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Rick01

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Everything posted by Rick01

  1. Rick01
    You may want to consider blocks for the last two partitions at the stern as well. Otherwise looking good!! Got the aircon running today? Rick
  2. Rick01
    If she doesn't want to start with the longboat style then I'd recommend a cutter - single mast but plenty of detail but not overly hard to build. "Lady Nelson" "Mermaid" etc. a search for "Cutter" in titles should show a number of builds. Rick
  3. Rick01
    Both posted at the same time pretty well! I see you went for carronades but left the falconettes mounted. Rick
  4. Rick01
    I seem to recall I went the other way and shaved my deck area down to suit the transom, left the "curl" as is. You don't need a 100% fit up to the transom as the boat davits, gunwales and subsequent planking (both inboard and outboard) will cover any minor problems around the stern. As for the stem, stern, keel etc. I dumped the all the ply versions as they looked pretty bad ( can't disguise the ply) and cut my own from solid walnut. If you want to pop over (it's only about 180 km) I could show you all the modifications etc. that I made. Rick
  5. Rick01
    So - if you're going to "fiddle" then you'll need to make your own mast rings. I seem to remember that these were not included in the kit - one of the sketches I gave you will show how many you need. Rick
  6. Rick01
    Actually I've never used the brass fittings as they don't seem to fit to well.I use the wooden cradle either stained or painted. If you're going to use a "pin" between the fitting and the keel you'll need to drill the holes on th keel well before any deck fittings go on. Rick
  7. Rick01
    The "bag of parts" is the unassembled grating. :-) No there were no nuts and bolts with the brass stands. Rick
  8. Rick01
    Given that the Lady Nelson is only a "representative" cutter not modelled on a specific ship you would also be safe using the .05 strips. You would need to bulk up the bulwarks however as the capping rail assumes the full 2mm timber will be used. Rick
  9. Rick01
    If you do nothing else be aware that there is (probably - unless the mfg has fixed the instructions) a problem with the instructions when fitting the bulwarks. Here's a comment I made on another build of this model " Having just finished a build of this model I can add a comment for others - page 13 of this build mentions that there is a problem with bulwarks/ bow " I have added my cap rails and extensions.. I am a bit dissapointed my keel at bow seems to have fallen a bit short of where it should be.. Stern could be a bit higher above rails also. I dont know how that happened,". I had exactly the same problem and brought it up with the manufacturer, basically was told it was my fault even though I'd followed the instruction sheet as well as possible. So I went back to basics and rechecked all my work and still couldn't see where I'd gone wrong. Final thing was to check measurements - low and behold - there is a 2mm difference in height one end to the other for the bulwarks and although the fit appears better with the high end to the bows it should in fact have the lower end to the bows thus allowing the extra room in the bow/keel for the required drill holes. The instructions just say "identify and fit" no mention of the 2mm difference - I did point this out to the manufacturer and was told that they'd fix this in their next review. Rick
  10. Rick01
    Look at some of the other builds for this kit - it's not as accurate as it could be when compared with it's commander's sketches of it.This copy on Wikkie is a pretty good illustration https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/6e/Mermaid_ship_%281817%29.jpeg. There are some others also available out there. This may also help http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/9173-hm-mermaid-rigging-questions-edited-by-admin/ Rick
  11. Rick01
    Given that the kit is a "representative cutter" it seems to bear quite a resemblance to the cutter "Trial" at the Maritime Museum London. So if you want to tart it up a little you could check it out here http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66111.html?_ga=1.218131545.130913607.1476847166for a few tweaks. Rick
  12. Rick01
    I'm still progressing at the rate of 2~4 planks daily. That does include shaping, trial fit and finally gluing. Note the equal numbers - do one each side as this (hopefully) keeps it all fairly even as you progress down the ship. Rick
  13. Rick01
    Don't despair - I'm on to my fourth model and still can't get the planking correct. I've butchered this kit myself turning it into something resembling the real Lady Nelson and would suggest that once you start on the second planking you get a nice timber in .6 x 5 (or 4) rather than the 1 x 4 walnut supplied. I found the supplied timber quite hard to work with whereas the .6 was much easier to soak and bend in the three dimensions needed particularly round the bow and stern area. Rick
  14. Rick01
    I'm only just out of training wheels as a model builder and would suggest that you grab something like the Artisania Latina "Endeavour's Longboat" as a practice/starter kit then go on to whatever you've selected as your main model. There are a number of builds on the forum for this kit and it will give you that first taste of planking without breaking the budget. Rick
  15. Rick01
    Just noticed this log yesterday. Funny coincidence as I was on the replica Enterprize last weekend! Rick
  16. Rick01
    Yuo asked this question in your introduction and you'll find it has been very well answered there. Building your own wooden carriages isn't really hard. I'm a beginner like you and was building the carriages myself for the first armed model I built. Rick
  17. Rick01
    Check this log http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/5618-bounty-launch-by-captainsteve-finished-model-shipways-116-scale-small/page-1?hl=%20bounty%20%20jolly%20%20boat Rick
  18. Rick01
    Check this out for an experience. http://www.drakenexpeditionamerica.com/ The video makes a trip on the Endeavour replica look like a sail on a duck pond! Rick
  19. Rick01
    My first build was Endeavour's longboat. Simple kit, fairly reasonable instructions and makes up into a nice model. There are a couple of builds on here if you like to search for them. Rick
  20. Rick01
    Don't fix any sails/running rigging until you've completed the standing rigging. It's a pig trying to do it any other way! Rick
  21. Rick01
    First bulkhead compares with my kit but the second does look like a bit of fill may be called for and three also doesn't look too bad. Rick
  22. Rick01
    Looks as if you've a bit of a curve on the fill you've done. Once you've packed the bow section you need to get a nice smooth sweep from the bow on through to that second bulkhead - takes time and isn't easy but you do need it to get the final planking right. I used a flexible sanding stick to finish that area. This was made by pinching one of my wife's flexible nail buffers and double sided sticky taping fine sand paper to it - made life so much easier. Rick
  23. Rick01
    You may find planking easier if you completely fill the bow section with balsa and sand/file to shape. It gives the first layer of planks something solid to grip in that first important curve. Rick
  24. Rick01
    I'd expect it to go to the back - then the lift for the gaff would be hooked/lashed to it. Also note that there should be a similar set up on the fore mast so the cap with only two eye bolts sits above the cap with three one each mast. Search some of the cutters for an illustration of the rigging around this area. Rick
  25. Rick01
    If I remember correctly the rings remain on the masts at all times. The sail has a rope that runs down the leading edge looped through a ring then through a hole in the sail then back through the next ring and so on. At a guess the spare hole is for the tail end of the rope running down the sail to be secured through. Sorry but I've no idea what the nautical terms are for these actions. :-( Rick

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