Keith_W

Hi Greg, I do have some fancy toothpicks which I picked up from a thrift store. It did not occur to me to stiffen them with 50/50 PVA prior to turning - thanks for that idea. My efforts at turning toothpicks thus far have been extremely disappointing. The wood does not hold a sharp edge, has too many fuzzies, and splinters too easily. I think I must have turned 10 of them before I got on which was remotely acceptable. Given that I will need about a hundred of these, I do not fancy trying to turn 1000 toothpicks to get what I need. I'll see if your idea works, otherwise i'll go with my beads. 
 
Since you asked for an update, here it is. But first, let me show off a little addition to the household: 
 

 
I love it when the postman brings me something other than bills! Particularly exciting when it is big, heavy, and comes from the USA! What's inside? 
 

 
Why, it's a BYRNES TABLE SAW!!! So shiny, i'm in love! 
 
The purchasing process went by without a hitch, except for the website going down when I tried to place the order. I rang them the next day and spoke to Donna. She was really apologetic. Order placed, money sent, saw is mine! 
 

 
The second layer planking has almost reached the keel. Why so slow? 
 

 
This is because I have cheaped out and i'm using the kit supplied second planking material for all planking below the waterline, which will be painted white. This meant splicing the kit strips with the pear strips I bought from Hobbymill. I should be able to reach the keel sometime this week. After that, lots and lots of sanding. Then I will line off the gunports and start the second planking upwards. 

Hi Greg, I do have some fancy toothpicks which I picked up from a thrift store. It did not occur to me to stiffen them with 50/50 PVA prior to turning - thanks for that idea. My efforts at turning toothpicks thus far have been extremely disappointing. The wood does not hold a sharp edge, has too many fuzzies, and splinters too easily. I think I must have turned 10 of them before I got on which was remotely acceptable. Given that I will need about a hundred of these, I do not fancy trying to turn 1000 toothpicks to get what I need. I'll see if your idea works, otherwise i'll go with my beads. 
 
Since you asked for an update, here it is. But first, let me show off a little addition to the household: 
 

 
I love it when the postman brings me something other than bills! Particularly exciting when it is big, heavy, and comes from the USA! What's inside? 
 

 
Why, it's a BYRNES TABLE SAW!!! So shiny, i'm in love! 
 
The purchasing process went by without a hitch, except for the website going down when I tried to place the order. I rang them the next day and spoke to Donna. She was really apologetic. Order placed, money sent, saw is mine! 
 

 
The second layer planking has almost reached the keel. Why so slow? 
 

 
This is because I have cheaped out and i'm using the kit supplied second planking material for all planking below the waterline, which will be painted white. This meant splicing the kit strips with the pear strips I bought from Hobbymill. I should be able to reach the keel sometime this week. After that, lots and lots of sanding. Then I will line off the gunports and start the second planking upwards. 

Hi Greg, I do have some fancy toothpicks which I picked up from a thrift store. It did not occur to me to stiffen them with 50/50 PVA prior to turning - thanks for that idea. My efforts at turning toothpicks thus far have been extremely disappointing. The wood does not hold a sharp edge, has too many fuzzies, and splinters too easily. I think I must have turned 10 of them before I got on which was remotely acceptable. Given that I will need about a hundred of these, I do not fancy trying to turn 1000 toothpicks to get what I need. I'll see if your idea works, otherwise i'll go with my beads. 
 
Since you asked for an update, here it is. But first, let me show off a little addition to the household: 
 

 
I love it when the postman brings me something other than bills! Particularly exciting when it is big, heavy, and comes from the USA! What's inside? 
 

 
Why, it's a BYRNES TABLE SAW!!! So shiny, i'm in love! 
 
The purchasing process went by without a hitch, except for the website going down when I tried to place the order. I rang them the next day and spoke to Donna. She was really apologetic. Order placed, money sent, saw is mine! 
 

 
The second layer planking has almost reached the keel. Why so slow? 
 

 
This is because I have cheaped out and i'm using the kit supplied second planking material for all planking below the waterline, which will be painted white. This meant splicing the kit strips with the pear strips I bought from Hobbymill. I should be able to reach the keel sometime this week. After that, lots and lots of sanding. Then I will line off the gunports and start the second planking upwards. 

I think I might have come up with a solution for the balustrades. As you know, the kit does not supply any. It is difficult to source balustrades which are the right scale, most aftermarket balustrades seem to be rather large and out of scale. 
 
Solution? Visit my local bead shop. 
 

 
These beads are 1mm in diameter! You can see them compared to the tip of my mechanical pencil, which uses 0.5mm lead. Thread a few of these on wire, fix with superglue, and they look OK when painted. Yes, I know it looks disturbingly like poo, or maybe meatballs on a stick, but that was the only shade of brown I had in my cabinet! 

They have beads in all shapes and sizes. I think I will go back and see if they have any square ones. 

This will surely beat trying to turn out dozens of these little bastards on my lathe. 

Hi Greg, I do have some fancy toothpicks which I picked up from a thrift store. It did not occur to me to stiffen them with 50/50 PVA prior to turning - thanks for that idea. My efforts at turning toothpicks thus far have been extremely disappointing. The wood does not hold a sharp edge, has too many fuzzies, and splinters too easily. I think I must have turned 10 of them before I got on which was remotely acceptable. Given that I will need about a hundred of these, I do not fancy trying to turn 1000 toothpicks to get what I need. I'll see if your idea works, otherwise i'll go with my beads. 
 
Since you asked for an update, here it is. But first, let me show off a little addition to the household: 
 

 
I love it when the postman brings me something other than bills! Particularly exciting when it is big, heavy, and comes from the USA! What's inside? 
 

 
Why, it's a BYRNES TABLE SAW!!! So shiny, i'm in love! 
 
The purchasing process went by without a hitch, except for the website going down when I tried to place the order. I rang them the next day and spoke to Donna. She was really apologetic. Order placed, money sent, saw is mine! 
 

 
The second layer planking has almost reached the keel. Why so slow? 
 

 
This is because I have cheaped out and i'm using the kit supplied second planking material for all planking below the waterline, which will be painted white. This meant splicing the kit strips with the pear strips I bought from Hobbymill. I should be able to reach the keel sometime this week. After that, lots and lots of sanding. Then I will line off the gunports and start the second planking upwards. 

Given that I paid for my DVD, I feel no guilt grabbing all the videos from that site. I recommend "Save From Net": 
 
http://en.savefrom.net/user.php
 
Some of you may be wondering about the legitimacy of this browser extension. Well, I did a google search for it and it appears to be clean. It also got past my virus and malware scanner on my PC. Just a note - it does not appear to work with versions of Chrome above v35. I used Firefox to grab the videos. 

I think I might have come up with a solution for the balustrades. As you know, the kit does not supply any. It is difficult to source balustrades which are the right scale, most aftermarket balustrades seem to be rather large and out of scale. 
 
Solution? Visit my local bead shop. 
 

 
These beads are 1mm in diameter! You can see them compared to the tip of my mechanical pencil, which uses 0.5mm lead. Thread a few of these on wire, fix with superglue, and they look OK when painted. Yes, I know it looks disturbingly like poo, or maybe meatballs on a stick, but that was the only shade of brown I had in my cabinet! 

They have beads in all shapes and sizes. I think I will go back and see if they have any square ones. 

This will surely beat trying to turn out dozens of these little bastards on my lathe. 

I think I might have come up with a solution for the balustrades. As you know, the kit does not supply any. It is difficult to source balustrades which are the right scale, most aftermarket balustrades seem to be rather large and out of scale. 
 
Solution? Visit my local bead shop. 
 

 
These beads are 1mm in diameter! You can see them compared to the tip of my mechanical pencil, which uses 0.5mm lead. Thread a few of these on wire, fix with superglue, and they look OK when painted. Yes, I know it looks disturbingly like poo, or maybe meatballs on a stick, but that was the only shade of brown I had in my cabinet! 

They have beads in all shapes and sizes. I think I will go back and see if they have any square ones. 

This will surely beat trying to turn out dozens of these little bastards on my lathe. 

I think I might have come up with a solution for the balustrades. As you know, the kit does not supply any. It is difficult to source balustrades which are the right scale, most aftermarket balustrades seem to be rather large and out of scale. 
 
Solution? Visit my local bead shop. 
 

 
These beads are 1mm in diameter! You can see them compared to the tip of my mechanical pencil, which uses 0.5mm lead. Thread a few of these on wire, fix with superglue, and they look OK when painted. Yes, I know it looks disturbingly like poo, or maybe meatballs on a stick, but that was the only shade of brown I had in my cabinet! 

They have beads in all shapes and sizes. I think I will go back and see if they have any square ones. 

This will surely beat trying to turn out dozens of these little bastards on my lathe. 

I think I might have come up with a solution for the balustrades. As you know, the kit does not supply any. It is difficult to source balustrades which are the right scale, most aftermarket balustrades seem to be rather large and out of scale. 
 
Solution? Visit my local bead shop. 
 

 
These beads are 1mm in diameter! You can see them compared to the tip of my mechanical pencil, which uses 0.5mm lead. Thread a few of these on wire, fix with superglue, and they look OK when painted. Yes, I know it looks disturbingly like poo, or maybe meatballs on a stick, but that was the only shade of brown I had in my cabinet! 

They have beads in all shapes and sizes. I think I will go back and see if they have any square ones. 

This will surely beat trying to turn out dozens of these little bastards on my lathe. 

I think I might have come up with a solution for the balustrades. As you know, the kit does not supply any. It is difficult to source balustrades which are the right scale, most aftermarket balustrades seem to be rather large and out of scale. 
 
Solution? Visit my local bead shop. 
 

 
These beads are 1mm in diameter! You can see them compared to the tip of my mechanical pencil, which uses 0.5mm lead. Thread a few of these on wire, fix with superglue, and they look OK when painted. Yes, I know it looks disturbingly like poo, or maybe meatballs on a stick, but that was the only shade of brown I had in my cabinet! 

They have beads in all shapes and sizes. I think I will go back and see if they have any square ones. 

This will surely beat trying to turn out dozens of these little bastards on my lathe. 

Hey Pat, I am VERY INTERESTED in that duplicator! I am thinking of turning a whole bunch of balustrades, that duplicator would certainly come in handy. Where did you get it from? 

My kit room has been tidied and prepared for the new build. It won't look as neat as this for another three years. Let's go!!! 
 

 
The room has been re-arranged with the power tool bench behind me, and the main modelling table in front of me. All I need to do is turn around to have access to power tools. The desk by the window is where I will do all the Dremelling. Not pictured is my new shelving unit where all my tools, paints, and glues are neatly stowed away. Also not pictured is the clipboard where the plans will be displayed. 
 

 
The main modelling table with the modelling lamp. You can also see my handheld vacuum which is vital for keeping the peace in the household. 
 

 
The tool bench, from (L-R): Sherline 4410 Lathe, Byrnes Disc Sander, Proxxon MF70 mill. 
 

Thanks for visiting my build log. The first few posts will be updated as I go along
 
From Wikipedia:
 

 

 
HMS Prince was rebuilt by Robert Lee at Chatham Dockyard in 1692, and renamed at the same time as HMS Royal William. During the War of the Grand Alliance the ship saw action at the Battle of Barfleur of 19 May 1692. The Prince belonged to the red squadron and carried the flag of Rear Admiral of the Red Sir Cloudesley Shovell. She was the first ship to break the French line during the battle.
 
Later she was rebuilt for a second time by John Naish at Portsmouth Dockyard from 1714, relaunching on 3 September 1719. She was laid up after her re-launch and saw no service at all until she was reduced to an 84-gun Second rate ship in 1756. One year later, she was part of an unsuccessful expedition against Rochefort led by Admiral Sir Edward Hawke. Her squadron, under Vice-Admiral Charles Knowles, attacked the Île-d'Aix and forced her garrison to surrender. In 1758 she participated in Boscawen's and Wolfe's attack on the French Fortress of Louisbourg (Nova Scotia) and an indecisive skirmish with a French squadron. The following year the Royal William returned to Canada under the command of Captain Hugh Pigot to join the attack on Quebec. After the Battle of the Plains of Abraham and the capture of Quebec she sailed back to England with the body of General Wolfe. In 1760 the Royal William was Boscawen's flagship when he took command of the fleet in Quiberon Bay. However, after a severe gale he was forced to return and shift his flag to the Namur. During the expedition against Belle Île of 1761 she was detached with several other ships to cruise off Brest and prevent a French counter-attack from there.
 
The Seven Years' War seems to be the last time that the Royal William played an active role. She was broken up in 1813.
 
 
LINKS TO RESOURCES
 
Euromodel website
- Royal William Product Page
- Interpretive Information by PiratePete
- Royal William Resource Information
 
Build logs on MSW
- Royal William by VinceP (Euromodel)
- Royal William by Brian C (Euromodel)
- Royal William by Denis Pink (Euromodel) 
- Royal William by Ersin Derebek (scratch) 
- Royal William by Kay (scratch) 
- Royal William by Marktiedens
- Royal William by ken3335
 
Other resources
- USNA model of Royal William
- Royal William by Victor Yankovitch, also alternative source.

That has to be the most beautiful windlass I have ever seen, Matt. How did you make those ratchet wheels? 

That has to be the most beautiful windlass I have ever seen, Matt. How did you make those ratchet wheels? 

That has to be the most beautiful windlass I have ever seen, Matt. How did you make those ratchet wheels? 

That has to be the most beautiful windlass I have ever seen, Matt. How did you make those ratchet wheels? 

Hi folks,
 
My next project will be the HMAS Vampire based on a 1:350 #D printed model from Bogeys Bits (via Shapeways).
 
I served a very enjoyable 2.5 years in this ship and it will be a joy building this model of her as it will rekindle many good memories.
 

 
This photo is from the official RAN website.
 
This log is being started now but no serious work will begin before mid-2016 while I research, acquire detail parts etc and get to grips with working with this material. 
 
This is my first non-wood build so I will be learning a lot as I go.  In the meantime I will have to devote some serious time to my long-suffering Endeavour (if I don’t, the Admiral will have some stern words ).
 
Introduction
Hull
Main deck
B Deck (forward lower superstructure)
X Deck (after lower superstructure)
Bridge and GDP (Gun Direction Platform)
Main Mast
Funnel
Radar Superstructure
Boats and Davits
Main Armament
Secondary Armament
 
 
Cheers
 
Pat

This Mil Mi-24 helicopter is equally impressive. It is offered for 18,000 Euros from Helicrazy: http://www.helicrazy.com/crbst_86.html
 
That's right, you can buy a BMW with that kind of money. It is powered by a jet turbine engine. For those who don't know, real helicopters are not powered by piston engines because they generate too much vibration. Instead, a jet engine blows into a turbine, which spins the crankshaft and thus the rotor via a transmission. Most nitro powered helis use 2 stroke piston engines because of the sheer cost of manufacturing a scale miniature of a jet turbine. But if you want realism, a jet turbine is the only way.
 
Need to be convinced? Watch this video:
 

Really neat work Matt, and love the treenailing.

Planking progresses; here I share a few struggles and a solution to one of them.
 

 
Here is the current status. I have had difficulty getting the hood ends to hold in the stem rabbet after soaking and during drying, and then again during gluing. Clamping as shown in the instructions does not hold. Finally I hit upon cutting out the remnant wood from around the stem, which holds the same curve as the rabbett, and clamping it exactly on the rabbet line such that the planks fit in under that extra wood and hold their place & shape. This has worked very well, but I will have to  use wood filler on the first few planks which pulled away from the stem slightly during drying.
 

 
I have also had trouble with several planks pulling away from their neighbors during gluing. My small clamps just do not hold well enough, despite the instructions saying to use the smallest clamp size. The planks just push them up. So I will have to use some wood filler here as well. Right now I assume it will end up looking like a caulked seam and be acceptable for my intended level of perfection on this first kit.
 
While I like the pre-stained planks overall, it does make it more difficult to see pencil marks, especially on the dark cherry frames. Bright light and care takes care of this.
 
Also, I finally added galleries of three previous scratchbuild attempts, my first shots at building wooden ships. These may be of interest as they are unusual prototypes of inland American river vessels.

Hi cathead, welcome to the Bounty Launch club!!! I advise you to check out the other builds on MSW for lots of handy tips and tricks. 
 
What to do with the "TRANS" ... I planked over it. I can't remember if it is low enough so that the thwarts cover it when it is turned around, I will have to go and check. 

Thanks for your reply, Greg! I am not sure what a finger bun is. I presume you mean the polycarbonate packaging that comes with some food. I did think of painting over some plastic but I will conduct some experiments when I come down to having to actually fabricate the windows. Any chance you could show a picture of your result? 
 
Sorry to hear of your Parkinsons. I presume you are on all the usual good stuff .. Sinemet, Cabergoline, etc. I don't have Parkinson's. But I think I am doing a pretty good job of making my model look as if it was built by someone with pretty severe Parkinson's. 

I have been giving a great deal of thought as to how to proceed with this build. I have now completed the first planking up to the main deck level. To my immense relief, the planks are still straight, which means that each deck installed so far is exactly parallel with respect to the others.
 
Other builders of the RW on MSW have decided to continue the first planking upwards, but I am nervous about doing this. Any planking above the main deck is unsupported by frames, and thus potentially vulnerable if the ship is turned upside down.
 
I have therefore decided to start my second planking at the waterline and work downwards and upwards. These photos show that the waterline has been drawn with a thick black marker.
 
If you look closely, you will note that I am using pear strips which I bought from Jeff at Hobbymill for the planks above the waterline, and the Euromodel supplied strips below the waterline. The reason is to save cost by saving the expensive pear strips for planking which will actually be visible. The planks below the waterline will be hidden by white paint.
 

 

 
(EDIT) I forgot to mention - the 2013 edition of "SHIPWRIGHT" magazine has a feature by Mr. Yankovitch who scratchbuilt the 1:36 scale Royal William. It is well worth reading, he talks about his technique and how he overcame various problems. I bought my copy on Kindle. Amazon link is here:
 
http://www.amazon.com/Shipwright-2013-International-Maritime-Modelmaking-ebook/dp/B00GZ8EPPM/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1416144214&sr=1-1&keywords=shipwright+2013