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Cleat

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    Minnesota, US

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  1. I looked at the dust on my first boat kit (dust collector) and decided to look into cutting plexiglass, I'll have to get some and try cutting it. I'll be using a dry cleaning bag to cover my riverboat until my garage becomes warm enough to see how plexiglass works. I'm checking out build logs for the Bluenose kit (or something similar) and cross-section kits for my next project.
  2. A couple favorite tools included Rockler’s silicone micro glue applicators and the Gluelooper CA glue applicator. I haven’t mastered tweezers yet but I got a lot of practice. I used Minwax Wipe-On Ploy on all of the wood, the number of coats depended on how much shine I wanted on the piece. I had built a small tools chest a few years ago (my best woodworking project). Here are a few more pictures:
  3. I am proud to finish my King of the Mississippi riverboat. A picture, a parts list, and minimal instruction required me to figure out how to do things I haven’t done before – problem solving is a good thing. I want to thank the others who made build logs and those who answered my questions in this log. I repeatedly referenced other build logs. I learned a lot and want to try another kit next fall. The build was a challenge for me, I enjoyed most of it but there was frustration (there was some a lot of swearing). When I built the spiral staircase, I knew I could overcome anything in the build. It felt good when I figured out how to complete a task (a few beers might have helped with the problem solving and feeling good). I’ll build a stand for it when my garage becomes available. Now I’m wondering how to deal with dust, the riverboat is moving into its dust collection era; I might look into a Plexiglass container but that isn’t a priority.
  4. I was not looking forward to the gangway rigging. I don’t know how to tie rigging knots; I’ve seen some fancy knots in various pictures on the forum but they are beyond my skill. I looked into one and it resembled a fishing knot but it was too difficult to tie on a small scale so I went with simple knots and CA glue to accomplish this task. I tied a simple overhand knot and tried to lasso the groves in a block but that was too hard. I placed thread in the grove on one side and applied thin CA glue. When the glue set, I tied an overhand knot on the other side and applied thin CA glue. I extended the two threads and applied CA glue at the ends of the two threads to make it easier to tie a knot later. I looped the thread around a mast and wrapped it around the thread between the block and mast and applied CA glue to hold it in place. I tied a half hitch to complete installation. I found pictures in Bob Fraser's log (thread #68) to be very helpful (mast pictures). I found it difficult to work the rigging while the mast and gangway moved around. Parts of the routing didn’t make sense; I wasn’t sure where some lines ended. Working with 0.15 mm rigging and sewing thread required a level of precision I lack. The gangway ended up much higher than it should, I had adjusted the lines to get the gangway to the proper height but between sorting out the spaghetti of lines and taking up slack it had moved. I was focused on getting the knots tied and didn’t notice the change. After installing the rigging, I have a better idea how it works. I determined which lines control the gangway height and I think I have enough line to fix it. The gangway chains are unequal (I had adjusted them once already) so I have more to do.
  5. I installed the lower deck railings; the small clothes pins were the right size. I held off on these to leave access to rigging tie downs. I had applied finish to the long walnut stock and cut it to length so I didn’t want to soak the railings to bend them; I have a wood burner with a disk tip that I used to bend the wood with heat only. I made 10 mm railing posts on the paddle wheel deck. I installed the beads on top of the posts like the others I had made. I installed a short pin in the bottom of the posts, marked the deck, and drilled slightly oversized holes for the pins (to give me a bit of adjustment). Gluing the posts pinned to the deck made a solid attachment (I wish I had done that for the posts on the top deck). I'm making progress. I see I need to reapply one of the white triangle supports. I had to use a couple deck columns for the diagonal stern columns because I ran out of material of the proper length (I made too many deck columns), I should have installed the diagonals before cutting material for the upper decks.
  6. I used a drop of CA glue on the end of the line and cut it at an angle to make a point (as suggested). That technique worked fine to get the line through the block. I used dark brown sewing thread instead of the wire. I tie fishing knots to lures all the time but trying to tie sewing thread is hard. I also had a hard time tying the cotton thread for the smoke stack lines, a slip knot doesn't work on that material when trying to take up slack. I got practice working with the block on the pennant mast but the bow rigging will be a challenge.
  7. Hindsight Tip Do the rigging before installing the railings on the top deck. I've never worked with rigging before so I put it off. I bumped several railings off the deck when installing the smoke stack lines. So now I'm repairing railings (some of them needed adjustments anyway).
  8. Thanks for the link. The thread showed me more about how the blocks work. I didn't know the rigging goes through the hole. I'm not able to thread the rigging through the hole, I need to get some sewing supplies to help me thread the rigging through the tiny hole (even after making the hole bigger). I also broke the wire trying to tighten a practice loop. I think some sewing thread could be used to attach the block to the mast.
  9. I've been trying to figure out how to attach the blocks to the masts. I noticed the block has a hole the size of the wire but I haven't figured out how to use the wire to attach the block to the mast and have room to thread rigging on the block. I also noticed that two blocks (item 207) have two holes in them and I don't know what the extra hole is for.
  10. I got the railings installed. The straight sections went pretty well but I struggled with the curved sections. I made a jig to assembly the straight sections and I eventually figured out a way to assemble the top & bottom wood parts with the metal potion; I prefer to work with railing assemblies rather than building them piece by piece on the deck. Several things did not line up very well at the front, some of my mistakes and compromises can be seen. Attaching the white border on the top deck was tricky. I used a shot glass to help form a piece of white border trim but the material would spring back holding a mild bend. I used two finders to hold a section in place and used a Glu Looper to apply thin CA glue to the seam, then spray the area with activator. The glue would set fairly quick (but not instantly). Hindsight Tip: I wish I left a bit of a lip when I glued the sapelli trim on the state room ceiling (I sanded mine flush with the deck), it would have helped hold the border trim in place.
  11. Ahh, I see how that works. I had been thinking of my experience with pinning the beads on top. I just finished the railings today but I'm sure I'll bump something before I'm done so I'll probably will get as chance to try it.
  12. Thanks, that is a good idea. I did that for the top of the posts to place the bead on top. I learned I couldn't center the hole with consistency and I think aligning a post pin, deck hole, and connect to the railing assembly might be too hard for my accuracy skill. But I think a hole in the post and the deck could create a pin when the glue cures (I'll try that the next time I knock one off).
  13. I played with the various curved railing pieces to find a way for the rear railings to work. I was wondering how to curve the brass railing pieces to match the wooden radius. My first attempt was the curved section on the forward short deck; I formed it to the wood piece, then bent the piece by hand to get it close to a fit (I wasn’t happy with the result). I used the railing jig I made and found it could help form the arch a little easier. I placed the curved wood railing with the straight metal piece in my jig; I pushed the straight metal piece to create an arc and used a piece of wood to help shape it. I used a Glue Looper to apply thin CA glue to each seem and sprayed the area with an activator to cure the connection. I added the second curved wood railing and glued it with the Glue Looper. I later added a short piece to the white railing to complete the assembly. One of the things I’m discovering is how light the wood glue bonds to the deck, my deck has many thin layers of finish making it a polished surface and it is only now that I realize I need to find a way to rough up the surface for a 3mm square post. I’ve knocked off many posts/rail assemblies via accidental touches (I swore each time).
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