Ryland Craze

There be anchors here. Of all the unique features on this vessel the fact it carries both stocked and stockless anchors each on their own chain is very cool to model. I also started on the ultra fine stack rigging.

Welcome aboard!

Welcome to MSW. There are many build logs for sternwheelers and working riverboats. There is a search function on the home page and using it makes it easy to locate them. Glad to have you aboard. 

Built models for many years when I was younger, but I've been away from the hobby for a long time.
I never built ship models before, but I have always loved ships, aircraft, anything mechanical. Air Force veteran (aircraft mechanic), recently retired from GE Aviation, where I taught jet engine mechanics. I am a deacon in the Episcopal Church and since retiring I have been serving as a chaplain for the Seamen's Church Institute. In that capacity I have been working with the towboat crews along the Ohio River. So, I am especially interested in riverboats. The skill level shown here has been awesome, I hope you can put up with an older beginner as I try to build some acceptable models.

Log #18: Securing the Model
I am waiting on getting some new magnification this week to help with the cutting of the knee of the head. So in the meantime I am continuing work on the structure of the model.
 
The last piece of work that needs to be done before the structure is ready to assemble is the hardware for securing the model to its base. I came up with a relatively simple solution for this. Frist I marked the location for holes to be drilled in the bottom of the bulkhead and where the slots for the nuts would need to be cut out. These needed to be sufficiently high so the nuts do not stick out wider than the bulkheads at that point, but also not so high that the screw has sufficient clearance to allow for the supports and the thickness of the base.
 
You may also notice that I thinned the stern of the center bulkhead as this is easier to do now than later. It may need a little more adjustment later, but the bulk of the material has been removed.

I then carefully cut the slots with chisels a little wider than necessary to allow for some movement of the bolts to make sure the threads align. I drilled the holes with a pin vice starting with a very small drill bit and slowly increasing the size. As it is hard to drill perfectly straight, the last little bit had to be widened with a round file to make sure that the holes were centered and straight. I also found that clamps on either side of the bulkhead helped while drilling to prevent the drill bit accidentally tearing out the sides of the hole.

I then used some epoxy to secure the bolts in place making sure the screw could freely turn in them. Once the epoxy was dry I covered the whole area with a thick sawdust and wood glue mix to make sure all the gaps were filled. I may strengthen this area further once all the bulkheads are in place.

With the bolts in place I used a marker to darken the sides of all the bulkheads. This will allow me to better judge how much I have fared them when it comes time to do that. So here is the current state of affairs. Next step is to finish the keel / knee of the head and secure them to the center bulkhead.

Your thoughts about the civil servant car are humorous. I can imagine how that could influence the way one looks at a particular car for a lifetime.
I like your analysis of the thinner to paint/pigment ratio and agree the leveling thinner does just that, it helps to level the pigment and carrier for a smooth finish.

This particular model is an ocean of black, it's that way on the 1:1 car. With the interior now 90% built and painted (flat black), there is not a whole lot to see. Hopefully the plethora of decals will change that somewhat. if not, I may need to give it a little bit of help with some dry brushing in the cockpit area. But even the real car is very black as the photos I will attach can attest. All that carbon fiber gets replicated with decals from the sheet supplied in the kit.
 
The real car:
 

 
The model at this stage:
 

This is Tamiya lacquer, LP1 mixed 50-50 with Leveling Thinner 400 for the first three coats. For the last coat, I add more Leveling Thinner 400 to the 50-50 mix, so that it's more like a 60-40 mix, 60% being Leveling thinner. That's where the glass smooth finish comes from, that very last highly reduced coat.

Hello,
today I found some time to work at the shipyard and build the mast step. There are some knees left to build, but tomorrow is also a day.


And here he is fitted in. There is a little gab to the left, but the knees will cover it later.


Only the outer deck beams are fast at the moment. I needed a high fore the mast fish, who will follow next. With the beams I made a short cut with there ends. You would't see that later.

Thanks everyone for the very kind and appreciated likes and comments.  I think I am in a better place than I was preop, and once I catch up on 6 weeks of my regular job, will be back in the workshop more regularly.  I plan to get back to work on the long boat and start Echo (I haven't forgotten that this is a model ship website). In the interim, I'm almost done with the P51.  I had a little setback - I experimented with some panel line wash and don't 100% like the effect.  I'm trying to decide whether to reprime and paint, or just finish the model so I can start from the beginning on something that won't feel like a recovery project.

The Halberstadt is a beauty, Dave. Given the circumstances it was build under, it´s nearly unbelievable how great it turned out. I wish you the very best for your recovery.

Cheers Rob

very nicely done Halberstadt. She's a beauty. Good to read your recovery is proceeding well.

Congratulations on your recovery Dave. Great to see the Halberstadt finished. You did a great job, it looks beautiful.
alan

Well done, Dave!

Congratulations Dave on finishing your Halberstadt. A fine job indeed. Happy to hear you’re doing better!

I had my surgery and when I started feeling better started work back on the Halberstadt.  I was already a little frustrated with it, which was why after I ran into problems with the decals on the upper wing I didn't just strip them and order new ones, so I didn't feel to bad working on it while not at my best.  The spinal surgery was very successful, so my left hand and forearm are back to 100% for the first time in two years.  Trying to rig a biplane while wearing a cervical collar is not something I recommend, but I did get a lot of peace when I was able to get down into my workshop again.  Not my best work, but the whole point is to have fun, and it was really helpful with the rest of my recovery.  I'm working on a Tamiya p-51 that my son had barely started prior to giving up building.  It was started under the same recovery conditions with the same goal of keeping me sane.  He had purchased decals for the P-51C Excalibur III in the NASM, so I'm working on that plane.  I disassembled what he had started so I could use the Eduard photo etch set.  I don't plan a build log for it.

The Revell 55 Chevy Convertible Indy 500 Pace Car is one of three model cars I plan to complete in time for the upcoming Southlandz 2025 Spring Model Car Show, June 7, 2025.
I may be biting off more than I can chew in this short time span, but we'll see what happens together.

Thank you. I am so glad I found this hobby.

Yes, already received the credit
 
 

I assume since you have a selfie that you’ll be sending that to Model Expo to get a credit towards a future purchase. 

I only have photos of this build as it was completed rather quickly.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

All the  best  bro.
 
OC.

I will enter 3 models in the upcoming Pelicon 2025 IPMS show coming up April 26, 2025. of course, the Porsche Carrera GT is one of the three to be entered along with two motorcycles:
 
1:12 Tamiya Kawasaki Ninja H2
 

 
1:12 Honda RC166 Grand Prix
 

Hello all.

Making some progress on planking the hold.

Started off one the cutaway side, planking just over the edge then trimming and sanding back.


Then repeated the same basic process on the other side up to the bottom edge of the slots for the first set of deck beams. Also used the various templates to mark out the position of the inner ribs as well as the base for the main mast.



And finally made a start on fitting the inner ribs.




Thanks