GuntherMT

With as useful as these videos are, I vote that they be added to one of the pinned threads, or this thread be pinned in the forum.  The techniques shown in the videos are something that I think everyone should be able to find easily.

The plans are 34" at 1/60 scale.  If my math is right, that would make it 42.5" at 1/48 scale and 63.75" at 1/32.

The traveler is blocked by the tiller.  Jibing would be pretty exciting if removing and replacing the tiller became part of the process.    The tiller should probably be under the traveler.

Yep, you just do exactly what you did in your post, enclose your search in quotation marks.
 
Example "Steam Capstan" will only return results with the phrase.  Just searching for Steam Capstan defaults to returning results with either Steam, or Capstan or both.

Agreed, it's great that Rob has done this for the community.  Not sure I'll ever use it since I have my existing system that works fine for me and I'm used to, but this is a wonderful resource for anyone who wants to use it and hasn't already figured out how to accomplish these tasks.

I glued them one at a time also, did not pre-assemble them.  Worked perfectly.

Mine was started, but then life has gotten in the way and I haven't done anything in the model room for months.  Hope to get back in there soon, but no promises.  The start of the longboat was very good though, as seen in my now dormant log.

Fair enough, I was just curious how it would have been done on the real thing.

Thanks!

Gilmer will ship to you.  It won't be cheap mind you as you are shipping a chunk of wood, but they usually have some good pieces of American Holly in stock.

You can get Holly from Gilmore Wood Company, but you need to mill it into the proper sizes yourself:
 
https://www.gilmerwood.com/categories/38-boards-and-blanks/products?utf8=✓&filter=Holly&category=
 

I drew a stupid picture in Paint to hopefully demonstrate better than my words what the 'jig' would look like in order to get a bunch of cuts at the exact same length.  The brown boards are glued to the base board.  The blue board is just stuck into the jig for cutting and held by hand.
 

The cool thing about a little jig like this is you can use it for all kinds of different lengths, just add new slots for the new lengths, and you can write a note onto the base board at each cut telling you what that specific cut length was for.

The biggest problem with them is inconsistency, so you have to thin then test, thin and test, and each color (and each jar) will me markedly different than the others.  I used them on my AVS and got good results, but I won't be using them again.  Also they are completely unsuitable for spraying if you ever go that route, they'll gum up your airbrush with rapidity as the pigment is not fine enough for airbrushing.
Since you already have them, I'd say give them a shot, and if you just don't like them, it's not that much money to replace as needed with Vallejo or something else higher quality.

Looks much better.  Final suggestion, if you lock the lower deadeyes in place, you can tighten up the lanyards (remember, on the real ship they are quite tight to hold the mast steady from side to side) which should pull the upper deadeye in line fairly well now that the lanyards are run correctly so that they won't be trying to force a twist.

Brian, but Gunther is fine too, it's an old nick-name.
Your idea to thread the needle through is a good one.  In my case I wasn't looking far enough ahead when I put the shrouds on the deadeyes, and thought I was being smart my making the shrouds so tight around the deadeyes.  Later on I realized how the lanyards were supposed to run through the gaps, and was sort of kicking myself.  I chose not to redo them because it would have required completely remaking the shrouds.  I did everything on a jig, which you can see if you select my AVS build log link in my signature - I have an index in the first post which you can use to jump to the entry "Main mast standing rigging begins" which is where the jig is shown (or, just click there, since apparently copy/pasting the line in the log also copied the link).

Ignore the first drawing I posted when looking to secure the lanyard at the end.  Look carefully at the 2nd illustration.  The lanyard comes up behind the deadeye from below, going FIRST through the gap between the deadeye and the shroud, then loops around and underneath itself, and then wraps around the shroud above.  There are no knots, the very end of the line is seized to the shroud with a small seize.
 

 
The red arrow is pointing to the seizing.  Notice that there are no knots at all.  On my model I accomplished keeping this line fairly neat by the simple expedient of soaking everything thoroughly in 50/50 white glue/water mixture and just taking my time.
 
Mine are not quite done correctly either, as I did not leave enough gap between the deadeye and shroud to make the proper feed through from below, so mine just wrap around and under instead of going through the gap like they should.  It would be neater and more secure with the gap though.
 

The first picture shows the deadeyes oriented correctly, but the other three have the lower deadeye 180 degrees off.  I think they are pictures of opposite sides of the ship, and on the one side they are fixed and the other they aren't?

I agree with the prior two posts, the lanyards are being run incorrectly, and that is probably where your twist is coming from.  The lanyards should always run from outside face to outside face, never cross from front to back in the run from top to bottom, and when it comes up to the top on the last one, it should be behind the deadeye.
 
This drawing is wrong on where to start (should be on the left, not the right), but shows that the lanyards always go from outside to outside, and inside to inside.  If you flip this left to right it's correct:
 

 
Here is another drawing showing it correctly, but without the 'step by step' arrows.  You can see from the 'outboard view' (the one on the right), that the outside always goes to the outside corresponding hole in the deadeyes.  You can also see how the final run comes up from below on the inside, and goes between the deadeye and the cross-over of the shroud.
 

 
Be sure to click on the above drawing to see it full size for clarity.

Wow, it's been a full week since I've updated this.  Vacation from my posting for everyone!
 
Thanks to everyone for the likes and comments on last weeks update, I do read and appreciate every one of them.
 
The reason for no updates this last week is really that I'm in a phase of the building where very little visibly changes from day to day as I was working on completing all of the gunport sills which took me several days, and then another couple days to fit the inner bulwark planking and prepare it for painting.  This morning I put the first coat of primer on, and it's now drying so with nothing I can really do on the ship, time for an update here!
 
Let me start out this update with a bit of commentary on two of the most useful tools for this segment of the build, and really I see them being some of the more heavily used items in my inventory going forward.
 
1) The common disposable syringe with a 23 gauge industrial (not sharpened) tip.  I got these from Amazon because I'm an Amazon junkie.
 
100 Syringes and 50 tips are about $20 bucks to my door, which makes them pretty darned cheap individually, and I find that I can use a single syringe and tip for weeks before needing to replace the tip or syringe.  I cover the tip with masking tape in between uses, and when it gets clogged up, a #78 micro-drill is a perfect fit to clean it out and keep on trucking.
 
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001889SBA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0021M3NSQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
The syringe allows for very precise placement of very small amounts of glue in places that would be very difficult to get into with the regular glue dispenser (especially with CVA), and it is not messy and wasteful like using a toothpick, and I don't have to deal with the CVA bottle tip cleaning constantly.

 
2) The UMM Micro saw pack - http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?cPath=21_28&products_id=37
and the UMM micro mitre box - http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?cPath=21_28&products_id=3340

 
This has rapidly become my go-to tool for cutting of pieces to length.  It's fantastic for trimming overhanging pieces very closely and very precisely, and with the mitre-box it's much more accurate than the X-acto aluminum mitre-box and razor saw and has a much finer cut with less splintering.  I found this on a post on here, but I can't seem to find it now.  Whoever recommended this a couple months ago, thank you, it's an awesome tool.
 
On to the actual update.  My deck on the port side has some issues that I did not realize until last week when installing the spirketing planks and seeing how badly out of whack the gun ports were with the top of the plank.  The photo doesn't really show it very well, but the deck has a significant dip, and then a corresponding rise at the forward two gun port locations.

 
I spent a lot of time trying to figure out how I could fix this, and I sanded down the spirketing plank at the forward gun port in order to make the sill be at approximately the correct height on the outer hull.  Other than that I finally went with the "Congress" solution, and stuck my head in the sand, pretended it didn't exist and went on.  I don't think it's fixable at this point, as the core issue has to be in the bulkhead tops under the false deck, so I'm just going to work around it as I go and see what happens.  Chalk this up to lessons and try to figure out how to better detect this at the fairing step on future builds.
 
Adding the inner bulwark planking was fairly straight forward, just cutting pieces to length, edge beveling to get a nice close fit to the previous plank, and gluing them in place.

 
At the bow, even though everything will get wiped out by the hole for the bow-sprit in the future, I decided to try a technique I've seen in a couple other builds, and rather than bevel the ends to try to get a perfect alignment with the other side, I 'criss-crossed' them.  I put the first plank on the starboard side all the way to the bass-wood on the other side, then butted the port side plank up against that one, and then put the next port side plank all the way to the bass-wood and on top of the first plank from the starboard side, repeat to the top.  I really like the results, and will probably use this technique in the future for places where planks join at an angle like this.

 
The poop deck area required quite a bit of work and trimming before I had both sides pretty equal and the inner planking fitting correctly, but in the end I think it came out well.

 
After sanding (going to need to make myself some oddly shaped sanding tools/sticks in the future for working on the 'inside' of things like this), I thinned Model Shipways primer - 1 part water to 4 parts primer, and applied the first coat of primer.

 
And that's where I'm at now.  I did however, between various things do a bit more experimentation with my Holly decking.  I increased my drill size to .031" from the original .024", so the holes are now oversized for scale, but I'm going for 'appearance' vs. accuracy here.  I made some tree nails out of round toothpicks, as I wasn't happy with the bamboo.  I think I'm even less happy with the toothpicks, they get very dark when sanded down flush with the deck.  I also tried wood filler in the larger holes.  Still wasn't all that happy, but when I applied the wipe-on poly, something magical happened, and the wood filler got just slightly darker!

 
Above shots are with 3 coats of Min-Wax wipe on Poly with a steel wool wiping between coats.  For the final deck I believe I will split the difference in hole sizes and go with a .028" hole and use the wood filler.  I will test this on my test deck first, but based on the appearance of the wood filler in the .024 & .031 holes I am fairly certain this will get to the appearance that I'm looking for.
 
Whew.. if I was talking I'm sure I'd be all out of breath now!  Until next time, take care all, and happy ship building.

Almost 5 years to the day....she is finally finished.   Always a bit anti climactic.   Thank you all for following along all these many years.  For those of you building her,  I hope you are having as much fun with it as I did.
 
Well here goes the final pics.  The top picture is of course of the Winnie contemporary model which inspired me as well as the Amazon.   I hope I did them justice.   Everyone should build a Georgian style model of an English frigate at least once in their lifetime.
 


 












 
 

I've added seat risers to the inside of the Dory, added the bands reinforcing the top edge, and sanded the top edge level.
 
For the seat risers I ended up installing them with the bottom edge lined up with the top edge of the garboard plank. This matches the little section diagram shown in step 17 and lines up with the plans close enough.

Looking great!  Glad some of my documented issues are being used to make it easier for people coming along behind me.  Beveling those dumb transom pieces 'in place' was a pain in the butt!
 
On the false deck for the poop deck - you actually want it to only cover the back half of the front bulkhead - this gives you a natural 'step' for the piece of wood that goes in front of your decking here, rather than having to cut one in.
 
I'm bad at explaining, so just look at these two pictures, one just before setting the trim piece, and one with it in place:
 

 
As you can see, since the trim piece is almost exactly the same thickness as the false deck + the deck planking, leaving the step is very beneficial when you get to this point later!

I've seen the bird carvings that Frank (Mahuna) has made, and I'm not sure there are proper adjectives to do them justice, so I'm going to say that they work really well on wood with the right artist driving.  

Been a while since I've stopped in Bill.  Your progress is amazing as is your workmanship and detail.  I love the small touches you are adding like the map and the captain's letter!

Photo's from earlier.

Once the lap joints were secure, I moved on to attaching the 4 other parts of the keel, which are centered on the now finished section.  I followed the instructions and added the bow piece first, then the two stern pieces, and then finished with the long center piece.  This kit is going to completely wreck my desire to do any 'mainstream' wood kits, as every single piece so far has fit perfectly without any adjustment at all.
 

Cleaned up all the excess glue before it could dry, and then moved on to removing the laser char from the edges.  Decided to give everything a coat of wipe-on poly per the instructions, when I discovered that my can of wipe-on poly is now a brick of solid poly.  Oops!  Time for a run to the store.
 
Returned from the store and decided to go ahead and do the nails before the poly because I didn't want to wait for it to dry.  I used some tracing paper to trace the pattern for the nails from the plans, and then used a pin to mark the locations on the keel parts on both sides.  I then test fit the mono-filament line in several different size holes, and ended up using a .028" drill for the holes, which is a nice tight fit.  Drilled out all the holes and then inserted mono-filament line into the holes after dipping the end in my wood glue and clipped it off to dry.  
 
 
I used edge-cutters to cut the line very close to the wood, and then finished with a straight razor, being careful not to cut into the wood.  Gave everything a final pass with 220 grit sandpaper, and then cleaned everything and applied the first coat of wipe-on poly.
 

You don't say where you are getting your scale hardware now, so hard to say where to get it cheaper.  The only place I'm aware of for things like this is https://model-motorcars.myshopify.com/collections/small-parts-hardware
 
Alternative method would be to buy the stock and buy tiny jewelers taps and dies and make your own, no idea where to source that stuff and I'm sure it's not cheap though.