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Rick01

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Everything posted by Rick01

  1. Rick01
    Can anyone help with identifying the item on deck just forward of the tiller please. The cutter was an 84 ton cutter built of teak in Calcutta, commissioned in 1817 and used to explore and survey the Australian coast. The kit makes no mention of this and I haven't been able to identify it with my (very) limited knowledge. Thanks in advance. As a matter of interest the bilge pumps don't appear in this sketch and the throat halliard and topping lift both seem to be running through blocks attached to or below the lower mast cap. This appears contrary to Lennarth Petersson's book and the kit instructions. Rick
  2. Rick01
    Now starting to rig the mast and spar and further questions have come up. Footrope stirrups - no length has been given for these - I'd guess that they should be scale equivalent of around 850 mm to allow feet on the rope and waist on the spar. Can anyone confirm/comment. Additionally as I'm using King's sketches which clearly show no topsail yard how/where do I attach cluelines and sheets? Rick
  3. Rick01
    Here's a sketch by King - clearly shows the spreader bracing the top mast. I've ordered a copy of the book and expect to have to make some sort of allowance for the size difference - length 56ft beam 18ft 6 in. but I will at least get a better idea of the way the rigging works as some is not that clear on contemporary sketches. Thanks again. Rick
  4. Rick01
    Thanks guys - the sketch makes sense and of course means more work for me! The supplied mast cap doesn't have enough depth to allow for a channel so it's off to the workshop and machine another one. I would think that the ringbolt would allow the spreader to be lowered easily for repairs, replacement etc. and the other square marks should be some sort of locator pegs. Off to buy a copy of Ienneth's book now before I get any more confused. Rick
  5. Rick01
    I'm now at the point of assembling the masts, spars and booms but notice that King's illustration has a number of differences in rigging to that supplied with the instructions. Most obvious being 2 blocks between the mast caps (per King) and 4 per instructions. I can work out the basic run of the rigging fairly well from King's sketches however I'm wondering if there is a fairly straight forward book out there somewhere which will help me understand what's going on. I'm guessing that whilst the rig is basically the same on cutters there will be some variance in mounting and number of blocks used dependant on the size of the cutter. One other query - how is a topmast spreader attached to the mast cap? Again instructions are not to clear " identify ... fit and fix ... across the top of the lower mast cap" doesn't tell me a lot. Thanks Rick
  6. Rick01
    Thanks John - what I expected but needed confirmation. Rick
  7. Rick01
    Can anyone please help regards to mounting the bowsprit. The instructions indicate that the inboard end of the bowsprit sits on top of the pinrail between the knight heads, however there is no indication as to how it is secured at this point. I understand that there would be an eyeglass (?) fitting holding it at the stem post but are there additional lashings/bolts securing it at the point of the knight heads? Thanks Rick
  8. Rick01
    Thanks - I hadn't picked up on that set of photos. Rick
  9. Rick01
    Thanks - next stop my library I think. :-) Rick
  10. Rick01
    So it would be normal with a cutter built to naval specs to have this area boarded in? As you may have Guessed my knowledge of ship construction is near zero so I'm using contemporary models plus King's own illustrations of the Mermaid to build my model and the more I do the more it seems the kit instructions have deviated from what would be correct. Rick
  11. Rick01
    Next question whilst I'm working on the deck area of my model. This section of Ollie's build shows a series of "frames" as required by the plans http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/3958-hm-colonial-cutter-mermaid-by-ollie-modellers-shipyard/page-16?hl=mermaidMy problem here is that all the models I've looked at of cutters built during the same 1800 period in the UK NMM do not show these frames. Who's correct? Not from NMM but a good clear shot anyway http://www.modelships.de/Museums_and_replicas/Science_Museum_London/gIMG_0584.jpg Rick
  12. Rick01
    Thanks again - as my knowledge of ships is limited to port, starboard, bow and stern your advice has been very helpful. Rick
  13. Rick01
    Wayne - thanks for the high res. shot. It has helped answer my queries. For some reason I'd not found that particular link when looking for information. Rick
  14. Rick01
    I've already got a query going in the rigging section but now have a point to clarify re fixtures and fittings. I'm basing everything on the sketches by King rather than Modellers Shipyard plans as these appear to be lacking in accuracy in some areas. In this sketch from left to right we appear to have a forward companionway, pinrail, windlass tight up against pinrail and then possibly ship's oven. Behind the mainmast is the main cargo hatch, gangway, sky light with the ship's boat stored behind, then lastly possibly the pump. The plans however seem to have gained a "main pinrail" unless it's hard up against the mainmast in King's sketch, reversed the pump and skylight and removed the ship's oven. I understand the oven is moveable so that's not of concern however any comments on these points would be appreciated. Rick
  15. Rick01
    Thanks for the picture - better than the one I have. It has raised another couple of questions however. First the oven would appear to be exactly where the anchor windlass should be situated and second the anchor attachment would appear to be chain not rope. Any one like to comment, particularly over the windlass situation. Rick
  16. Rick01
    Not exactly something King would get wrong is it. Looks like I'll be making some VERY small hooks later in the build and I had no intention of kit bashing this early in my career. I thought it may be a stove but didn't realise they were "mobile" so looks like an Aussie BBQ isn't anything new. Rick
  17. Rick01
    This watercolour seems to show hooks on the second and third visible blocks counting from the left. Blowing it up in Photoshop makes them appear quite clearly as a hook shape below the block. Just as a matter of interest this also shows something looking like an F1 air intake reversed on top of the anchor winch! Pittwater News has the best copy see http://www.pittwateronlinenews.com/bungaree-was-flamboyant-by-neil-evers.php Rick
  18. Rick01
    I'm basically working off those for details of rigging etc. rather than the plan booklet supplied. I also noticed that the blocks controlling the upper boom/gaff? seem to attach via hooks rather than having been bound to it. In this case the eyelets that they attach to would either have been bound to the gaff or bolted through it at a guess. I wouldn't have thought the latter however as that would seem to weaken it quite considerably. Rick
  19. Rick01
    OK next rigging query (and unless it's a problem I'll keep any rigging type queries going on this thread). The mainsail attaches to the mainmast via a number of large metal rings, when the sail is removed I assume that the rings stay on the mast, so if I complete my model under bare masts I assume that to be somewhere near correct these rings should still be apparent sitting on the yoke that connects the boom to the mast (excuse the terminology if it's incorrect). I'm nowhere near this stage yet but I prefer to have an idea of what I'm doing well before I get there and find I've got to tear something down because I forgot to ask the question. Rick
  20. Rick01
    Thanks John - cleared that up nicely. Pity Modellers Shipyard didn't look at King's own sketches of his ship when putting the model together. Rick
  21. Rick01
    Thanks - knew there would be a simple answer. So displaying the finished model without sails would mean that the only evidence of this would be (and I'm guessing here) a spare block near the top of the top mast and a similar spare block at the end of the gaff.Would any rigging be run through these and if so where would they be tied off? Or can you point me to a simple (layman's) instruction manual? Rick
  22. Rick01
    I've just opened my Christmas present and am attempting to research a few items as I start my build. Obviously I've been over Ollie's build http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/3958-hm-colonial-cutter-mermaid-by-ollie-modellers-shipyard/?hl=mermaiduntil I almost can repeat it by heart. However I am still puzzled by one item and that is the yard/spar/boom whatever attached to the top mast. Ollie after discussion by pm has it attached centrally and notes that it may be a "flying" yard which I won't dispute as I have pretty well zero knowledge of ship nomenclature. However from studying King's own sketches/water colours it appears that it is loosely attached possibly via block behind the top mast and at a point 1/3rd along its length. This is born out by some models and sketches from the NMM (UK) So - how does one rig this or is it something that would only be brought out when you wanted to go really really fast!! If so where would the yard be stored on or below deck? Just as an aside I saw that Ollie was querying the cannon positions, if you look very closely at the first picture you can see what appears to be a single cannon run out at the rearmost cannon port. Rick
  23. Rick01
    Rigging completed with new thread supplied - all finished now. Rick
  24. Rick01
    Well I've just received some extra rigging from AL - however it's from a different dye lot and is noticeably different from the previous lot. So, the only solution will be to check how much they've sent me and hope that there's enough to re-rig all the stays etc. Didn't really want to do this but if it's going to look good then so be it. Meanwhile I have built a case for it so the time waiting wasn't all wasted.
  25. Rick01
    I've almost completed the rigging and other fittings now but have come to a stand-still due to a shortage of rigging. AL have supplied about 40 cm less of the heavy (dark brown) thread than is needed to complete this, however I have been in contact with them and they are sending a further supply out. The actual rigging illustrations/instructions really are pretty basic and I've had to use the box top illustration plus internet searches to get something that looks near correct. Not overly happy but it'll do for a first time! Rick

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