Ryland Craze

To make the columns I marked the ends with a pencil.  I used a round file to create the transition from the square ends to the round middles.  I used a flat file to knock off the edges.  I used 150 grit sandpaper to round the columns.
 

I'm making progress.  I added another deck.   I noticed that I placed the columns inline with each deck with the first columns, the kit shows the columns next to the center features.  I haven't decided if I want to move them of leave them as is and call it a personalization.
 

 

I assembled the first two decks.  I had to revise the notch in the bracket frames (item 40) to make them fit. 
 
I started to think about how I might treat the ends of for the interior strips.  There are some gaps to fill where the cross beams attach to the frame.

While my finger is healing, the first thing I could do was use a mouse.  I scanned some of the laser cut plywood parts and created CAD drawings that I can use to cut walnut veneer for the pieces – such as the stand.  Unfortunately, my hobby CNC machine is down and they don’t make the control board for it anymore; fortunately, Sainsmart has very good customer support and they found one at a distributor.  
 
I’ve been gaging my finger recovery by doing some model ship building tasks.
 
I assembled the grating and glued the seams with a Glue Looper tip (fits Exacto handle).  The Glue Looper has a small loop that you dip in thin CA glue and apply it to a seam; it uses capillary action to draw the glue from the tip into the seam.  It works great.  The tip is small enough to fit into each square of the grid.

I scanned a frame piece before I started the kit.  I traced the frame scan, scaled the drawing, and created structure components to emulate similar designs in other logs.  I cut some walnut laminate with an inexpensive CNC machine to test my process and the see how the pieces fit.  I applied stain and finish to some of the pieces to see how the walnut will look.  I placed the pieces on the frame to check the how they will work (I didn’t fit the pieces).  I created another file to cut another set of walnut laminate pieces plus a pair of the one-piece frame laminate; unfortunately, my CNC machine stopped working (part on order).  I also dislocated a finger so I can’t use an Exacto knife for a while.
 
I have a bunch of walnut laminate so I plan on cutting walnut laminate for more of the laser cut plywood pieces. 

I liked how the planks on the base of the frame turned out so I did the same thing for the decks.  I decided to do all the decks at one time to so all the decks would look the same.  I checked the width of each stock piece I used because the there are several pieces that have a slightly larger width.  I applied stain to the 1x3 stock, when dry I cut the pieces to length.  The parts list specs 90mm but I cut them to 91mm.  I applied a single coat of Wipe-On poly (clear satin), I don’t want to make it too shiny. 
 

I’m test fitting the bottom deck and it fit pretty well.  I’ll attach it after I apply veneer to the mast base.
 

 

To make the deck columns I used a round file to make the transition from the square end to the round column.  I tried using my micro lathe to turn the column but the stock is too small for the lathe (and centering the stock in the lathe was hard), I managed to knock the corners off but I could only process about half the column, I turned it around and knocked the corners off the other half to prepare it for sanding.  I used 150 grit sandpaper to shape the column by rotating it in a sandpaper wrap.  
 

 

The build starts with a temporary base, the instruction points out not to glue the keel to the temporary base.  Looking through the instructions, you eventually cut the hull from frame tabs glued to the temporary base.
 
I applied stain to the 2x5 mm stock to get uneven coloring before I cut and glue the floor pieces to bottom of the hull.  The last floor plank on each side needs to be trimmed to fit; I needed a 3mm wide piece so I set my plane to 3mm and planed the 2x5 mm planks to 2x3 mm (it is nice to have the right tool for the job).
 
I’ve noticed in other logs that some create the look of a structure on first frame.  I plan on emulating what md1400cs did in his build log.  I have some walnut veneer and a hobby CNC machine so I scanned a frame piece to start the process to create the structure pieces. (it will be a side project to practice working with my CNC machine).  I wonder if the structure detail will be seen when the hull is completed.
 

On my last post I said I would be getting back to my Frigate Diana, but I found myself continuing to work on the Santisima Trinadad.  I completed the planking on the exterior of the hull, painted the gun port hatches, added the cap rail and secured the cannons on the top deck.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Painting the gun ports was a challenge given their size.  They are about 10mm in width.  The hinges are slightly wider than 1mm and the rabbet is less than a mm.  With my eyesight it was all done under a 3x magnifying glass.  
 
In an earlier post I discussed my concern with not pinning the cannons on the lower decks, I ultimately chose not to as I didn't want the cannon barrels protruding before I sanded the exterior of the hull and now I do not have access to pin them.  I will do my best to secure them to the deck with some clear PVA glue.  The four cannons that are mounted on the upper deck are pinned to help secure them to the deck.  
 
Next up is the adding the ladders to each side of the hull.  These will be made up of 76 pieces that range in size from 6 to 18 mm in length.  My Ultimation tools were a huge help in cutting those small parts to right lengths.  I used the chopper on the longer pieces, but on the really small ones I used the Repeater with the sander to get the lengths precise and consistent.  
 
Life continues to be busy away from the shipyard, but I will get in to work when I can.  I will say again that my intention is to get back to my Frigate Diana, but who knows which model I will feel like working on when I find a little time to work.  
 

I have added the the pin racks to the upper deck and stained the inside of the gunwales.  This was pretty straight forward.   I need to use a small square file to open up the holes for the pin rack posts to extend down to the next deck.
 

 

 
I am now at the stage where I need to cut the model from the building board, so I have started assembling the display cradle.  I am going to paint it black after a coat of shellac as sealer.  There has been some interesting discussion about using shellac as a sealer.  I have had great luck using schellac, but the water based sealer that Vaddoc suggested looks interesting.  I use a coat of shellac and then sand with 600 grit sandpaper.  
 

 
I used the cutoff tool on my Dremel and then the disc sander on the Dremel to smootout the excess material left on the frame.   
 
 
Now on the the planking.  There are several bands on the ship that are planked with 4mm x 4mm material.  The balance is planked with 2 x 5 mm lime wood and Sapelli.
 
The Ultimation Slicer will cut through the 4mm material, but is is pushing its limits and I don't get a nice clean cut on material that think.  When I bought the Ultimation tools I purchased the Repetter for the Sander.  I wasn't sure how much I would use it when I bought it, but I just used it to get the 4x4 mm planking material trimmed to length.  I couldn't be happier with the results.   
 

 
I would cut the material to a near net shape with a small saw and then use the Repeater to get the length just right. If anyone has any questions about the Repeater, please reach out.  
 
Thanks.

Welcome to MSW, sir. One can see pretty much instantly that this is not your first "rodeo", even if this is on a much smaller scale that what you did before. As someone already mentioned, you are going to do just fine here.

Thanks Jim, this is a new hobby as I have gotten older and out of shape I can't do the more physical things I use to do. As I said in my intro I want to make a series of models of the sloop I helped build in the 1970s and this is good practice for that. I am debating whether to build the Model Shipways Lobster Smack or jump right in to working on the Gary Thomas. The kit teaches mold fairing and carvel planking which I have done full scale. 
I guess I will decide when I am nearer to completing the pram.

The directions say to drill a hole in the inwale then saw a slot for the chain plate. I drilled two holes then ground down an old blade and worked the wood out with it.

 
The impromptu saw worked ok.
 
I modified the placement of the mast step by notching the front to set better on the frame.

 
I placed the rudder gudgeon pad not where the marks are but where the it is shown in the instructions. It's lower on the transom for better leverage.  I see I forgot to fine sand it! 

More progress on the deck planking today.  She is starting to look like a wood ship.  Thanks to those that have gone before me for the tip about planking the passageways. Loving the process.  Does anybody know what the cut outs along the side of the deck are for?  I marked them in red. I see nothing in the plans that line up. If they are necessary, I will retain them before decking to the outer hull. Thanks. 
 
 

Well done Chris for re-visiting this model she looks splendid.
.... and well done James for the great artistry  in the paintwork and finish.
 
My order for the 1:48 scale version will be going in.
 
B.E.

That hair straightener looks the ticket. I will look for one in the thrift stores. 
Thanks 

Hey J, your pram is looking good. I use a number of different ways to heat the wood depending on what size or how much bend. One thing  I picked up for $2 at the thrift store is a ladies hair straightener. It has a temperature dial on it. I just moisten the wood, not soak it then pull it through a few times.
 

 
most of the time I leave it hanging where it is and move the wood down to it.

Making slow progress on the inside of the pram. I installed the main frames perpendicular to the centerline by eye which I didn't like. So when I started on the seat and thwart frames I checked for square by measuring from the bow and stern transoms. As it turned out the eye was pretty good.
I trimmed the transoms and filed the slot in the stern. I had a 3/8ths rattail file but it looked to big. I happen to have a 7/32nd (5.6mm) chain saw file that is the same size as the laser mark on the transom.

 
I checked the thwarts to make sure the supports were the correct height. I went ahead and put three supports under the stern sheets you can see it in the back ground. I don't know how many are in the design if i were building the prototype that's what I would do.
You can see I am gluing in the floor board cleats and am trying different ways of bending the wood. I bent the planks by soaking them in hot water for a short time then forming them and letting them dry. You can see the results of using my heat gun just to the upper left corner of the 1-2-3 block on the inwale. This time I tried putting the floor board cleats in boiling water then bending and letting them dry. I then remembered I had a Top Flite heat sealing iron so I tried that, the verdict is still out on that one.
The heat gun is very hot, a blow-dryer is not hot enough, the heat sealing iron may not heat up enough. I will continue to experiment.

The soft white metal body parts will require a lot of prep work for a proper fit and finish. The chassis rests inside the body parts with no major issues. Soon I will need to temporarily fasten the chassis to a flat surface spaced at the proper height so the suspension components can be built in a way that keeps everything square, in alignment, and ride height is correct while all four tires/wheels touch the surface. 

Something to keep in mind…the melting temperature of the MFH white metal is lower than 300 degrees. Something closer to 200 degrees but I cannot recall exactly. The soldering iron cannot be left in one place too long or it WILL melt the white metal. I found out the hard way but was able to repair the damage. Working with these tiny parts makes the task lots tougher to do.

I have started in on the cap rails.
 

Spending a week to take care of chores around the home, just got back to work on the model. Getting the chassis parts prepped and soldered together, test fitting the engine to the chassis. It’s that crazy looking cocked angle the engine sits inside the chassis. I’ve only ever seen that design on the Lancia and the Ferrari D50’s.

I need an assistant.  He he is, 😂  Donkey. I think he is the perfect A .. to be my Assistant lol.
I reach a point in Rodney's notes, oh my. Apparently mistakes have been made. He followed the instructions, the plan is different from the instructions.  We need 8 gun ports we only got 7. The way the plan tell you to put the deadeyes  the cannons will blow the shrouds off. I think it was at this point that he stoped, there is a lot of torn pages in his book , and references to a web site that I have to go to latter.
I found  some notes it possible that he started this model in 2014 / 5, hard to say. But in his notes the guy he was following abandon the plan  at this point as well and build it his way. And it looks good. Mine will be different  but it will work. Now I just got to put it all together. At least I don't have to stop, I be rigging and adding to my Surprise jar in no time. Lol


Donkey  let's me know what he thinks of the plans and instructions 😉. I would hate to spend this kind of money on a model to have such bad information  wow. But where the is a will there is a way I guess.

We are goingto leave the lids alone, shifting the lines slightly to avoid the gun ports we will be fine.


 So now I going to fix the white, then attach the chains for the deadeyes. The instructions  says to attach the chains to the upper whaler. Rodney has them in between  the whalers mine will be at the bottom whaler like the plan says lol.

Ok, with that roller-coaster day I am very glad I have a plan and going forward 😀. MSW/NRG will have its first Astrolabe 1812 log marked  finished, just a matter of time. But the instructions are so bad you may not see another lol.
Good night my friends, I hear mooing comeing  from the hold. Lol 😆 🤣 
Bob M.
 
 

Finally, here is the video of the engine running. It does actually sound a lot smoother than is heard here, and you get an idea of that when I rotate the engine whilst running.
 
 
 
Conclusion
I was a little concerned that this engine would be very close to the V8 engine that I reviewed a few months ago, but I needn't have worried. The L4 is a totally different beast, and I don't just mean it has 4 less cylinders. This is an easy model to build and setup. I think it took me about 4hrs in total, including a refreshment break! Parts quality is absolutely superb, with everything fitting with total precision. This would be ideal as an introduction to model engine building, even with the caveats I mentioned regarding the instruction manual anomalies. If you are looking to start your collection, or just want something to sit on your executive desk, then definitely consider this kit!
 
 
My sincere thanks to EngineDIY for the opportunity to build this engine here on MSW. To purchase directly, click the link at the top of the article.
 

 

OK, I finally have the 33 (and a bit) foot Royal/Admirals barge/shallop in stock. This main file went through a lot of changes before I was happy with the final print, so now, compared to the first file, this should be a lot easier to add the pear parts.
 
64th scale – length 158.5mm 48th scale – length 211.3mm  
33′ Royal/Admiral’s Barge – VANGUARD MODELS
 
All 3-d printed boats:
https://vanguardmodels.co.uk/?post_type=product&p=17419&preview=true
 
Here are some pics of the 48th scale version that Jim (Hatch) has just completed, he has done a great job! For this one, it will be all about the painting..
 
The base and cradles are included with this one (2mm Pear), as I thought some may want it as a standalone model, and those that would like if for their model ship can use the cradles only if they wish.