made good progress on the hull. I have added notes in the pictures that should explain what is happening. I have discovered that the hull planking will require some strip planks because of the 3" width of the sheets I have.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Now back to the forward hull.
 

Hi Ken
 
You're definitely powering along with the hull.  It's also nice to see that "Mr Geometry" is looking after you.
 
All the best!
 
Patrick

As I worked back and forth on the forward bulkheads I decided to add the aft hull planking using 1/16" x 3" Basswood sheet. I cut two identical pieces but mirror imaged for port and starboard sides. Here they are glued in place and note the advantage of using the clamp holes cut into the bulkhead to hold the concave curve of the hull.
 

 
Here is an "in progress" of developing the forward bulkheads making both left and rights and reinforcing them with 1/8" square strip stock which will also add a good gluing surface as well. I have decided at this point to add a solid nose at the bow to define the junction point of the wale joint of the hull. Later a wood strip will be added at this joint line.
 

 
While waiting for the bulkheads glue to set I decided to test fit the hull sidewall to check my joint fit between the work deck and sidewall. I was very glad of the results. My friend Mr. Geometry came through for me again!   
 

 

 
Now back to the forward bulkheads and the center boards for the aft hull bottom.

I moved on to the engine compartment and built up the basic box with with the top edges shaped to match the work deck. I located and glued it into position align on the center line and used strips clamped to the side to match the deck surfaces.
 

 
Here is the working deck glued in place with the compartment locations penciled in for reference when it comes time to cut them out. I will leave the deck solid until the hull is completed for extra strength and reduced flexing.
 

 
Once the deck glue was set I added the two compartments adjacent to the engine compartment. I am not sure what they were for but could have been battery and air compressor for the diver. Here they are in place. I also reinforced all key joints that will help when deck surface is cut away. I also added the intermediate bulkhead to develop the hull curve from the transom to bulkhead #8. 
 

 
I cut clamp holes in bulkhead #8 to assure a good tight joint when glued.
 

 
Next I cut the bottom surfaces of the hull using a side piece to develop the tight edge joint. I will glue the bottom surface on first so that the side surface will be smooth and joint free when viewed.
 

 

 
Next I am moving to the forward portion of the hull and using a 3/13 x 1/16" strip to define the hull sweep using the bow reference mark, bulkhead #8 and the reference dimension from the CAD drawing and clamping the strip to the ruler mark. From here I will develop the froward bulkheads. I am also pondering the notion of a solid carved nose section; but will decide that once the bulkheads are in place.
 

 
Back to the front bulkheads.
 
 
 
 
 
 

Me too! I'm in.
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

I'm in!
Steve

Solid start Don.  The patterns look fantastic - you got a really nice curve along the bulkhead extensions which will make for a nice curvy lady.  
 
If I remember correctly, I don't think there are any tricky things to be aware of at this stage.  The wale was tricky for me to line up, but wasn't too bad.  I found, like the TFFM series, that as the wale approaches the stem in an upward curve, it flattens out right around the last bulkhead or two.
 
I think I mentioned earlier that if you look at the NMM plans, the kit's plans deviate on some of the hatch locations and sizes.  I think the rear-most bitt actually extends through the hatch behind it, and I believe the cross bar (I'm not sure if that is the proper term) is on the opposite side of where the NMM plans show it should be (aft rather than fore).  These are all very minor variances though and in many cases, won't be noticeable if you decide to go with the kit plans.

Thanks Dave, I had a quick look at that site and it looks pretty good. I am going to have a closer look and maybe take some notes.

Thanks for stopping in and for your comment Martin. I will have to check out the gun carriages a little closer and see how they are fitting.

Since Fly and Pegasus are sisters, I thought this site might interest you:   http://hmsfly.com/index.html

Hi Don!  I missed this when you first posted, but I'm on board now.  Great progress!  This should be fun.

Hi Don -- That's quite a bit of progress you've made!  Well done.  The gunport strip looks good to me -- the test lies with seeing whether or not the guns sit in the ports at a consistent height, and yours certainly look right.
 
I think if my Fly had come with wooden carriages I'd have been tempted to use them, but they were ugly brass things, that even the Easter Bunny would turn away from.
 
Can't wait to see more!
 
Martin

Good Morning All, I trust and hope you all had happy holidays and are now back to the reality of life once again.
 I took the last five days off of my Trabaccolo build to do a little work on my neglected Pegasus, she was very happy to be in the shipyard once again.
First up was fairing the hull, sorry no pictures, then was to install the plywood gun deck. Before doing this supports were required as per so many other logs such as Mike's(Landlubber Mike). So you can see in the pictures how I accomplished this using some 3 x 3mm posts and 1.5 x 5 mm planks.
 

 
Next was the infamous plywood gunport pieces, I had little problems with these which still worries me  . I soaked them for about an hour then bent them using a curling iron. I needed to move them approx 5mm forward as one of the oar holes was being blocked by a bulkhead, but other than that it went smoothly.
 

 
While waiting for glue and paint to dry I thought I would put together the cannon carriages. Many have complained about the Amati carriages , mostly about the quality of the plywood. I am thinking they must have changed their stock as I found these ones to be quite durable and easy to work with, you can be the judge as to how they look. Amati does include 18 carriages and 16 cannons, I'm thinking these extra carriages will work fine as stocking stuffers next Christmas or even mount some chocolate in them and they could be a Easter bunny thing, at any rate they will not go to waste.
A point to note is Do Not paint the bulkheads black above the deck if you wish to paint red later    . Mine took a minimum of ten coats to cover then I just quit.
Here I am using the mill with the sensitive drilling attachment to drill the axles for the pins that hold the trucks on, then it was on to assembling.
 

 
A little out of order but here you can see the result of moving the gun port sides ahead by 5 mm. The stem post and bowsprit are not glued in place, looks so good I feel like making the real bowsprit now.
 

 
And here she is ready for a battle, well kind of, and loaded up for next stage of deck planking
 

 
Here the planking has started using the kit supplied planks. I decided on a four plank shift using 120 mm planks. I built the aft bits as they are noted for not fitting properly mine required minor adjustments and fit perfectly. So with the gunport sides causing no problems and now the bits fitting good I am really getting concerned about my usual not so good luck.  
 In my excitement to start planking I forgot I should have built the hatches first, I don't think this will pose too much of a problem, I will carry on as is and see what happens later with the hatches.
 

 
Have a Good Day

Thanks Martin, glad to have you on board

Hi Don -- I just now found your build log, and am impressed with your progress.  I'll be looking forward to reading the Adventures of Another Swan Builder.
 
Cheers,
 
Martin

Hey Don, feel free at any time to ping me with any questions.  I'll definitely see your PMs if you want to do it through there (probably the easiest way to make sure that you get me quickly), otherwise I'll try to keep track of your log

Hi Mike, Thanks for your kind words and encouragement, the light wood on the deck was a bit of an experiment. If you look close you will see some narrow strips down the middle and again framing the main room those are maple, the rest is basswood. Not much difference in looks in the pictures but the maple does finish much nicer.
 Thanks for the links to your log I was just going through your log to plan my next steps so this really helps me out. I think those supports are a real good plan and I will be doing something similar on mine. The bitts I have heard you and Spyglass talk about and I am still trying to wrap my head around that, a little more studying and hopefully the light will come on.
 Thanks Again much appreciated

Nice Don - that's a nice wood for the lower decks.  Is that maple or something similar?  I also blackened the bulkheads and other interior items.  Now that my hull is planked and the deck laid, I'd say it was probably overkill, but made me feel better.  I think it's probably most important for the stern and quarterbadges though, depending on how you do the windows if you want "depth."  
 
I also hear you on stalling before the "hard" parts, though after I end up completing them, I always think to myself, "that wasn't too bad!"  
 
Are you going to do the deck next?  If you do, a couple of things to note.  First, it's well worth considering adding midline supports for the plywood deck template.  It's a little tricky because of the various holes for the hatches, masts, etc., but you can see here how I added a few small supports which adds a great measure of support at the midline:
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7267-hms-pegasus-by-landlubber-mike-amativictory-models-scale-164/?p=243029
 
 
Second, while the kit is very close to the NMM plans, there is a slight difference in the kit's deck items to simplify construction.  I moved some of the hatches and deck items forward to better comport with the plans:
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7267-hms-pegasus-by-landlubber-mike-amativictory-models-scale-164/?p=248877
 
 
The one tricky thing if you decide to do that is that the aft hatch is too far back, and if you look at the NMM plans, the hatch should be more forward to where the bitts go through the hatch.  Also, if you are going for "accuracy," some of the bitts are the wrong size (the main topsail sheet bitts and jeer bitts) and the cross piece on the jeer bitts should face aft.  Take a look at my log here on how I approached that if you're considering going that route:
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7267-hms-pegasus-by-landlubber-mike-amativictory-models-scale-164/?p=258189
 
 
The only other thing I would suggest is that if you are cutting your own deck planking, you get a nice clean look if you butt the planks up against the hatches, rather than sit the hatches on the deck planking.  It's not really a huge deal in the grand scheme of things once the deck is finished with all the cannons and rigging, etc., but it is a cleaner look and technically more accurate if you are into such things.