Ryland Craze

Moving along nicely. 
 

 

 

Waiting for the planks to dry. Some areas are 'meh, close enough'.  
 

 

 

I didn't get a picture of the fill pieces added. Under the center plank the knee and the transom are filled to the thickness of the bottom planks. It turned out well. 
 

Stern and bow transoms ready to go. The stern transom beveling was to short in the middle if the knee was higher (lower as its upside down) it would be better. The height is the thickness of the bottom planks. 
 
Bending the bottom planks is easy with a cup of room temp water and an acid brush to soak the plank. Soaked and then bent gently in my fingers to the curve needed. Gently working and stretching the plank in to the curve. Twisting and gently working the wood loose so it will bend. Resoaking helps. Its less than a minute to do, none of them have been done with hot water. I would think it would make a wet noodle of wood that hot and soaked. The soak and bend keeps the shape and doesn't go back when held and dried. 
 

 

 

Bow and stern transoms. The bevel was handy as described to bevel the stern transom. Knowing what I know as I write this, the stern knee needs to be a tad above the top (bottom) of the stern. I had to add a little to the stern to make it work better. 
 
The instructions say the rear stern in 2 parts has exactly 1/8 overlay. The small marks kind of make you think they should line up. It might make the stern transom to short if glued in place there. Time will tell if I made the right location to glue it. 
 
The building form was easy enough. I securely glued the bow support. The middle pieces are a tight fit. The stern is not glued. 
 
 

 

 

 

Multiple injuries after ship tips over at Edinburgh dockyard - BBC News

Hi Glenn, Like everything Chucks makes, take your time and the results speak for themselves.
 
Nope not even close. I've been constantly looking at yours and Mikes logs to assist me. Questions are sure to follow.
 
This will be a challenging chapter but a whole lot of fun.
 
Thanks for all the likes too!

Thanks all for the likes and for looking in.
 
Sanding and filling continued for a bit longer.  The polyurethane did harden up the balsa and it sanded well.  I got to the point where I was ready for a trial coat of primer.

Smearing the filler over the balsa block did a pretty good job of hiding the grain once I sanded again. 

Here, I've done more work on the joints between the planks and filler blocks.  I've also glued on the stem, and added a surround for the centerboard.  This isn't in the plans and may have nothing to do with reality, but it seemed like a good idea at the time.  It's supposed to represent the bottom of the centerboard trunk.

I glued in the centerboard and sprayed the final (I hope) coats of primer. 


I am pretty pleased with the hull.  It is better than the planked hulls I've done, admittedly not a high bar to clear.  I may need to touch up a few spots with filler before top coating.
 
I also made up mounting pins and a temporary base, to facilitate marking the waterline.



Next up: painting the hull, or planking the deck.  I need to think about which to do first.

Hi all, I've had a pretty smooth experience building the frame, but the gunwale strips are proving a little difficult at the stem and transom. I've still got some pretty good spring strength in the strips and I've actually snapped the stem and had to re-glue it trying to try fit the parts together at the bow. Any tips and tricks for getting the bow and stern together? I think the stern will go together pretty easily, but I need to trim the strips to get a better fit and I might need to fill some gaps.
 
Also, is there a discussion about different glues elsewhere that you might point me to? I've been using wood glue just out of habit with other projects and because a fuss with things a bit before setting, but I could see CA glue being useful.

Head to toe size comparison with the Winnie…
 
Greg you are a madman to build her at 1/4” scale.  You have my utmost respect at that size.  I couldnt even imagine it.
 

Chuck, thanks for the quick response and it was what I assumed.  And I fully expected that this will be a pricy project.  There's just too much quality material and work here for it not to be - but it's well deserved!   I have a couple of projects in mind first to gain skills (one being your Confederacy), and in the meantime I'll be "saving up" for this!  😀
 
Thanks!

Yes it will be sold just like the Winnie in Chapter sets.   There are far too many parts to make a complete kit all at once.   The framing that you see below (once its completed)  will comprise the first two chapters.   Although its a lot of parts still and I may break that into three chapter sets.   
 
Then others will follow.  Keep in mind that because of its size and complexity this will not be a cheap project.   Its almost the exact same size as the Vanguard Indy kit.  She is a big girl.   But this has so many more parts so you can get an idea of where this project may end up cost-wise.  Figure in the range of "2 large".  I wont know how much until its all done so its impossible for me to put a number on it....but just figure what it costs for the Indy and add a little bit more.  I say this because I dont want anyone to start this project and be surprised by the cost as it continues.   
 
I am quite the terrible salesperson...but I am just being up front with you guys.  This isnt being made in China so its going to be expensive to manufacture.  Its not a project that can be rushed.   So buying chapter sets over time is the best way to go.
 

 
 

Hi  Chuck, this is all amazing work.  Do you plan to offer this kit in stages or batches as it were, so if one wanted to build it navy board style, it could be done without having to get all the mast and rigging parts?

Yes and I hand worked it to clean it up a bit and sharpen some details.   But these are 3D printed.
 
Chuck

They will do the trick.   You guys will be so surprised at so small these are even for 3/8" scale.  The model is a big girl however at nearly the same length as the Winnie.  Just a wee bit shorter.  But very narrow at the stern which gives it that beautiful elegant shape.

All of the masters look beautiful, Chuck.  As an owner of a set of Winchelsea castings, I am confident that the Speedwell set will be gorgeous.

Thank You...
 
With the framing almost completed I was able to finalize all of the master carvings.  I did the final prep work for casting.   They will be sent off to be cast in a light tan like the Winnie carvings.   I hope they can get some sets to me soon.
 
Here is a look at the quarter badges.  They are quite small actually.  I will let my casting guys alter these because there are some areas that wont cast well.  For example under arms of those tiny reclining figures.   Those open areas will need to filled in order to cast these.   
 

 
 

Only have brown mara 120 at the moment.  But I could have laid this up tighter.  sorry its upside down but that the only way the calipers would stay upright.  I think the thread you are using is not actually the correct dia…for mara 120.  Because I didnt even lay this up that tightly.  The calipers are barely open at all.  
 
but either way….you are making beautiful rope.  Glad you are enjoying the process.
 

 

Post Twelve.
 
Hull fairing - Day 0ne
Considering this is one of my least favourite aspects of ship modelling, the day went well.
The support board held the hull securely, and the ‘Mouse’ sander performed well.

0580
I started with the hull upright and sanded the topsides down to gundeck level.
I started with vertical strokes  on the  gunport side timbers, and followed on using a long sanding stick along the hull.

0577

0578
The hull was then inverted and the ‘mouse’ brought into play. I used P80 sanding sheets.
I am grateful to Jim and Chris for the heads up on this little tool.

0584

0583
This is the state after around three hours work.
 
Time now to test the plank lay.

0587
The 1mm thick lime strips bend easily around the bow without any need for pre-bending, but I will pre-bend when I start planking to take the resistance out of the wood.
 
I am particularly interested in the run of the planks up to the lower transom.

0588
To this end a test plank is pre-bent using hot water and heat.

0590

0591

0592

0593

0594

0595
Looking ok so far, I hate to see any hint of a sharp angle in the plank runs in this area, they should have a smooth and even curve.
 
That’s enough for one day, I’ll look at it again tomorrow with a fresh eye.
 
B.E.
24/03/23

Thank you Kevin, and Pavel.
@ Kevin - I think 'only slightly ahead' is slightly understating it. 😁
@ Pavel - Thankyou for looking in on my build.👍
 
Post Eleven
 
Fairing the Hull.
This is such a big beast, I couldn’t quite decide the best way to approach the fairing business.
Not easy to hold while fairing, altho’ holding at angles during the process is almost a certainty.
 
I finally decided that having the hull inverted was the best approach, so I knocked up a simple jig to hold it inverted.

0569
This consists of nothing more than styrene packing material cut to fit snuggly inside the hull and hold it clear of the base during the process.

0570
The packing should protect the delicate bulkhead extensions.

0571
Battens were fitted to the board to hold the hull in place during the sanding.
This arrangement will also double up for the planking and coppering of the hull.

0572
All the necessary stuff is assembled, but I won’t be doing the fairing in my workroom, too much dust.
I need to wait for a quiet, mild day, without the gusting winds we have at present. The forecast for these ‘ere parts doesn’t look that brilliant over the next few days, so I may return to the small boatyard and Medway.
 
B.E.
23/03/23
 

The 'Mouse ' proved very useful on this very large hull, I found it lightweight, quite controllable, and unlikely to unintentionally over fair unless you really worked at it.
On smaller hulls, I wouldn't bother, a case of courses for horses.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.
 
 

Looks really nice B.E. that's quite a bend but you've got a nice run. 
 

I've started on the main rails. As you can see there are multiple pieces and layers. The cuts were perfect and they went together very well.
 
 

Once assembled the inboard side needed to be sanded from 5/32" at the timberhead to 5/64" at the forward end. The one on the left has been sanded to size and the one on the right has not been sanded yet.

Here the headrail has been placed just to see how it looks. 

Congrats on a nice result. Leathering the oars will be the icing on the cake.