kees de mol

I also worked on the remaining pieces of the Stem Post assembly.
 
Glued up, cut out and sanded.
Then dry fitted them all together.

 

 
Then I glued up the Keel and False Keel templates to wood read to cut.

 
I had thought I'd need an oscillating drum sander to make sure I managed square curved surface sanding but I noticed one member posted his using his drill press... so I did a similar rig on mine

 
 

I've completed the ladders to the lower deck and installed them. I used the Byrnes table saw to cut the grooves for the steps. The blade on the saw cuts a kerf about 0.8mm so I used the thickness sander to get the right thickness for the steps to match the grooves. 



 
I also installed the hatch covers and applied natural Minwax to all. I'll install railings and ring bolts after I finish the deck planking. 

Installing the decking planks. I didn't really like the way the screw clamps strip in the plywood bulkheads so I built some different clamps. The one that works the best is the spring loaded clamp shown below. It's easy to use with one hand and has adjustable tension. I use a black sharpie pen to lightly rub along the planking edge to simulate the caulking between planks. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Well, all the hull planks are finally on! While I enjoy planking, I'm really glad that this part of the build is completed and I can get on with other stuff - like drilling lots of holes and then filling them in again - otherwise known as treenailing!
 
Here are some photos of what she looks like at the moment.
 
John
 
One Plank to go!


 
No Planks to go!!


 
And a close up of the partly cleaned up stern just to see what it might look like later.

Vielen Dank für Ihre lieben Kommentare. Ich schnitt das erste Pferd der Galionsfigur. Ich werde nun zu schnitzen die zweite Pferd und dann Achilles. Ich hoffe, dass ich es hin gleichmäßig.
 
Grüße Kay

Bonjour, avancement du mat d' Artimon: (pas facile cette conception Anglaise):





Au plaisir de vous revoir à Vazérac
Isalbert

Hello, some pictures of the "Middle deck":
Salutations
Isalbert

I am happy to see the end of 2014, as it was a year of health drama in the family and not a lot of building work at all, but there has been a little bit of progress in making the forward magazine and platform.
 
I intended to build this in the same way as the aft magazine and platform, by building the both off the model to make it easier to work on them. I think it went ok, however I got seriously confused with my measuring and the platform was way too high at the bow, Some sanding of the platform and the clamps remedied that, and the magazine fits comfortably under it in place.
 
Next for these will be completing and fitting out the magazine and adding the filling room, light boxes and structure that surrounds the foremast step before fixing the platform in place over it. I think I will have to fit the bitt pins in place as well.
 
The first few pictures show the magazine being formed by first laying out the beams then the planking. It currently finishes where the light boxes will go and will later be extended forward.
 



 
As I mentioned above, the platform was built mainly off the model. There are still a few ledges to be fitted, but it is mostly complete apart from planking and a couple of timbers forward.
 



 
Finally, where would I be without my toys. Making the knees has been relatively easy since I fitted some CNC gear to the Proxxon mill 

 

Hi all
 
Being distracted by new toys, followed by work, I haven't done much that was photo worthy, so I thought I would post a couple of "proof of life" shots having just finished the orlop deck framing.
 

 
In the background of the photos you can see the aft magazine with roof and hoods on. Some scratches still need to be smoothed out on this, and the flash makes it look worse than it really looks.
 

 
There are bulkheads still to go in either side of the aft magazine, and the platforms will be planked, but until I start work on the forward magazine and platform I won't decide how much to plank.
 
At this juncture I would say I am not a fan of carlings and ledges .... only the fore platform, two full decks, quarter deck and forecastle to do, then no more of them - yay!
 
Cheers
Rob
 

Hey Daniel, there's no such thing as a bad question. If people didn't ask "why is that like it is" I wouldn't go back and correct the deliberate errors I make to test peoples' observational skills.......
 
Nils, every time I look at the forum I see new things to try and parts to make - the work done here is inspirational to say the least, for example your Pamir.
 
As for me, no progress this week.
 
Not even a little bit.
 
I have a good reason though.
 
The Admiral wanted some special knitting needles made to knit rugs with, so it was plain to the simple deckhand that a tool was required for the task.......
 

 
Obviously a CNC kit would be beneficial to optimise said deckhand's time in the yard......(What can I say, I work in IT, lived with computers since 1976 and remain fascinated by geek stuff, love toys of all types and this thing is just immense fun.)
 
Haven't started on the needles yet, but have done some test subjects just to be sure I get them right ....

Here we see examples of a "pointy" end that didn't meet specifications for wool handling. And apparently they were too short .... sigh, I shall just have to try more "tests"
 
and , ok, I admit the whole needle idea came up after the lathe arrived....
 
This is the third attempt on both the carronade and cannon (we don't like to talk of the 2nd attempt at both - hair raising would be an appropriate comment, if I had any). I am practising using Acetal (Derlin) plastic rod which I believe is hard to glue bits to, so brass will be the final material - I just have to get brave enough to see the metal fly and then relearn soldering - fortunately there is a very good thread on soldering on the forum.
 
However it is back to the "real" work this weekend, I promise.
 
Oh, and the needles.....mustn't forget the needles.......

20 midship frames are cut (which makes it 50% of overall frames!):

 

 
Looks ship-alike!

 
Starting from the midship ones because other frames are much more complex, I can get some skill and experience on an easier midship ones.
 
Overall build status:

(the frames I currently have installed on a model would be replaced by the newly produced - they are made out of different wood, more yellow-ish)
 
Next step is nasty, and I am trying to push it down the road - sanding the face of every frame on a sanding board. Produces lots of dust, takes around 20 min per frame..
So will switch to the keel instead, then simulate the iron bolts with monofilament, then...

Hello Michael,
She is scratch built plank on bulkhead ,mahogany planking 8 x 3, After sanding and finishing the hull I applied a layer of tissue fibre glass, then polished with 1500 water paper and then buffing compound. The deck housing accommodates the radio control servo winch for the sails 1:1 for the fore sail and 1:3 disadvantage for the main sail then a second servo for the rudder.
Hoping to launch finally at the club in a month or two, the detail is never ending as I am sure you are well aware of.
Kind regards
Owen

I got the gammoning made, I used a technique that I found on another forum to allow the bowsprit to be removed. I have also started on a new spritsail yard, in the picture the yard is really long due to me not being sure about how long to make it. I will cut the yard shorter later after staring at it for a great long time to figure out how long to make it.
I am running into a bit of a problem which is that if I keep up at this rate I will soon run out of spars and be forced into making sails again . The figurehead was put in place for these pictures as I actually forgot about it for awhile and it needed some screen time.





 
Lextin.

I have done some work on the bowsprit. Now it is actually tapered and the cap is now perpendicular to the waterline instead of the bowsprit.




Lextin.

I have gotten tired of making sails so I decided to do a little work on the spars. I first made the mast cheeks supporting the trestle trees then I put some color on the fore mast, I also finished (somewhat) the topmast(s) and the fore gaff. I feel that this little bit of work has made the model look dramatically more complete.





This is a mockup of an idea I have for the battery hatch cover.

 
 
 
 
Lextin.

poop deck...

 

Small advance forward today

Hi everyone!
Thank you for stopping by and all of your advice and help. The problem is that the angle of the starboard side planks is greater than the port side. The distance from center line on the starboard is grater than the port. I was able to realign the mast blocks with the stem and keelson. I also moved the forward port side the the forward cabin 3 inches closer to the side. I will have to trim some of the planks on the foc's'le to try and hide the difference. I have only 1 deck beam to complete on the foc's'le. That is the very first one. I placed a stub mast and a temporary sampson post to get an idea of how it will go together. I have not glued in any of the deck beams. The are a couple of additional tasks to complete on the hull before I can glue them in place.
Disassembling the mast blocking.

Making sure the mast is straight this time.

It looks straight this time.

My current status.






 
Thanks again everyone.

Hello,
 
the work continues with the gratings and coamings of the quarter deck, and ladder way to gun deck. In this case the gratings should look like "real" and have proper thickness and shape. Follow images show the process. First the upper edge of the block was shaped on this jig:
 

 

 
then cuts are done on tablesaw:
 

 

 

 

 
then strips are glued and the whole was sanded again in the jig:
 

 

 

 
Coamings are build around gratings, ladder way and coaming added:
 

 

 

 

 
All is dry fitted now.
 
Alex

Hello,
 
next update: the lower capstan. I cut a notch in to inner edge of whelps and then filed the edge to pass them to the barrel. The images show the process explanably I hope...
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
The "metal" is black paper
 

 

 

 
Regards
Alex

Thank you Pat.
 
Jibboom Crupper
 
The aft end of the Jibboom is held fast by the Crupper, a similar arrangement to the Gammoning on the Bowsprit :
 

 
Jib Traveller
 
This is a tricky piece of "iron" work. The Traveller holds the Jib Outhaul and the running end of the Jib Stay. It's purpose is to allow the Jib sail to be adjusted or moved along the jibboom.
 
It consists of a ring which encircles the boom, a shackle to which will be attached the outhaul and the stay, and a hook which holds the tack of the jib (the forward corner).
 
I made the shackle and hook first, silver soldering the eyes. Then I bent the ring and slipped the shackle and hook through it, closed up the ring and finally silver soldered it closed. These pics show the assembly before cleaning up and blackening :
 

 

 
And the traveller on the jibboom :
 

 
  Danny

Thanks for looking in again John, Grant, Greg and David .
 
Topgallant Shrouds and Stays
 
The Topgallant Stays are the first lines fitted, unlike on the lower masts where the shrouds and backstays are fitted first. I decided on this arrangement after reading Lees who quotes Steel on the "Order of Dressing". TFFM has the stays fitted as per the lower masts.
 
EDIT - see a few posts below. This could be wrong   .
 
The Stays and Shrouds are all served around the mast and for a few feet below. The forward stay may have been served for it's full length, but at this size of shroud (0.2mm) the serving would have looked too large so I've omitted that.
 

 
The running end of the backstays end in deadeyes fitted to the aft end of the channels on the Main mast, and on the aft deadeyes on the stools for the Mizzen and Fore masts :
 

 
The running end of the Stays on the Main and Mizzen masts lead through a block stropped around the lower mast heads and are tied to the strop of the topmast lead blocks :
 

 
An overall view of the Main Topgallant Stays and Shrouds :
 

 
The Topgallant Futtock Shrouds are fitted in similar fashion to the topmast futtocks :
 

 
  Danny

stage 7 part 2  
I continue a bit scattered in my activity. I find as I study one aspect to another I need something.....how unusual.  with almost four feet of snow over the past several weeks here in Maine, I am challenging UPS, fed ex ground et al.  
 
currently on order
a handle so I can use the small dies to cut threads onto the 1/8 brass rods needed to attach the sailing rudder to the display rudder.  see photo with this approach there will be two 1/8 threaded rods protruding from the display rudder. the sailing rudder would slide on to the rods and with holes perhaps 3/4" , allow fitting a washer and nut to hold it in place. I may try to build the display rudder with two holes but I fear it isn't big enough. To add washer and nut would take up too much of the display rudder. I need the rods to transfer the torque of the sailing rudder and thus the longer bend of the brass will take the stress better. unfortunately that means a few extraneous rods. I have seen nesting connecting rods but that are typical 1/4 diameter or bigger. servos of two types on order.  This is my weakest area of knowledge, and I will be experimenting on this subject.  I will need switches and wires and connectors and and ?? I am sure more than one more order hear. mast hoops for a sailing model. well I tried cutting out of copper pipe. with the patina the old pipe is a nice brown.  Also I actually have a few pieces of 5/8 ID recovered from my brothers steam engine shop. The problem is that using a band saw the best I can do makes them1/8 and that would be 6 inches wide....urgh I ordered the birch plywood ones from Bluejacket. they are wonderful for static models.  I am not sure if they are strong enough and will do some testing. I ordered copper flat washers 17 x 21 MM and 1.5 mm thick.   If the copper will age, they may be perfect. I anxiously await them. making up a roll and cutting...I am still stuck with the thickness issue and strength for sailing I have o rings that would be very functional but hopefully I can avoid using. To buy them brown is >$.30 each   wow anchors...two sizes on the way with other fittings from Bluejacket....they will protrude from the hull and need to be water proofed. This is to be a story in itself.. Resin....off to the local store sail and rigging material. I have lots of nice Muslim that I use for stationary sails.  since I plan to look at the model more than to sail it , I plan to try them first.  I am also thinking about trying some 2 oz Dacron.  More to think about I need sheets that work well, feed through the fairleads, allow for on the water adjustment etc. but don't look too big.  I believe this will be an area to justify a little over sizing.  Lizards and seized grommets are nicely described by Douglas Lee for both lacing to gaffs and lashing to hoops.  The smallest brass grommets I have are OK for the clew , reef points etc. but too big for lacing. On stationary models I just sewed the hoops and that is my current choice shrouds are cable.  I can not put too much load on cable to keep it straight.  I plan to use wire and copper/brass pipe for crimps. Again the problem is scale.  I have some thin wire bought years ago from Fisher and that is another internet search. turnbuckles.  My method is 2 brass eyes tail to tail with a 1/16 brass tube all glued. In stationary I would just make it up by using black coated wire.  Here I am trying to make galvanized and would love to figure out how to make the slots.  On the lower mast shrouds they line up and have a wooden turnbuckle keeper...nice detail if I can doo it progress
 
mast stepping
this was a lot of fun.  Here I set up the hull on the level work bench and did my measuring to get the mast all to the same point.   The tops of the lower masts on these schooners was level as they are all connected with spring stays. I then checked it out with a 4 foot carpenter level and yippee. I then build the mast deck surrounds. one minor fact to note is that the rake of the masts changes as one works aft.  The foremast rake is 1.75, the main and mizzen are 2 inches and the spanker is 2.25. more preparation prior to the under deck 
the fairing process goes on. I needed a little more on the transom to make it square up and several cross beams to be able to set the anchors I need to build inward the hawse planks . I call it a wall in this case.  I shall drill the hawse holes through all of this.  I will then add a second block with a smaller hole to receive the anchor shaft, then hopefully this opening will be water proof. masts:   the Sitka spuce is pretty. If I just varnish it , it will also be pretty but light.   The old masts were all oil and not so pretty.  I have experimented and selected a light coating of cherry stain .  In the first photo I just applied it to the first mast....it covers the grain.  in the second photo I have rubbed off most of the stain and the grain comes through and I hope I am more representative of oiled spruce. the 3rd photo shows all the other spars after their coat of rubbed stain. the yokes were made of a hard wood for strength. it has a tiger maple look to it and it will be a shame if or when I paint them all black...... all spars get clear polyurethane. I set the bow sprit after adding the bee, the jib boom block and some brass bobstay bands. again I continue to use copper wire epoxied as pins where I am looking for added strength. I used them also in evey cross beam connection on the deck framing and mast surrounds  
all for part 2
 

The keel post is made and finished next is to place it into the lead bulb with resin to hold in in.

I must say the for my first build this is going very well, but I find the going very slow this is one of the things i have to get used to.
That went well and after sanding i did spray it into the final colour.
 

the contraption is ready to do the same but only into the hull, lots of "do i do it right or wrong" one of the things I looked very precise at is that the rudder and the keel are parallel.
It worked well, I needed only a limited amount of sanding to get the finish i wanted.
I masked the joint sprayed under coat , metallic gray and first clear coat this went well and looked fine.
The final clear coat was a disaster the lot ended up with a crinkle coat, i looked at it and did not know what went wrong!
This has never happened to my all the 45 years fine furniture making, then of course I never sprayed with spray cans on furniture.
It only means more sanding and start again this time it worked very well no change from procedure sinds the last time, and was relieved it looked good.
 

This a the result of all the hard work and I love it.
 
Cheerio

The masy and sails next.
making the mast is easy cutting to lenght and drilling holes is always easy.
I made some fitting for the mast to hold the boom and a stay to keep the boom under tension.

I did decide not to have a washer on the deck but a nice shiny NZ 2 cent to hold up the mast.
That is now also the name of the boat, " 2 Cents".

The sails are made of drafting paper and are in place.

 
I could not resist to get the boat in the water and did try an maiden voyage.
She goos very good, but with the wind very strong this week-end we took in some water du to no seat in the hatches.
The hatches where only taped into place with making tape.
She is vast and a joy to sail.
 
on return i sealed the hatches and made nice brass screws to seal it.
Hope fully next week i can try it out better and start having fun with it.

 
Cheerio
Bernhard