Jump to content

captain_hook

Members
  • Content Count

    436
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About captain_hook

  • Birthday 12/29/1975

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Kriftel, Germany
  • Interests
    Sailing Ships and Great War Biplanes

Recent Profile Visitors

2,600 profile views
  1. Very nice, Jean-Paul. I also had to fix one swivel-gun stock, did all of them analog to the plan but unfortunately one interfered with a deadeye.
  2. Very beautiful! I also vote for marple, but it may be another option to paint the support red to optically separate the boat from the simulated deck and add more warm colour, especially if you will use an acrylic case later.
  3. Thank you Jean-Paul. A lot of preparation, so there is not much to see yet. I will use the cellulose as it looks more subtile. I have to sand a little more and then glue all parts together and taper the assembly.
  4. I made two test-joints with scrap. The one in the back is made with black paper (80 gsm), the one in the front is made with black single-sheet cellulose (maybe 30 gsm) I „borrought“ from my daughters desk. Both look very similar but the one in the front looks more discrete. Nitrocellulose-lacquer was used as varnish.
  5. Thank you barkeater, I agree to that. I have finished all eight keel pieces and dry-fitted them. Got some 80 gsm and 120 gsm black acid free paper and I will try the simulated tarred joints on some scrap parts first. Anyone has a suggestion how to taper the „knee of the head“? I have only seen that on some bigger ships before but these ships’s had a different shape. The Speedwell and the Fair American seem to have a similar KOTH, maybe I should use them for reference.
  6. Thank you for the nice comments and the likes. The original kit supplied a simple 2-part keel for the Badger as it is supposed to be painted later. The NMM-plan shows a more complex multi-piece keel and I’m going to prepare both options to choose the final one later and gain more experience for future builds. For the multi-piece solution I first printed all parts on adhesive paper and glued them on 7/32“ boxwood sheets. Then roughly cut the parts with a scroll-saw and sanded them to shape with a Proxxon disc sander. The final sanding to snug fit was done with sanding block
  7. Welcome to MSW. Good luck with your project and don’t hesitate to ask any questions if you need some help!
  8. Very nice! Did that ship really had a lion as figurehead or is it some sort of placeholder?
  9. Nice work Jean-Paul, looks very good. The rigging of the AVS I had the most trouble with were the stays (bob-, fore- and backstays) because their tackles are supposed to be seized and fixed. So I ended up doing all them twice because I had to readjust the tension after some time. If I had to do them again I would prepare but not finish them until bowsprit and mast were in place and then adjust to final tension.
  10. Thank you barkeater. I have sanded the bulkwards to shape at the bow. This project will be a challenge. The gunports are way off compared to the NMM plans so I will ignore the cutouts and cut new ones by hand. Have added the rabbit and drawn the keel parts with Corel Draw. Printed them on adhesive paper to cut them out of boxwood sheet later.
  11. The plywood false deck has been dry-fitted. As it is not glued yet I have to fix it in position with some clamps.
  12. The use of gunport pattern might not have been the best idea. Should have planked that area with basswood stripes instead. As the plywood gunport pattern is more than 2 cm wide and 1,2mm thick it is not very flexible and the upper edge has the tendency to warp towards the outside at the bow when bend around the first two bulkheads. So I had to fill that area with small basswood stripes to compensate. These fillers are beveled so they are 1,5 mm at the top and almost as thin as a hair at the bottom. They are glued inside the plywood to strengthen the plywood and to form a new first planking so
×
×
  • Create New...