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Model Shipway's Paints


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When I purchased the Bluenose from Model Shipways I also purchased the accompanying paint set. 

 

I had seen some bad reviews about Model Expo's paints.  However I'm not sure if the Model Expo's paints are the same as the Model Shipway's paints.

 

It was a small investment to get the paint.  I was more concerned about getting the colours right.  Should I go ahead and use this paint or should I throw my investment in the trash and go another route.  I plan on using a brush and not airbrushing.  If in fact this paint is not recommended, is there something I can do (use thinners etc) to still use it.

 

Your comments would be most appreciated.

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The biggest problem with them is inconsistency, so you have to thin then test, thin and test, and each color (and each jar) will me markedly different than the others.  I used them on my AVS and got good results, but I won't be using them again.  Also they are completely unsuitable for spraying if you ever go that route, they'll gum up your airbrush with rapidity as the pigment is not fine enough for airbrushing.

Since you already have them, I'd say give them a shot, and if you just don't like them, it's not that much money to replace as needed with Vallejo or something else higher quality.

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Vallejo makes a paint specifically formulated for airbrushing straight from the bottle - no mixing or dilution required. They also make a formulation for applying with a brush. Both are available from Hobby Lobby or Micro-Mark (in NJ) mail order.

Edited by Jack12477
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4 hours ago, Jack12477 said:

Vallejo makes a paint specifically formulated for airbrushing straight from the bottle - no mixing or dilution required. They also make a formulation for applying with a brush. Both are available from Hobby Lobby or Micro-Mark (in NJ) mail order.

Amazon has the paint too.

I like Vallejo's paint.

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12 minutes ago, mtaylor said:

What size hardwood?  Are we talking billets, logs, sheets, strips?    So... wide open question so the answer is depending one what, will determine the tool.   There's assorted power and hand saws, even Exacto blades.   

 

Did you read the basic hand tools article here:  http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-materials-and-tools.php ???   That section should answer all your tooling questions.

As Mark mentioned, did you read the article about materials and tools? I also posted that article for you to read in Chuck's planking questions.

I would sincerely recommend to read through many of the help and hint articles posted. Most of the questions will be answered there.

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On 2/21/2017 at 2:15 PM, Worldway said:

When I purchased the Bluenose from Model Shipways I also purchased the accompanying paint set. 

 

I had seen some bad reviews about Model Expo's paints.  However I'm not sure if the Model Expo's paints are the same as the Model Shipway's paints.

 

It was a small investment to get the paint.  I was more concerned about getting the colours right.  Should I go ahead and use this paint or should I throw my investment in the trash and go another route.  I plan on using a brush and not airbrushing.  If in fact this paint is not recommended, is there something I can do (use thinners etc) to still use it.

 

Your comments would be most appreciated.

FWIW, I tossed the Model Shipways paints and went with Testors Model Masters acrylics, applied using a brush.  At the time the MS paints were thick and chunky, and I fell back on what I was comfortable with from my old plastic days.

 

Bob

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I hope I am adding useful information to this mix. Here goes.

 

I have yet to try these paints as I was a "committed" Floquil user for many years and had good results (spraying or brush) with them albeit the toxicity was a constant worry. When I returned to modeling recently I was disappointed to learn of the demise of the company. I turned to Model Master paints as an alternative and found them to be a reasonable substitute although I am still in the experimental stage. I did run across this chart on the web that correlates the 2 brands. It i MEhttp://www.microscale.com/Floquil Color Chart.pdfs . I have also been looking at Tru Color paints trucolorpaint.com which are supposed to be comparable to Floquil paints in propertiies if not color. I have tried to get a chart comparison from them but the last time I tried they never came through. Both MM and Tru Color are mixable to get any hue or color one is looking for. I solicit comments from others.

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43 minutes ago, singhnick348 said:

What is the average price for a bottle of Vallejo acrylic paint? 

 

Do you ever do your own research ? Or do you expect us to do it for you?


ModelExpo - Vallejo paints

 

Hobby Lobby - Vallejo paints

Edited by Jack12477
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  • 1 month later...

I have bought and used the model shipways paint and have to agree with Brian that it is very inconsistent.  I have several jars of their paint that were never opened before and yet when opened the paint appeared to be a shrunken hockey puck!  Some of them were more the consistency of paste, and even with prolonged mixing and thinning with water, required much sanding to eliminate the coarseness of the finish.  I don't know if somewhere in shipping they were frozen or what.  On the other hand. some of the others that I was able to use seemed to work just fine.  So my opinion is to search for another brand or hope you get lucky.

Dave

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I built the Bluenose II and wanted a midnight blue color for the upper hull and a rust red for below the waterline. I couldn't find what I wanted in any brand of paint. I went to Lowes and looked at all their paint color chips and found the colors I wanted. I had them make me a trial jar of each color using eggshell acrylic base. I thinned this 20% with distilled water, Brushed on several coats, and finished with a satin Wipe-on-poly. Came out very nice. At $3.95 for an 8 oz. jar, you can't beat this.

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MS paint dried up very quickly once a jar was opened.

So I did a try with our food vacuum sealer, shh don't tell the admiral,

Process:

1 - opened the jar - did some painting on a test piece of wood, that meaning returning the brush back to the jar.

2- closed the lid - only hand tight

3 - put the jar in a sealant bag, used the vacuum sealer

4 - had it sit for one week.

5 -  open the bag and jar, not completely dry paint but much more dense.  Couldn't get it diluted properly.

Wonder if there is something of the chemistry of the paint that causes it.....

I am not a chemist maybe someone else has an explanation.

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Pet peeve of mine: Floquil paints are not "acetone based" and Acrylics are not "water based". In both cases the water and acetone are in the case of the Floquil, solvents for the paint polymer vehicle or, in the case of Acrylics, they are water borne i.e. they are suspended in the water by various means but not soluble in the water(acrylic paint vehicles have little or no water solubility depending on their acrylic polymer's composition). There are acrylic paint vehicles that are soluble in the appropriate solvent blend (KRYLON spray paints for example). Some acrylic vehicles have partial solubility in water alcohol mixes which is how acrylic water borne hobby paints develop good flow and level properties.

 

Best

Jaxboat

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  • 5 weeks later...
On ‎23‎/‎02‎/‎2017 at 10:06 PM, Nirvana said:

Amazon has the paint too.

I like Vallejo's paint.

I've taken to using Vallejo's paints. they brush on nice and smooth and coverage is excellent and are very vibrant, They also come in a good sized bottle.

Paul

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Hello Les here. Here's my short primmer on paint. Sand out wood till smooth. If you have a compressor blow off sanding dust and wipe down with a damp lint free cloth. Blow off again. Over bare wood I use Humbrol or Testors flat oils.  Oil soaks into wood and seals better than latex. Spray or brush on in a light coat. After 12 hours sand lightly and repeat if necessary. Now your good to go. Use oil or latex for your top coats. A smooth base will give you a good start on the top coat. I have seen many finishes ruined by a lack of proper pre prep.

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Confusion continues for this novice.

 

In another section in this category, I asked about using paint samples from Lowes or Home Depot.  I received several answers describing that paint pigment's will be to large and cover detail.  I specifically mentioned latex, which is also mentioned above.  Does thinning reduce pigment size?

 

Chuck A

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Pigment is prepared for incorporation into paints and inks in various ways. The general term is grinding. Energy is applied to the pigment to disaggregate the particles and wet them. I have made water borne acrylic house paint in a lab with a Waring blender. The finer the pigment the smoother the finish. House paints from home depot are not going to have the finer sized pigments of a good quality waterborne paint. BTW: not all waterborne paints are latex. Latex emulsions are totally insoluble in water.They are stabilized in water as emulsions by surfactants (soaps). Some waterborne paints have limited water solubility and are called water reducible. Such solubility aides in pigment dispersion and flow and leveling during application either by brush or spray. Waterborne acrylics are very sophisticated and chemically complicated beasts.

 

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Hello Les here. As a cabinet maker, I spray my own finishes. I thought man I can save big money and buy a quart of latex paint for 12 bucks where a tiny bottle of Testors or Humbrol is 4 bucks. Didn't work out so well with my airbrush. However it has to do with how finely the pigments are ground. Trying to airbrush with Benjamin Moore paints won't work, nice if you use a Binks automotive sprayer  to spray cars and furniture. Trust me on this issue. Hand brushing works out well but you may have to thin it out a little to get an acceptable base coat. Top coats the same procedure. Overall I still prefer an oil base top coat as it has a longer flash over time so you can go back and smooth out brush strokes. Latex based paints have come a very long way and the VOC loads are lower. Great if you don't work in a ventilated area. Practice is most important. A poor quality paint finish can ruin your best efforts. You don't want any model to look like it was painted with a broom.

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