Jump to content

captain_hook

Members
  • Posts

    675
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by captain_hook

  1. Still recovering from the flu but at least managed to attach the buoys to the anchors. Have to tighten the rigging before the assembly will be installed.
  2. Rigged the cathead and test-fitted an anchor before the buoy-rope is attached to it. Only minor steps due to an influenza that knocked me out for some days.
  3. I wonder if you will offer pear or boxwood upgrades for this kit when it will be offered. I‘ve seen your enterprise kit, very beautiful although it seems somehow simplified and the lower decks are skipped. But cherry isn‘t as beautiful and nice to work with as pear and boxwood (just my opinion), so I decided not to look for it in the future.
  4. Thank you for the nice comments and likes. @ASAT: Yes, there is an airborne base in Wiesbaden-Nordenstadt, but I don’t know if it is still active. There are several words for that - Fasching, Fasnacht or Karvenal depending where you live in Germany. It is hard to explain why Germans love to celebrate that. Starting on 11/11 every year it is a mixture of dressing up and some (political incorrect) entertainment and humor. There are meetings in big halls with evening-filling shows and street-parades with dressed up groups and dancers especially at the end of the season.
  5. The last steps ... As Carnival is celebrated in Germany these days spare time is limited. But I made some new anchor buoys templates more scale and have prepared the rigging but haven‘t decided which one I will use. The other ones will be stored for the next project. Will rig them next weekend and then hopefully turn to the final step.
  6. This is very frustrating when things break - especially when it is your first build and you are still in the first stage. But believe me - it may be as important to quickly learn to fix things as to build the model itself because mistakes and flaws will happen all the time - it is a part of the hobby 🤫.
  7. You may drill a little hole into the broken part and the bulkhead and pin the part back into position. As the bulkheads seem to be made of MDF and the upper ends may be supposed to cut off after first and second planking they are only used to give the first planking some shape and support. You can cut off the pin (I.e. a needle) later when the planking is done. Another option is to support the broken parts with a small plywood strip on each side that will be sanded down with the fairing - but you will have to adjust the false deck, so the strips will have some space. Another option is to glue a little wood block behind the broken part and onto the deck that can be removed later (don’t use waterproof white glue).
  8. Thank you for the nice feedback. I did some work on the anchor buoys. Used served .018“ rope to rig the buoys. But the proportions don‘t look right so I may redo the rigging on next weekend. The last steps seem to need the longest time.
  9. There is just another point that might be considered. Kits are always simplified to give even unexperienced builder the chance to complete it, to get a successful experience, to motivate them to buy another kit in the future and to keep production cost as low as possible. So even kits of bigger and more known ships like Victory, Sovereign or Constellation are simplified in some way share issues like gun barrels not to scale, overdimensioned rope, low-quality planking material or even miss some deck items that would be to expensive to make them just for one single kit. But a novice builder - maybe because of lack of information - mostly don’t have a choice but to keep faith into the provided plans and material, believing that everything supplied is just right and well designed to reproduce a miniature of the original. As the builder gets more experienced, he will likely upgrade kits with aftermarket fittings or alternative planking wood or even start scratchbuilding them because the supplied fittings or items simply aren‘t correct, simplified or out of scale. Considered hundreds of hours put into a frigate or ship of the line, it would be a pity for the builder to regret using supplied items or simply followed the plan / instructions after the model is build and experience and knowledge has grown afterwards - especially when a scale model was intended to build (what is likely to be promised by the kit manufacturer).
  10. I studied several pictures and drawings of anchor buoys and experimented with different shapes. As they are originally made of several layers of cork there was either the option to paint the blank ones I made before dark brown or to simulate the layers with thin layers of boxwood. A rather bright wood color will allow to see the different layers rather than a dark colored wood like pear. I made my final templates out of 1mm sheets of boxwood glued on each other with 0.8mm steel wire inside to prevent the assembly to break when brought to shape. Did this with a needle file in my stood drill as I don‘t own a lathe (yet). Now I‘m free to worry about rigging the buoys...
  11. Some work on the anchors. The kit-supplied ones are very small, so I decided to use some bigger ones. Served the ring with .008 rope. Attached the anchor cable with a knot I found in Mondfelds „Ship models“ book. Surrounded two 3/16 double blocks with black card to simulate an iron band and attached two hooks made of eyelets. Made two new templates for anchor buoys that looks more to scale. Although the anchor buoys are made of cork AFAIK I think about leaving them unpainted.
  12. Happy new year!!! I have finished all the running rigging but still have to readjust the tension and to fix loose ends to the belay points. Unfortunately I‘m running out of tan rope and have to wait for another syren order to arrive to resupply my stock until I start to make some rope coils. Will use the time to finish the anchor and buoys and the base.
  13. Thank you for the nice comments and likes. Some more work on the topyard. The rigging is very time-consuming, today I haven‘t done half of the things I wanted to. But the ship is stuffed with different kind of tackles, jigs etc. If you‘re looking for some special kind of rigging - the AVS surely has it...
  14. Upper yard parrel is installed. Served the rope and used .08 brown rope lashing on one side. Three days break and then I will turn on the lower yard. Started this build on 12/30/2016 and hope to finish it before 12/30/2019. And BTW - I wish everyone on MSW a merry christmas. 🎄
  15. Before I will continue with rigging the yards, I took a break to make the swivel guns. The supplied ones are made of Britannia casting and I substituted them with syren 1/4 scale swivel guns. Soldered two metal stripes together to make the holding and drilled a 0.8mm into the gun to add the handle. The handle was made from 2mm brass rod. The kit-supplied gun is shown in the lower left corner. I then test-fitted two guns on the ship.
  16. @Chuck: Thank you very much, but the honour belongs to your fine rope and accessoires 🤗. The footropes on the starboard side are finished too. 168 glove hitch knots per side and this is only a cutter-likely rigged vessel - can‘t imagine if I will keep my mind when it comes to building a two masted ship. Anyway that completes the standing rigging. Will turn on the yards next..
  17. Before I do the starboard side I took a break from knoting glove hitch knots and made the traveller ring from .8mm brass wire. Used a .5mm drill to drill two holes into the ring and soldered two eyebolds to each side to rig the traveller inhauls.
  18. Thank you for all the likes. After finishing the shrouds I started to do the ratlines. Lots of clove hitch knots. The plan calls for .021 rope for the ratlines - instead I used .012 brown syren rope. Else the ratlines would have looked way to heavy. I made a template in Corel Draw for the ratlines including the shrouds to avoid a hourglass effect. Took about 4 hours for the port side.
×
×
  • Create New...