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captain_hook

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Everything posted by captain_hook

  1. captain_hook
    Thank you for the nice comments and likes. Some more work on the topyard. The rigging is very time-consuming, today I haven‘t done half of the things I wanted to. But the ship is stuffed with different kind of tackles, jigs etc. If you‘re looking for some special kind of rigging - the AVS surely has it...
  2. captain_hook
    Thank you Jean-Paul. Lower yard is finished and test-fitted. All the remaining rigging will be done in the next 2 days.
  3. captain_hook
    Upper yard parrel is installed. Served the rope and used .08 brown rope lashing on one side. Three days break and then I will turn on the lower yard. Started this build on 12/30/2016 and hope to finish it before 12/30/2019. And BTW - I wish everyone on MSW a merry christmas. 🎄
  4. captain_hook
    Started work on the upper yard.
  5. captain_hook
    Before I will continue with rigging the yards, I took a break to make the swivel guns. The supplied ones are made of Britannia casting and I substituted them with syren 1/4 scale swivel guns. Soldered two metal stripes together to make the holding and drilled a 0.8mm into the gun to add the handle. The handle was made from 2mm brass rod. The kit-supplied gun is shown in the lower left corner. I then test-fitted two guns on the ship.
  6. captain_hook
    @Chuck: Thank you very much, but the honour belongs to your fine rope and accessoires 🤗. The footropes on the starboard side are finished too. 168 glove hitch knots per side and this is only a cutter-likely rigged vessel - can‘t imagine if I will keep my mind when it comes to building a two masted ship. Anyway that completes the standing rigging. Will turn on the yards next..
  7. captain_hook
    Before I do the starboard side I took a break from knoting glove hitch knots and made the traveller ring from .8mm brass wire. Used a .5mm drill to drill two holes into the ring and soldered two eyebolds to each side to rig the traveller inhauls.
  8. captain_hook
    Thank you for all the likes. After finishing the shrouds I started to do the ratlines. Lots of clove hitch knots. The plan calls for .021 rope for the ratlines - instead I used .012 brown syren rope. Else the ratlines would have looked way to heavy. I made a template in Corel Draw for the ratlines including the shrouds to avoid a hourglass effect. Took about 4 hours for the port side.
  9. captain_hook
    More working on the shrouds..
  10. captain_hook
    Hello everyone, I keep asking myself if I should rig a model so that the rope has high tension or or keep the ropes rather loose (but not hanging through) to avoid stressing splicings and seizings. What is the best compromise? Best regards, Andreas
  11. captain_hook
    Installed the jeers and the forestay and then hang the lower yard on the hook for a test-fit. 🤗
  12. captain_hook
    I‘m working on the shrouds, have installed the shroud clamps and the laynards but only dry fitted until later adjustment. The supplied shroud clamps are made of britannia casting and I substituted them with syren shrouds clamps - they look much more appropriate and scale. Decided to refit the backstays to a more common way so the running rigging now has a lot of space to run downwards.
  13. captain_hook
    Thank you very much for the pictures and information. Now I can go on installing them. Thanks a lot.
  14. captain_hook
    Hello everyone, I’m building an AVS and substituted the kit supplied casting shroud cleats with syren shroud cleats. The plans tell me to seize the casting ones inbound to the shrouds on both sides (as shown in the picture). But the syren cleats do have a grove in the center that the casting ones don‘t have. Are the cleats seized to the shrouds using that grove in the center or as supposed in the plan and then - what is the grove supposed to use for? Best regards, Andreas
  15. captain_hook
    Thanks for sharing that, Johann. A great model.
  16. captain_hook
    Thank you all for the comments and inspiration. I thought about it and will redo the backstays. Since it will be a dockyard model and gaff and boom will be centered I don‘t have to worry about the question about historical correctness of symmetrie. But as it is a model it should be optical pleasant as well and doing two single backstay pendants which lean on the sides of the mars instead of one seized together below gives me the possibility to have more space for running rigging. Thank you again. Now I have to continue with the shrouds first.
  17. captain_hook
    @Bob Cleek: Thank you for the detailed information. I guess it is not an easy way to balance modeling design aspects and historical approved aspects.
  18. captain_hook
    @SpyGlass: thank you very much. Today I did more work on the standing rigging and installed the spreader yard horse. The upper part is served over its entire length. The shrouds are next, I consider that the hardest part of the rigging.
  19. captain_hook
    Thank you, Everest and Dubz. I used the C. Feldman book for reference and it seems Model Expo also did because they refer more than once in their manual to the model build by Feldman. AFAIK Feldman used plans from the Smithsonian Institution and personal research as reference so I assume his rigging scheme is based at least on historical probability. In the Feldman book the backstays are also mentioned as „running backstays“ and their function maybe differ from the cutter-rig (i.e. cheerful), where backstays are more permanently fixed for mast stability. Otherwise the AVS-rig includes topmast-backstays which are missing in the cutter-rig (if I remember that correctly).
  20. captain_hook
    Thank you for the explanation. I agree that the gaff has almost no space to move. So the rigging plan of the kit is wrong in this case? I made 2 photos of the rigging plan segments showing the backstays, I‘ve done them like shown on the plan.
  21. captain_hook
    Started the standing rigging with the backstays. I‘m not sure if the gaff throat and peak halliards (I mean the part that goes down to the tackles) run inside or outside the backstays, the instructions and the plans give no hints. Any suggestions would be very helpful. Fortunately I have used hooks to attach the blocks so I can change them if necessary.
  22. captain_hook
    Thank you Bill, that is a very useful tip.
  23. captain_hook
    Hello, I‘m working on an armed Virginia sloop (1-mast cutter-like rig) and wonder if the running rigging (especially gaff throat halliard and gaff peak halliard) run inside the backstays or outside. I mean the segment that goes down to the tackles (sorry, I‘m limited to school english - we didn‘t discuss much about age of sail in german school). My intuition says yes but I have done it otherwise - it just didn‘t look right. Thank god I have used hooks to attach the blocks. Best regards, Andreas
  24. captain_hook
    Nicely done.
  25. captain_hook
    Thank you very much. I made some more progress, starting to do some running rigging on gaff and boom. As Chuck Passaro said in the cheerful build log, it is easier to do this at this stage as all areas are still accessable. Used some hooks on the gaff, a nice little detail I saw in the cheerful log. The tackles are done but the belay points are not available yet so I have to wait with the last step. Did the heel lashing too, almost forgot that. Next will be doing the standing rigging ... next weekend.

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