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captain_hook

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Everything posted by captain_hook

  1. Thank you very much for the nice words. I finished the mast and the bowsprit and dry-fitted them on the ship. It is curious to see such a large mast on the small hull.
  2. That is the actual status of the model. I decided the do the mast, the boom etc. first before I start to treenail the deck and the cabin. That will be hours of fun....
  3. Two weeks ago i started planking the main deck. I mostly used the layout proposed by the plan, only some minor addons. The companionway, hatch and light are fitted inside the deck planking. I decided to skip the front hatch because i will add a windlass later and need the space for that.
  4. For the deck I started with the cabin front and the step. I prepared the parts, drilled the holes for the treenails (0,6 mm) and inserted them before gluing the parts in place.
  5. The ship then needed some color. I started to give some areas several coats of thinned color. For the red I used a mixture of 66% Tamiya XF-7 red and 33% vallejo dark vermillion red. In my opinion the tamiya is the best (red) acrylic colour available but covers bad even after several coats. But mixed with vallejo it covers well after two or three coats.
  6. Long Time has passed since my last update due to the endless summer this year. I was a bit lazy with the build log, so I will post some updates. The sweep ports were done with a micro-saw-blade and a needle file for finish.
  7. Hello everyone, may anyone help me please. I’m going to build a 1/48 scale british revenue cutter and having trouble to identify the correct size of a 3-pounder gun. Most scale guns seem to be oversized. I remember a 3-pounder gun having a gun barrel length of about 5‘ , is that correct? That would be about 30mm for the correct size of a scale 3-pounder barrel in 1/48 scale - equal to a 6-pounder gun barrel in 1/64 scale.
  8. The stem part is not fixed yet, I wait with that until second planking is finished. Cut the round holes of the sweep,ports in both sides. Used a 1,5mm drill to drill basic holes and then finished the holes with a needle file to prevent the wood from breaking and to secure the holes are in the middle of the chaulking. Don’t know if I should also cut the spikes of the sweep ports because I‘m afraid the boxwood will split or break. Put on a coat of clear vanish to protect the wood. As I‘m going to paint the area below the wale flat white as suggested in the manual I will use walnut supplied in the kit for the second planking to save boxwood for the deck. Will start with second planking next weekend. BTW. Sorry for the iron in the background of the picture.
  9. Not much progress so far. Did some rebuilding because I was not satisfied with the outcome. I lowered the cabin sides so they look more like the plan. Made the openings for the water more look like the ones in the plan. Will cut the sweep ports next, still a little afraid of that. Sorry for the bad image quality, sun was drowning already, don’t realized the time.
  10. Inner gundeck planking is complete. Next step will be cutting the sweep ports. I have to first think about the best way to cut that tiny holes into the ship. Maybe I will prepare another stainless steel template. To be continued next weekend.
  11. Started to plank the inner side of the gundeck. I may cut the sweep ports prior to planking the rest of the ship. So if the planking is damaged I have to redo the section or to paint the outside like proposed by the manual. To cut the scuppers I first marked the positions of the scuppers on the strip, made a template for the scupper out of stainless steel (0.5 mm), fixed that template onto the strip with two clamps and then cut the scupper with a needle file within the scupper-template. Dry-fit looked not to bad.
  12. Then glued the strake in place followed by the wale. Sanded the fashion piece, so the lower edge of the fashion piece is flush with the wale.
  13. Next update: I prepared the strake running above the wale. I cut the holes for the water first into and test-fitted the strake on the hull. Transfered the position via pencil on the hull and cut the holes into the basswood.
  14. I started second planking today - finally. I used a pencil to simulate chalking between the small planks, since I still plan to leave the gundeck planking natural boxwood. Hope I don‘t mess it up in the end and have to paint the planks yellow. To be continued next weekend 😀
  15. Quite some time has passed since my last Update. So busy with my professional self-employment. Anyway, I thought some time about the cabin windows, wasn‘t pleased with the kit-supplied solution. So I decided to add a fifth window - a rectangle one - in the middle of the inner ones. The windows are separated by equal boxwood stripes so the lower edge of the windows stay parallel to the lower edge of the plank running at the bottom of the cabin.
  16. I ordered several times from Jason at Crown Timberyard, each times great quality. But have heard that castello from wood project source is of good quality as well. I have looked for a castello source here in germany and even in the rest of Europe but haven't found any yet. There are several sources for swiss pear but none for castello :-(
  17. The first planking is done. Took me some time to get back to the AVS due to the almost one month waiting time for my CT boxwood order to arrive in germany.
  18. I have to move the first planking to next weekend. I bought the HM Brig Supply Kit almost 5 years ago when I was new to the hobby but have left the box in the shelf since then. Two weeks ago I discovered the plywood bulkheads and keel parts had started to warp and I decided to build the skeleton and at least first plank that ship prior to the AVS to prevent the parts from further warping. I will do the 1759 version as shown on the NMM plans. So I had to change some parts and prepare another hatch. Maybe I will start another build log for her but building two ships in parallel is way too much stress, especially when it comes to continue two build logs. Turning back to the AVS...
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